Builds Skreddy’s 70 Non-Resto (1 Viewer)

[Chungas Revenge]

Phase 3: Running lines. This is probably the most challenging and my favorite part. I cut a hole in the floor to run the dual lines through, using a spare grommet I had for the firewall heater lines. I put a piece of rubber hose over the hard lines where they pass through to seal it up. I bent up the lines from tank to where they’ll meet the soft lines to frame. Flared for tube nuts/sleeves and cleaned up with scotch brite for a matte finish. These lines actually make a turn toward the frame under the body so they were a pain to get right and to snake in.

Next I ran the lines in the engine bay. Started at the sniper end with the return line: I knew I’d want it on the bottom of the stacked lines. Then, feed line, adding in a fuel pressure test port.

Last, I ran the frame lines since I now knew where I wanted both ends to land. Mounted the filter with quick connects and the soft line directly to one end for easy future filter changes. Snaked them up and over the body mount and frame, keeping clear of transfer case linkages. I used 2 rubber lined line clamps to hold them in place. Connect both ends with the vapor guard soft lines and I’ve got a fuel system!

Clean, very clean...!!! Plans for a booster later? I’m sorting this out now myself. Always looking for a good idea(s) to nick and claim as my own.

 

[joyRidaz]

Grt thread, just got caught up! So have u been happy with the procomp, bilstein, and tire combo so far? Been doing coloring lift options and having a hard time thinking about the OME pricetag…

 

[rkymtnflyfisher]

Beautiful job running those hard lines, they look great.

 

[Skreddy]

Clean, very clean...!!! Plans for a booster later? I’m sorting this out now myself. Always looking for a good idea(s) to nick and claim as my own.

Depending on pedal feel once I’m done, I don’t plan on a booster. I really don’t want to cut the firewall rib and I don’t think there’s enough room to accommodate the booster, rib, clutch master and sniper/intake.

 

[Skreddy]

Grt thread, just got caught up! So have u been happy with the procomp, bilstein, and tire combo so far? Been doing coloring lift options and having a hard time thinking about the OME pricetag…

I am really happy with the ride so far. Rides better/smoother than the stock height w/31’s 1971 I sold last fall. I’ve had FJ40’s anywhere from stock suspension to soa on 40’s and this one rides the best. We will see once I get it on some forest service roads.

 

[Skreddy]

3 leaks. Sucks. 1 is a coolant leak at the t fitting for the heater line. Other 2 leaks are fuel while running: 1 at the supply out of pump and 1 at the Schraeder valve for the fuel pressure gauge. Trying a different sealant and we will see…
Fired right up though. Didn’t run it very long at all because of the fuel leaks. They are very minor but there so I’m not risking it. That inline fitting for the schraeder valve squeals too. Hoping it’s just the leak because if not, that will drive me crazy and it’ll come off.

 

[Skreddy]

I have been using permatex 300 for years to seal fittings and always thought it was gasoline safe: data sheet says safe for aviation fuels. Well, I pulled the pump and that pressure valve and the 300 sealant is super runny where it’s mixed with the gasoline. I took apart all the fittings that had this sealant and resealed them with permatex type 1 that does say compatible with gasoline. Letting it setup and I’ll try again tomorrow.

I was able to get my throttle cable and bracket sorted out.

 

[Skreddy]

Too early to claim total victory, but getting there.
Made my adapter and pushrod for the brake master 3 bolt to 4 bolt.

Cycled the ignition, let the pump run and no fuel leaks; good sign so far. So I topped off the coolant and that same damn fitting started dripping. I was able to get 1 more full turn out of it and that seems to have done the trick, I’ll see if there’s drips tomorrow.
Ok, so leaks seem squared away, fired it up. Idle was really high: 1200-1800 and wouldn’t come down. If I pushed forward on the throttle linkage it gets down where I’d want it so clearly the return spring isn’t up to par, I’ll correct that tomorrow. Let it warm up to temp at varying idle speeds and it just kept getting smoother. Took it for a quick 1/4 mile drive and it is immediately better. Raining hard here so no more driving until it lets up.
One point I may already not be happy with: that in tank pump is loud! Like a squealy/hum. When not at idle it goes away (not just that you can’t hear it) so must have to with fuel usage/load. If it does it all the time it’s going to drive me nuts. Yes, the irony is not lost on me that a big factor for the in tank pump was they are supposed to be silent…..
More to come tomorrow if it’s not raining. Battery voltage seems high too, but I’ll hold off on addressing that at the moment.

 

[EWheeler]

Too early to claim total victory, but getting there.
Made my adapter and pushrod for the brake master 3 bolt to 4 bolt.

View attachment 2952765

Cycled the ignition, let the pump run and no fuel leaks; good sign so far. So I topped off the coolant and that same damn fitting started dripping. I was able to get 1 more full turn out of it and that seems to have done the trick, I’ll see if there’s drips tomorrow.
Ok, so leaks seem squared away, fired it up. Idle was really high: 1200-1800 and wouldn’t come down. If I pushed forward on the throttle linkage it gets down where I’d want it so clearly the return spring isn’t up to par, I’ll correct that tomorrow. Let it warm up to temp at varying idle speeds and it just kept getting smoother. Took it for a quick 1/4 mile drive and it is immediately better. Raining hard here so no more driving until it lets up.
One point I may already not be happy with: that in tank pump is loud! Like a squealy/hum. When not at idle it goes away (not just that you can’t hear it) so must have to with fuel usage/load. If it does it all the time it’s going to drive me nuts. Yes, the irony is not lost on me that a big factor for the in tank pump was they are supposed to be silent…..
More to come tomorrow if it’s not raining. Battery voltage seems high too, but I’ll hold off on addressing that at the moment.
View attachment 2952783

May be worth trying to use that stick on sound deadening on the outside of the fuel tank to add some mass to the walls so it doesnt sound so “tinny”.

 

[Skreddy]

May be worth trying to use that stick on sound deadening on the outside of the fuel tank to add some mass to the walls so it doesnt sound so “tinny”.

That is on the list of possibilities. I actually have some. May quiet down once the passenger seat is installed. I also am wondering if it has to do with the high battery voltage. While it was idling, when it would drop to 14 or less the noise was non-existent. Higher voltage seemed to correlate to higher noise. We will see. Minimum 70% chance of rain now through Saturday.

 

[Skreddy]

Finally a drive! And minor issues. @EWheeler was onto something with the squeal in the tank being resonance, but it’s actually the fuel pressure port fitting I plumbed right before the sniper that is squealing and just resonating all the way through the lines to the tank! I need to figure that out because it is super annoying. Also have an exhaust leak at the manifold where the number 1 port meets the head. I have never had a remflex gasket leak but this one is after about 600 miles. Looks like it split right where the bolt hole in the gasket is (no stud or hole there on F engine).
So the drive. About 10 miles so far, that’s all the rain let up for. The sniper is learning and seems good everywhere, but taking off from a stop is giving me some popping out the intake until speed picks up a little. It’s still showing LEARN during this so maybe it’ll tune itself out. But, I figure there’s no point continuing the learning with the exhaust leak. Looks like rain solid for a week which is coincidentally when the new gasket will be here so I’ll work on a few other things until then.

 

[Skreddy]

Almost forgot; was also overcharging up to 16 volts! Likely been doing this the whole time I’ve had it but never had a volt gauge. I searched and found an old thread on tweaking the VR contact arms and I tried it and now it’s great! I get a peak of 14.4v and normal driving and idling is between 12.4-13.8. Big thanks @bj40green for the how a VR works thread!

 

[Chungas Revenge]

Almost forgot; was also overcharging up to 16 volts! Likely been doing this the whole time I’ve had it but never had a volt gauge. I searched and found an old thread on tweaking the VR contact arms and I tried it and now it’s great! I get a peak of 14.4v and normal driving and idling is between 12.4-13.8. Big thanks @bj40green for the how a VR works thread!

That is the “thing” about the VR’s, a tweak here and there and you can dial it in...Thought about an internally regulated Alt. I have at least four VR‘s in the cache. So I figure that should be good through some bright eyed kid inheriting the mule one of these days....

 

[Honger]

Phase 3: Running lines. This is probably the most challenging and my favorite part. I cut a hole in the floor to run the dual lines through, using a spare grommet I had for the firewall heater lines. I put a piece of rubber hose over the hard lines where they pass through to seal it up. I bent up the lines from tank to where they’ll meet the soft lines to frame. Flared for tube nuts/sleeves and cleaned up with scotch brite for a matte finish. These lines actually make a turn toward the frame under the body so they were a pain to get right and to snake in.
View attachment 2951036View attachment 2951037
View attachment 2951041

Next I ran the lines in the engine bay. Started at the sniper end with the return line: I knew I’d want it on the bottom of the stacked lines. Then, feed line, adding in a fuel pressure test port.
View attachment 2951042View attachment 2951043

Last, I ran the frame lines since I now knew where I wanted both ends to land. Mounted the filter with quick connects and the soft line directly to one end for easy future filter changes. Snaked them up and over the body mount and frame, keeping clear of transfer case linkages. I used 2 rubber lined line clamps to hold them in place. Connect both ends with the vapor guard soft lines and I’ve got a fuel system!
View attachment 2951045View attachment 2951046View attachment 2951047

Where'd you get those slick fittings that keep the fuel lines roughly parallel to each other?

 

[Skreddy]

A few places have them, I got these from Racetronics. They make lots of sizes. @Honger

 

[1970 Problems]

Just now came across this thread. Absolutly amazing. I live in Parker Co. and one day in i saw this exact fj40 on a trailer in the safeway parking lot. Talked to Ben, the previous owner before you and he had told me the story of what happened and how he got it. I also have a 70 fj40 so we talked for a while.

Anyways, here are some pics I took of it in March of 2021 exactly a year ago...

 

[Skreddy]

That’s awesome, thanks for sharing!

Wonder how close the story you got vs what I got are….

 

[Skreddy]

Made some progress on the air cleaner adapter yesterday. I used a 1” standard aluminum air cleaner spacer, cut a circle to weld into the top, marked where the stock air cleaner lines up best over the barrels and cut a hole. Still need to weld in the top stub that the air cleaner clamps to, but shaping up. Once finished, it will get sprayed in Harley-Davidson texture black (same as their engine cases). It is a really close match to the finish on the black sniper so the hope is it will look less like an adapter and more seamless.

 

[Skreddy]

I am sooooper impatient. Got off work and had a little time to kill while the kids and wife were occupied riding bikes. Welded up the top spigot for the air cleaner mount and added a hold down tab. Sanded it up and painted. Paint is still wet in the pic (did I mention I’m impatient) so it should flatten out in sheen a little more. Happy how it turned out.

Also pulled the schraeder valve from my fuel feed line and plugged it. I will leave it like this if the squeal is gone so I still have the option to put the valve in to check pressure. If it still squeals, I’ll remake that line with no fitting provision.

 

[Skreddy]

The new gasket/seal for air cleaner to carb top (adapter in this case) came in so I was able to clamp down the air cleaner lid.

Finished up another install item: fuel tank vent. I installed a rollover vent into the tank with the pump but needed to plumb the other end somewhere. It needed to be higher than the tank/inlet and vent to outside. Not super pleased but it will do. I used an axle vent I had and removed the rubber stopper from the inside, then mounted it in the filler neck pocket right above the cap. Not too intrusive but still not thrilled about where it is. But it’s there now!

I also fired it up for a minute. The squeal appears to be gone! Must’ve been that schraeder valve. I don’t care what it was as long as it’s quiet! Rain shows to be gone tomorrow so hoping for a long tuning drive.