Builds Skreddy Bought an 87 FJ60 (1 Viewer)

[red66toy]

*Cough*…..turbo….*cough*

Yes!

 

[REZARF]

Cough Cough... Holley Sniper

 

[Skreddy]

I did put on a power adder last night when we had to run into town. I’m using a carb spacer from a 40 series and the vacuum nipple on it is right against the throttle shaft for the AC kickup. Well, the vacuum cap I had on there split and was just an open vac leak. Got a new cap at the combo grocery store/ace hardware that was open at 10 and it seemed to have a lot more power!

 

[Skreddy]

Been doing lots of driving and not a lot of posting. But the power steering pump leaks all its juice out about every 50 miles. I got a “new” pump from an online store. We will see how it holds up. New return hoses since the old ones were pretty stiff and cracking. Also replaced the smog pump with an idler setup from TLC Performance while I was in there.

 

[Skreddy]

I took the 60 on a work trip to go to a couple dams today. Longest trip yet at 260 miles round trip, no stops the way there. Besides the passenger side wiper deciding to stop working (was just the arm nut came loose), was uneventful. One positive, I’ve been getting about 13 mpg with mixed driving. Today was mostly in 5th gear doing 65+ and I averaged right at 16 mpg!

 

[70fj40]

I really like the stance and looks of that 60. It just has style.

 

[Skreddy]

I really like the stance and looks of that 60. It just has style.

If you thought it had style before…..


I added some dirt cheap “saddle blanket” seat covers because the seats are super hot when it sits in the parking lot at 95 degrees. Not as bright in person. They’ve done the trick.

And thanks, I’m happy with how’s it’s turned out.

 

[Skreddy]

Today was a pretty cool day for the 60, literally. I got the AC working again.
When I got this cruiser, the AC belt was missing and there was no pressure in the system. I knew I’d need to convert to R134 so I’ve been gathering all new belts, drier, compressor, switch and valve. Also a good excuse to buy a vacuum pump and gauge kit. I kept the condenser and evaporator and all the lines but gave them a good flushing. New o-rings and it’s all back together and blowing cold. Wasn’t without some issues though. The can tap I got with my gauges didn’t work with the self sealing cans. The compressor would not kick on and I finally reread a couple threads and figured out my rpm was too low: this one wouldn’t kick on until about 2000 rpm. I turned that setting down to around 1200. When I got the right can tap, I also forgot to open the high pressure valve for about 10-15 seconds so the gauge would read and was wondering why it wasn’t increasing.
I got a ton of help just by reading older threads so even though you didn’t realize you were helping, in no particular order, big thanks to @Aloha Jen @LAMBCRUSHER @red66toy @4Cruisers @1972FJ55

 

[Skreddy]

I’ve suspected my secondary on the Amazon carb hasn’t been opening so started testing yesterday. Did the paper clip test and no change. When I pulled the diaphragm off it will hold vacuum and actuate the rod but pretty clear looking at the mounting face it never sees vacuum. The hole for vac to the diaphragm is drilled too low and getting sealed by the o-ring. (Can see the outline of o-ring in first pic) I hogged out the holes and removed the dowel pin so the whole piece can sit higher on the carb, aligning the vacuum ports. Did the paper clip test again and I have movement, though I can’t honestly say I really felt much, if any difference.

 

[Skreddy]

Was putting in the new oem fuel filter today. There was an aftermarket canister Racor filter setup screwed to the firewall. Interestingly, none of the fittings were tight, none on the hose clamps were tight and the return line from frame was hooked to the feed line on pump and running through the filter setup. Haven’t driven it to see if there’s any change.

View attachment 3264293View attachment 3264294

Wow. I thought I had put in a new filter but wasn’t sure. Just looking through my thread and I did. Just did another new filter because the one from march looked pretty bad. Idle was starting to get rough at times and the new filter seems to have cured that.

Ya, that’s a 6 month old filter…..

 

[AussieHJCruza]

Yes!

30,000 km of boost on a 3FE here and she's been good, very torquey.

Solid work @Skreddy you thinking OEM ECU for the 2FE or aftermarket?

 

[Skreddy]

30,000 km of boost on a 3FE here and she's been good, very torquey.

Solid work @Skreddy you thinking OEM ECU for the 2FE or aftermarket?

Yes, oem. I wasn’t even aware there were other options.

 

[Skreddy]

I’ve been having issues with getting hot in stop and go traffic or when running the AC so time for a fix. My stock radiator has a few pinhole leaks (free to anyone that wants it) so I picked up a Mishimoto aluminum radiator that @OGBeno had; thanks again! New radiator, changed out water pump, as many of the heater hoses as I could and a new fan clutch since the one in there just free spins no matter the temps. Short drive yesterday up to operating temp and saw temps get about 2/3 - 1/2 on the gauge. Just added another almost half gallon so I’ll drive again and see.

 

[Skreddy]

Next up: the best deal toyota offers. $30 to my local dealer.

 

[AussieHJCruza]

Yes, oem. I wasn’t even aware there were other options.

We only got the 3FE in an FJ80 for 2 years so pretty slim pickings, hence an aftermarket ECU was easier and lent itself to other mods down the track.

 

[Skreddy]

Been wrapping up little things to get everything working. Unplugging and replugging the rear defrost seemed to fix that. Took the washer fluid pump out, opened it up and got the gears moving and now those squirt.
Today is fix the horn and dome light. Horn contact was worn really far down. Local dealer had one on the shelf. Cleaned up the contact ring and now more horn works reliably instead of sometimes, but only if the wheel is turned to a specific spot….

 

[Skreddy]

For the dome light, there was corrosion between all or some of the contact pieces and some of the rivets were loose. Drilled out all the rivets, cleaned the contacts and refastened with M2 screws and washers/nuts. Now I have a consistently working dome light!

 

[3_puppies]

I use a pencil eraser to clean the the "varnish" off the ring, it makes it all nice and shiny and clean for good contact with the brush/contact