NY2LA
SILVER Star
Seeking suspension advice -- unique case
- Thread starter NY2LA
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CharlieS
GOLD Star
Slightly different topic, and maybe not ideal for this tech forum, but given how you intend to use the vehicle (and it sounds like you aren't traveling in a convoy), have you thought much about self recovery so you can better reduce the odds of needing to call someone to bail you out? I've been obsessing about the topic lately... If you plan to haul recovery gear or have a winch, you might want to factor that weight into your suspension plans.
NY2LA
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #123
Yes, I have a shovel, Maxtrax, axle jack adapter, tire repair kit, hidden winch mount with a winch, 80 foot extension rope, two tree straps, and 3 pulley blocks. I also carry at least one type of satellite communication device and basic survival items for all weather conditions.
I have 1” spacers. Didn’t need to do anything with the wheel studs.
FYI, my Nitto RGs have been solid offroad tires, but they are not plush or quiet. If you're trying to build a setup for filming stuff, these are not the tires you want. Mine have gotten quite a bit noisier over the last 43k miles, but even when new they was a lot more road noise than the factory Bridgestones. Also, E load will be stiffer sidewalls in whatever you buy - which is good if you're planning a lot of rock crawling or worried about slashing a sidewall somewhere, but they are less compliant and will transfer more road feel to your suspension. Check the recommended pressure for your tire size (@gaijin can help) but even if you way overload your rig it's unlikely you need more than a C load tire which goes to 50 psi.
Now, if filming is simply an excuse to build your rig, then have at it. But your original post was about minimizing road vibration into the cabin
Now, if filming is simply an excuse to build your rig, then have at it. But your original post was about minimizing road vibration into the cabin
I also run 1" BORA spacers with no problem and no stud trimming. Haven't checked if 3/4" Bora spacers would require modification. 1-1.25" is the sweet spot as far as looks go in my opinion. This is with OEM Toyota rims.
NY2LA
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #129
Unfortunately, I don't see any C load tires in a large diameter. I'm aiming to offset the stiffness of an E with more diameter and lower PSI. I'll probably also cheat the PSI by a few points when filming from the road, especially since I won't be operating close to max capacity.
NY2LA
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #130
Just spoke with Mike at Exit Offroad, where I'm going to order the Dobinsons. He had a lot of good info and seemed very trustworthy to me. So I'm ordering from him now. I'm going to get the 542 and 545 coils for the MRAs and also get the Dobinson UCAs to maximize articulation and steering control up front. One plus is that the parts are all in stock, which mean I won't have to wait 50 years for them to arrive like with some other LC parts, and I'll actually be able to wheel the truck with them before I'm getting wheeled through a nursing home.
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Going with a 17” Rim gives you substantially more C rated tires to go with. 285/70/17 comes in almost every tire both C and E rated.
Nothing special - 275/70/18
Now that you are lifting might as well consider those 285s
The up side of 17" wheels if you can find a lot which are around +25mm offset, which means you won't need spacers. So you save the cost of spacers, and if you sell your old wheels you can probably recoup $500 or so on those as well, which makes going to 17s not hugely expensive.
As you see there are lots of manufacturers who make 285/75R17 tires but much fewer who do 285/70R18 or 285/75R18. So going that route gives you a lot of options now and in the future that you don't necessarily have sticking with 18s. Really this was the primary reason I switched. There are obviously some other advantages (a bit more sidewall for airing down, more sidewall means a more compliant ride, some shops won't touch a vehicle with spacers, etc). as well as disadvantages (more sidewall typically means a heavier tire, a more compliant tire might also mean "looser" handling/less precise steering input)
bloc
SILVER Star
Just know that per my research keeping 285/75/17 out of the KDSS arm can be difficult. +25 would help but per my research and direct questions to very knowledgeable board members not a guaranteed thing.
You are correct. Once you go that size you need to be OK with avoiding full steering lock, or doing the KDSS relo kit. On +25 offset mine rubs slightly at full lock, which only happens when parking or crawling on a trail. It doesn't stop the tire, but you can feel it in the steering wheel. KDSS or passenger-side sway bar contact, depending on the direction.
I have run Nitto RG's, BFG KO2 AT's and Toyo RT's exclusively over the past five or six years and I can say that the Nitto RG is quieter both initially and over 25K miles than the KO2's. I don't recall if the RT's got louder in time but I was running 37x13.50's and they were inherently louder simply due to their sheer size.
Interesting. The RGs are definitely louder than the AT Revo's I had on my old 3rd gen 4R, though both got quite a bit louder as they wore.
FWIW since day 1 I've always been able to "feel" the tire lugs when moving at very low speed (<3-4 mph) on asphalt. Rolling at any normal speed I don't notice
