- Thread starter
- #41
Forgot - and the bushings were all shot. It knocked and thumped over bumps. If I don't like the handling, I'll re-install it with new bushings.
Slow Mo(tion), No Mo(ney) Build
- Thread starter 1911garand
- Start date
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Forgot - and the bushings were all shot. It knocked and thumped over bumps. If I don't like the handling, I'll re-install it with new bushings.
Oh gotcha. Mine had alot of lean with the front roved but not too bad with the rear removed.
Now that I added sliders and more weight the lean is returning so I'll be getting something back on there
- Thread starter
- #43
double tap.
I did the same thing when installing my Slinkys. Without the adjustable panhard in there, it wouldn't line back up. So, I ordered the adjustable panhard and just rant it without the front sway. After running it for a while, I realized that, even without the sway bar in there, the rear was swaying more than the front. 15,000 miles later, I haven't put it back in. Really, the best thing I did for handling was install the Delta rear panhard lift bracket. I'll might throw the front sway bar on when I get aftermarket radius arms that allow for more flex. But, for now, I'm not.
Great thread and clean rig, by the way. I like seeing clean green cruisers!
Tried searching for this part number but no success. Where did you find the replacement idler?
am idiot. Literally 10 bucks on rockauto.
- Thread starter
- #46
The classic Minnesota disappearing bracket trick...just a pile of rust.
I like the extra foot room though. This was discoverd during the 7 pin mod.
I like the extra foot room though. This was discoverd during the 7 pin mod.
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Old style
, Rust 
Originally from MN, miss the beer but not the rust!
, Rust Originally from MN, miss the beer but not the rust!
- Thread starter
- #48
Here she is today. What a crazy spring.
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- Thread starter
- #49
Hit 225k this morning.
- Thread starter
- #50
A/C isn't working. My brothers shop and a yearly "special" in June where they diagnose the A/C issue for free - no requirement for repair. His tech evac / recharges and test for leaks to diag the system. If I decline the repair, they evac the refridgerant and I am good to go at no cost.
Bringing it in on Friday - hope an evac and recharge fixes it. Coupon below!
Bringing it in on Friday - hope an evac and recharge fixes it. Coupon below!
- Thread starter
- #51
Interesting. After installing my 30mm front spring spacers, I was questioning the length of the shocks.
So I sent an email to Slee in Colorado:
Hello,
1997 Toyota Land Cruiser (series 80) with the medium OME lift installed.
I have these OME components installed:
Front Coil Springs (1 pair x 2851)
Rear Coil Springs (1 pair x 2860)
Front Nitrocharger Sport Shock (2 x 60018)
Rear Nitrocharger Sport Shock (2 x 60020)
Steering Damper (1 x OMESD24)
Front sway bar removed
Recently added 30MM front spring spacer to balance ride height.
Is the 60018 front shock length OK, or should I / can I move to a longer front shock now?
If so, which nitrocharger shock should I purchase with the longer length?
Thanks!
--------------------------------------------------------------
Response from Slee:
RJ, depending on the weight on your truck it would vary the front ride height. However the shock should still be ok. Any longer shock might cause the spring to unseat.
Best Regards,
Christo Slee
Nice!
So I sent an email to Slee in Colorado:
Hello,
1997 Toyota Land Cruiser (series 80) with the medium OME lift installed.
I have these OME components installed:
Front Coil Springs (1 pair x 2851)
Rear Coil Springs (1 pair x 2860)
Front Nitrocharger Sport Shock (2 x 60018)
Rear Nitrocharger Sport Shock (2 x 60020)
Steering Damper (1 x OMESD24)
Front sway bar removed
Recently added 30MM front spring spacer to balance ride height.
Is the 60018 front shock length OK, or should I / can I move to a longer front shock now?
If so, which nitrocharger shock should I purchase with the longer length?
Thanks!
--------------------------------------------------------------
Response from Slee:
RJ, depending on the weight on your truck it would vary the front ride height. However the shock should still be ok. Any longer shock might cause the spring to unseat.
Best Regards,
Christo Slee
Nice!
- Thread starter
- #52
Got my A/C fixed yesterday. Total cost....$99.66 - nice.
I have totally removed my heater control valve.
It is HOT and HUMID here this weekend and I just got my A/C working yesterday.
The A/C blows 100% cold air. I have the HVAC put in recirc mode. I cannot tell that the heater control valve is GONE.
So, I'm confident that folks from the northland can totally remove the heater control valve (eliminating all of its problems) and run it without and issues.
I have totally removed my heater control valve.
It is HOT and HUMID here this weekend and I just got my A/C working yesterday.
The A/C blows 100% cold air. I have the HVAC put in recirc mode. I cannot tell that the heater control valve is GONE.
So, I'm confident that folks from the northland can totally remove the heater control valve (eliminating all of its problems) and run it without and issues.
How do you like your Whiteline spacers? I am about to put 30mm in all around on my LC. Doing so to accommodate the 37s that will be going on soon.
- Thread starter
- #54
No complaints. I needed to lube them to install in upper spring seats, thats it. Great price too!
Why do you have to lubricate them? Is it too tight, can't get enough droop from the front axle?
Below is a picture of what I do when I am working on suspension, use the shops' forklift (yes there are 12-ton jack stands). When I put in my 850J I was swapping shocks too so I used a floor jack to keep the axle from dropping to the ground and ripping the brake line.
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- Thread starter
- #56
I lubricated the O.D of the 30mm spacers with Remoil (gun oil) and the I.D. of the land cruiser upper spring seat. The 30mm spacers are a tight fit and needed rubber mallet tapping to get them to seat fully upward. The lube just helped that out, then evaporated.
I needed to unbolt my brake lines to allow enough droop to install the 30mm spacers. Sway bar was also disconnected as well as both brake lines. ABS wires were loose to allow the droop.
So fun!
- Thread starter
- #58
Yes, sorry, that was done too - actually the first thing disconnected. Here is a picture, because cool pictures:
- Thread starter
- #59
Like a boss.
- Thread starter
- #60
I needed to tow the 18.5' boat for an extended distance. All this talk about coolant temp and the useless factory temp gauge got me thinking. Spending $100 or 3 hrs labor to simply see my actual temp didnt seem necessary.
I found this on amazon for $35
Amazon product ASIN B07P37WY1R
So far I have 100 miles on it, love it. While pulling the boat, coolant temp never got above 196F. 65mph and hills, lots of 3rd gear.
Pros:
-easy set up and configure the screen - almost plug in and go.
-read and clear engine codes
-Has GPS for speed (no map or anything)
-adjustable speed calibration for the MPH shown. with 35" tires, this will be awesome!
-the screen looks very high qyality, Sharp, clear and easy to read. Not too bright for night driving
-Easy double stick tape install
-small!
-low cost
-one button to change setting etc...
Cons:
-Needed to relocate OBDII connector to under the dash.
-Beeps when firing up each stat sequence.
-Only works when engine is running (I think). With key on engine off, it disconnects quickly. I might be able to change this....
After I get a few more miles on it, I will do a full review.
Things in the box:
Relocate OBDII connector. Endless possibilities here, this is where I put it using an existing screw:
Looks good and shows actual coolant temp! I mounted it to steering column. Might move it, but works good for now.
The lake and boat and Dad:
I found this on amazon for $35
Amazon product ASIN B07P37WY1R
So far I have 100 miles on it, love it. While pulling the boat, coolant temp never got above 196F. 65mph and hills, lots of 3rd gear.
Pros:
-easy set up and configure the screen - almost plug in and go.
-read and clear engine codes
-Has GPS for speed (no map or anything)
-adjustable speed calibration for the MPH shown. with 35" tires, this will be awesome!
-the screen looks very high qyality, Sharp, clear and easy to read. Not too bright for night driving
-Easy double stick tape install
-small!
-low cost
-one button to change setting etc...
Cons:
-Needed to relocate OBDII connector to under the dash.
-Beeps when firing up each stat sequence.
-Only works when engine is running (I think). With key on engine off, it disconnects quickly. I might be able to change this....
After I get a few more miles on it, I will do a full review.
Things in the box:
Relocate OBDII connector. Endless possibilities here, this is where I put it using an existing screw:
Looks good and shows actual coolant temp! I mounted it to steering column. Might move it, but works good for now.
The lake and boat and Dad: