Passenger Rear Wheel Leaking Brake Fluid

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Making progress with assembly. Reached 10 ft-lbs of bearing preload. Bleeding the caliper with a vacuum pump and gravity. I do my best to not press the brake pedal as it can take it out sooner on a bleed if the bore is worn. Seen this several times.
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Axle shaft slid right in after using my kids SST & saying a prayer to move the elocker cog back in place.
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You're moving too fast ;), if you want to pull the hub off, order new seals and wait, these Terrain Tamer hub seals were made for that situation. I just installed a set but too early to give feedback.

Watch the videos in the links:

 
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Turns out the beauty of installing the oil seal backwards accidentally is that the groove it wore is nowhere near the correct oil seal location so I really don’t need a speedy sleeve, but I am still curious about the part number. As much as the terrain tamer seals look pretty cool, not at that point either.
 
Here you go:

(Edit: dead link)
 
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Wrapping it up today and went to top her off with oil and could hear vacuum when I pulled the fill plug. Gotta investigate the vent tube. This may be the ultimate reason it blew.
 
Sure enough, the breather was stopped up. I did the flapper mod and all is good now.
 
In reviewing the flapper mod that makes the differential breather vent a 2-way valve from the one-way air only goes out stock style, is it possible it could introduce moisture and humidity causing the axle housing to corrode inside above the oil line? Or another thought is internal housing corrosion only caused by water contamination in the oil? @Mark W have you seen this problem before? So, wondering if there is another way to allow 2-way flow without the valve such as a bellow.
 
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Doing a 30k major maintenance. I don’t know about others, but I like to use it as a time to catch up on little things that I may have gotten behind on or have thought about how I want to clean up better. After scouring the Internet and doing research on this axle vent, I decided to just replace it with a new Toyota one. Easy 1 banana job. Pull the old one out with a pair of pliers and pop the new one on. I noticed the new one has a cap that has a little more movement than the old one, but definitely is made for pressure to escape not come back in.
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I'd eventually like to extend that breather up into the frame or rear tail lamp and do the front as well. I know I can use fuel hose but I like how this factory hose is more flexible. Anyone know what it is or how to buy it in bulk or longer sizes?
 
After noticing my brake fluid color not as clear as it was when I changed it this year and reading this thread as well as being at a service interval, I decided to replace it with Genuine Toyota fluid.
 
My 80 series doesn’t respond well to a hand pump bleeder so due to a friends recommendation I purchased this pressure bottle & adapter which makes the job go so much better and so much more control with less chance of air being in it. For those of you using one of these curious how much you typically pump it up to.
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Did you ever go back and recheck the bearing preload? Every time I've used that stupid FSM technique with the fish scale, the bearings have lost their preload in less than 10K miles, so I quit doing it that way and now do a torque down, back off method that hasn't failed yet.
 
I’ve actually got it apart right now and working on that. After seeing what I saw back in February, this seems to need double the book recommendation for service with my 35 inch tires and driving style Seems like I have to go way over the factory spec to get the fishscale right. Are you doing the factory service manual torque amounts or higher?
 
I’ve actually got it apart right now and working on that. After seeing what I saw back in February, this seems to need double the book recommendation for service with my 35 inch tires and driving style Seems like I have to go way over the factory spec to get the fishscale right. Are you doing the factory service manual torque amounts or higher?
I have notes some where, but I'm using a higher value. There are several posts here about values that people use with good results, I don't think the FSM procedure or values provide a reliable result in this case.
 
"curious how much you typically pump it up to"

I pump it up to 15psi (needle pointing vertical @ 12 O'clock) which IIRC is what Motive recommends; as the bottle empties the pressure drops and the flow slows down a bit so I pump it back up between each bleeder position while checking the fluid level in the bottle.

Tips: don't walk away while bleeding using the bottle, IME it empties quicker than it may appear. Try to keep the bottle upright as if it falls over on it's side it could suck air before the bottle is empty. IME you will need at least one quart to fully flush a neglected system, I used two quarts IIRC.

 
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Cool. That’s what I’ve been doing. Thanks for posting the instructions link.
 
I have notes some where, but I'm using a higher value. There are several posts here about values that people use with good results, I don't think the FSM procedure or values provide a reliable result in this case.
Hey @sbman, how's the 80 doing? I wanted to reach out as I am in the process of swapping rear diffs and doing wheel bearing preload again. Curious what you landed on for torque that may hold the bearings tight for the 35's and wheeling. I'm wondering about 55 ft/lbs. Thanks in advance!
 

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