- Thread starter
- #21
Thanks! Being that I rebuilt this axle about 25k ago, I'm a little surprised this is leaking right now. I'd like to figure out what happened.
Passenger Rear Wheel Leaking Brake Fluid (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter thetoyotaman
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- Thread starter
- #23
Parts ordered…
Check to see that the axle 'vent' or tube is not blocked. IF it is.....as the differential heats up, pressure will build and can force gear oil past seals.
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- #25
Does anyone know if the OEM parking brake shoes are organic or semi-metallic?
Didn't look that close when I cleaned an original set of parking brake shoes (still had 3+ mm thickness so didn't replace them), but don't recall seeing any metal bits in the OEM shoes. Bits of metal were very apparent however in a set of new OEM Toyota/Advics rear brake pads.
FWIW
FWIW
- Thread starter
- #27
When you say clean them, are you talking about brake clean spray or something more involved? The reason I ask is I saw a forum online where guys working on old vehicles like Buicks and stuff from back in the 40s would actually use some type of detergent and hot water to bake out any oils or anything out of the shoes but they never specified which detergent they were using. I’m curious what they are using and how hot you could clean the shoes before they would delaminate. I love learning these old techniques.
My parking brake shoes were not contaminated with gear oil, just a little glazing so lightly sanded them and cleaned the surface with TCE (Red can CRC) brake cleaner.
There are a dozen opinions on how to clean brake shoes/pads that have been contaminated with oil but IDK which is the "best" cleaner or method to use (if any).
OCD would force me to replace them, best guess is the by-the-book answer is to replace shoes or pads if completely soaked in gear oil.
There are a dozen opinions on how to clean brake shoes/pads that have been contaminated with oil but IDK which is the "best" cleaner or method to use (if any).
OCD would force me to replace them, best guess is the by-the-book answer is to replace shoes or pads if completely soaked in gear oil.
The new shoes I put on mine (several years ago) looked to be Organic.....as did the ones I removed. Had plenty of thickness left on the originals, but they had become oil soaked from gear lube (Axle seal leak).
Definitely a tell tale for leaking axle seal, and oil seal in the back of the hub
I also thing park brake pads are organic.
I reckon try a soak in hot water and a strong alkaline degreaser, then sand them and clean off with brake clean after they dry.
They do sweet **** all anyway
I reckon try a soak in hot water and a strong alkaline degreaser, then sand them and clean off with brake clean after they dry.
They do sweet **** all anyway
- Thread starter
- #32
Dug into it with a friend today and discovered slightly loose wheel bearing adjustment and a torn wheel bearing seal. Bearings look great. You can see on the spindle where the inner bearing rode loose. Slight groove on spindle from seal. Seems like bearings breaking in from heavy truck with 35’s.
That's a bit odd how the seal got so buggared up??
Spindle tube looks like the inner and outer bearings (inner race of each) have been spinning. Are those black marks after the tube was cleaned off with a rag/paper towel??
After cleaning the spindle tube (imaybe lightly with something like a 3M red or grey pad to remove light scuff marks) can you then take a couple more photos (in focus), but from the side to show the profile (OD) of the spindle where the inner and outer bearings normally sit?.
If the inner race of the bearings have been spinning on the tube then the tube OD could have gotten worn down a bit which could mean you may have trouble getting the bearings to hold preload, IME.
You could also take the bearings (after cleaning them up) and slide them individually onto the spindle to see if there's still a tight fit, no rocking (6-12, 9-3).
Spindle tube looks like the inner and outer bearings (inner race of each) have been spinning. Are those black marks after the tube was cleaned off with a rag/paper towel??
After cleaning the spindle tube (imaybe lightly with something like a 3M red or grey pad to remove light scuff marks) can you then take a couple more photos (in focus), but from the side to show the profile (OD) of the spindle where the inner and outer bearings normally sit?.
If the inner race of the bearings have been spinning on the tube then the tube OD could have gotten worn down a bit which could mean you may have trouble getting the bearings to hold preload, IME.
You could also take the bearings (after cleaning them up) and slide them individually onto the spindle to see if there's still a tight fit, no rocking (6-12, 9-3).
Give us a better pic of the oil seal too? From the side view a little, so not so much top view.
Something odd going on there. Looks like the torn up rubber is outside of the seal?
Any idea, did the rear hub seal look like this one below?
Or did it have a raised rubber lip on the face, ie the side that faces in to the centre of the vehicle?
Something odd going on there. Looks like the torn up rubber is outside of the seal?
Any idea, did the rear hub seal look like this one below?
Or did it have a raised rubber lip on the face, ie the side that faces in to the centre of the vehicle?
- Thread starter
- #35
Seals long gone in the trash but appears to have been installed backwards. Note to self, lock diff before removing shaft. Stupid tax you pay when not feeling the best. lol Update: Solved! RTH: Reassembling passengers side rear axle after swapping seals and bearings, but axle won't fully seat, something is blocking it - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/update-solved-rth-reassembling-passengers-side-rear-axle-after-swapping-seals-and-bearings-but-axle-wont-fully-seat-something-is-blocking-it.1184621/
- Thread starter
- #37
Worked on cleaning parts today which cleaned up far easier and better than I expected. No appearance of brake material oil saturation. All looks good. One parking brake shoe had some uneven wear. Not sure what would cause that. Also, if anyone knows the speedi sleeve part number for the spindle where the wheel bearing seal rides, please post,
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Inner or Outer bearing (rear spindle)?
One old timer's trick to consider: if the spindle tube is worn you can "stake" the low area with multiple hits using a hardened punch. Been discussed before but basically each hit raises a small rim of metal, after a few dozen small hits you've essentially increased the OD of the spindle tube. If you go too far and the bearing won't fit take Emery cloth and sand it back down.
IDK what the optimum number of hits are, I've just put them where the spindles is worn and where the bearing sits, IME mostly between 3 and 9 O'clock (bottom side)
If you're using the old bearing to test the spindle, that bearing also may be opened up a bit (ID of the inner race).
Or, call these guys:
One old timer's trick to consider: if the spindle tube is worn you can "stake" the low area with multiple hits using a hardened punch. Been discussed before but basically each hit raises a small rim of metal, after a few dozen small hits you've essentially increased the OD of the spindle tube. If you go too far and the bearing won't fit take Emery cloth and sand it back down.
IDK what the optimum number of hits are, I've just put them where the spindles is worn and where the bearing sits, IME mostly between 3 and 9 O'clock (bottom side)
If you're using the old bearing to test the spindle, that bearing also may be opened up a bit (ID of the inner race).
Or, call these guys:
I don't believe speedi sleeve can be used under a bearing. They are made for repairing grooved surfaces for seals.
Not for bearings.
There is not space between a steel spindle and steel bearing race to fit a sleeve. (if there is, a sleeve ain't gonna help)
A rubber oil seal just stretches around the extra metal of the sleeve.
- Thread starter
- #40
Oops. Just edited that post to say where the wheel bearing seal rides (for the speedi sleeve part number)
