Sheila's evisceration and birth of an HJ62 -> Tofudebeest

[paulwolf350]

here we go, neither of these manuals are genuine toyota so should only be used as a guide, I have changed some of the colours to match my car, the po of the manual had written all over it too but you will get the idea

let me know if you need any help, I will try to help out as much as possible.



Paul

 

[paulwolf350]

pics

 

[Henry James the 47th]

Not arguing, but the harness will need to be flipped, which is really just upside down. Do you see any issues with that?

One issue would be that the assumption made above is incorrect. From my own experiences trying this same maneuver in the HJ47, while it is true that the harness section -just within the confines of the dash- pretty much could be 'flipped', there is the rest of the harness to consider and it doesn't take so kindly to flipping. Some things are run down one side of the body/chassis for a reason. In the 60, the harness to the rear of the truck, which connects to the courtesy lighting, gas tank, rear taillights, license lights, etc, had a route along the left inner part -the sill- of the body. The harness may not go so easily in the opposite sill, and the wiring for the interior light will likely be on the wrong side. This would be okay if taking the headliner out is on the table.

There are the harness extensions that relate to the engine, like the wires for the glow plugs, current sensor, oil pressure switch, and so forth, have to be on one side, and with a 2H engine it is the right side. Ditto for the alternator wiring which will always be on the left side of the truck. Then there's the sedimenter circuit, normally routed down the right side floorpan and through a hole. That has to stay on the same side, unless you wish to reroute your fuel lines to the other side as well, right into the area where the hot exhaust pipe travels - not really a good idea.

I agree with another poster above: I suggest unwrapping the HJ harness and taking out the components particular to the diesel situation, and graft them into your 62 harness - which will also need to be unwrapped, and have most of the engine-related stuff chopped, unless wire colors and terminal blocks on the 62 harness are the same as on the HJ60 in some areas which, when it comes to the engine, I doubt.

My $0.02.

 

[paulwolf350]

I wouldnt unwrap the 62 harness, though I agree that you should in order to do it properly, because it will have to come out of the car to do so, I would just tape up the stuff you dont use / cut off and leave it

then I would run the hj bits separate

paul

 

[Henry James the 47th]

Sure, separate runs is fine until you come to places like firewalls where there is a grommet the harness has to pass through and no place for the new little bit of wrapped harness to go. Some people would rip a new hole in the grommet, or drill another hole, and poke the harness through, if there's room to do that...


but it seems to me that while you have the harnesses out it makes sense to remove the stuff on the old one that is no longer of use - which is a fair bit, when you consider the emission controls, engine loom section, plus wiring for headlamp washers and other paraphernalia. So, not only does pulling the wires make room for the new ones to be grafted in, and not only to remove a bunch of clutter, but it also is part and parcel of having really good familiarity of what wire is what and where each goes. In a job like this, there's a definite need to get really familiar with the wiring, plain and simple. It's not a 'plug and play' affair when you're moving between gas and diesel as well as RHD to LHD. The good news is that given the complexity of the 62's harness, most of it can be left well enough alone.

The question that comes to my mind involves the fuse panel(s). The 62's is likely to be chockablock with fuses, ditto for the relay panel. So, where are you going to fit the glow relay fuses and ignition relay fuse for the 2H? Add part/all of the HJ60's fuse panel/relay holder?

 

[Tofudebeest]

THIS is precisely why I am intimidated by the wiring. I am thinking that Deo is one smart dude to have a professional tackle this aspect of his conversion. Honestly, I don't think I have the time or patience to handle this particular part of this conversion.

And Paul, that was mighty cool of you to go to the trouble to get those manuals, scan the relevent pages and post them. I do already own the Gregory manual and those wiring diagrams have given me real headaches just by looking at them.

 

[Tofudebeest]

Hey Tofudebeest! I have a HJ60, and have tinkered a bit with the harness. I even have a Haynes Manual on it (which btw is American, that stinks, I'm used to the English, were everything is done and told. In the American, everytime there is something a bit complicated, it says: "this is a complicated procedure, please consult your local mechanic" Liability issues crap!)
But, to the issue, if there is anything I can help with I'll be glad to!
Fx i know the preheatersystem... and it is a pain!...

I appreciate that. Without fellow TLC fanatic support, I would not have begun to attempt this job.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

.."those wiring diagrams have given me real headaches just by looking at them."

I felt the same way looking at the Gregory drawings. The Haynes drawings were better, and more like the factory ones. The Gregory drawings add to the confusion by having a table and numbering system of the components, instead of labeling them directly on the drawing itself. It was great to see the wiring diagrams posted up nonetheless.

Aside: I'm still looking for a factory HJ60/61 wiring diagram from 1986~7, including details for the automatic transmission/non-EDIC versions, so if anyone out there has a diagram out there like that, please consider posting it up.

 

[euclid]

One trick for making wiring diagrams make sense: Take your books to kinkos. Blow up the diagrams onto 11X17 sheets of paper. Tape them together and lay them out. Bunch of different color highlighters, and start tracing.

Works well for me because I'm see things in a spatial way.

 

[paulwolf350]

Some people would rip a new hole in the grommet, or drill another hole, and poke the harness through, if there's room to do that...

Yeah, thats me I am a 'rip a new hole an get that thing through' kinda guy


I thought the wiring diagrams were a nightmare (and they are), but once I got into it they provided me with a guide to what I was seeing in my harness

Paul

 

[Tofudebeest]

Just bought myself some time by buying a 3rd vehicle. Photos by week's end.

 

[Project60]

That has to stay on the same side, unless you wish to reroute your fuel lines to the other side as well, right into the area where the hot exhaust pipe travels - not really a good idea.

I just got done welding new inner frame rail patches into my frame on my 83 60 and there were no threaded holes (no nuts on the back side) on the driver side as there were on the passenger side frame rail for the fuel/brake lines. This would mean you would have to tap out some holes to a larger size on the driver side if you want to run fuel lines on that side.

 

[paulwolf350]

the hj60 fuel lines run up the drivers side in aus, passengers side in US so no mods there


tofu, where are the pictures, just went through nine pages to find this thread, post man, post

Paul

 

[Tofudebeest]

I'm picking up my spare vehicle, an '87 MB 300D, which will be my DD until Tofudebeest is on the road.

My new pedal bucket arrived yesterday. I get my clutch master cylinder soon as well. I'll take a few photos tonight. Sorry. Not much progress.

 

[Christian]

Merc DD and a Cruiser in the build, I like that!

 

[Henry James the 47th]

the hj60 fuel lines run up the drivers side in aus, passengers side in US so no mode there

Paul

In other words, they go along the same side of the truck. The trucks with the 2H keep the exhaust on the left and the fuel lines and sedimenter on the right. With trucks using the 3B engine, which dumps to the right side, the trucks end up with a highly convoluted exhaust system, as the pipe travels around along the floor pan, jogging up and over the driveshaft, over to the left side of the vehicle, thus avoiding the gas tank lines. It seems that the fuel tank systems are set up one way only, regardless of LHD/RHD, and fit the engine and ancillary systems, fuel and vacuum lines, etc, around that. I imagine it's because of the tanks fit to the sheet metal pressings, like the fuel filler inlet and the shape of the floorpan the tank presses against.

I'd love to know why Hino designed the B series engines with intake/exhaust reversed to the H series engines - what's the reason?

 

[Tapage]

I'd love to know why Hino designed the B series engines with intake/exhaust reversed to the H series engines - what's the reason?

Me too .. but it's clear ( at least IMOP if is important ) that 2H design it's better suited in a land cruiser plataform

 

[Henry James the 47th]

Me too .. but it's clear ( at least IMOP if is important ) that 2H design it's better suited in a land cruiser platform

Interesting...what leads you to conclude that? I hadn't really thought of which engine may/may not be 'better', so I would like to know your reasons.

 

[Tapage]

Interesting...what leads you to conclude that? I hadn't really thought of which engine may/may not be 'better', so I would like to know your reasons.

Out of Joke .. and I need to sai I love my 1HDT engine that run exhaust in the passenger side ..

Why run the exaust in the most complicate side of the frame .. ? in my HJ-60 I have all fuel lines in the pass side, along with DS .. nice and in the other side clean the e3xhaust with enought space in rear to my other water radiator and track bar ..

 

[Tofudebeest]

Exhaust and fuel lines should not be on the same side of the vehicle, for obvious reasons, especially in gassers.

As for my new ride, it's our second MB diesel. My wife drives an '83 300TD (the wagon) and loves it. It has 325,000 miles and runs as well as my buddy's '85 300TD with 122,000 miles on it. The new one (the '87) was the updated body style, which we don't like as much as the older more classic lines of the 240 and 300 series of the late 70's through '86. We own these because they're proven to be the most durable motors ever built in a passenger vehicle and we can run B100 in 'em.