Service: Wheel bearing, Steering Knuckle, Rack OE rubber mounting bushings, Ball joints, Transmission flush W/Surprises!

[suprarx7nut]

So I take it you replaced FDS, for some other reason than play in hub flange.

I don't have any new setups (FDS, with hub flange) lying around right now. A new setup will have, and develop very minor rotational play just by way of the new part breaking in together. But those will not have any clunk whatsoever. Next time I do have a new setup, I'll try to remember to grab my dial indicator. The tricky part measuring back lash at hub flange stud, is keeping the FDS from turning/moving. If it does, it may make it seem as if play in the splines, when axle is actually moving. A used setup that is what I'd call serviceable, will have some rotational play and very mild D-N-R clunk. It's a judgment call.

New Hub flange on used axle has some backlash (rotational play), but was and improvement.
View attachment 2116382

When I have, just placed a new hub flange on a new axle. It does feel if just a tiny bit of rotation CW & CCW play. Seems some of that is actually rocking from front to back rather than CW & CCW.

Another way to get a feel of movement is while tire on the ground to eliminate any moment in hub flange, but can be done with tire off ground. I garb outer CV tulip of front drive shaft and twist/rotate CW & CCW. With brand OEM new setup you'll not really feel or see any remarkable rotation. With to much play, it will be obvious. Kind of like this:


Sometimes I'll just replacing hub flange to get a small incremental improvement, when axle looks good, and hub flange marginal. I'll put a new hub flange on axle, and compare to old by hand. If I see some improvement, I'll replace. If improvement is very very little, I'll weight other points I inspect to make final call if it's worth the cost.

Those other points are:

1) Face where snap ring butts.
2) Flat surface of back of flange that mates to wheel hub.
3) Condition of cone washer holes.

Those three point get damage for only a few reason (other than road hazard like accident) that I've seen:

1) Snap ring gap to wide from old snap being reused and gap not set. Gap to wide and hub flange face and axle groove takes a beating as axle moves in & out past design limits. Also snap ring expands each time expanded to install & remove, then fit loosely. Now it set up a condition where snap ring does not have as much of axle splines to secure it. As it pound on axle there is not less surface area so damage is faster. This is leading reason a snap ring pops off. This damage the axle and snap ring and may make it impossible to keep a snap ring on.
Side note: This along with loose wheel bearing chatter cause axle moment in and out like a saw. Add in the chatter and it becomes a power saw. Eats the splines of both hub flange and axle. That is without a doubt, what happen to the very bad hub flange and axle above in post #54 and here.
The axle snap ring groove shows one effect of allowing a wide gap. The axle takes beating also widening the groove. These (Hub face & axle groove) are addition places wear that increase snap ring gap. Here reusing a snap ring that fit to loosen around axle. You can see how the groove step-u as it eats away axle excessive in and out movement.
View attachment 2116361
Damages snap ring as well. With less surface area holding snap ring on axle, both get eaten faster. This is ready to pop off.
View attachment 2116381
This may have been someones answer to an axle that could no longer retain a snap ring or splines total gone both. I' really think a bad idea. Get it down the road for awhile I suppose!
View attachment 2116359

The pounding hub flange takes, form widening snap ring gap, will eat into face of flange widening gap.
Cycle then accelerates. Damage that need never happen.
New OEM is so sweet, we can keep in near new condition by proper servicing.
View attachment 2116473

Yeah, I replaced the FDS to avoid the hassle and time-sink of a reboot. I was also unsure of axle play at that interface and wanted to play it safe and just get new splines wherever possible to minimize clunk. Not the most cost effective solution, but it saved me time and ensured that interface wouldn't be an issue going forward.

 

[2001LC]

Yeah, I replaced the FDS to avoid the hassle and time-sink of a reboot. I was also unsure of axle play at that interface and wanted to play it safe and just get new splines wherever possible to minimize clunk. Not the most cost effective solution, but it saved me time and ensured that interface wouldn't be an issue going forward.

I hear you. Rebooting is a messy pain. To really get the outer CV clean takes all day.

Also if a lift done, even with diff drop. So many find FDS clicking (going bad) in short order.

New front drive shafts with hub flange is just so sweet any way you look at it. Except a bit hard on the wallet.

 

[2001LC]

Hub flange damage by beating on them

Beating on hub flange, studs and or cone washer with steel (hammer, cold chisel, pneumatic steel chisel), damages the hub flange (or studs) by warping it. Two main areas of concern are the cone washes seat and the back of the hub flange. What happen is; while someone is removing cone washers, they will pound on the hub flange with a steel hammer. They'll hit at point close to cone washer. This warp the cone hole, making egg shape or oval of what should be a round hole. This can affect the cone washer function, in centering hub flange (axle to hub).

Second this pounding warp the back plat of hub flange effecting its ability to mat tightly with the wheel hub. They general hit the wheel hub also warping it (creating a high spot). Warping may not a good choice of words. Better may be, to just say smashing, drives up metal creating high spots. Than; gasket between the two becomes ineffective. Now we have possible water entry point. If warp very bad, may keep flange from seating squarely, possible effecting angle on axle. Some take a chisel and hit directly on cone washer, damaging cone washer.

Remove cone washer with a brass dowel, is proper procedure. I should note: I found these cone washers and hub flanges, had been glued in. I was not happy with person that used glue. It should never be done. I spend a great deal of time removing these flanges. It was first and only time I used heat and penetrating oil to aid in removing cone washers and hub flange. The videos is only last few minutes. But even as much as I pounded on the studs, only my brass dowel took a beating, not the studs.
Cone washer removal.


Hammer marks damaged on face of hub flange. Was likely due to driving axle out with steel hammer by someone, due to axle splines expanding at end where snap ring pound the splines. If I find this condition, I'll lightly file the raised splines, until axle slide through hub flange.

The below picture are just mild examples. I've seen some you would not believe how damaged. Just couldn't find any pictures of them.
I really wish shop would stop pounding on these, and get a brass dowel and use it on studs only.

I can often flat file the hub flange and wheel hub to get mating surface flat again, after they been pound on needlessly.

As damage stacks up and cone washer seats becomes oval shape, I just slap new hub flanges on and be done with it. What a needless waste.

 

[2001LC]

Cone washers & nuts, snap ring and grease cap.

6 Cone washers & nuts for each HF.

First the nuts are not consider reusable. But I reuse them most times, as does any shop I've seen parts list from many wheel bearing jobs. I've never seen new on and 100 series. I keep a set of new OEM in stock. I bought thinking perhaps they're locking or pre-coated, they're not. But they do get stretched, which loosen them. I've only seen one set to loose to reuse. It's on my 350K miles 00LX. It's had many wheel bearing services. If loose fit I replace, if not I use a dab of thread locker and call it a day.

Cone washers get damaged and scored. Does this effect function, perhaps. The ridge made in score cone washer, may hang up while torque down the cone washer nuts. This may yield and uneven torque is one thought. It would very likely effect centering of hub. Regardless I replace if I find them damage by hammer marks, chiseling marks, scoring. When replacing hub flange, I also like replacing cone washer to match new to new.

Snap ring is non reusable part. Snap ring needs gap between it and hub flange checked every time and set to less than 0.2mm.
Can we reuse in a pinch, yes. But must pass very rigorous test.

1) Snap ring must fit tight around axle in the groove. If loose we get less surface area too hold in axle. Snap ring is expanding to install, opening up the snap ring/increasing it diameter. Then we expand again to remove, further spreading it. Then if reuse we do it again, it's now fits loosely around the axle, which we do not want. If ones was just recently put on and in excellent condition. We can compress diameter to fit snugly, in a field repair.But not a great idea!

2) Test it must pass. It must have perfect edges and they need to be sharp. Snap ring on a marginal axle or run too loose, and edges get round or deformed. Do not use these. You can install for a few miles to settle grease in back on brass bushing. Until a new snap ring can be installed. But do not leave it on long. That $2 part can damage groove the $500 axle (front drive shaft).

Gap must be set at less than 0.20mm. I get as tight as I can using the thickest snap ring I can get in. I'm happiest when my gap is so tight, it can't be measure.

Here's a snap ring that was loose around the axle from reuse. This was a factory installed 2.2mm that had been reused and gap never set. The gap always increase from factory new set up. I always must go up at least one size to a 2.4mm thickness. Anytime I find a 2.2mm I know gap was not set and it's like the original snap ring. At 150K miles it should be on it's 5th new snap ring.

Notice how the impression from axle splines are barley catching snap ring. That is very a loose snap ring. Cut into axle easy as only catch outer tip of splines/teeth of axle. Resulting in less surface area of axle used, which for sure doesn't have as much holding power. It took a pound because gap was so large. Wide gap allows axle to move in and out past design limits. This pound on snap ring and axle. Result is snap ring axle and damage. This will pop off, sooner or later.

This is score on inner side as was the hub flange face. Again this happens from wide gap.

I use 2.4mm & 2.6mm the most often. I've never used thinner, even when replacing FDS, wheel bearings & traces, hub flange and axle brass bushing with a good steering knuckle spindle.. Don't waste your money buying thinner than 2.2mm.

Cone washer 42323-60030 WASHER, CONE

Snap ring 1.8 G 90520-31010 RING, SNAP

Snap ring 2.0 F 90520-31009 RING, SNAP

Snap ring 2.2 E 90520-31008 RING,

Snap ring 2.4 D 90520-31007 Snap ring hub flange 2.4mm D is has been most used.

Snap ring 2.6 C 90520-31006 RING, SNAP using more and more these days.

Snap ring 2.8 B 90520-31005 RING, SNAP Need 1 in 20 wheel bearing service.

Grease cap is also consider non reusable.

I reuse grease cap, if the open end is in like new condition. First and foremost, we want a water tight seal. If loose or seal end damage, it will not likely make a water tight seal. I use large channel-locks to remove grease cap. I do not pinch/grab in the area that seals on hub flange, any more than I must. Pinching all the way in, at back nearest hub flange, makes more difficult to remove it and can distort cap. I often find where some has placed a chisel between HF and grease cap to chisel off, they damage both all too often.

 

[2001LC]

Now that wheel hub parts are reconditioned, cleaned and inspected. Lets get back to job of assembly.

Finish getting steering knuckle read by installing dust cover, gasket and oil seal with 4 bolts.

Since steering knuckle service was done. We need to install brake dust shield, gasket and large seal that keep dust and large debris out of back oil seal in back wheel hub and away from ABS Wheel speed sensor. This seal is rarely replaced nor is brake shield. But seal and shield need inspecting. The seal my have damage, which I see 1 in 10, on the lip of seal rubber. Brake shield are often very rusty on the one side that butts to steering knuckle and sometimes they're bent. Replace damaged seals and either recondition or replace dust shield if needed. Replacing these is typically a once in a lifetime deal, if greased. The area has a drain canal in the bottom of knuckle. So apparently seal is not to keep water out in water crossing. So if marginal and you don't have parts, just replace next wheel bearing service, rather than hold up job.

Earlier in this thread, I showed rough reconditioning of steering knuckles face, where dust shield butts to.
Now I'll smear grease on that area, like a marine grease or one like red-tacky are good choices on all bare metal. Some of these greases have rust inhibitors and they don't wash out. I wiped grease on both side of dust cover and gasket. This way I'll not have rust to deal with in future.


Packing grease in wheel bearings and wheel hub cavity is next.

I pack bearings, old school, by hand. Just takes a few minutes and is kind of fun! There are many tool on the market, for pressing grease in. They don't do a better job, just faster. Faster if you don't consider, setting up and cleaning of tool.

Sorry for poor camera angle.

Once hub cavity and large bearing packed with grease and place into large race, I tap in the wheel hub oil seal. Wood, rubber or plastic hammer work well, so I don't damage area or seal. Seal seats with flat side out, and is seated when level with hub. I've seen a few now with seal in backwards, which has a metal lip protruding which is very bad think to do. Make sure seal looks flat, just like this when done. Notice you can see hub cavity is pack with grease. Now we can flip wheel hub and place small bearing in race. Then it will be ready for install onto spindle of steering knuckle. If using a piece of wood to seat seal, i make sure it's clean and doesn't contaminate bearing grease. To keep clean, just place placed bag seal came in over seal, than pound on. I tap around seal form side to side, until flush to make sure seated. It is a very easy seal to seal. I mostly just tape down with rubber mallet these days.

Making sure enough grease is packed the hub cavity is next. I take care, to not get any air pockets in the hub as I pack with grease. The goal, is when completely assembled. Is to have enough grease in hub, so centrifugal force, forces grease into bearings from hub cavity. But with a little air gap room, so grease is not so packed, it's completely full with no room for air gap. A little air gap/space helps with cooling. But better to much than to little. If not enough grease in hub cavity. Grease can be forced out of bearings, running them dry and burn up the bearings. This one could use a little more grease in cavity. May even add more after small bearing place in race.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

I’m amazed that you’ve seen more than one hub oil seal installed backwards. Wonder if they were DIY or shop/dealer blunders?

Related question: Do you grease the ABS ring or keep it sparkling clean prior to putting hub back on spindle?

 

[2001LC]

I’m amazed that you’ve seen more than one hub oil seal installed backwards. Wonder if they were DIY or shop/dealer blunders?

Related question: Do you grease the ABS ring or keep it sparkling clean prior to putting hub back on spindle?

Seal in backward: Actually both. One was a DIY first timer. Another most recent was a Toyota specialty shop.


I've grease on my fingers and start wiping everywhere. One spot is on on smooth band just behind ABS "ring" which is where the large seal rides/seats. In doing so I get grease on ABS ring and just leave it or wipe some away. ABS has never given me any issues doing this. It will just spin off and leave a thin film behind.

Putting seal in backward is a very bad thing. It may seal okay IDK. But the steel protrusion keeps wheel hub from seating all the way back on spindle. The wheel hub rides on steel of seal at the back of spindle. This makes bearing falsely feel tight and snap ring gap very thin. Above noted; both had very thin snap rings. I doubt breakaway preload was set. But regardless, would have been actually very loose wheel bearings. Second thing that happens is metal grind off. The metal filings may affect ABS sensor. They may also get into bearings, if seal not good. In above cases, I was concerned metal files got in bearings. So I end up cleaning and redoing the job.

Seal in backward: DO NOT do this.

 

[2001LC]

I'll repeat. Do not mix bearing from one side to the other. Bearing go back in race (side) they came out of.
I shoot for 12.5lb wheel bearing preload in stock, higher with lift, oversize tires, wheel spacers.
Preload spec, range is 9.5-15LB of pull.


Once adjusting nut set to get my target preload. I place lock wash on then lock nut. After torquing lock nut to 47ft-lbf. I recheck preload. It does go up sometimes. If preload still at or near target and not over 15LB preload on spring scale. I now lock lock washer. I bent one tab over adjusting nut and one tab over lock nut.
I find the lock washer not bend to lock (mistake), bent all forward (incompetent) or used tabs re-bent (risky) about 30% of time.

Next is hub flange gasket, hub flange, cone washers, washers, clean thread of w/ de-greaser, thread-locker, nuts torque to 24ft-lbf

 

[2001LC]

Snap ring.

It is the most overlooked in a wheel bearing job, behind setting wheel bearing preload. But is so import to the health of Front Drive Shaft axle and hub flange. If gap to wide (over spec of 0.20mm) and wheel bearing loose. It's like a power saw, and eats hub flange and axle splines/teeth fast.

I like snap ring gap very snug. Best practice is to replace every-time removed with new, and with proper thickens to get a gap of less than 0.20mm gap.



I just grab tools form shop and pulled axle to settle grease in back at the brass bushing. This is to get a true and tight gap reading. I made this with tools lying around the garage in 2 minutes. Some have made a very nice and small tool that fits in your pocket.

You can just put a snap ring on and drive to settle grease. Then come back and set the gap. I've bottle jack under LCA to get CV's and axles of front drive shafts in a line. This is so the axle isn't pulling in fighting me as I pull out bolt and vise grips. Then check gap. I suppose this could be done with tire on and on the ground. I've not but don't see why not.

A number of guys on mud have built a very nice tool to pull axle. Search and you see pictures. It's a 6" bar with three bolt running through it.

 

[neilsen100]

@2001LC As many others have said, thank you for your posts, the diligence of photos and videos, and generosity of sharing your experience. I work only on my own 100, but find so much value in your experience across multiple trucks.

 

[nitteo]

@2001LC what is the advantage if any on using the slee spindle grease tool?

 

[2001LC]

@2001LC As many others have said, thank you for your posts, the diligence of photos and videos, and generosity of sharing your experience. I work only on my own 100, but find so much value in your experience across multiple trucks.

You're more than welcome and thank you for saying so.

@2001LC what is the advantage if any on using the slee spindle grease tool?

Slee tool works great. Effectively lubes axle bearing bushing without need to separated axle from Steering knuckle.
After I've done a knuckle service along with cleaning and inspecting axle bearings & bushing, thereafter each service I use it.
When using it:
One must be careful no contaminates on axle or in spindle. Or they're forced in bearing & bushing.
Do not pump in to much grease with the Slee tool, or it can be very difficult to re-seat front drive shaft.

 

[2001LC]

Boot clamp, DS front drive shaft inner small.

Found DS boot weep between axle and boot. Very common.
I'd re clamped PS 15K ago.

Now doing DS. I use a NAPA boot small clamp.
After cleaning, OEM clamp is removed.

Boot slipped out of grooved seating area to wipe clean. Any debris here and may will leak again

Install new clamp. The catch ends stick up once clamp pinched tight. So I like to tap it down flush with clamp. I also like to orient clamp so forward rotor while driving down the road has the end facing back, streamlining so it's not catching weeds as it rotates.
These clamps need reinspecting from time to time. If found weeping a squeeze a little tighter.

 

[2001LC]

Transmission flush of full 12qt.

We use a little more than 12qts, typically around 13 to 14qts due to a waste from draining and over pumping a little to much out.
Transmission fluid is set with fluid at specific temperature. The FSM gives a way to jump the system to get flashing light on dash signalling we're in temp range. Forget it. It will leave transmission fluid low. So we need to be able to read fluid temp in transmission. Some use an IR temp gun to read pan. I've found this is not accurate reading 3 to 7 F low. To many factors effect the reading of temp with a gun shot on the pan. Best is to read temps directly in the trans through tech stream.

Toyota T-SB-0129-08 2008 USA

I'll measure what comes out. The FSM tells use a pan drain yields 1.8 qts US. Wrong!.

How much ATF from pan drain I get, depends on how long I allow to drain. Just a quick drain of 5 minutes I'll get ~2.4 qts.

We replace crush washers/gaskets of drain & check plugs, and just reuse O-ring of fill plug

About the only help we get from FSM is locations of and torques of drain & check plugs 15ft-lbf and fill plug 29ft-lbf.
Frankly I feel 29ft-lbf is a bit high a torque for fill plug with a rubber O-ring. So I like snugging down firmly, then watch for weeps. If I see weeps next time I'm under doing work like lubing properer shaft, I'll snug some more.

 

[2001LC]

I start by draining pan. Rather than draining into my typical waste catch can. I use a container I can then measure amount that came out. Then I reinstall the drain plug with new crush washer and torque to 15ft-lbf. I do this ideally with engine and trans warmed up. But I do not want exhaust hot. DS CAT and exhaust pipe are only inch from fill plug. To hot and I'll get burned and or my clear fill tube will.

Then I pull fill plug and run my fill hose to it from engine bay.
Stock photo from file

Stock photo from file. I use glass jar to catch a little from first drains to inspect. Some will filter fluid then inspect filter.

Stock photo from file

I then hook up a tube, to return line near PS radiator in engine bay top side. This I run to a catch can.

 

[2001LC]

I use a 2 gallon can. This will not hold all I need for flush. But forces me to dump and then restart after dumping catch can. This helps me too not drain off to much and makes keeping track of what comes out easier.

We drained pan first, so we can add fresh for pick up screen & tube of transmission to start sucking new fluid.

I now add 1 more qt than I drained from pan through my fill hose. I overfill pan, so I can now pump out about as much or less from trans return cooler line, as I first drained from pan.
I do not want to run pan dry as I'm running engine to pump out ATF fluid. Better to overfill and drain less as I go, than suck air.

I do add fluid, as engine idling, but it comes out faster than I can fill. With the VVt engine, as they idle very high, when engine cool or cold. So I like working with a warm engine. But remember the exhaust gets hot. So I don't start hot, and by time I'm ready to flush it's cooled, so much, idle will be high.

I'm constantly watching my catch can and running to turn off engine. Helper here is nice, but can be done without. My fill hose ID is a little small, so I'm going to pick up ~7' of a lager ID. I like it to not fit too tight in 18mm fill hole, but IDs Large as possible.

As I run engine and fill at same time and with engine off. I watch very closely how much pumps out, and keep adding same or more new WS fluid.
Most of fluid is added with engine off, due to it pumping out so fast and in through my fill hose so slowly. So I must fill with engine off just to keep up. PITA and slow.

You can see difference in color of old and new in hoses as we start the flush. When done, both hoses will carry near the same lite red color. A little staining in the return drain hose and some mixing as we don't get 100% each flush. So not uncommon to see return drain hose color a little darker. This old fluid look good. Dark but not overly so and no bad smell.

Once a little more than ~12 qts out, and about same plus 1/4 to 1/2 qt more poured in than we took out. We're done with the flush.

We now need to set the level. The vehicle also must be level. For this we do want to start with transmission slightly overfilled by 1/4 to 1/2 qt., which makes the job much easier and faster. This is where being supper accurate on how much out and in, really pays off. If under filled, more will need to be added with a hot exhaust or wait one hour or more. Trust me! Wait to add if more is need.

 

[2001LC]

Setting Transmission fluid level.

This is done on level ground.

Remember Toyota lowered the temp in that TSB for setting level. So we actually add more than came in transmission from factory. So if this was a first flush, we need more than came out by extra 1/4 qt to be overfilled as we start the procedure. This also bring into question the use of any fluid other than Toyota WS ATF in 2004-up. A full synthetic ATF fluid, different brands, etc. may react to heat differently. If they expand more or less than Toyota WS ATF, seems to me, level would not be the same as we're shooting at various temp range as we drive. So, I just stick with Toyota WS ATF. I don't think how a given AFT will react to heat expansion is all that big a deal. But then we've also; w"hat is this WS AFT Toyota seems so proud of"? The bottle from Toyota states Exxon, which most Toyota fluids states or did in old bottling. Mobil 1 is Exxon. But Exxon Mobil does not sell as full synthetic WS ATF approved for Toyota in the USA. They do overseas! Hummmm! It's my understanding Toyota WS AFT is a synthetic blend. I prefer 100% synthetic, but lack the gut's to try.

To monitor temperature in transmission, I use tech stream. It gives 2 A/T Oil Temperatures, 1 & 2. What I "think" IDK, is temp 1 is after returned from cooler. This temp will lag temp 2. Temp 2 moves faster up and down, and I always see higher. Let transmission rest at idle and the come to same temp or 2 slight higher generally.

Checking level:
So with all plugs in transmission, return hose reconnected. New WS Fluid overfilled by 1/4 to 1/2 gt. I start the engine. Once warmed up and idle down to ~650 RPM and trans A/T temp starting to raise. I hold brake pedal down hard and shift into "D" and bring up RPM to ~1,500 RPM, loading the transmission. This bring up temperature ATF fluid in transmission. Once both temps above 97F I let idle. I then shift through all gears, pause in each.

Once temp #1 is hitting 97F and #2 about the same but no less. I jump out with engine idling, trans in "P", wheels chocked and park brake set for safety.

I pull "check" plug out of transmission pan and place a new crush washer on it.

If I've overfilled transmission, fluid will run out open check plug hole at this time. This is what I want.
Once it starts just dripping out. I replace check plug. Transmission level is now set to max recommended.

Just as a check, I do, I now take both #1&2 temp to above 115F, then idle, shift through all gears pausing again. Then pull check plug again, as temp at #1 115F or a little below, and temp #2 115F. This time as I pull check plug, I reinsert as soon I see that fluid does flow out. I'm not wanting to drain any, it's just a check. It tells me I did my job, I did not have any or appreciable air pockets and that level is set at no less than minimum recommended level. If I allowed to drain until just dripping again, at this higher temp of 115F. I'd then be setting transmission at lowest level recommended. I like them set to highest level with WS ATF. I now torque check plug to 15ft-lbf with its new crush washer.

Test drive, check shift, for leaks and done!

 

[2001LC]

Replacing transmission out cooler hoses and clamps.

I missed posting this earlier, so this post is out of order I worked in. I did this before flushing transmission. If radiator replaced, a ATF transmission leak or any transmission line/hose replaced. We need to top transmission. So do any of those before flushing, saves time.

Here is what the pre radiator cooler looks like, removed from lower plastic housing of radiator. It came from my 00LX w/350K mile radiator, I replace earlier this years.

Pre ATF cooler not from this 06. Just shows what it looks like. Notice the hose nipples (not seen here) have been removed from threaded holes in cooler. Those threads are a leak point we need to check now and then.

Anyway; I found someone replace this cooler hose with a aftermarket by the foot fuel hose and screw clamps. The hose was likely out of it's retaining bracket and that is likely what prompted it's replacement the last time. The hose needs to be retained, or it flops around. This flopping around will loosen the pre cooler radiator nipple fitting that thread into cool. It can also damage to hose. We then end up with a transmission leak. This leak got all over the DS steering rack bushing causing it to age much faster then it would have if keep dry.

Not a good idea to use fuel hose or screw clamps. They have transmission cooler hose by foot and fuel line clamps which is okay, but OEM best. So I R&R the fuel hose and clamps, installing OEM AFT hose and clamps..

That band of screw clamps bit into hose.

OEM hose and OEM clamps are best.

I keep old cap that come with new radiators to protect hose fittings nipples. The plugs for hose are just old office chair caster pins. I use when every I remove cooler hose from radiator. Reduce loss and mess of ATF ....

 

[2001LC]

Here is out cooler hose before cleanup up and replacing for those unclear on location.

Bracket that holds the out bound cooler hose in newer models.

It's bottom of radiator DS.

Here's new OEM clamp and hose. New OEM clamps are so sweet. They place a retainer clip on the end of clamp to keep open. You just slip clamp in place on the installed hose and pull the retainer clip.

Less likely to leak, last longer and looks better. SWEET!

 

[2001LC]

Leaks;

We had all but two leaks identified and stopped.

One is at the transfer case to adapter seam. After repeatedly cleaning and watching closely, it has been pinpointed. Trick is to catch first appearance of any leak.

In adapter case, it can be either ATF or gear lube. It felt thick to me and looks (below in picture) like gear lube. But we just can quite smell that pungent gear lube odor. Letting it build up and soaking up with a cotton ball. Then placing cotton ball in a small sealed jar. May then allow us to get the scent from jar. Also if cotton ball doesn't turn at least a little red it's not likely AFT.

Assuming gear lube this would likely be the input shaft seal. Big job to replace that seal.

But first we've some easy inexpensive option to give a try.

1. Make sure transfer case breather clear, breathing and vehicle level.
2. Drain old gear lube install drain plug, then add 1.9 oz. of AT-205 reseal to transfer and then 1.4 qts 75W-90 M1 synthetic gear lube. Let stand 15 minutes and re-top until it re-flows out fill hole. We could just add AT-205 and not flush the old gear lube. But only way to know for sure what is in there is to fill our self. Replacing drain and fill gaskets/washers and torque plugs to 27ft-lbf
3. Wait and watch. AT-205 takes 5 hour total driving time to work. But the adapt case will have to drain itself of all that has leaked into it. So may take some time until no more gear lube is seen leaking from the seam where cases are joined. Re clean after 10 to 20 hours of drive time and watch closely or cleaning a few time every 5 hours or so may be best..

Other leak is in front of engine from weep hole area.

Here's weep hole area at 171,662 miles, 4 day and 242 miles after a INDY Toy specialty shop did a timing belt job replacing all three seals (crank & cam) according to invoice.

I cleaned the area, than about 15K miles later, it looked like this.