Build Katit's LX470 2001 restoration/maintenance thread

[katit]

I've spoken with Christo on this adjust the AHC pressure. He thinks it's a waste. He said, go drive around the block it will change. He's right it will change, temp will change it as will load..

There is some truth, but I did that and after truck parked running for a few minutes - pressures stabilize, at least in my experience with my truck.

What I'm after is a ride that isn't bonce and has noticeably change from sport to comfort . With enough rake to keep steering from wondering. And to this end have as little pressure as possible on AHC, to length the life of globs. A little tweaking of sensor isn't going to hurt anything. They are adjustable for a reason.

Makes sense. And I'm taking my words on "globes didn't make noticeable difference" back. Just came back from fishing trip and I can say that truck just "fly" over road imperfections. Very smooth ride. Switching to sport adds some vibrations which I think front wheels/CV related. And gets rougher. I like normal or comfort settings.

 

[katit]

Don't do $50 mistake I did!!

Removing shift knob is tricky. I guess it's somewhere on this forum, but I thought I will figure it out. Nope.

0. Console removed
1. Remove 2 screws on back (those on threadlocker)
2. Remove button, just pull out. BIG one.
3. Then the only thing holding shifter is OD wire going through stalk.
4. Disconnect and unclip white connector on side (picture)
5. On connector itself right in a body pull white strip, should unlock contacts
6. Using small screwdriver remove to biggest contacts (blue wire)
7. Pull shifter knob and this wire out.

I though I will take apart OD button and then remove contacts. Wrong and I broke housing. So, I learned lesson and you know how to remove shifter

 

[boobird]

Some little things to make truck a little newer

View attachment 2116552

Is this cup holder available as OEM part?

 

[katit]

Is this cup holder available as OEM part?

Don't know, for non-critical stuff like this I prefer to pay $20 shipped from eBay

 

[katit]

I am really upset and confused now. I still have that oil leak from bottom TB cover. It's not dripping. But after 400 miles it shows and I don't like it. I replace main seal as part of TB and I thought it was it. So, I bought new seal and got it apart again. Just to see that seal is bone dry. Unfortunately I got some coolant on cover so pictures don't show exactly where oil is. I circled in red areas where I see smallest traces of oil.

 

[katit]

So, my question now WHAT is leaking. Hole to mount lower cover has oil in it, is it through hole?? Hope not.
Other than that - I can't see it being anywhere else. Seal is squeaky clean. Oil concentration is at a bottom of cover. I wonder if it' pump or oil pan leaking. And I wonder what kind of project is that to fix it..

 

[2001LC]

I'VE ONE I SEND BACK TO SHOP THAT DID t-BELT JOB. They saying oil pan, and they've never seen that. I'm doubting. They sent a text picture (out of focus) of dry weep hole and drip on pan bolt. I cleaned it before, and rechecked before I sent to the shop. It was wet at weep hole and not on the bolt, two times.

If crank seal leaking. You should have got a bit on finger, by running finger around it (pre any cleaning). You should oil see oil trial to weep hole.

I do not see an oil pan leak. The way you check is cleaning spotless, I mean spotless. Then watch as you drive it. Catch leak as it just start to be visible.

Some use a UV trace dye, I've not tried that.

Why your timing cover bolt holes has oil in it IDK, it should not. These t-cover bolts, do not need sealing. The spec torque is like 53inch-lbf IIRC. You can not bust the oil pump housing at that torque of belt cover bolts. The bolts are small and cover has insert that keeps them from driving into holes to far also to breaker the housing.

I can't see where oil filter housing, where connect to oil pump, oil cooler and bracket either, which they do leak sometimes. Most off if ever removed. I di see oily around area and on crank sensor. This looks like old and not cleaned well. So can't make much of that here today. It needs cleaning up.

Other leak spot is the 10mm bolt threads that holds on the tensioner pulley assembly. I see you have some blue sealer there. Best practice Toyota FIPG 103 or it's newer sub. Toyota has the best FIPG. Ford and GM shops buy from them. You've a lot of blue sealer showing under washer. You should not see any sealer. It is only applied to threads. I'm not say that's your weep. It may or may not be. It's just and observation.

When I replace any seal, I clean all surfaces spotless so seal has best chance of seating nicely. I also lube both side and socket it seats in. I see more leaks after a timing belt job when crank and cam seals R&R, than if just left alone. Me, I don't touch those as "a while your in there", unless they are leaking.

 

[katit]

I do not see an oil pan leak. The way you check is cleaning spotless, I mean spotless. Then watch as you drive it. Catch leak as it just start to be visible.

Some use a UV trace dye, I've not tried that.

I see more leaks after a timing belt job when crank and cam seals R&R, than if just left alone. Me, I don't touch those as "a while your in there", unless they are leaking.

It was leaking, pics here:

Build - Katit's LX470 2001 restoration/maintenance thread

For the a/c drain line, i'm going to install this: 100/120-Series AC Drain Extension Kit — CRUISER GARAGE i saw it on another thread. My truck came from the North, so it's a bit rusty, but the sway bar bracket is rotting as a result of the usual rust in addition to the constant dripping over...

forum.ih8mud.com

I cleaned all spotless (not sensor though) before reassembly.

I am going to use little FIPG on outer surface of seal, just a little to allow "by hand" installation. But right now it doesn't look like oil leaking out of seal.

Oh well, will clean ALL spotless again, replace seal and put it back together. Then observe. It is not leaking from where you see blue sealant. And having little too much there for sure not hurting anything.

It's not very bad, like I said I see it on cover only after 500 miles. But if it won't go away I may just do "big project" next time. I do need to rebuild front suspension, rack, etc - so all will be open

 

[2001LC]

I does look like in your pic's of original T-belt job the crank seal may be weeping. But may be from higher up or both. If these seals weep often you'd find rear main weep also. AT-205 would be my first go to in that case. What happens is, seal dry out. Even faster from poor oil changes interval using Dino. Which gunk up engines and can coat seals clogging them. Toss a pour operating PCV system in the mix, from old hoses and clogged PCV valve. Then put in some nice synthetic oil which cleans the seal of gunk. We get weeps or leaks. Plasticize leaches out of seals and they shrink and dry over time. AT-205 will replace this. If seals are not damage, it's very effective.

The oil pump cover looks okay, expect where oil pump to oil galley rubber O-ring sets. But I can't tell if its a leak or coolant mess from disassembly. That is a high pressure oil point with O-ring.

Wet! But is it coolant or oil

Oil move around by gravity, air movement and capillary action. Were air movement may push oil up from crank seal and 4" from capillary action. Notice oily stain is in a narrow band between crank seal and oil pump O-ring. On DS it follows a ridge.

The new crank seal looks good and flush. I can't see a leak, which should unless you wiped it.

Blurry pic so hard to say. But this spot does not look like fresh 500 mile oil. Regardless, whatever is, it does not look like at seal point between seal and crank. Looks to be in a ridge in casting of seal. A properly installed seal is lubed, or some call it primed. That may just be some priming oil or grease. May be crud form hand or seal tool..

Oil on timing cover inner grooves is strange. You sure that not coolant.

Here's Oil pump to galley O-ring. It can benefit with AT-205.

BTW: Never use HM (High Mileage) oil or petroleum based stop leaks. Mobil 1 tells me: if you do for 2 oil changes. "You must continuing using for life for life of engine". It will make every seal leak if not.

 

[gatormark91]

I does look like in your pic's of original T-belt job the crank seal may be weeping. But may be from higher up or both. If these seals weep often you'd find rear main weep also. AT-205 would be my first go to in that case. What happens is, seal dry out. Even faster from poor oil changes interval using Dino. Which gunk up engines and can coat seals clogging them. Toss a pour operating PCV system in the mix, from old hoses and clogged PCV valve. Then put in some nice synthetic oil which cleans the seal of gunk. We get weeps or leaks. Plasticize leaches out of seals and they shrink and dry over time. AT-205 will replace this. If seals are not damage, it's very effective.

The oil pump cover looks okay, expect where oil pump to oil galley rubber O-ring sets. But I can't tell if its a leak or coolant mess from disassembly. That is a high pressure oil point with O-ring.
View attachment 2121895
Wet! But is it coolant or oil
View attachment 2121933
Oil move around by gravity, air movement and capillary action. Were air movement may push oil up from crank seal and 4" from capillary action. Notice oily stain is in a narrow band between crank seal and oil pump O-ring. On DS it follows a ridge.

View attachment 2121932


The new crank seal looks good and flush. I can't see a leak, which should unless you wiped it.

Blurry pic so hard to say. But this spot does not look like fresh 500 mile oil. Regardless, whatever is, it does not look like at seal point between seal and crank. Looks to be in a ridge in casting of seal. A properly installed seal is lubed, or some call it primed. That may just be some priming oil or grease. May be crud form hand or seal tool..
View attachment 2121934

Oil on timing cover inner grooves is strange. You sure that not coolant.

Here's Oil pump to galley O-ring. It can benefit with AT-205.
View attachment 2121939


BTW: Never use HM (High Mileage) oil or petroleum based stop leaks. Mobil 1 tells me: if you do for 2 oil changes. "You must continuing using for life for life of engine". It will make every seal leak if not.

Good point in there - check your PCV valve. A pressurized crankcase will make a small leak worse. Also- OEM only for the crank seal. Wasn't happy with the one I got from a major aftermarket supplier, decided to wait for Toyota part in the mail.

 

[katit]

New pcv, grommet and hoses.
all OEM as seal

 

[katit]

The new crank seal looks good and flush. I can't see a leak, which should unless you wiped it.

Blurry pic so hard to say. But this spot does not look like fresh 500 mile oil. Regardless, whatever is, it does not look like at seal point between seal and crank. Looks to be in a ridge in casting of seal. A properly installed seal is lubed, or some call it primed. That may just be some priming oil or grease. May be crud form hand or seal tool.

Oil on timing cover inner grooves is strange. You sure that not coolant.

New oil seal was installed like that. Lubed crankshaft, lubed seal inner race and then installed. No lube on outer race and dry case.

And yes, I didn't clean it. If I move finder around seal not even hint of oil. What strange is that if you look at pre-re-placement picture - seal itself was pretty clean/dry as well. That got me confused, but I was told it's cappilary action, etc. But seal WAS clean.

That tiny spec of oil in a seal "fold" also look very strange, I noticed it myself after I took pictures (pictures here little bit smaller than originals I have). It IS oil. But hard to tell now if it was from when I was lubing it for installation..

Again, right now if I move finger around seal. And on a cover around seal - NO traces of oil on my finger. It seems extrmely oily between pump and upper pan. And, when all buttoned up - it shows in a weep hole.

 

[2001LC]

I'm really hoping you don't have a pan leak.

As I said, crank seal looks good. It's seated perfect from what I can see. I do feel it's better to clean, then lube with oil or grease the "race" that seal is seated in, helps keep from binding. We do same with differential side seals. I'd also oil or grease lip of sealing surface and or crank.

You may want to check your oil filter/cooler bracket also. Here's one leaking bad. Many of them weep with age.

Here a shots of area.

The crank sensor is at upper left of picture, just to the right is seam of oil filter bracket to oil pump seal area. Now look near bottom of seam. See the oil on bolt and then pan bolt below that. The black on pan is FIPG 103, I resealed pan. Pan FIPG from factory is gray.

Clean engine right! To do like then clean.
Here's spot with engine running. Oil Gusher yikes

Leak was my fault, seal slipped during install. I now use assemble lube to hold them in place.

This is one of two seal in oil filter/cooler assembly

 

[katit]

I'm really hoping you don't have a pan leak.

This is one of two seal in oil filter/cooler assembly

how is access there? I was going to replace those 2 seals along with water hose that goes from cooler to block but decided not to because of accessibility. Maybe when rack will be addressed

I don’t know. At this point I am thinking I won’t touch seal. Just clean as much as I can and reassemble. If it’s not seal it’s got to be pan. And if so - I won’t deal with it right now as I want truck to be running for hunting season.

 

[2001LC]

Accesses is easy to oil filter bracket, much easier than everyone thinks.. That water hose in back is difficult, because it's rubber is now hard like a rock. It easier to get at hose with DS front drive shaft out. A hose clamp tool would be very nice to have for that difficult to reach hose clamp. You can leave hose attached to cooler and just let cooler hang there. But if hose disturb best to replace. I've yet to see that water hose leak. So not really a big deal.

I don't touch any seal I don't have to. Toyota has very good seals.

 

[gatormark91]

Accesses is easy to oil filter bracket, much easy than everyone thinks.. That water hose in back is difficult, because it's rubber is now hard like a rock. It easier to get at hose with DS front drive shaft out. A hose clamp tool would be very nice to have for that difficult to reach hose clamp. You can leave hose attached to cooler and just let cooler hang there. But if hose disturb best to replace. I've yet to see that water hose leak. So not really a big deal.

I don't touch any seal I don't have to. Toyota has very good seals.

A lot of folks and shops will try to reuse the oil filter housing gasket when they remove the housing to get the steering rack out. It will start leaking after that.

 

[2001LC]

That is a common practice. But no need to pull filter bracket to get rack out.

 

[katit]

Got truck back together. Replaced seal again. Cleaned all very well. Will monitor.

Live hack: Don't buy expensive bulbs. There is a lot of them in all switches around console. Get packs of 10/20 from eBay regular 12v bulbs in 4mm and 3mm sizes. You can find them by searching "mini bulb" "grain bulb", etc

Factory bulbs can be easy taken apart to reuse socket. Picture shows center console AC bulb. New one slightly bigger, I had to drill out socket just a little so it fits.

 

[katit]

Finally replaced PRNDL panel. That makes interior look 20 years younger

Still need couple bulbs for heater controls, but I got light, I got non-peeling plate. Interior-wise I'm almost done. Only front seat leather and steering wheel remaining, everything else looks great.

 

[katit]

Got cheap ball joint boot. I will be taking care of all that in a future, but didn't want to drive with torn boot meanwhile. One hour job, but satisfying Of course it was loose. But there is no play, so not dangerous.

I am curious WHY they took it off (to replace CV axle?) and WHO did it in a way to damage boot and ball joint? For me it came out with couple whack in front and on side in dedicated spots. If it wouldn't - I have BMW ball joint tool which would work just fine in this spot.