Scout II Saginaw conversion, '81 mini truck TRE, SBC, 60 series damper

[bikersmurf]

Yesterday I drilled out the rivets and removed the original fixed end from the crossmember. This afternoon I cut back the winch mounting plate and painted the section of crossmember where I'll remount the fixed mount to. I've tested and the 60 series damper has somewhat more than 2" more travel than the relay rod will move. Unfortunately it was raining so I didn't take any pictures... but it is painted and ready to drill new holes and bolt it on with 1/2" bolts.

 

[bikersmurf]

The same conversion could be done using a 60/70/80 Toyota box.

To address a question I was asked elsewhere... I have seen Toyota OEM shock towers cut to clear the steering box, but I find them to be too low to allow maximum articulation. Instead, I'm running stock length ('77ish) rear shocks on the front so that they don't act as limiting straps.

 

[bikersmurf]

Drilled out the rivets and drilled new holes for the mount.

Bolted in the new position with 1/2” bolts.

“60 series” damper mounted on a 40 series to allow for the different mounting position since there is no longer a center arm.

 

[bikersmurf]

Finished it off with a rebuilt ‘76 front end with a 60 series 3rd with 3.70 gears to match the rear.

New U-bolts, castor shims, and longer shackles.

Almost forgot shackle skid plates.

These were a bit beat up.

And new 555 TREs all around.

 

[bikersmurf]

Longer shackles.

Before.

After. A good 1” lift, and more importantly extra droop. The stock shackles greatly limited downwards travel. Theses should greatly help that.

 

[pb4ugo]

I'm running scout p/s with small pattern FJ40 knuckles and I'm currently upgrading the knuckles to large pattern FJ60 knuckles. I'm trying to figure out how I want to upgrade to the larger FJ60 tre and drag link ends, which have larger diameter threads than the stk 40's for the drag and tie rod ends. On your Beck Arnley 101-3333 drag link end at the pitman arm, is that threading into a stk fj40 17mm threaded drag link tube?

 

[bikersmurf]

I'm running scout p/s with small pattern FJ40 knuckles and I'm currently upgrading the knuckles to large pattern FJ60 knuckles. I'm trying to figure out how I want to upgrade to the larger FJ60 tre and drag link ends, which have larger diameter threads than the stk 40's for the drag and tie rod ends. On your Beck Arnley 101-3333 drag link end at the pitman arm, is that threading into a stk fj40 17mm threaded drag link tube?

17mm seems about right… what I know is that it is a stock ‘74/‘77 tie rod. I did not need to change it in any way. I unscrewed the TRE that connected to the bel crank and screwed the new TRE in its place. Its taper was the same as the Pitman arm I had from the Sept ‘69 Chev Bel Air that I got my first SBC from.

The pitman arm I used was almost straight to begin with and I carefully heated it till it was cherry red and bent it so it had a minimal drop. I they reheated it and then cooled it in a bucket of preheated rocks over many hours. This is the process I used but do so at your own risk, I’m not a metals expert but carefully followed directions I received.

 

[MOTOV8R]

17mm seems about right… what I know is that it is a stock ‘74/‘77 tie rod. I did not need to change it in any way. I unscrewed the TRE that connected to the bel crank and screwed the new TRE in its place. Its taper was the same as the Pitman arm I had from the Sept ‘69 Chev Bel Air that I got my first SBC from.

The pitman arm I used was almost straight to begin with and I carefully heated it till it was cherry red and bent it so it had a minimal drop. I they reheated it and then cooled it in a bucket of preheated rocks over many hours. This is the process I used but do so at your own risk, I’m not a metals expert but carefully followed directions I received.

A friend sent off his pitman arm and steering arms to a shop that heats and bends them. They supposedly used the slow cool as well. Fast forward 10 or so years and the pitman arm cracked. I’d suggest to inspect it regularly. He was running 35’s and 37’s and wheeling it but not abusing it.

 

[bikersmurf]

A friend sent off his pitman arm and steering arms to a shop that heats and bends them. They supposedly used the slow cool as well. Fast forward 10 or so years and the pitman arm cracked. I’d suggest to inspect it regularly. He was running 35’s and 37’s and wheeling it but not abusing it.

View attachment 3638275

I'll be sure to check it regularly. With a 50 year old 40, I'd recommend regular pre-trip inspections. I'd also only recommend making limited changes to its shape.

As an example, of why to give your rig a pre-trip inspection… When I was out on a trail, I had a factory shackle crack in two places. One of the side plates cracked in line with both bolt holes. When I jacked up that front corner I heard a clink from the middle section of the shackle hitting the ground. It was a very unpleasant surprise. Fortunately I had an air-drill, bit, and strip of bar stock on hand for a field repair. The improvised part was still going strong when I replaced it a week or so later.
In this case it worked out alright, but I’d rather have found the cracked shackle in my driveway. I tend to be prepared for the unexpected and it was fine, but who knows how long it had been broken for… it potentially could have been far worse.

 

[bikersmurf]

Now with castor shims, an alignment, and rebuilt front knuckles, I can let go of the steering wheel and it’ll keep going in the right direction. Not saying let go let go, but it doesn’t need constant input. It’s something I’d have not thought possible in ‘91 when I bought it.