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+++Very intersted for cup holder heat solution.
I used a GearWrench and it was a lot easier.
aging fleet
SILVER Star
What boot clamp tool are you going with?
Man I absolutely love love love my GearWrenches.
I purchased a set from 8mm to 19mm literally back in 2002 off a tool truck when they first came out.
The storage tray holds them all well and intact. I'm just a lite home mechanic but they are great for me.
No angled heads or reversible switches, just plane GearWrenches.
Nice thing too is they are lifetime warrantied thru any Fastenal as well.
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- Thread starter
- #187
The one @abuck99 posted looks good Amazon.com: OTC 4722 Stinger Heavy-Duty CV Boot Clamp Installer: Automotive It's certainly less expensive than the OTC 09521-24010 Drive Shaft Clamping Tool
That good info, thanks.
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Can I ask if your using 75W-90 in both diffs as well as the transfer case?
Thanks for the info and keep up the good work bud!
I was going to purchase a geared version but I found my regular Craftsman 22mm so I'll be doing my shocks with it, lol...
on post #124, the bezel you replaced... do you have a part number, source, ball park price I should expect? Mine is bad as well...
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- #192
Toyota dealer retail ~$36.
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- #193
I've completed all the needed repairs (that I could find), fluid changes and baseline with tons of new parts. I've been wanting to edited previous post where applicable to show resolutions/completions, rather than lengthening thread. But edit function is out until mud tech finds a workable solution. So I'll post new info as time allows.
I'm having windshield replaced later today, so I went ahead and pulled molding to look for rust. Happy to report no rust around windshield. I did find sources of wind noise. It seem last installer did a good job using aluminum rivets (I cannot determine if they were plastic coated) but only 3 on each side, leaving bottoms (4th ones) out.
I remove the rubber strip molding that cover the rivets inside the side molding first:
Then knock through the center shank of rivets:
Next I drilled the rivets out with a 3/16" bit:
Once I had rivets out of my way, I removed windshield wiper arms. They popped right off once nut was removed without the need for a puller, sweet!
I'm having windshield replaced later today, so I went ahead and pulled molding to look for rust. Happy to report no rust around windshield. I did find sources of wind noise. It seem last installer did a good job using aluminum rivets (I cannot determine if they were plastic coated) but only 3 on each side, leaving bottoms (4th ones) out.
I remove the rubber strip molding that cover the rivets inside the side molding first:
Then knock through the center shank of rivets:
Next I drilled the rivets out with a 3/16" bit:
Once I had rivets out of my way, I removed windshield wiper arms. They popped right off once nut was removed without the need for a puller, sweet!
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- #194
I then puller rubber strip molding (gently) off fastners that hold vent molding:
After which I removed the fasteners:
Then the vent molding, which PS has one and DS two keeps that need push from front to release them:
Then removed roof rack front plastic molding just to make install a little easier, but not necessary.
Then I simple pulled off side moldings that I had already drilled rivets out of. New side moldings have double-side tape to tack down at top in roof ruts. These had black poly gluing them down which released with very little effort/pull.
After which I removed the fasteners:
Then the vent molding, which PS has one and DS two keeps that need push from front to release them:
Then removed roof rack front plastic molding just to make install a little easier, but not necessary.
Then I simple pulled off side moldings that I had already drilled rivets out of. New side moldings have double-side tape to tack down at top in roof ruts. These had black poly gluing them down which released with very little effort/pull.
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- #195
You can see some old tape & black poly on side molding:
Last piece was the upper windshield molding which simple pulls off:
I cleaned off old black poly from last install, with a plastic scarper & cleaners to prep area. Next I'll pull interior side molding so installer don't mar up!
Why do installer job! First to look for rust so I can (if necessary) make sure any is removed and coated properly. Installer are required at good shops to do this but often cut corners. I've just made their job easier and they'll know I'm watching with an knowledgeable eye.
Last piece was the upper windshield molding which simple pulls off:
I cleaned off old black poly from last install, with a plastic scarper & cleaners to prep area. Next I'll pull interior side molding so installer don't mar up!
Why do installer job! First to look for rust so I can (if necessary) make sure any is removed and coated properly. Installer are required at good shops to do this but often cut corners. I've just made their job easier and they'll know I'm watching with an knowledgeable eye.
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- #196
I didn't mention early; I also pulled interior side molding. Installer rarely pull these, and generally cause some minor cosmetic damage to them.
Interesting they did something I've not seen before. Tech showed me two holes at top (of body) that Toyota uses for setting windshield alignment. The Tech tape under hole then filled with black poly. He said they've had Toyota's leaking water through these holes.
I am more and more becoming of the opinion we need to pull windshield every 5 years or so to say on-top-of rust. This one could have gone a few more years, I may have waited to long on my 01LC (The King).
Interesting they did something I've not seen before. Tech showed me two holes at top (of body) that Toyota uses for setting windshield alignment. The Tech tape under hole then filled with black poly. He said they've had Toyota's leaking water through these holes.
I am more and more becoming of the opinion we need to pull windshield every 5 years or so to say on-top-of rust. This one could have gone a few more years, I may have waited to long on my 01LC (The King).
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- #198
I'll be reinstalling molding today. They gave me the rivets & fasteners I'll need. But I've decided I'll stop back by their shop (Safe-lite @abuck99) to have them set rivets, once I align side molding my way. If windshield cracks, which they do sometimes when rivet are sets, they can't blame me.
This shop, I happen upon after warranty issue with mobile installers (from different Safelite shop) on WhiteLady (01LX) they could not get right. While there I got to know the manager, Tory, a great guy 30 years veteran, and now Jimmy an installer that's a 32 year veteran.
I use to pick just a closes shop and just go have a coffee during install. I've learned to pay much more attention to windshield. My 01 may cost me thousand to correct rust issue, in part due to bad install. I'll know when I get it out!
This shop, I happen upon after warranty issue with mobile installers (from different Safelite shop) on WhiteLady (01LX) they could not get right. While there I got to know the manager, Tory, a great guy 30 years veteran, and now Jimmy an installer that's a 32 year veteran.
I use to pick just a closes shop and just go have a coffee during install. I've learned to pay much more attention to windshield. My 01 may cost me thousand to correct rust issue, in part due to bad install. I'll know when I get it out!
- Thread starter
- #200
I've been
I really don't know much about the glass. It's just that this one shop has some good people. Not all are created equal!
