Slow window, new runs/weatherstrip (1 Viewer)

[Navyator]

Looking for advice. Left front window struggles to go down, especially in cold weather. I swapped out the window run and weather strip with new ones and cleaned/greased the window channel and regulator gear. Window works well before door card is installed, but when I put the door card on with the new weatherstrip it slows to a crawl going up (at least it goes down now though unlike before). Here are some videos.

I’ll also update this thread with anything I learn along the way doing all 4 windows. Front right is fine but needs a new run due to a break, rear passenger windows have come out of their channels and need fixed

 

[Marvelicious]

Your videos aren't working.

I've got similar issues. I initially assumed that the regulator was worn out, but on the advice of the Mud community I started taking a better look at the runs and weatherstripping. The window run on the driver's side looks brand new (previous owner's work), but I haven't replaced the weather strips yet. I noticed while checking out the window run that whatever lubricant the PO used was just attracting grit, dirt and other miscellaneous crud. I cleaned it with a rag and used some dry PTFE powder and it improved things to the point where it is functional, but slow. The lube that was on there was worse than nothing, so have a care for what you use.

Anyway, while checking that out, I noticed that the window shifts forward and back quite a bit when I engage the motor. I strongly suspect that my initial thought that the regulator is worn out was correct, because there seems to be a ton of slop in it. The rest can be in perfect shape, but if that mechanism isn't directing power in the right direction, it's not going to work well.

My plan at the moment is to order new belt molding, weatherstrips and regulator for that driver's door, take it all apart, clean and lube the run THOROUGHLY, and sort of take stock of the whole system. Then I can determine what I really need for the other windows.

Anyway, I'm not trying to take over your thread, I just figured I'd dump my thoughts out here and maybe something would be useful to you. I'll be watching this to see how it works out.

 

[Augustiron]

Replace the regulator and be done with it.

Dorman 741-796 Front Driver Side Power Window Regulator and Motor Assembly Compatible with Select Lexus / Toyota Models https://a.co/d/d7pLIto

 

[Navyator]

Your videos aren't working.

Yeah, Google decided to deactivate the account I made for Land Cruiser stuff for no reason. I was going to use that as a hub for any information I learn through working on the old girl, so hopefully they reactivate it after my appeal...

I didn't use any lubricant for the runs as I've read that leads to the same issues you talked about with them gunking up.

I think I'm going to order the @Augustiron linked regulators as I also have a bit of play rocking forward and back. Of course I'll have to go through the whole run installation process again. I'll update the thread with some pics/vids and tips after I do all four windows.

 

[Augustiron]

The dorman regulators Amazon sells have front drivers (The one I linked) and passengers regulators with new motors, with different parts numbers obviously. They have worked great every time I've installed them.

For the rears, I have only ever replaced the motors onto the existing regulators with an Amazon dorman replacement motor.
I don't know if dorman makes a regulator/motor combo for the rears. Worth researching.

 

[Marvelicious]

I was kinda thinking I would buy the first one with motor and then take a shot at rebuilding that motor for the right rear (part number for the motor matches kitty-corner). If it's just worn out brushes, it's not that big a deal.

 

[Augustiron]

Or IIRC Dorman 742-600 and 742-601

 

[NorCalFJ100]

In my experience I had a recently replaced dorman window regulator and through troubleshooting I decided to just start over with OEM. All things equal, the OEM unit is noticably faster in comparison. This was after a full refresh of everything else associated though.

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

SO! I will throw my 2 cents in since I just rehabbed my doors. The problem with the windows is less about the runs and more about the regulator as mentioned. I went about removing, cleaning and regreasing my regulators and quickly realized they weren't going to move smoothly and freely regardless of cleaning and greasing. The pivots get really tight and wear, they just get really difficult to move. New motors are a short term fix in my opinion as the original motors only failed because they were fighting a losing battle. I ended up ordering Dormans for all 4 doors. Time is money, you spend less just ordering new regulators than you do rehabbing and fighting old ones. You do want to get a rag and a really good cleaner (I like diesel) and thoroughly clean the metal track on the window and apply Toyota body grease...or if you're a cheapskate like me use Sil Glyde.

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

In my experience I had a recently replaced dorman window regulator and through troubleshooting I decided to just start over with OEM. All things equal, the OEM unit is noticably faster in comparison. This was after a full refresh of everything else associated though.

Always a good call to go Toyota. I noticed while installing the Dormans that they didn't have the clockspring like Toyota which is likely the reason the Toyotas are noticeably faster, no mechanical help for the motors on the dormans.

 

[Marvelicious]

SO! I will throw my 2 cents in since I just rehabbed my doors. The problem with the windows is less about the runs and more about the regulator as mentioned. I went about removing, cleaning and regreasing my regulators and quickly realized they weren't going to move smoothly and freely regardless of cleaning and greasing. The pivots get really tight and wear, they just get really difficult to move. New motors are a short term fix in my opinion as the original motors only failed because they were fighting a losing battle. I ended up ordering Dormans for all 4 doors. Time is money, you spend less just ordering new regulators than you do rehabbing and fighting old ones. You do want to get a rag and a really good cleaner (I like diesel) and thoroughly clean the metal track on the window and apply Toyota body grease...or if you're a cheapskate like me use Sil Glyde.

I imagine there is quite a bit of value in cleaning and lubricating, IF that's your problem: a track that slides easily will make the regulator itself last longer. That said, if the regulators are shot, no amount of magic goo will solve your problem.

Always a good call to go Toyota. I noticed while installing the Dormans that they didn't have the clockspring like Toyota which is likely the reason the Toyotas are noticeably faster, no mechanical help for the motors on the dormans.

That's interesting on the clockspring. I glanced at Rockauto and the picture they show of the Dorman includes the clockspring, though that doesn't mean anything. You've given me a good reason to try the Aisin instead. I assume they were probably the actual OEM?

Edit: just looked at amazon reviews of the Dorman... looks like they USED to include the clockspring as well. I wonder if one can swap it to the new regulator?

 

[Navyator]

Always a good call to go Toyota. I noticed while installing the Dormans that they didn't have the clockspring like Toyota which is likely the reason the Toyotas are noticeably faster, no mechanical help for the motors on the dormans.

Got the front's in today from Amazon. Looks like they've got the clockspring on them.
Also, Videos are working now, though they're underwhelming and not worth the wait to get the account back up. I was able to pull some foam off the far edges of the door card weather strip which I think reduced some of the pressure on the window. It works pretty well now, but I'm going to swap the whole system anyway though.

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

Got the front's in today from Amazon. Looks like they've got the clockspring on them.
Also, Videos are working now, though they're underwhelming and not worth the wait to get the account back up. I was able to pull some foam off the far edges of the door card weather strip which I think reduced some of the pressure on the window. It works pretty well now, but I'm going to swap the whole system anyway though.

View attachment 3568854

It was the rears that were missing the spring

 

[greentruck]

I’ve had good luck with the Dormans but you can’t go wrong with OEM if you can afford the freight.

That said the best bet is to get DRY silicone spray. It doesn’t attract gunk and grit but let’s things slide EZ.

 

[Navyator]

It was the rears that were missing the spring

Got the rears in today, no springs.

I’ve had good luck with the Dormans but you can’t go wrong with OEM if you can afford the freight.

That said the best bet is to get DRY silicone spray. It doesn’t attract gunk and grit but let’s things slide EZ.

I read a few posts online saying the same thing about dry silicone, I'll definitely look it up

 

[Marvelicious]

Got the rears in today, no springs.


I read a few posts online saying the same thing about dry silicone, I'll definitely look it up

Does it look like you could retrofit the springs from the worn out regulator?

 

[Navyator]

Does it look like you could retrofit the springs from the worn out regulator?

With a bit of work you might be able to fashion something up. From my googling, the OEM regulator has a channel in the rotating pin of the arm. See here

Here’s the Dorman. No spring, no channel. Though I bet you could tack something in if you really wanted.