Series 80 Engine 1FZFE - What Type of Brake Fluid do you Use, any Hack? (1 Viewer)

[PanchoLedezma]

Hi guys,

I was wondering if any of you have experimented with the brake fluids, Dot 1 Dot 5, etc...

What to expect of the different brake fluids?

Thanks for your Insight

 

[goranvolvo]

definitely not DOT 5 any DOT 3 or 4 will work DOT 4 has higher boiling temp vs DOT 3
dot 5 is silicone-based an you have glycol-based system

 

[BILT4ME]

DOT5 will leak out of places that your stock DOT3 brakes were designed with. You would also need to do a complete flush and clean on brake lines to make sure you avoided the contamination.

 

[Landseer]

DOT 3, DOT 4, and DOT 5.1 will all work, DOT 5 will NOT work. 5.1 is super expensive and really only needed on cars that will be driven hard on a track. 4 is slightly better than 3 (higher boiling point) and slightly more expensive. I use DOT 4. Over time the fluid absorbs water which lowers its boiling point and makes it acidic. Switching out the brake fluid (including bleeding the brakes) every couple years is more important than what fluid you use.

 

[Tools R Us]

DOT3, changed often.

 

[PanchoLedezma]

Guys, i just realized about a 2 years ago, i change my booster and my brake link, since then i had been using DOT 5 without realizing it, i check everything and all looks pretty good, i used the car for long 12 hour road trips and extensive off road, the breaks are fine i guess, no abs light etc, but i think i will drain and replace with DOT 3 just in case... what you think or we find out we can use DOT 5 i have an lx450 96

 

[gummycarbs]

Castrol Synthetic DOT 4, formerly GT LMA. I'm lucky enough to have a local shop that stocks it for $8.99 for a 32 oz bottle.

Incidentally, having a vacuum pump on hand has completely changed my brake flushing and bleeding experience. I can have the entire system flushed and bled in probably half an hour now.

 

[jonheld]

I use Amsoil DOT3/4 compatible synthetic. Changed yearly.
Brake fluid is supposed to be water clear, not coffee black.

 

[bigredmachine]

dot 3 or dot 4, dot 4 has a higher boiling point and is compatible with dot 3

 

[BILT4ME]

Guys, i just realized about a 2 years ago, i change my booster and my brake link, since then i had been using DOT 5 without realizing it, i check everything and all looks pretty good, i used the car for long 12 hour road trips and extensive off road, the breaks are fine i guess, no abs light etc, but i think i will drain and replace with DOT 3 just in case... what you think or we find out we can use DOT 5 i have an lx450 96

Make sure your FLUSH the system. You MAY need to flush with acetone or something due to the silicone based DOT5.

Good Luck. Do more Google searches on switching from DOT 3 to 5 and back.

 

[ZackR]

I use this on my vehicles, changed annually. Its easy to find locally for around $7. I'd like to second @jonheld mention that the fluid should be clear, not a dark color when in the reservoir.

 

[iptman]

Does the fluid get dark enough over that year to know when you guys have successfully swapped it out with new or do you just push through more than's feasibly in the system?

 

[ZackR]

Does the fluid get dark enough over that year to know when you guys have successfully swapped it out with new or do you just push through more than's feasibly in the system?

It gets dark enough to easily tell. When you flush the fluid through there is a obvious transition from old to new (new is clear like water).

 

[Tools R Us]

We do the turkey baster thing. Anytime it looks a little dark, suck the reservoir dry and refill. The best time to do a full change is with a pad change. When the caliper pistons are fully compressed most of the fluid is in the reservoir, suck and refill, then use the bleeders to get the last of it.

Some that we see are long term ignored, on those, suck the reservoir, remove it, wash, then flush.

 

[jonheld]

Does the fluid get dark enough over that year to know when you guys have successfully swapped it out with new or do you just push through more than's feasibly in the system?

My brake fluid typically starts to go light brown at the 9 or 10th month mark. I usually gravity bleed through the left front to clear out the master, then regular bleed through the rest of the system until it runs clear like water.
I usually need to change pads yearly, so a full brake service once a year is what she typically gets.

 

[gummycarbs]

Don't forget to cycle the ABS. There's old fluid trapped in there (probably some air, too).

Is there a way to trigger ABS actuator to combat spongy breakes?

 

[HARDGEAR]

This is great information. However mundane. This is totally safety first.
I do change out brake fluid yearly. New oem brake lines are high on the list to do, mine are original and they look good. Running dot 3 now, replaced failed master cylinder last fall.
I used to work with heavy trucks and machinery and bigger companies tend to maintain equipment very thoroughly. Know your checklists for maintenance on your personal rigs. Take your flashlight and run your fingers around seams and joints looking and feeling for flaws. Its totally worth the avoidance of big trouble. PM PM PM. Its your azz and maybe another’s after all.