I don't think I'd want a "normal" shop that normally is slapping brake pads in Corollas messing with my KDSS system. I'd rather have someone with at least some experience with installing stuff like this.
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Yes full droop, or close to it before modifying. I had to take 3/8” of metal or so between the outer hex edge of the stop and the bracket it is attached to. It is the coil itself that hits, I think the second wrap or so but can’t remember exactly which one. I got a pic of the modified bracket but forgot to get one of the contact itself, that was in the plan for when I finally get the thing on a ramp. (It’s all the way across town and I’ve been working a ton lately)@bloc, is it only upon full droop that it contacts the bump stop bracket? Is it the coil or lower bucket that contacts?
I did the install about a month ago so I’d say my perception is pretty realistic. Yes a good shop can handle it, but due to past experiences I don’t trust just “any” shop to have the attention to detail required to do this right. It isn’t just removing stock parts and replacing.. and frankly many shops aren’t great about that work either. Very few even torque the LCA bolts to spec, leading to alignment drift and other problems.
And if I made it sound difficult, it isn’t, I’m just trying to list all the details I can think of.
I'm with @bloc, this isn't just an unbolt and bolt on job. There is grinding on the front bump stops for spring clearance, and I had to do some modification to the rear bump stops as well (only slotted the mounting holes, but it wasn't as simple as unbolt, rebolt) to fit the reservoir brackets. I'd find a trusted shop, ideally that knows Toyota/4x4s.Ben surprisingly recommended just any normal shop. He said they bolt on easily, and it's actually better sometimes to go somewhere basic than to someplace more specialized that could start tinkering too much.
Gonna be a wait of many weeks, as Kings builds in batches.
The coils are spaced closer than that, and it was one of the coils down by the lower bucket, so it would put a significant side load on the lower spherical rod end and the shaft itself. It was enough interference that there is no way to even get the coilover into place without making the room.Fortunately the contact is on the coil spring in the fully extended position which should give pretty readily when there's contact. Unless someone is racing or articulating hard regularly, it's probably not a big issue even if it wasn't clearance.
Sure seems like King really tried to maximize all the potential travel there was. Interested in how much down travel it adds.
Maybe something like a coil sleeve could minimize contact impacts
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I have the 285/75R17 which is the same width and within 0.1" height. See my "34s on stock suspension" thread (though don't let the thread name fool you, I ended up with a lift...) Basically it'll fit if you are willing to trim some of the front plastic liner, remove your front mud flaps, smack the bracket behind the mud flaps with a hammer, and use a heat gun to warm and re-shape the back part of the wheel well to make a nice smooth arcOk, guys. I'm leaning toward this tire: Nitto Ridge Grappler LT285/70R18 (Nitto Ridge Grappler 285/70R18).
This seems like the best of all worlds. I get an E load range and off road tread and toughness. I go up to 34" in diameter for a better ride over the small bumps. And, according to @gaijin in another thread, I get my recommended PSI down to 38. Seems like this would let me have my cake and eat it too.
Anyone have any experience with this tire? Will it fit?
I have the 285/75R17 which is the same width and within 0.1" height. See my "34s on stock suspension" thread (though don't let the thread name fool you, I ended up with a lift...) Basically it'll fit if you are willing to trim some of the front plastic liner, remove your front mud flaps, smack the bracket behind the mud flaps with a hammer, and use a heat gun to warm and re-shape the back part of the wheel well to make a nice smooth arc
Height and alignment for the KDSS and swaybar rub. I have +25 offset wheels which don’t help with the mud flaps and front plastic. If you stick to factory wheels it might be a bit less workProbably not all that. Was it the height or the width that required these mods?
How do you like this tire too?
Height and alignment for the KDSS and swaybar rub. I have +25 offset wheels which don’t help with the mud flaps and front plastic. If you stick to factory wheels it might be a bit less work
Damn. But realistically that 8-14 quote was probably going to end up being 16-20, hence the change. My quote was 4-5 weeks and ended up being 8. For the record filthy said from the beginning this could happen, and with supply chains being what they are right now I understand, but yeah I totally get not being able to wait that long.Well, I will not be proceeding. The lead time last week was 8 to 14 weeks. Today, when I went to order, it became 16 to 20 weeks. That's too long for me to wait, unfortunately.
Well, I will not be proceeding. The lead time last week was 8 to 14 weeks. Today, when I went to order, it became 16 to 20 weeks. That's too long for me to wait, unfortunately.
Hey @KLF , @bloc ,@TeCKis300 et al, have you guys seen this kit from Superior Engineering in Australia: Superior Remote Reservoir 2.5 3 Inch Lift Kit Suitable For Toyota Landcruiser 200 Series | Superior Engineering
This one is 3 to 4 inches and can do a 35" tire. They also have 0 to 2 inch kits. This one comes with a bunch of drivetrain goodies to correct for various geometry issues, including CV angles.
I'm almost wondering if it's good to just go 3" and have flexibility in place for whatever I find works best down the road -- no pun intended.
Anyone have thoughts on these kits?