Amazing! You do a Best way for artists and creators to get sustainable income and connect with fans | Patreon account so we can buy you some beers... 
Scored 2007 Unicorn. The holy grail of 100 series. (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter 2001LC
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I love your attention to detail, I've mentioned to you before having a little OCD problem myself. I would love to know the history of these no nav trucks as I've only seen a few. One was another silver one like yours that appeared to have had body damage repaired and the other was dark gray beautiful and also came from PR originally I believe. I've attached the picture for reference with the OE
- Thread starter
- #103
Thank for for say that, it's very kind and uplifting.The amount of information you are providing will not only be super useful on mud, but the whole internet! I have yet to see as detailed of a breakdown anywhere else.
Thanks for doing what you do!
I think about posting step by step stuff, but time prohibits. Hopefully pictures & overview helps answer most questions, gives helpful guidance and clues.
Don't drink much these days, but thanks!Amazing! You do a Best way for artists and creators to get sustainable income and connect with fans | Patreon account so we can buy you some beers...
Perhaps a fund people could contribute to, so I could build a shop with a lift, climate control and a bunch of stuff I dream of.
Then those local members that ask for my help, wouldn't have to wait so long.
I pray you don't really have a little OCD. That it's just a descriptive one-liner so many in these days of texts & tweets use.
OCD noT... I just believe in doing a job to the best of my ability within reason. That with each new project I learn just a little more and a better techniques improving my skills incrementally to produce a better more reliable rig each time. I can assure you, OCD is not one of my many issues.
I've not seen in-person a stripped down model like yours, only in pictures. They seem common outside USA. Running VIN # at Toyota/Lexus can yield clues!
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- Thread starter
- #104
Vacuum lines and hoses.
"Rubber gets old". Not just in engine bay but throughout our any vehicle. Age & heat work to leach out plasticizers shringing and stiffing rubber. Environment condition & corrosive have their effect on all our rubber parts as well. It's not practical or necessary to sweep through and change all rubber in our rigs at once. But we can get ahead of the curve, starting in engine bay.
Many of the vacuum lines and hoses to fine if not disturbed. Others like PCV hose need replacing regularly. I show some I replace in this thread.
Toyota sell two & three foot section. For some reason the three foot is way overpriced. The two foot section are much better priced. One can buy aftermarket, but good luck finding the quality and ID. Some vacuum line and hose is better just bought, as they're mold to specific shape or have many prices they come with. For me all water hose & fuel hoses I just go with OEM pre cut/molded Where other we just cut to length.
Toyota Vacuum line two section are clearly marked as replacements.
It's about $1.00 pre foot ($2 a PN#)
These two 18" hoses come off switches #2 of A.I, of the VVt. But all 2UZ-fe have vacuum lines that can use refreshing.
This hose from VSV was first time I'd pulled one and sure enough it was cracking at one end.
"Rubber gets old". Not just in engine bay but throughout our any vehicle. Age & heat work to leach out plasticizers shringing and stiffing rubber. Environment condition & corrosive have their effect on all our rubber parts as well. It's not practical or necessary to sweep through and change all rubber in our rigs at once. But we can get ahead of the curve, starting in engine bay.
Many of the vacuum lines and hoses to fine if not disturbed. Others like PCV hose need replacing regularly. I show some I replace in this thread.
Toyota sell two & three foot section. For some reason the three foot is way overpriced. The two foot section are much better priced. One can buy aftermarket, but good luck finding the quality and ID. Some vacuum line and hose is better just bought, as they're mold to specific shape or have many prices they come with. For me all water hose & fuel hoses I just go with OEM pre cut/molded Where other we just cut to length.
Toyota Vacuum line two section are clearly marked as replacements.
It's about $1.00 pre foot ($2 a PN#)
These two 18" hoses come off switches #2 of A.I, of the VVt. But all 2UZ-fe have vacuum lines that can use refreshing.
This hose from VSV was first time I'd pulled one and sure enough it was cracking at one end.
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- #105
I'm not doing the 4 attached to heat cores at firewall, as they looked ok. What do you guys think, are they a "while your in there" ?
Extra two hoses (one clear) are just to loop back to seal off temporarily.
I flushed and refilled heater cores and piping/hose with Toyota SSL coolant (pink). I did not want left open to air. I've learned coolant has conditioner for rubber and plastic (plastizeries). Exposed to air of older rubber & plastic may lead to drying out damage. Also could lead to minor oxidation of aluminum. IMHO this is why radiator top plastic & heater plastic tees turn brown and crack once dried. I'm now wondering if the old Toyota LL red has more or better absorbing conditioner or is the Super Long Life effectiveness reduced by length of time it's left in system.
I'm replacing the water bypass pipe & water bypass joint rear hoses and heater Tee's (I'll show H. Tees later), on engine with pre cut as I do with all water hose I've concern with.
A little soapy water makes install of any water hose so much easier.
Note where factory place clamps. They keep away from enlarged tip of pipe, place out near edge of hoses.
Hot side to heater cores from water bypass joint rear
Return hose to bypass pipe from heater cores
Extra two hoses (one clear) are just to loop back to seal off temporarily.
I flushed and refilled heater cores and piping/hose with Toyota SSL coolant (pink). I did not want left open to air. I've learned coolant has conditioner for rubber and plastic (plastizeries). Exposed to air of older rubber & plastic may lead to drying out damage. Also could lead to minor oxidation of aluminum. IMHO this is why radiator top plastic & heater plastic tees turn brown and crack once dried. I'm now wondering if the old Toyota LL red has more or better absorbing conditioner or is the Super Long Life effectiveness reduced by length of time it's left in system.
I'm replacing the water bypass pipe & water bypass joint rear hoses and heater Tee's (I'll show H. Tees later), on engine with pre cut as I do with all water hose I've concern with.
A little soapy water makes install of any water hose so much easier.
Note where factory place clamps. They keep away from enlarged tip of pipe, place out near edge of hoses.
Hot side to heater cores from water bypass joint rear
Return hose to bypass pipe from heater cores
Paul, you're work is inspiring and there are likely more than a few of us that have confidence tackling a project they otherwise wouldn't have touched with a 10 foot pole.
At this point, I'm considering doing a timing belt/water pump myself. As a novice (at best) I'm more concerned about the potential for unexpected issues (improper use of sealants etc by PO or shop) and would appreciate your input.
I've fixed my own door speakers, door lock actuators etc. with no problems. I've changed all my own fluids (with the exception of coolant) and done spark plugs and serpentine belts to give you a sense for what I've worked on. I don't have access to the myriad of tools that most on here have and the inconvenience would be driving 2.5 hrs and using a precious free weekend to do the job.
Do you have any thoughts for a first time TB/WP DIY'er? Maybe I could plead with you do put together your own step by step at some point in the future? I'm sure any number of us would pitch in to a "Paul's lift fund" in exchange for a guided DIY thread
Thanks again for your incredible contributions, you are what makes owning a LC and being apart of this community such a unique experience.
-Pete
At this point, I'm considering doing a timing belt/water pump myself. As a novice (at best) I'm more concerned about the potential for unexpected issues (improper use of sealants etc by PO or shop) and would appreciate your input.
I've fixed my own door speakers, door lock actuators etc. with no problems. I've changed all my own fluids (with the exception of coolant) and done spark plugs and serpentine belts to give you a sense for what I've worked on. I don't have access to the myriad of tools that most on here have and the inconvenience would be driving 2.5 hrs and using a precious free weekend to do the job.
Do you have any thoughts for a first time TB/WP DIY'er? Maybe I could plead with you do put together your own step by step at some point in the future? I'm sure any number of us would pitch in to a "Paul's lift fund" in exchange for a guided DIY thread
Thanks again for your incredible contributions, you are what makes owning a LC and being apart of this community such a unique experience.
-Pete
Paul, you're work is inspiring and there are likely more than a few of us that have confidence tackling a project they otherwise wouldn't have touched with a 10 foot pole.
At this point, I'm considering doing a timing belt/water pump myself. As a novice (at best) I'm more concerned about the potential for unexpected issues (improper use of sealants etc by PO or shop) and would appreciate your input.
I've fixed my own door speakers, door lock actuators etc. with no problems. I've changed all my own fluids (with the exception of coolant) and done spark plugs and serpentine belts to give you a sense for what I've worked on. I don't have access to the myriad of tools that most on here have and the inconvenience would be driving 2.5 hrs and using a precious free weekend to do the job.
Do you have any thoughts for a first time TB/WP DIY'er? Maybe I could plead with you do put together your own step by step at some point in the future? I'm sure any number of us would pitch in to a "Paul's lift fund" in exchange for a guided DIY thread
Thanks again for your incredible contributions, you are what makes owning a LC and being apart of this community such a unique experience.
-Pete
I will reply on the side of caution. I think if that was all i had done then i would not take this project on. There are so many moving parts and the risk is very high. Maybe start another thread to not clutter this one.
- Thread starter
- #108
To backing up a little. There is only one hose I've not been able to replace on any 2UZ VVT. It's a very short with tight bends vacuum hose on A.I. valve switch assy. Factory will not sell as far as we know (my best parts guys' looked), except with ~$300 switch. I've tried replacing with standard Toyota replacement hose, but it kinks in the bend. Fortunately it's not necessary to remove and all have felt and looked ok that I've seen.
I'll be replacing more rubber and plastic as I work my way through The Unicorn.
I'll be replacing more rubber and plastic as I work my way through The Unicorn.
Roger that. I usually air on the side of caution and appreciate candidness. If I had all the time in the world and a space to do it with a second car on top of all that, you bet I'd go for it.
- Thread starter
- #110
Paul, you're work is inspiring and there are likely more than a few of us that have confidence tackling a project they otherwise wouldn't have touched with a 10 foot pole.
At this point, I'm considering doing a timing belt/water pump myself. As a novice (at best) I'm more concerned about the potential for unexpected issues (improper use of sealants etc by PO or shop) and would appreciate your input.
I've fixed my own door speakers, door lock actuators etc. with no problems. I've changed all my own fluids (with the exception of coolant) and done spark plugs and serpentine belts to give you a sense for what I've worked on. I don't have access to the myriad of tools that most on here have and the inconvenience would be driving 2.5 hrs and using a precious free weekend to do the job.
Do you have any thoughts for a first time TB/WP DIY'er? Maybe I could plead with you do put together your own step by step at some point in the future? I'm sure any number of us would pitch in to a "Paul's lift fund" in exchange for a guided DIY thread
Thanks again for your incredible contributions, you are what makes owning a LC and being apart of this community such a unique experience.
-Pete
At some point I'll do more step by step, and have some in mud now. I've also done them in individual threads of others, by advising as they get stuck or to pointout best practice or tips.
So my stuff is spread all over the place in mud. It's one of the reasons why I stater these longer threads on specific rig and have started a collective thread you'll find in first line my signture. I'll keep adding helpful threats to it, as the years roll by and time allows.
In these project restores, I hit some finer point and tips. But I always recommend using the FSM (Factory Service Manuals) on every job to even a seasoned mechanic. I cut my teeth on the 100 series with Wheel Bearing Service, but even I get out my FSM each time to double check torques. It (FSM) not only gives step by step procedure, tips, sealant, etc. It also give torque specs which every bolt has. Using it and reading through my stuff and what others on a give area/subject have posted in mud, gives all one will needs to do most any job on the 100 series. Tools and time are a different subject, you must have both along with patience! Note: Today Toyota only offers FSM online, through TIS.
My stuff also (I Hope) gives insight into what one can expect with aging felt of 100 series.
Also I must say, I gain a great deal from the collective knowledge of this forum, it is a great resource. Which I'm happy to be a part of, too pay it backward and forward as well
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Lol, it's not a debilitating thing for me but have some real issues, luckily its not to the extent of others, more along the lines of routines, public restrooms, cleanliness and germs. Goes right along with my diagnosed ADD..(both drive my wife crazy) Automotive detailing is pretty good therapy for me.So many times i see people "refurbish" cars, houses etc without paying attention to the details, and its good to see others share in this, is maybe what i meant. (why repaint the hood but not address the bumper or grill type things) I look forward to your progress on this one!
Thank for for say that, it's very kind and uplifting.
I think about posting step by step stuff, but time prohibits. Hopefully pictures & overview helps answer most questions, gives helpful guidance and clues.
Don't drink much these days, but thanks!
Perhaps a fund people could contribute to, so I could build a shop with a lift, climate control and a bunch of stuff I dream of.
Then those local members that ask for my help, wouldn't have to wait so long.
I pray you don't really have a little OCD. That it's just a descriptive one-liner so many in these days of texts & tweets use.
OCD noT... I just believe in doing a job to the best of my ability within reason. That with each new project I learn just a little more and a better techniques improving my skills incrementally to produce a better more reliable rig each time. I can assure you, OCD is not one of my many issues.
I've not seen in-person a stripped down model like yours, only in pictures. They seem common outside USA. Running VIN # at Toyota/Lexus can yield clues!
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- #112
Head cover (AKA: valve covers) bolts.
So I re torque head cover bolts to 53in-lbf (that's inch). I removed each bolt ONE AT A TIME. I do not want more than one bolt out or loose at any time, due to chance of distributing gasket. As I pulled them, I cleaned and applied anti-sizes then just sung back down. Once I've worked all 9 bolts on a side, I Torque to 53in-lbf. I do this in steps (Uniformly tighten the bolts in several passes).
So often I see guys replacing valve cover gasket, othen times getting in trouble with broken bolts. First off, most times the gasket leaks because the 9 bolts are loose. Everyone I've seen leak, up to 300K miles, I've stop leak just by retorquing. If spark plug tube seal leaks that a different ball game, but torquing head cover bolt often stop those leaks as well..
(Stock picture not of The Unicorn, but is a 2UZ-fseVVt out of a 4runner.)
Don't be confused by these 6 front cam bearing caps bolts. These take two different torque spec with a specific sequence
Here's the gasket.
Naked head from that same 4runner.
So I re torque head cover bolts to 53in-lbf (that's inch). I removed each bolt ONE AT A TIME. I do not want more than one bolt out or loose at any time, due to chance of distributing gasket. As I pulled them, I cleaned and applied anti-sizes then just sung back down. Once I've worked all 9 bolts on a side, I Torque to 53in-lbf. I do this in steps (Uniformly tighten the bolts in several passes).
So often I see guys replacing valve cover gasket, othen times getting in trouble with broken bolts. First off, most times the gasket leaks because the 9 bolts are loose. Everyone I've seen leak, up to 300K miles, I've stop leak just by retorquing. If spark plug tube seal leaks that a different ball game, but torquing head cover bolt often stop those leaks as well..
(Stock picture not of The Unicorn, but is a 2UZ-fseVVt out of a 4runner.)
Don't be confused by these 6 front cam bearing caps bolts. These take two different torque spec with a specific sequence
Here's the gasket.
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- Thread starter
- #113
Spark plugs and coils.
I pulled all coils and spark plugs from the replacement engine. Looks like Lexus used NGK. The NGK's all had a gap of ~1.09, which was excellent (like new) for plugs 98K miles. No halos on any plugs. It possible they'd been replaced at some point, but I didn't see that in Lexus service records and they are Japanese made NGKs.
Coils rubber boots all look excellent and soft.
New Denso spark factory torque spec is 13ft-lbf on spark plugs. But due to issue of walking out, I torqued to 18ft-lbf.
I also used anti-seize on coil securing bolts, torquing down to 66IN-lbf (INCH)
I pulled all coils and spark plugs from the replacement engine. Looks like Lexus used NGK. The NGK's all had a gap of ~1.09, which was excellent (like new) for plugs 98K miles. No halos on any plugs. It possible they'd been replaced at some point, but I didn't see that in Lexus service records and they are Japanese made NGKs.
Coils rubber boots all look excellent and soft.
New Denso spark factory torque spec is 13ft-lbf on spark plugs. But due to issue of walking out, I torqued to 18ft-lbf.
I also used anti-seize on coil securing bolts, torquing down to 66IN-lbf (INCH)
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- Thread starter
- #114
Wire Harness, main to EUC.
Takes a bit of time and a sequence to remove the main wire harness, from the 100 series and replace on the replacement GX470 Lexus engine.
Interesting, I noticed factory greased (likely a dialectic) the one wire housing block that goes to top LH of the three on transmission bell housing.
After stringing across the LH head cover, I fasten into timing belt cover and connected to cam sensor.
Takes a bit of time and a sequence to remove the main wire harness, from the 100 series and replace on the replacement GX470 Lexus engine.
Interesting, I noticed factory greased (likely a dialectic) the one wire housing block that goes to top LH of the three on transmission bell housing.
After stringing across the LH head cover, I fasten into timing belt cover and connected to cam sensor.
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- Thread starter
- #115
I then thread the crank sensor and oil sending unit wire housing blocks behind the fan bracket with AC compressor hanging at top of bracket. It easy with AC compressor off.
Move to rear of engine I took off the GX470 O2 hangers and fastened on the 100 series RH side
The left side O2 hanger includes transmission breather hanger hose tube ends.
Plugging in all wire housing to stuff like coils, fuel injectors, VVt cam sensors, vacuum switches etc. is easy, as they all rest in proper place and have specific wire housing block plugs shapes. I replace both VVt control wire housing blocks also the temperature sending unit, all other were find.
Move to rear of engine I took off the GX470 O2 hangers and fastened on the 100 series RH side
The left side O2 hanger includes transmission breather hanger hose tube ends.
Plugging in all wire housing to stuff like coils, fuel injectors, VVt cam sensors, vacuum switches etc. is easy, as they all rest in proper place and have specific wire housing block plugs shapes. I replace both VVt control wire housing blocks also the temperature sending unit, all other were find.
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- Thread starter
- #116
LH battery/starter wire case housing hangers & fuel line bracket on LH head cover was next. torqued to 66In-lbf.
Ground wire of battery/starter attaches to LH engine lift point.
RH side hangers for main wire housing are clip on fuel rail and coils, fuel injectors, vacuum switches, VVt cam sensor & water temperature wire blocks all clipped in.
Ground wire of battery/starter attaches to LH engine lift point.
RH side hangers for main wire housing are clip on fuel rail and coils, fuel injectors, vacuum switches, VVt cam sensor & water temperature wire blocks all clipped in.
Great work. Why do you suppose just that one plug had dielectric grease? Is it in a place that can more easily be contaminated, or is it to something more critical?
OP: Does your vehicle have the Passenger Airbag On/Off indicator highlighted in the picture below? There are several different versions of this. Some only have the Passenger seat belt. I'm trying to determine if yours has everything in the below picture. Essentially, the airbag on/off light should switch between on and off based on the weight on your seat. Thank you in advance for any response you post. It's much appreciated.
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- #119
Thanks for say that Dace, means a lot coming from you!
Good question @dace voit.
I don't think it's a place that gets more contaminates, as I've not noticed more or less on that wire housing than two next to it.
It's the only wire block I recall or noticed that has grease in it. It's one of two that I can think of, that have a swing arm locking mechanism. The other connect into transmission which you can see on this 08 4Runner transmission I've pictured below. I've not unraveled the sheathing to actually see if this is from same wire housing block, but I suspect it is. I'm thinking these two locking connectors are considered critical and extra care is take with them..Just speculation on my part.
Only thing I can say for sure is they are about the easy to disconnect. Just swing the arm around and they pop off.
08 4Runner transmission is same as ours except a few bolt ons. Like the transmission breathers lines and adapter to transfer case (rear bolt on housing). Which puts fill plug on opposite side.
2008 4RUNNER transmission.
@jerryb asked same? in PM, you must be doing a conversation.OP: Does your vehicle have the Passenger Airbag On/Off indicator highlighted in the picture below? There are several different versions of this. Some only have the Passenger seat belt. I'm trying to determine if yours has everything in the below picture. Essentially, the airbag on/off light should switch between on and off based on the weight on your seat. Thank you in advance for any response you post. It's much appreciated.
IDK! But did find some old pictures that may give what you guys are looking for?
If not. I'll running soon, so keep and eye on this thread. Once you see i've running and working on interior stuff, remind me to look if you don't hear back from me.
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