Builds SLOW 71

[bobm]

Ron, I would go with something similar to the factory foam, maybe softer. That way it wont sound like an empty BUD can.

Thanks Bob.

The product I'm using for the sheet metal, is called Lizard Skin. It's a spray on deadener, I'll use it on the floor, both sides and firewall, doors. I need something under the stiffener and dome light, to keep them from rattling. That mat could work, alot to buy for just the little I would need.

Thanks, Ron

 

[scrapdaddy]

Thanks guys, I'll come up with something, because there's nothing worse than an empty BUD can!

 

[bobm]

Ron, thought you would get a kick out of that one. Keep em full.

Thanks Bob.

Thanks guys, I'll come up with something, because there's nothing worse than an empty BUD can!

 

[Gonzo55]

The best thing to use is body sealant , it's available at auto paint stores in a tube for your caulking gun. It seals And wouldn't expand leaving high spots on your roof. Also works great for the joints for you upper and lower fenders and gutter rails that need sealing see pic where I used it. It's about 10$ and will do the whole truck.

 

[scrapdaddy]

Thanks Gonzo,

That was going to be my next question, Seam Sealer. I need it to seal up under the fenders. I'll get some Friday.

 

[Gonzo55]

Use it on the beams too

 

[landcruisnman]

Looking Good.....Nice to see more pigs being saved!! Keep it up!

 

[scrapdaddy]

Update on the floor pan. After the Zero Rust, was applied, I sprayed two coat of Lizard Skin Sound deadner. Next day, I sprayed on two coats of the Lizard Skin Ceramic Insulation. Both products went on great. I used their gun and everything turned out as advertised. The next step is a spray on bedliner, Monstaliner.

If that turns as good, then the inside floor pan, gets the same treatment. I have to buy some more Lizard Skin, for under the headliner. It doesn't go far.

You can't tell, by the pictures, but it feels and sounds Quiet! The Ceramic stuff is supposed to reduce the temperture by 30 degrees, no hot feet

 

[PabloCruise]

Looks real nice!

 

[bobm]

NICE

Ron, looking good.

Thanks Bob.

Update on the floor pan. After the Zero Rust, was applied, I sprayed one coat of Lizard Skin Sound deadner. Next day, I sprayed on two coats of the Lizard Skin Ceramic Insulation. Both products went on great. I used their gun and everything turned out as advertised. The next step is a spray on bedliner, Monstaliner.

If that turns as good, then the inside floor pan, gets the same treatment. I have to buy some more Lizard Skin, for under the headliner. It doesn't go far.

You can't tell, by the pictures, but it feels and sounds Quiet! The Ceramic stuff is supposed to reduce the temperture by 30 degrees, no hot feet

 

[scrapdaddy]

I went to the city today and look what followed me home. Now I have way too much to do. I got the motor from BD Turnkey Engines, out of Reno, Nevada.

 

[89yotanut]

Nice looking engine! Build is looking Nice.

 

[1973Guppie]

interested to see how you will be fitting in that vortec into the piggy! I thought of doing the same previously but I am worried about the width of the engine compartment and the oil pan hitting on the axle. Do you plan to go spring over or spring under?

Noah

 

[scrapdaddy]

Noah,

It will be SUA, but I'm using OME springs, so it should have a couple inchs of lift. I haven't heard of any width problems, but the height is a problem. They do use a Camero pan, I think, for the pumpkin problem. I never read anything to make me think this, but hoping the 5.3 is alittle shorter than the 6.0. We'll see. That's down the road for now. Need to get the axles done.

Thanks, Ron

 

[NikP]

Awesome... that make at least 3 active 5.3L installs on the forum. Boy, I don't know about pumpkin clearance with SUA. When I had mine mounted to where I could close the hood, the front diff flange was even with the oil pan. While I think there's probably adequate vertical travel, my flange actually hit the pan when you tried to turn it so I'd be concerned about any lateral movement.

I saw a posting somewhere, where they took a section out of the pan to provide clearance. I'll be curious to see how it goes.

 

[scrapdaddy]

NikP,

The GM truck pan is 8.75 inches deep and the GM F-body ( Camaro ) is 5.5 inches. If I have a problem, that would be one way out, hopefully. About 250 dollars .

Is your engine a 5.3 or 6.0, wishful thinking on my part, but maybe the 5.3 is alittle shorter. I really don't want a body lift.

 

[1973Guppie]

problem is you are going to have to compensate for flex and / or upward travel as well.

looking forward to it! if you can do it right, I may just change my build plans.....

 

[scrapdaddy]

problem is you are going to have to compensate for flex and / or upward travel as well.

looking forward to it! if you can do it right, I may just change my build plans.....

Well, I hope you're not in a hurry, I'm alittle slow and I have the axles to finish first. We will work through it together

 

[1973Guppie]

nah, not in a hurry, look at the dates on my thread!

lol.

Noah

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

I have this great big roll of neoprene sheet. It's about 1/8"thick, and it is what I am going to use between all my metal panels-like the roof support channel.