Dec 10, 2005
Here is a quick rundown so far
plans call for 36" simex centrepedes OR maybe 36 inch Baja Crushers
motor - 5L General Motors Holden V8 (actually 308, 5044cc)
balanced crank, rods, pistons, forged pistons, moly rings
VT commodore heads, stock reco ( good for 480 hp anyway)
VN commodore EFI setup
COME 222 hydraulic cam
Chiptorque cip to suit above
11:1 compression ( needs to run on BP ultimate)
this all mates up to a Toyota A440F through an 80 seris 1fzf bellhousing and torque convertor, standard 60 series transfer case
This then runs to stndard 80 series diffs converted to the leaf setup of the 60,
Front suspension is recieving a reverse shackle with 75 series OME springs. Sweet as. also got 2" extended shackles, 2" bodylift so all up 2" spring,2" shackles, 2" body gives about 6inch lift
80 series diffs with neg offset rims give about 5" increase in track, as well as biggest CVs Toyota make ( same as 100 series) and disc brakes all round
Chasis is and will remain stock length 106" is ok by me
Cooling systen is stock holden with a 5 core, triple bypass HQ radiator, 2 thermos. Should be sweet, I got more room under the bonnet for air to circulate than any of the turbo setups I have seen
Body is going to be cut back into an extra cab ute with comp tray, cab will be big enough to put a 12V fridge behind the drivers seat and body will also have a 6 point competition cage, racing seats, 4 point harnesses
thinking about a rear winch as well but dunno for sure
I will post some pictures and more info tomorrow.
Paul
Dec 31, 2005
First up I dont have any pics of when It first turned up but here it is today sitting in my yard
It was originally rolling on 15x7 chrome 60 series steelies and was completely stock
Fist up was a check through to find what we actually had. Turns out to be a pretty tidy 60. beauty
No rust in the roof,
pretty tidy inside, 0nly 500 000km on the clock, gee I love Toyota engineering and reliability
I took it for a quick drive around the block to make sure it all worked OK, 2h diesel autos would have to be the slowest POS on the road. I thought my Brother in laws 2litre hilux was slow. That motor had to go!!!!!
The first job on the agenda after the initial inspection was to start removing some of the extra stuff for sale, ie wheels, diffs, engine. I needed to recover some money coz I had just lashed out and 80 series diffs and wheels were on their way.
The tyres were ripped off and sold, the engine was ripped out and sold and an adaptor kit was purchased using the engine money. At this stage my holden ute (like an El Camino) plans were scrapped (poor old girl)
and the engine sequestered for the 60. I assembled the rest of the motor and started to fit it.
The 1FZ motor must sit further forward from the firewall in an 80 coz with a 1FZ bellhousing and the 80 series adaptor the motor is sitting very close to the firewall.
I wanted it moved back as far as I could. So worked out perfect
you can see how close it is to the firewall in the pic
at this stage I also learned not to mix and match bits from different kits in bodgy cars. The engine mounting brackets form an 80 kit would not fit so I bought ones from a 60 kit, but because the motor sits back so far they would not work either. Solution - Booty fab some of my own
turned out well too. Thats the last of the store bought ****(read, easy way), its booty fab all the way now.
So motor is in place properly, sitting back and low to keep my weight low and correct driveline angles. Looking scweet. I could stare at that sweet V8 for a month alone but I dont, I ve just started night shift so I'm off Tuesdays, Wednesdays. Everyone else is at work, I have nothing to do.
Time to rip the rear diff out.
Figure the rear diff conversion to be pretty simple, grind brackets off 80 diff, sling it under line it up, weld some brackets on DONE.
Yeah right, except both diffs weigh a ton, when welding we burned the handbrake mechanism and the oil seal and it was put in and out about 5 times, stripped to bare housing and rebuilt
currently sitting on stock springs with extended shackles, looking pretty high. Decided to do bodylift to see how high it would be in finished state. sweet.
You can see my bodylift blocks in the front end shots shortly
While this was going on I decided the skinny wheels were no good, needed to measure full width to make sure it would all work so I got some 15x8 wheels off Marc Huth with the early offset for a bit more width. Iron Pig has plenty of width now.
Before I manufactured all of the brackets to mount the front diff, i thought i would do a reverse shackle conversion on the front end to improve approach angle. the rivets were carefully drilled out and the brackets carefully removed. that was the plan, they were actually bashed off with a hammer, they were tough to remove.
So we have started the reverse shackle, the next step was to reposition the brackets, measuring to keep them aligned and square and tack weld them in position.
I am using 75 series springs to give me some more length in the springs which will articulate better. Mock up the front end, fab more mounting brackets and tack in position.
the next thing on the agenda is to finish my u bolt flip kit and mount all my front diff, final measuring, aligning and fully welding
that pretty much brings us up to speed currently. A rough timeline I bought the car in July, it got delivered in August, 1 month it sat while we got everything ready (August), 1 month for the rear diff and body lift (September), 1 month for the engine conversion (October), 5 weeks so far on the front diff, ( as well as sorting out a blown up motor).
I have also done some other stuff to the car in that time but that is a pretty rough guide to how long it took
Jan 11, 2006
Good news, I just sold some trash, um i mean 'collectibles', out my yard. 36 in simex centrepedes coming up. pics coming asap. hopefully get them in 2-3 weeks
Paully
Jan 29, 2006
well I think its probably time for a bit of an update. While all you people have been on Holidays, drinking playing up and having a good time, I have been here working on my project
Any how front diff has been finished, fully welded and trial fitted. The chassis brackets have been welded on for strength, They are only riveted from factory. I just need to drop the front diff and springs back out grind the welds smooth and give the chassis a coat of paint. Thanks to Brad (B2) for the welding.
I have purchased a set of 36x12.5 simex centrepede for this rig so am starting the rim and tyre fitup. they are 15x8 inch rims, secondair beadlocks and the 'pedes. I also bought a set of ARB airlockers which can go in shortly, and on friday I bought a warn highmount winch. So I guess that puts an end to all speculation about winchs, thanks to everyone who offered advice on the winch.
I have spent this weekend finishing off lots of little jobs on the engine conversion, marrying the holden wiring to the toyota stuff, changed the sump coz I had the wrong one origonally, fitted the extractors, tidied up a few loose ends, fitted the roller rockers.
I now just have to repaint the tappet covers and put them on, finish off the wiring and I can look at firing it up. woo hoo, maybe in a couple of weeks, woo hoo.
Hopefully in march it will be drivable as a wagon. ( i know its a big call but I am really gettting excited so am working on it a fair bit.)
March 5, 2006
Well another month has gone by, I am still working on the 5 litre for the cruiser, I have finished all of the wiring mods ( read nightmare )to convert from diesel motor to injected v8. Toyota in their wisdom seem to make the wiring as complicated as possible but I have it all sorted now, just a few loose ends to tidy up (loose ends, wiring ......ha ha ha).
As I posted last time I had bought my simex tyres, some ARB airlockers
and a highmount warn winch, all of which has arrived safely home ready to be fitted.
All in all it is starting to look like a car again, motor is mostly wired up, bonnet on, front end in, standard wheels on. Need to find a couple of 80 series steering rods and some flexible brake lines, then it will be drivable. it is slowly coming together
Rims are off to be sandblasted and painted, so when they come back it will be Beadlocked Simext time, more photos then
Cheers
Paully
May 16, 2006
Well actually a lot has happened in the world of project 'gunna'. in the last month or so BUT my cameras broke, so no pictures like promised.
but as most people are aware the 60 is now riding on 36inch, internal beadlocked simexs on -25mm offset (early cruiser offset) which on an 80series diff pushes the wheels outside the guards by about 60mm each side, looks tough, great for stability, not quite legal though. I will have to come up with a flare of some sort to cover it up.
winch bar has been modified and is on the front, highmount fits well and after the bar is painted and installed for the last time the highmount will go in.
I have also sectioned the body - the rear of the cab is now in place 400mm behind the front seats. it took 1 hour with a 9 inch grinder to chop it off, about 100 hours to put it back on. It does look good though, it will also allow me to have about 1200mm of tray ( or maybe more) so it has worked out as good or better than I hoped.
Speecho
Here is a quick rundown so far
plans call for 36" simex centrepedes OR maybe 36 inch Baja Crushers
motor - 5L General Motors Holden V8 (actually 308, 5044cc)
balanced crank, rods, pistons, forged pistons, moly rings
VT commodore heads, stock reco ( good for 480 hp anyway)
VN commodore EFI setup
COME 222 hydraulic cam
Chiptorque cip to suit above
11:1 compression ( needs to run on BP ultimate)
this all mates up to a Toyota A440F through an 80 seris 1fzf bellhousing and torque convertor, standard 60 series transfer case
This then runs to stndard 80 series diffs converted to the leaf setup of the 60,
Front suspension is recieving a reverse shackle with 75 series OME springs. Sweet as. also got 2" extended shackles, 2" bodylift so all up 2" spring,2" shackles, 2" body gives about 6inch lift
80 series diffs with neg offset rims give about 5" increase in track, as well as biggest CVs Toyota make ( same as 100 series) and disc brakes all round
Chasis is and will remain stock length 106" is ok by me
Cooling systen is stock holden with a 5 core, triple bypass HQ radiator, 2 thermos. Should be sweet, I got more room under the bonnet for air to circulate than any of the turbo setups I have seen
Body is going to be cut back into an extra cab ute with comp tray, cab will be big enough to put a 12V fridge behind the drivers seat and body will also have a 6 point competition cage, racing seats, 4 point harnesses
thinking about a rear winch as well but dunno for sure
I will post some pictures and more info tomorrow.
Paul
Dec 31, 2005
First up I dont have any pics of when It first turned up but here it is today sitting in my yard
It was originally rolling on 15x7 chrome 60 series steelies and was completely stock
Fist up was a check through to find what we actually had. Turns out to be a pretty tidy 60. beauty
No rust in the roof,
pretty tidy inside, 0nly 500 000km on the clock, gee I love Toyota engineering and reliability
I took it for a quick drive around the block to make sure it all worked OK, 2h diesel autos would have to be the slowest POS on the road. I thought my Brother in laws 2litre hilux was slow. That motor had to go!!!!!
The first job on the agenda after the initial inspection was to start removing some of the extra stuff for sale, ie wheels, diffs, engine. I needed to recover some money coz I had just lashed out and 80 series diffs and wheels were on their way.
The tyres were ripped off and sold, the engine was ripped out and sold and an adaptor kit was purchased using the engine money. At this stage my holden ute (like an El Camino) plans were scrapped (poor old girl)
and the engine sequestered for the 60. I assembled the rest of the motor and started to fit it.
The 1FZ motor must sit further forward from the firewall in an 80 coz with a 1FZ bellhousing and the 80 series adaptor the motor is sitting very close to the firewall.
I wanted it moved back as far as I could. So worked out perfect
you can see how close it is to the firewall in the pic
at this stage I also learned not to mix and match bits from different kits in bodgy cars. The engine mounting brackets form an 80 kit would not fit so I bought ones from a 60 kit, but because the motor sits back so far they would not work either. Solution - Booty fab some of my own
turned out well too. Thats the last of the store bought ****(read, easy way), its booty fab all the way now.
So motor is in place properly, sitting back and low to keep my weight low and correct driveline angles. Looking scweet. I could stare at that sweet V8 for a month alone but I dont, I ve just started night shift so I'm off Tuesdays, Wednesdays. Everyone else is at work, I have nothing to do.
Time to rip the rear diff out.
Figure the rear diff conversion to be pretty simple, grind brackets off 80 diff, sling it under line it up, weld some brackets on DONE.
Yeah right, except both diffs weigh a ton, when welding we burned the handbrake mechanism and the oil seal and it was put in and out about 5 times, stripped to bare housing and rebuilt
currently sitting on stock springs with extended shackles, looking pretty high. Decided to do bodylift to see how high it would be in finished state. sweet.
You can see my bodylift blocks in the front end shots shortly
While this was going on I decided the skinny wheels were no good, needed to measure full width to make sure it would all work so I got some 15x8 wheels off Marc Huth with the early offset for a bit more width. Iron Pig has plenty of width now.
Before I manufactured all of the brackets to mount the front diff, i thought i would do a reverse shackle conversion on the front end to improve approach angle. the rivets were carefully drilled out and the brackets carefully removed. that was the plan, they were actually bashed off with a hammer, they were tough to remove.
So we have started the reverse shackle, the next step was to reposition the brackets, measuring to keep them aligned and square and tack weld them in position.
I am using 75 series springs to give me some more length in the springs which will articulate better. Mock up the front end, fab more mounting brackets and tack in position.
the next thing on the agenda is to finish my u bolt flip kit and mount all my front diff, final measuring, aligning and fully welding
that pretty much brings us up to speed currently. A rough timeline I bought the car in July, it got delivered in August, 1 month it sat while we got everything ready (August), 1 month for the rear diff and body lift (September), 1 month for the engine conversion (October), 5 weeks so far on the front diff, ( as well as sorting out a blown up motor).
I have also done some other stuff to the car in that time but that is a pretty rough guide to how long it took
Jan 11, 2006
Good news, I just sold some trash, um i mean 'collectibles', out my yard. 36 in simex centrepedes coming up. pics coming asap. hopefully get them in 2-3 weeks
Paully
Jan 29, 2006
well I think its probably time for a bit of an update. While all you people have been on Holidays, drinking playing up and having a good time, I have been here working on my project
Any how front diff has been finished, fully welded and trial fitted. The chassis brackets have been welded on for strength, They are only riveted from factory. I just need to drop the front diff and springs back out grind the welds smooth and give the chassis a coat of paint. Thanks to Brad (B2) for the welding.
I have purchased a set of 36x12.5 simex centrepede for this rig so am starting the rim and tyre fitup. they are 15x8 inch rims, secondair beadlocks and the 'pedes. I also bought a set of ARB airlockers which can go in shortly, and on friday I bought a warn highmount winch. So I guess that puts an end to all speculation about winchs, thanks to everyone who offered advice on the winch.
I have spent this weekend finishing off lots of little jobs on the engine conversion, marrying the holden wiring to the toyota stuff, changed the sump coz I had the wrong one origonally, fitted the extractors, tidied up a few loose ends, fitted the roller rockers.
I now just have to repaint the tappet covers and put them on, finish off the wiring and I can look at firing it up. woo hoo, maybe in a couple of weeks, woo hoo.
Hopefully in march it will be drivable as a wagon. ( i know its a big call but I am really gettting excited so am working on it a fair bit.)
March 5, 2006
Well another month has gone by, I am still working on the 5 litre for the cruiser, I have finished all of the wiring mods ( read nightmare )to convert from diesel motor to injected v8. Toyota in their wisdom seem to make the wiring as complicated as possible but I have it all sorted now, just a few loose ends to tidy up (loose ends, wiring ......ha ha ha).
As I posted last time I had bought my simex tyres, some ARB airlockers
and a highmount warn winch, all of which has arrived safely home ready to be fitted.
All in all it is starting to look like a car again, motor is mostly wired up, bonnet on, front end in, standard wheels on. Need to find a couple of 80 series steering rods and some flexible brake lines, then it will be drivable. it is slowly coming together
Rims are off to be sandblasted and painted, so when they come back it will be Beadlocked Simext time, more photos then
Cheers
Paully
May 16, 2006
Well actually a lot has happened in the world of project 'gunna'. in the last month or so BUT my cameras broke, so no pictures like promised.
but as most people are aware the 60 is now riding on 36inch, internal beadlocked simexs on -25mm offset (early cruiser offset) which on an 80series diff pushes the wheels outside the guards by about 60mm each side, looks tough, great for stability, not quite legal though. I will have to come up with a flare of some sort to cover it up.
winch bar has been modified and is on the front, highmount fits well and after the bar is painted and installed for the last time the highmount will go in.
I have also sectioned the body - the rear of the cab is now in place 400mm behind the front seats. it took 1 hour with a 9 inch grinder to chop it off, about 100 hours to put it back on. It does look good though, it will also allow me to have about 1200mm of tray ( or maybe more) so it has worked out as good or better than I hoped.
Speecho
