Build Skreddy Bought an 87 FJ60

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The last couple days I built a winch cradle to mount a winch in the stock bumper. It pushes the bumper out about 2” from stock. Using a Smittybilt 12k X2O winch with synthetic line. Relocating the solenoid box under the hood for a cleaner winch look. This winch comes with plastic “armor” with writing. I won’t be using that. I also changed the top bars front to back so the Smittybilt logo is hidden. Need to paint the writing on the fairlead too. Still need to wire it up but should finish that in the next few days.

I used a the Harbor Freight winch mount, for $40 on sale, I couldn’t build it that cheap. It’s 1/4” thick and I cut it down to fit the frame rails and added some 1/4” angle so it bolts to the frame in 6 places each side and incorporates pushing the bumper mounts out.
Cutting the bumper was a little nerve wracking.


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Found your post a month later….cant figure out why but …man it is a captivating 8 page read…good luck continuing the success of being right…it is a great feeling and a cool truck !
 
The tick/rattle I referenced prior was bad spark knock! Never heard it so bad! I figured it out right after that last post but never put anything up. Timing was set to 15 so I backed it down to about 10 btdc and it was mostly gone except long hills. Disconnected vacuum advance as well and that cured it. I knew I’d come back to it but have been busy.

All that leads to this post. I finally got around to playing with it the other day and while I’m not done, I’m well on the way! After lots of reading here and checking both my spare distributors, I assumed my advance bushing was disintegrated, causing too much mechanical advance, thus my spark knock. I picked up a few aluminum #8 id 1/4”x1/4” bushings as I’ve seen many mention on here, then dove in.

To begin, I wanted to baseline where my distributor was so I increased rpm’s from idle in 250 rpm increments and used my dial back to note the advance until it stopped advancing. I know a dial back isn’t 100% accurate for this but it’ll be close enough for this experiment. What surprised me is I only got 9 total mechanical advance which should be stock from a graph I saw @FJ40Jim post. I was assuming my bushing was gone (it was) and I should’ve seen about 5-6 more degrees full advance. 2 assumptions, the first is my idle is set to 750 rpm and maybe the mechanical advance starts coming in lower than that? Next assumption/reality further down….

Anyhow, advance curve plotted, I waited for it to cool and pulled the distributor. It was in worse shape inside than I expected! Besides being really dirty inside, there were 3 main issues I found.
1: The bearing plate the vacuum advance moves was super gummed up and “notchy”. I pulled some vacuum and it would slowly and not smoothly move it, then releasing vacuum; it would stay put for up to 10 seconds then twitch back to rest.
2: The advance weights were equally gummed up and would stick at different points that I put them at and need some input to get them to move further.
3: As expected, the bushing was disintegrated, allowing (if the weights moved freely) too much advance.

With these things, I think I found my bad spark knock. Mechanical advance staying wherever it felt, too much total advance and the vacuum advance staying all in well after it should’ve released.

So I cleaned and lubed the bearing plate the vacuum advance moves until it spun very freely, cleaned and lubed all the weights and springs and then installed the aluminum bushing.

I had to get it back together for work the next day so no time to graph the advance curve now, but I set initial timing to 15 degrees btdc and it is running way better and pulls much smoother through the whole rpm range. Seems to rev up much faster during normal driving and better accel from 2000-3000 where it used to be sluggish. Still need to hook up the vacuum advance and I’m going to play with advance springs a bit over the next few weeks as I have time. I’m not going to try the typical HEI springs as they are much shorter than the stock ones and I think it’ll be an excessive spring rate once stretched (I want advance all in by 2500-ish rpm).

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What I found when I pulled distributor.
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Gummed up mechanical advance.
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Cleaned up and ready for install.

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Bushing added for mechanical advance.
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Green line is where I’m hoping I get my mechanical advance when I’m all done. Blue is supposed to be stockish advance curve.
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Had some time today to map out where I am post-clean and lube. Also mapped the 2 sides of the vacuum advance can by using a mighty vac and dial back timing light.
Changed my target timing in the graph a little (light blue line) but we will see when I start playing with springs what it does performance wise. Driven it to work the last 6 days and it revs so much smoother than before and can gain or at minimum hold rpm on hills I used to downshift.

Poor pic of computer screen… Dark green line is where I am now; timing comes in a little sooner than I think I’d like and reaches max mechanical advance sooner than I’d like but again, it’s driving pretty smooth. Going to try a heavier spring to delay the advance a few hundred rpm and a longer ramp up to max advance. I typically don’t cruise below 2200 rpm so that’s about where I want my max mechanical advance to be all in at.

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Vacuum advance at idle using the mighty vac. Idk where I want this yet, I need to tape my vacuum gauge to my windshield and drive around a few days and make notes of what my vacuum is doing before I decide.

What I think I know is that it is coming in at too low of a vacuum and all in lower than ideal? I’d rather see vac advance start coming in after 6-7” and be all in around 12-15” but again, I need to drive it and observe what it’s doing.

I also think I’m not getting as much as I should get from the secondary side as I’ve read about 4 degrees of vac from that one is stock. Could be some gunk or corrosion in there.
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Oil and filter change, new fuel filter, chassis lube and tire rotation day. Wife’s Highlander even got its service.
Cut my fuel and oil filters open and much cleaner fuel filter since sealing the tank. Oil filter has no worrying metals so that’s nice.


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Also of note, since my distributor cleanup, I’ve been averaging almost 14.5 mpg vs the 11.5 mpg from before. Seems to have better power, not downshifting on hills that I used to and can hold 5th gear at 70 on some longer hills now. Still need to fiddle with my vacuum advance as it’s not hooked up at all right now. I’ve also been looking at the power valve and am really tempted to make it come in at a higher vacuum….
 
Also of note, since my distributor cleanup, I’ve been averaging almost 14.5 mpg vs the 11.5 mpg from before. Seems to have better power, not downshifting on hills that I used to and can hold 5th gear at 70 on some longer hills now. Still need to fiddle with my vacuum advance as it’s not hooked up at all right now. I’ve also been looking at the power valve and am really tempted to make it come in at a higher vacuum….
I might have a NOS vac advance that needs a proper new home.
 
I might have a NOS vac advance that needs a proper new home.
I have a couple spares. Mine works but I don’t like the advance curve on it so I have some modifications in mind. Just haven’t had time yet to really get into it.
 
At my last oil change I pulled the oil pressure sending wire to clean out the cover and inadvertently hooked it back up to the spade tab. Fried the gauge. Ugh! I saw some posts and today I tried what @kenavt did and dissected my gauge.

What seems to happen is the spring steel gets hot and warps away from its normal movement. Through some trial and error I was able to bend the steel to about where my gauge used to be when off and when idling. Who knows the accuracy but these are just a moving warning light anyway so at least I’ll see if it’s lower or higher than expected and know to investigate.


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Also “installed” this little glow in the dark bead gecko my daughter made me awhile back. Squeezed it between the lens and the center stand-off. Gave it some brisk shakes and it stayed put. She wanted it to ride in the car with me when I’m off hunting and stuff so I have company but it was so small I kept losing it.
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Starting in on my tire/cooler carrier. Hopefully finish it up in the next couple weeks.
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Cruiser mantra: While you’re in there…..

While doing this tire/cooler carrier project I decided I may as well do the c channel repair while I’m already in there. Ordered @TRAIL TAILOR c channel kit and started beating rivets like they owed me money. Went pretty quick really (quick being a couple hours). Cutting wheel to get the rivet heads off that it could reach, then air hammer them out. For those I couldn’t get at with the grinder, I drilled the head and through part of the rivet shank then air hammer. Cleaned everything up and sprayed some Ospho then dtm primer and some satin black on the frame rails. (Yes, I know the shackle is on backward. Put it back together real quick so I could set it on the ground).
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Ditched the first cooler basket I was making and made one slightly smaller and different. It’s a double swing out and the factory bumper will cover the lower structure so just the arms are seen. Just dropped it at the Powdercoater’s. It hinders the lights a little so I’ll add combo signals on the arms themselves for more visibility. Made enough room in case I ever go to 35’s. Also has a removable hi lift jack mount on the tire side so I’m not always driving around with the jack.
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I powdercoated the c channel pieces. This is my first time using my at home powdercoating kit and I think they turned out pretty nice. Just waiting on the other parts to get done at the real powdercoater.
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Since I had been living under a rock for 25 years, I did not know about any “home” powder coating kit…. That looks really GREAT! Have you looked into the labor effort and materials cost versus a trip to the real powder coaters?
 
Since I had been living under a rock for 25 years, I did not know about any “home” powder coating kit…. That looks really GREAT! Have you looked into the labor effort and materials cost versus a trip to the real powder coaters?
I bought the Eastwood kit when it was on a good sale and picked up a free oven. My local Powdercoater has a minimum charge; something like these wouldn’t have met that. They usually also have a week or so lead time. With this setup, I can do stuff as I have time and can install parts within an hour of coating them, as soon as they cool. A pound of powder is pretty cheap (powdercoat powder anyway….), like $30 ish. So after the initial investment it’s just a little electricity and powder cost. At least with these parts, it was super simple to coat as well.
 
I have heard and seen several aluminum radiators leak after short service time. Old timer shared that they can experience galvanic action. He usually adds a zinc ground strap feom radiator to frame.
 
I have heard and seen several aluminum radiators leak after short service time. Old timer shared that they can experience galvanic action. He usually adds a zinc ground strap feom radiator to frame.
I’ve got a ground from this radiator to frame. Funny enough, since I’ve had this on my lift I’ve noticed this warranty replacement radiator seems to be leaking in 2 spots. Need to dig into that further.
 
Pretty much wrapped up on the tire/cooler carrier. I need to wire the license plate light and brake/tail/turn lights but it’s on and functional.
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That does look great…do you need to move the license plate to a “visible” area on the rear?

My daughter had a new vehicle a few yrs ago and the dealer installed a chrome looking frame around the license plate. The frame partially coveredthe top of the plate where it said New Jersey. Some cop gave her a ticket. I suggested she fight the ship out of it and kill however many days it took to show how absurd this was.

She said F it, it’s $45…

If you have “stuff” like this in Skreddyville, you may want to look into it. You get some rookie newby who has nothing better to do. On the other hand, THIS is NJ.
 
That does look great…do you need to move the license plate to a “visible” area on the rear?

My daughter had a new vehicle a few yrs ago and the dealer installed a chrome looking frame around the license plate. The frame partially coveredthe top of the plate where it said New Jersey. Some cop gave her a ticket. I suggested she fight the ship out of it and kill however many days it took to show how absurd this was.

She said F it, it’s $45…

If you have “stuff” like this in Skreddyville, you may want to look into it. You get some rookie newby who has nothing better to do. On the other hand, THIS is NJ.
Yes, license plate has a couple tabs under the cooler it hangs off of and a light as well. Just wasn’t moved yet in the pics. I have some led combo lights that mount on each “arm” as well so it’s a little easier to see the brake/turn/running lights since they are partially obscured by the tire and cooler.
 
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