Skreddy Builds a Shop (1 Viewer)

[knuckle47]

@Skreddy you do work quickly… my pole barn was built by 4 Amish guys from Lancaster PA about 2+ hours from me ..YET.. they arrived daily before 7:15am and rarely stopped for a break. By 4:30 they left…9 work days later….done! Including 1200sq ft of 7” to 8” thick concrete and a 12’ apron in front by the main doors. I did the electrical and interior walls but it was over a week to run wire alone. I have all 4 gang 20A outlet boxes every 8 feet…it ain’t enough. I used the RapidAir MaxLine 3/4” air lines wrapped along 3 perimeter sides and drops also every 8 feet. The 120 gallon vertical compressor I have had for over 35 years is mounted on a pad outside under the roof overhang. Nice and quiet and the electrics are all inside so it’s easy to flip the compressor on and use when needed. The air drops were a touch overkill but I don’t need those 50’ or 100’ air hoses anywhere.

You are doing a great job from what shows in the photos…. Best of luck with it. Since you are familiar with the Rustoleum epoxy I think you will notice a nice improvement with the other product

 

[PAToyota]

There are combinations of resins and metallics that look like swirls of cobalt blue and copper which are remarkably nice to admire but maybe not to live with daily.

I had a restaurant project where we spec'd a pearl epoxy floor, but it got "value engineered" out and they went with just a sealer. A few years later they shut the whole restaurant down for two weeks to grind the floor and epoxy it because the concrete was dusting. Between the cost of the work and the lost revenue - not to mention all the cleaning up that needed to be done (dust everywhere!) - it cost them multiple times what they "saved" by not doing it in the first place. And they went with a typical flake instead of the pearl.

It's really hard to get good photos of the pearl effect, but it is pretty spectacular. Like has been mentioned about the flakes, you really need to find someone who knows what they're doing to avoid just getting weird patterns to it. Done right, it can look like exotic wood or stone or flowing water. It comes in a bunch of colors across the spectrum.

And this is a bit much, but gives you an idea of the colors available.

And when it isn't done right...

 

[knuckle47]

Those are amazing…. Is it slippery? Looks like polished stone… spectacular work

 

[BadReligion]

I had a restaurant project where we spec'd a pearl epoxy floor, but it got "value engineered" out and they went with just a sealer. A few years later they shut the whole restaurant down for two weeks to grind the floor and epoxy it because the concrete was dusting. Between the cost of the work and the lost revenue - not to mention all the cleaning up that needed to be done (dust everywhere!) - it cost them multiple times what they "saved" by not doing it in the first place. And they went with a typical flake instead of the pearl.

It's really hard to get good photos of the pearl effect, but it is pretty spectacular. Like has been mentioned about the flakes, you really need to find someone who knows what they're doing to avoid just getting weird patterns to it. Done right, it can look like exotic wood or stone or flowing water. It comes in a bunch of colors across the spectrum.

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And this is a bit much, but gives you an idea of the colors available.

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And when it isn't done right...

View attachment 3748658

Incredible. What's the rough cost per SF? Is the epoxy fairly UV stable?

I too have a Rustoleum DIY epoxy in my current garage that is 12 years old and has help up well. Only issue is yellowing due to UV. Some chips and burns from dropping stuff and molten chunks of metal so that's to be expected.

Supposedly the new polyurea coatings are more durable and UV resistant. I'm back and forth on what to do with my shop when finished.

@Skreddy impressive work so far, especially considering you are more or less doing this on your own. Looks like you have done this before.

 

[Skreddy]

Incredible. What's the rough cost per SF? Is the epoxy fairly UV stable?

I too have a Rustoleum DIY epoxy in my current garage that is 12 years old and has help up well. Only issue is yellowing due to UV. Some chips and burns from dropping stuff and molten chunks of metal so that's to be expected.

Supposedly the new polyurea coatings are more durable and UV resistant. I'm back and forth on what to do with my shop when finished.

@Skreddy impressive work so far, especially considering you are more or less doing this on your own. Looks like you have done this before.

Thanks. I built an open pole barn for my mom’s horses when I was like 18, otherwise, this is my first rodeo. General construction knowledge and lots of research and reading, learning from others mistakes where I can.

 

[knuckle47]

@Skreddy …he is right @BadReligion … I was looking at my pole barn photos when the Amish guys were here and yours looks no different..
Great work going on there!

 

[PAToyota]

Incredible. What's the rough cost per SF? Is the epoxy fairly UV stable?

I too have a Rustoleum DIY epoxy in my current garage that is 12 years old and has help up well. Only issue is yellowing due to UV. Some chips and burns from dropping stuff and molten chunks of metal so that's to be expected.

Supposedly the new polyurea coatings are more durable and UV resistant. I'm back and forth on what to do with my shop when finished.

It's about $10~$12 s.f. It typically has UV inhibitors in it, but there is yellowing if it is in direct sunlight as you say - as well as melting and burning from hot items. I've seen that at overhead doors that get left open a considerable amount.

There are a number of products available including acrylics, urethanes, methyl methacrylate, and likely other systems. Best to talk to a supplier about your specific needs and get their recommendations.

This is the product line I typically go to: Flooring Products | Dur-A-Flex - https://www.dur-a-flex.com/products/

 

[Skreddy]

All the girts are up. Waiting for final gravel grade and compact tomorrow then I can set the door headers. Planning on roof metal tomorrow unless it rains; if it does I’ll have to work on a house project to appease my wife. If all goes to plan, exterior should be done by end of next week and ready to start on wiring and inside.

 

[Skreddy]

Gravel in yesterday, moisture barrier and got the insulation down today. Kids liked helping because the 4x8 2” sheets are light enough they could move them.
Got 1 loop of the pex for floor heat down then it got dark. That stuff is stiff! Missing the upper 70’s we had last week now. I’ll need to use a heat gun to help it relax a little. Zip tying it to wire mesh and also using foam board staples in some spots to wants to rise. No pics of the pex because it got dark.

Roof metal tomorrow.

 

[Skreddy]

I got all the roof panels, the ridge vent/cap and the gable rake trim up today. Have to go back through tomorrow and finish the screws in all the field. Only got in 1/3 or so of the screws on each panel while I had my helper; he had to leave in time to watch the Oregon Ducks game.

 

[cruzinfj1]

Looking great!!!! You're gonna love the floor heat! Best thing I did to mine, would never go back to forced air or a wood burner ever again!!!
Just outta curiosity, why did you lay the pex that way vs long ways? The guy who did mine went length wise, and after getting jacked around, he ended up getting fired... long story. lol

 

[Skreddy]

Looking great!!!! You're gonna love the floor heat! Best thing I did to mine, would never go back to forced air or a wood burner ever again!!!
Just outta curiosity, why did you lay the pex that way vs long ways? The guy who did mine went length wise, and after getting jacked around, he ended up getting fired... long story. lol

I have 5 loops to do so each loop gets laid inside another one so they don’t cross each other. The loops also all need to be as close to the same length as possible so I drew a few versions out on graph paper and this was the best way I came up with.

 

[Skreddy]

After about 6 hours and what felt like 10,000 screws; the roof is completely done.

Was also able to get all the pex for the floor in today (pic was before last roll was done). Have to go back and zip tie more and do rebar tomorrow then pressurize the system and ready for mud!

 

[cruzinfj1]

Im sure you already know, but pressurize it, and leave the gauge on it so you can watch it as you pour. I poured mine, and there was NOTHING more nerve racking than a buggy running on boards till we could spout, and the guys pulling mud..... I paid them a little bit more an hour to pay extra attention, and WATCH FOR BUBBLES!!! Girlfriend fired up the grille and we drank heavily that afternoon when it was all good!!!! lol

 

[Skreddy]

Floor tubing held 50 psi overnight and has been sitting at 25 psi for a couple days now. It’ll stay there while they pour.

Yesterday I framed my windows and finished rebar on the floor.

Today was the biggest visual change I feel like since posts/trusses. Got the wrap on, a couple windows in and some lower metal siding. I’ll finish the last window tomorrow and hopefully get all the lower siding on and start the upper walls. Waiting to do the front wall until after I get the floor poured Monday so there’s no chance of accidentally bumping the siding.

 

[knuckle47]

Working solo…you are a machine !

I think radiant heat is going to make you want to live inside. I know so little about the mechanics of it but I had an experience with it in 2002.. my father in law was in a dementia wing of a nursing home in northern Vermont. The temps were a consistent -20* daytime and -30*F at night. The warmth in that wing was like nothing I’ve felt before. The nurses did tell me when you get an off day and the temp swing rises above 60, it takes a day for the slab to cool without it being too warm

Almost bought a house 20 years ago with radiant heat. At the time the manifold looked more complex the a NYC subway map

 

[Skreddy]

Had some visitors this morning. 3 of them hanging out for about an hour.

 

[cruzinfj1]

Hey, one other thing I just thought of that I wish I would have done, is put in an anchor/d-ring in the floor that you can pull from if you have a dead vehicle. Would have come in really handy for me a couple of times now.

 

[Waorani]

An anchor is easy enough once cured but given radiant tubing might be something to consider during pour. Anchor pots are another option and would seem easier during pour but not sure. Worth asking your concrete guy.

 

[Skreddy]

I thought of something like that but figured I could pull from the 2 post lift but it’s a slight downhill in anyhow. My last house, I had a small winch bolted to one of the posts on the back wall. I mostly used it off a pulley on the ceiling to lift the top off the 40 but I used it a time or two to coax a heavy rig in the door.