Builds Skreddy Bought an 87 FJ60

[Skreddy]

Time to start putting some miles on! Was getting a lot of spark knock but I think it’s related to the ported vacuum from the carb to the distributor. Disconnected that and pinging gone. Speedo is about 10% off. 70 on the freeway is pretty comfortable. I read all these threads about slow, noisy, uncomfortable 60’s but this one cruises with traffic easily, drives smooth and straight and is at least as quiet as my 4Runner. Seats are comfy too!

Took my wife and 3 year old for a drive to get lunch. 50 miles so far today and still have to get back home

 

[Skreddy]

This post is mostly for me, for future reference to why was I thinking this?!, but I’m open to feedback if anyone is reading this.

I have pretty much decided I’m keeping this 60 and selling my 4Runner (don’t need both). The 60 has 260k miles and though the cylinders looked good and good compression now, it’s pretty grungy and oily so I knew I’d pull the engine to clean and reseal. May as well replace bearings while I’m in there and do a home hone and ring job. If I’m taking the head off to get at pistons and rings, I’m starting to think doing the 3FE head may be worth it after all. Cruiser runs pretty well as is, but I’ve got basically everything but the ecu and fuel pump I think for the swap. Needs exhaust anyway so adapting to the 3FE manifolds isn’t any extra work. It’d be cheaper than the sniper route, if I ever went that way. Plus a 2FE is cool so there’s that….
The other thing I’m contemplating is an H55…. 70 mph today and a solid 3000 rpm’s. This will get a lift and 33’s so rpm’s will drop a little, but that 5th gear seems like a good improvement (and a lower 1st gear to get them moving). The 4 speed (and split case) will both get a rebuild when pulled, so factor the cost of parts and my time for rebuilding the 4 speed and it makes the H55 even cheaper….

Anyhow, thinking out loud at the moment but trying to prepare myself for which direction I go.

 

[3_puppies]

I didn't think it is worthwhile to rebuild the H42, for the cost to do it and the special puller needed.
and the H55 is an easy swap into the later 60 series

 

[suzuguru]

Everything you say makes perfect sense. Especially if you're selling the 4-runner, and will be doing a lot of driving in the 60. Rather than putting money toward a rebuild of the 4-speed, I like the idea of swapping in an H55. Best of luck on all of this. The more I keep looking at 60 series threads, the more I want one. But, I'm thinking about getting one from Europe with a 12HT Diesel in it. I don't know... we'll see. I'm currently on the hunt for a Euro 80 series with a 1HD-FT, and I don't want to detract from that at the moment.

 

[NookShneer]

This post is mostly for me, for future reference to why was I thinking this?!, but I’m open to feedback if anyone is reading this.

I have pretty much decided I’m keeping this 60 and selling my 4Runner (don’t need both). The 60 has 260k miles and though the cylinders looked good and good compression now, it’s pretty grungy and oily so I knew I’d pull the engine to clean and reseal. May as well replace bearings while I’m in there and do a home hone and ring job. If I’m taking the head off to get at pistons and rings, I’m starting to think doing the 3FE head may be worth it after all. Cruiser runs pretty well as is, but I’ve got basically everything but the ecu and fuel pump I think for the swap. Needs exhaust anyway so adapting to the 3FE manifolds isn’t any extra work. It’d be cheaper than the sniper route, if I ever went that way. Plus a 2FE is cool so there’s that….
The other thing I’m contemplating is an H55…. 70 mph today and a solid 3000 rpm’s. This will get a lift and 33’s so rpm’s will drop a little, but that 5th gear seems like a good improvement (and a lower 1st gear to get them moving). The 4 speed (and split case) will both get a rebuild when pulled, so factor the cost of parts and my time for rebuilding the 4 speed and it makes the H55 even cheaper….

Anyhow, thinking out loud at the moment but trying to prepare myself for which direction I go.

If you are taking it off road or driving long highway miles. Those 1st and 5th gears really shine. Especially with 33’s or larger and stock TCase/diff gears.

If you are using this as a daily driver and traffic/around town. 4speed and 31’s is a great combo.

I like the idea of a 2FE.

 

[Skreddy]

And so it begins. Doing front brakes, may as well do the knuckles. Got 4Runner calipers and master cylinder and going to run no backing plates. All new extended rubber lines for when I do the lift.
Inner axle seals were definitely failed. Upper reunion bearings rusted and notchy. Definitely needed done.

 

[Skreddy]

Upper trunion bearing.

I finished the knuckles and brakes yesterday but can’t drive it yet. Drained the rear diff and fluid looks brand new. Drained the transfer case…. Wait, it was already drained…. Got about 1/2 pint of fluid out of t-case. Usually I check all these fluids right off the bay but neglected that in my excitement on this one. Planned a t-case rebuild regardless so not too worried. I’ll top it off for a few hundred miles of test driving. (Maybe the oil is all hiding in the trans…. Haven’t drained it yet.)

 

[suzuguru]

looks like that upper king pin bearing was right at the point where it would start excessive wear. Good catch.

 

[Skreddy]

Just made new lines for the master cylinder to proportioning/distribution block because I didn’t like the generic length, hand bent ones that were in there.

I’m conflicted here and we will see how it stops. I’ve always been told the port that pushes fluid first goes to the front (front brakes stop first). So on this 4Runner master that’s the rear port. The master that was on it was labeled R at the rear and F at the front so front port to front brakes, etc. but I chocked that one up in the vice and same thing: the rear port moves fluid first and about double the volume of fluid as the front port. That tells me (in my thinking) that the rear port should go to the front brakes. I guess I’ll see how it stops. With it on jackstands in gear and apply the brakes at idle and the fronts start stopping first. I have the same master on my 40 with manual brakes (disc/drum) and I have the rear port to front because the rear pushes fluid first and a higher volume.

 

[red66toy]

That line shaping is on point!

 

[Skreddy]

That line shaping is on point!

I get great pleasure out of good tube bending.

 

[White Stripe]

The longer 3fe intake runners should help build a little more torque. A very basic port job could help make a bit more also.

 

[Skreddy]

The longer 3fe intake runners should help build a little more torque. A very basic port job could help make a bit more also.

I have started on the gathering of parts I’m missing for the 2FE. Still undecided but it’s inching closer to a reality.

 

[Skreddy]

Stops great!

T-case is leaking bad out of every seam but it will get rebuilt soon.

Started on my carpet today.

 

[Skreddy]

When I bought this 60, the windows were stuck in place: so much that I broke one of the window cranks trying to roll down a window. The rubber track the window slides up and down in had gotten super hard and expanded and was just sandwiching them in place, all 4 windows.
I read some threads and by chance saw where people have had success using a universal product that is flocked for smooth operation so I gave it a try. Windows work fantastic now! Got new out window felts (rubbers). Was a little disappointed because the clips on them won’t work with the chrome trim that goes along the door at the bottom of the window. Most of the original clips were broken or missing. Guess it’s getting de-chromed.

 

[Skreddy]

My wife said she would clean the door panels. Who am I to argue?!
Preview.

 

[Skreddy]

after a few days off, back to working on the 60. Need to finish the new carpet install but when doing wiring, I found 1 spot of rust and it’s in the driver floor. Here we go….

Second pic above was how much I needed to remove to get to good metal. There’s still some surface scale but it will get wire brushed and treated, then some paint before carpet.
Here is where I ended up. I was in a semi rush so didn’t form the edges of the ribs and just hammered them in. On a 40 I would’ve but no one will know under the carpet, except for anyone that reads this and looks under it…. Little grinding and boom, done.

 

[NookShneer]

after a few days off, back to working on the 60. Need to finish the new carpet install but when doing wiring, I found 1 spot of rust and it’s in the driver floor. Here we go….View attachment 3297757View attachment 3297758

Second pic above was how much I needed to remove to get to good metal. There’s still some surface scale but it will get wire brushed and treated, then some paint before carpet.
Here is where I ended up. I was in a semi rush so didn’t form the edges of the ribs and just hammered them in. On a 40 I would’ve but no one will know under the carpet, except for anyone that reads this and looks under it…. Little grinding and boom, done.
View attachment 3297759View attachment 3297760

Killing it!

 

[Skreddy]

I’ve found a ton of nasty change and cigarette butts under the console and seats (my kids want the change but, uh, no). Figured I ought to clean out the under seat rear heater. The squirrel cage had literally about 25-30 cigarette butts sucked into it and the heater core had the typical coating of nasty. Maybe the rear heater will operate a little quieter now.

Best part: Camel Cash!

 

[Skreddy]

When I got the carpet from @dnp I got an extra yard of material thinking I’d redo the door panels, though I wasn’t exactly sure how. My rear panels were cut out for speakers and I guess I could’ve covered the holes but liked the ideas of speakers there. I got some 1/8” tempered hardboard and pulled the old carpet off the panel and traced the carpet. Decided where in the panel the speaker would best fit without interfering with ash tray (ya, my 3 and 6 year olds need those…) or with the window when it’s rolled down. Then glue the carpet to the hardboard. It slips into the vinyl on the door panel then I stapled the original door card to the hardboard. I’ll hot glue or something to attach the vinyl to the carpet since I won’t be able to sew it.