Service: Wheel bearing, Steering Knuckle, Rack OE rubber mounting bushings, Ball joints, Transmission flush W/Surprises! (1 Viewer)

[2001LC]

So I advised client to take to INDY shop that did the Timing belt job, which he did. Although this appears from timing belt cover oil leaks move down by gravity, up, back and to sides from air flow and up and outward due to capillary action. So this has spread to far to make a good call on where it's coming from.

INDY shop re-cleaned and let idle for ~5 minutes. Then show client and said oil pan leak. He texted me this picture, where you can see oil on one oil pan bolt.

He drove ~5 miles to me and I saw oil on that one oil pan bolt. I let idle for ~10 minutes and did not see anymore oil appear. I re-cleaned use brake fluid cleaner and compressed air. I made as did owner sure it was complet clean and dry of oil. Last thing I did was check to make sure two front oil pans bolts were not loose, they where not.

Here's 6 hours and ~10 miles later on Oct 31.
No leak anywhere. Pan bolt still dry. Hummmm

Here's 50 hours later ~40 miles. Hummm INDY shop called Oil PAN leak in minutes of just idling.

Here's 3 days and a HWY drive into mountains ~roughly 200 miles from last cleaning.

The oil has now reappeared. Unfortunately we cough it late so can't pinpoint first appearance. I see oil in weep hole on PS, on timing belt cover on PS and along front at bass of oil pump housing and oil pan. But I can't see any oil on that one DS oil pan bolt or around it Hummmm!

Oil spot needs re-cleaning an watching closer. Pictures need taken from both side. So we can see up the sides of cover. It seems more oily on PS, so that side also needs watching closely.

Key is to see first appearance. If pan it will first appear there. I behind timing cover it will first appear above pan.

 

[abuck99]

Looks like oil is traveling from above outside and down towards pan. Zoom in on your image and check the oil on outside edge of the weep passage.

And whats the grey goop? That doesnt look factory.

 

[2001LC]

Yep gray FIPG is factory. A tube we buy of Toyota FIPG 103 oil pan is black.

Good eye @abuck99, I saw that too on same picture shot on 11-2-19, the oily one.
But more wet oil look on PS. These picture where sent me from smart phone pic's. So zoom and angle aren't the best. But here's zoom of that oil picture and dry day before. We've one spot in fold on dry day before. This may be old grim. It needs re-cleaning while engine cold a tooth brush use to scrub. Last thing we'd want to do is make a false oil pan call and pull the pans. That is a very big job. If engine not pulled to do job, it's very likely to leak after. I'm still hopeful this is crank, cam, or they did not seal the T-belt tensioner pulley assembly bolt. It's threads are to be seal with FIPG 103 oil.
11-1-19

11-2-19

This is why we need to retake test and shoot pictures from both side.

 

[2001LC]

BTW: I asked owner of this rig, in a text, while he was at the INDY Toy shop. To speak with mechanic that did the T-belt job. I wanted to feel him out on procedure. I was going to see, without saying proper procedure, if he'd sealed those treads, clean crank and cam areas and lube area and seals before install. I was hopefully he made a procedural error. This would give a small clue as to leak location.
I never did talk with the mechanic. I was told, service manage said; "They don't allow public, to speak with mechanics". Something about he elude to they have are rather upsetting way of speaking to the public. So not allowed! Hummmmm

 

[2001LC]

Look at FIPG. I'm thinking, cutting away that excess gray FIPG may help pinpoint this leak. Or rather make sure if is or is not a pan leak. If it's pan it will be first I've seen on a 100 series.The service manage at this INDY Toy shop they've never seen before either.

I was chatting in mud with @katit in Katit's LX470 2001 restoration/maintenance thread and I posted some pictures there, show were like leaks above pan are. I was telling him I've never seen a pan leak. At just that time I got the text saying INDY Toy shop says it's a pan leak.

I was also speaking with @Ali FJ80 and he's had some not so nice things to say about this INDY Toy shop.

Wow two reported pan leaks in one day. What's the odds they both are leaking.

 

[katit]

I did replace seal again also it didn’t look like it was a problem. I also cut out FIPG, cleaned the best I can and put 103 across a seam. Totally pointless but if it is pan - I will know. I don’t want to pull engine

 

[lesgarten]

I hear you. Rebooting is a messy pain. To really get the outer CV clean takes all day.

Got a question about this. Have you ever cleaned one with Kerosene?

I just pulled mine for a reboot and am getting ready to tackle the cleaning.

I can see if you are trying to clean with brake cleaner that it would take forever. But diesel fuel or kerosene seems like it might be the ticket.

 

[lesgarten]

Double post

 

[2001LC]

Got a question about this. Have you ever cleaned one with Kerosene?

I just pulled mine for a reboot and am getting ready to tackle the cleaning.

I can see if you are trying to clean with brake cleaner that it would take forever. But diesel fuel or kerosene seems like it might be the ticket.

I've not use those as cleaners on a 100 series. I did use kerosene for cleaning guns, as a very young man. I do not know how well residue will rinses out.

Here's how I did: I soaked CV, by standing on end and filling with petroleum based solvent. Pour it out and rinse with water based solvent, one with rust inhibitor. The water based solvent was so I did not make mess and pollute ground water with petroleum solvent. Than I clean with water from a garden hose. Air dry with HP air. Than repeat until while pouring out and rinses all ran clear. I did this 7 times before it ran clear. This is time consuming PITA. But it gets very very clean.

But if you do not have any contaminants inside the CV. Consider doing this:
Just let the CV lube drain out. By letting it sit upside down over night, dripping into a pan. Than just add your new CV lube, without cleaning. If any cleaners get into grease, it can break it down, so don't use. Most shop do this, but only drain for a few minutes.

You'll see some helpful info here.

Front Drive Shaft (AKA CV’s) reboot, Help!

Hey guys I’ve got a problem. I used a water based cleaning solvent someone gave me along with parts clean I purchase, to use after solvents' heavy cleaning. Well some of my matchmarks (axle and cage) washed off while cleaning parts. The parts just cleaned in petroleum based solvent still have...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[lesgarten]

I've not use those as cleaners on a 100 series. I did use kerosene for cleaning guns, as a very young man. I do not know how well residue will rinses out.

Here's how I did: I soaked CV, by standing on end and filling with petroleum based solvent. Pour it out and rinse with water based solvent, one with rust inhibitor. The water based solvent was so I did not make mess and pollute ground water with petroleum solvent. Than I clean with water from a garden hose. Air dry with HP air. Than repeat until while pouring out and rinses all ran clear. I did this 7 times before it ran clear. This is time consuming PITA. But it gets very very clean.

But if you do not have any contaminants inside the CV. Consider doing this:
Just let the CV lube drain out. By letting it sit upside down over night, dripping into a pan. Than just add your new CV lube, without cleaning. If any cleaners get into grease, it can break it down, so don't use. Most shop do this, but only drain for a few minutes.

You'll see some helpful info here.

Front Drive Shaft (AKA CV’s) reboot, Help!

Hey guys I’ve got a problem. I used a water based cleaning solvent someone gave me along with parts clean I purchase, to use after solvents' heavy cleaning. Well some of my matchmarks (axle and cage) washed off while cleaning parts. The parts just cleaned in petroleum based solvent still have...

forum.ih8mud.com

So I was thinking of cleaning with Jet-A fuel which is basically Kerosene and then degreasing with Brakleen. Possibly also using simple green if need be.

 

[2001LC]

Sounds good!

 

[lesgarten]

Reason I chose Jet fuel is because I just don't like the smell of diesel that much

 

[OwnerCS]

So I was thinking of cleaning with Jet-A fuel which is basically Kerosene and then degreasing with Brakleen. Possibly also using simple green if need be.

I basically do this. I use a lot of Kerosene as the 1st stage cleaner. I like Kerosene because it is gentle. Though its hard to find in 5-gal quantities now days.

Sometimes I will mix in some Naptha or Berryman Chemtool when dealing with hard to clean engine parts.

 

[lesgarten]

I basically do this. I use a lot of Kerosene as the 1st stage cleaner. I like Kerosene because it is gentle. Though its hard to find in 5-gal quantities now days.

Sometimes I will mix in some Naptha or Berryman Chemtool when dealing with hard to clean engine parts.

I just got back from the airport. Bought 4 gallons of Jet-A which is basically kerosene. Kerosene from like Walmart or Tractor supply is real expensive. Some areas of the country you can find it at service stations or Feed and Seed places. General aviation airports that service Turboprops or Jets have Jet-A. It was $6/gallon. I had called them ahead of time and they said I could buy a few gallons and they would pump into a Gasoline container. But I should have brought a large funnel to fit the gas can. They rustle'd up a funnel, but it was a small outflow and was a bit slow to flow into the gas can.

Diesel fuel works but the smell is terrible and it never seems to go away.