Slow Mo(tion), No Mo(ney) Build

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Productive Saturday.
Removed the RS3000 security system. What a mess. Took some dash disassembly an 1hr. Easy to do, so just do it.
Removed and plugged hole for rear heater. Nice storage under the seat for first aid kit and fire extinguisher.

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Finally getting around to changing my diff fluids. Did the front today - it took exactly 3 qts.

Also topped off the birfs with moly.

Next weekend will be the center and rear.
 
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Alright, changed the rear and t-case lube today. 3 qts in the rear, 2 qts in the t case.

Question:
Front diff -
the fluid that came out of it was JET BLACK (not translucent at all). Like diesel motor oil.
T-Case - the fluid that came out of it looked brand new.
Rear diff - the fluid that came out of it looked like normal used diff oil (still translucent).

Why would the front lube be so much different / darker than the t-case and rear diff?

From what I can tell through receipts, the PO changed the fluids 25K miles ago with synthetic 80w90.
 
Alright, changed the rear and t-case lube today. 3 qts in the rear, 2 qts in the t case.

Question:
Front diff -
the fluid that came out of it was JET BLACK (not translucent at all). Like diesel motor oil.
T-Case - the fluid that came out of it looked brand new.
Rear diff - the fluid that came out of it looked like normal used diff oil (still translucent).

Why would the front lube be so much different / darker than the t-case and rear diff?

From what I can tell through receipts, the PO changed the fluids 25K miles ago with synthetic 80w90.

Does it smell different than the T-case and rear diff oil ? It’s probably got grease in it. That’s why mine’s the same way I believe.
 
How are your knuckles? On the truck, not your hands!

Bad axle seal means grease mixing with gear oil.
 
How are your knuckles? On the truck, not your hands!

Bad axle seal means grease mixing with gear oil.
Does it smell different than the T-case and rear diff oil ? It’s probably got grease in it. That’s why mine’s the same way I believe.

No smell difference, they all stunk like gear lube.

Well, that would do it. My birfs are not full of gear lube, or leaking gear lube. But I bet that is it.
 
My buddy had some left over heat tape from his EVO turbo build. Just enough to help out with the wire harness. Free-bee! Next time I am back there, i will re-route that harness on the other side of the coolant hose.

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After a winter slumber, the 80 is heading out this weekend for some fun.

Changed the oil and grilled some pork chops tonight. 228,100 miles. (5 qts 0w-40 Mobil 1 euro + 3.5 qts NAPA 15w-40 + Motorcraft FL1A Filter = Magic! )

My youngest son LOVES the Land Cruiser.
 
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Got a couple things done recently:

-Fixed rear washer squirter - replaced failed diverter valve with a 3-way fitting. Works like a dream.
-Aimed front washer nozzles. What a difference having properly aimed washer fluid is. So simple.
-Sucked out power steering reservoir and put some fresh, synthetic fluid in. I plan on doing this a few times a year to flush it out.
-Sucked out and cleaned brake fluid reservoir. New fluid is so nice. First step in an upcoming brake fluid flush.
-Eliminated some vacuum leaks with caps
-Cleaned throttle body and MAF sensor
-Cleaned PCV Valve

It's the little things....
 
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I know nothing about bike racks. Picked up a Yakima DoubleDown 4 from my folks. Fits well and is heavy / solid construction. I need the space for 4+ bikes, so this works great. It folds easily out of the way for hatch / tailgate loading.

Did I do this right?



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Doing a tune-up today. Take a look at these plugs - WAY overdue for replacement . It runs like a dream and has 0 symptoms of HG issues. Also, looks like I need to do a valve cover gasket / seals sooner than later.

I never suspected the plugs looked like this:
 
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Great day to work on the 80!

Eliminated vacuum leaks by removing disconnected emissions components, capped off all vacuum lines except the fuel pressure regulator system. There were a lot of vacuum leaks under the intake from the small hoses. Unbelievable how well it runs now - really night and day. If your are still running the original vacuum hoses on your high mileage 80 - REPLACE THEM!

Oil change - FL1A, Rotella T6, and 20w50 GTX high mileage. 9qts with the FL1A filter.

Added a oil catch can in the PVC line. Easy install, looks great. This nice small kit is actually very high quality. I added some stainless steel wool to the bottom of the container.

Amazon product ASIN B078H6C2Q5
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Lesson learned. Don't cheep out on tune up parts. Replace all at the same time: plugs, wires, cap, rotor.

Problem: Last weekend I replaced the cap, rotor, and plugs, runs great (reused the spark plug wires because I though they were fine). She died on me when pulling a trailer this week. The coil wire must have had some hours on it, the plastic retainer clip had weakened over time and could not positively lock on the cap. The coil wire walked off the cap and must have been doing big ZAPS for a mile or so. Check out the melt!

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Installed new wires, cap, and rotor this weekend. The NGK wire snap on nice and tight, Good to go for a while.

Also did a transmission drain and fill for good measure.


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What a nice MN day to change the oil and install new O2 sensors to take care of the check engine light. Like a boss - 232,300 miles.

After posting pics, I now realize my phone needs to be replaced. yuck.

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You're installing a Ford Motorcraft FL1A oil filter on your Land Cruiser. Don't you know it's sacrilege to use anything other then Toyota parts. ;)
 
Your last oil change posted showed two different brands and viscosities oil to be dumped in. What’s the reason for this?
 
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