The PS hole you're referring to was leaking in my truck. Swapping out to new glass led to finding a tiny bit of rust forming in the top PS / roof corner that would have been a nightmare 4+ years from now.
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The PS hole you're referring to was leaking in my truck. Swapping out to new glass led to finding a tiny bit of rust forming in the top PS / roof corner that would have been a nightmare 4+ years from now.
2001LC
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #202
Well I've mixed feels.
The Redbaron headed off on it's long journey East, I mean long. It's first leg is ~2K mile drive east of the Rockies, last I heard from new owner from the road trip, Redbaron was performing great. For the second leg it will be transported ~4k miles to the Mediterranean of the Persian empire. I'm not giving specific location as it's not my place to disclose. I do hope the mud member who purchased it will come forward, to give us some color, and let me/us know how the Redbaron preforms on the road trip and over time. I know on my test drives of over 1,500 miles, I loved driving it. The 06 & 07 do have a very nice power curve along with the many refinements. With it's rebuild stabilizer system, flushed and tune AHC, new coil springs and 30 mm spacers it road as good as new.
I find it interest with whom and where my restoration projects end up. This one was/is a rare rig IMHO, that we really came to love. It would have been very cool to have seen the paint prefect-ed. But it was requested I not prefect (detail) which I respected.
Love the LED tail lights:
285/65R18 KO2's look great and ride supersized me, very nice !
Interior cleaned up well, not a full detail but nice:
The Redbaron headed off on it's long journey East, I mean long. It's first leg is ~2K mile drive east of the Rockies, last I heard from new owner from the road trip, Redbaron was performing great. For the second leg it will be transported ~4k miles to the Mediterranean of the Persian empire. I'm not giving specific location as it's not my place to disclose. I do hope the mud member who purchased it will come forward, to give us some color, and let me/us know how the Redbaron preforms on the road trip and over time. I know on my test drives of over 1,500 miles, I loved driving it. The 06 & 07 do have a very nice power curve along with the many refinements. With it's rebuild stabilizer system, flushed and tune AHC, new coil springs and 30 mm spacers it road as good as new.
I find it interest with whom and where my restoration projects end up. This one was/is a rare rig IMHO, that we really came to love. It would have been very cool to have seen the paint prefect-ed. But it was requested I not prefect (detail) which I respected.
Love the LED tail lights:
285/65R18 KO2's look great and ride supersized me, very nice !
Interior cleaned up well, not a full detail but nice:
Last edited:
Lots of hard work over the past 4 months, glad you were able to find the right buyer.
2001LC
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #207
It was a lot of work, more so than normal as I duplicated efforts going back to do some PM earlier than normal like timing belt & spark plugs. I had done things like water inlet, upper hose, compression check and fan shroud replacement that I would have waited to do with T-belt job. Also re-doing wheel bearing with new parts, then resetting breakaway preload.
Here a list of stuff done, or what I can remember:
Spent two months negotiating with seller(s) and researched maintenance history.
Pre purchase inspection.
Post purchase inspections.
Title work with issues.
Corrected car fax errors.
Can of 44K.
Clean engine & undercarriage X 3.
Oil change & filter w/M1, twice. W/new washers
Replace dip stick O-ring. (leak)
Differential flush w/M1 front & rear.W/new washers
Transfer case flush w/M1. W/new washers.
Transmission drain & fill 3qts, to inspect WS ATF fluid condition & level. W/new washers.
Power steering reservoir cleaning (wasn't bad) & flushed, w/M1 MV syn ATF.
Brakes flushed, replace 1 bleeder front DS, all bleeder caps (missing). Cleaned out both plugged rears bleeders, one was frozen in caliper.
Flushed AHC fluid & replaced one bleeder cap. Will be replaced all caps as a PM in future if they don't pass water wash test (water in cap)
Lube spiders & Propeller shafts slip yokes, twice for rear slip yoke adding #1 moly for slight thunk.
Checked breathers, tightened rear bleeder stud which had loosened from rear differential.
Checked air filter, good.
MAF cleaning.
Fuse box seal, replaced.
Compression check.
Battery baking soda cleaning, post clean & post greasing.
Throttle body cleaning and new gasket.
Intake manifold gaskets.
Water-by-pass front w/gaskets replaced.
Water inlet replaced.
Upper rad hose replaced.
Fan shroud replaced.
Thermostat replaced.
Timing belt, both pulleys, tensioner, water pump all replaced.
Spark plug tubes checked for oil, good.
Spark plugs, replaced.
PCV test, and hoses (both sides) replaced.
Missing bolt & nuts, replaced.
Fan bracket replaced.
Drive belt tensioner pulley bearing replaced.
Fuel filter replaced.
Head cover bolts, re-torqued.
Heater Tee's replaced.
Flush coolant 4 gals Toyota SLL pink.
Replaced missing or broker fasteners from previous t-belt job.
Front drive shaft CV boots & lube both sides replaced.
Front wheel bearings, races, seals, gaskets, claw washers and lock rings/washers replaced.
Axle hub flange snap rings, replaced.
Axle hub flange cone washers replaced
Brake pads & rotor front inspected.
Brake pads & rotors rear, replaced.
AHC pressure checked.
Torsion bar cranked ~2 turn each lower AHC pressure to ~6.8mpa
Coil spring replaced W/new OEM. 30mm Slee coil spring spacers installed lower AHC pressure to ~6.2 mpa w/KOS 285/65R18 in place.
Stabilizer system front & rear, rebuilt. Including new OEM stabilizer bar front & rear link brackets.
#2 under shield plastic repaired.
Oil hatch, replaced.
Coolant hatch, replaced.
Oil filter hatch, replaced.
Shiftier chrome bezel, replaced.
Glove box screw missing, replaced.
Cabin air filters pulled area cleaned. Forgot to install new filters.
Blower fan pulled, inspected & cleaned.
Rear seat pivots bushing, replaced.
Seat backs rear removed & cleaned out.
Front seat removed, cleaned under, removed DVD wiring, and R&R bad anchor bolt.
Bezel, door switch replaced PS rear.
All interior trim plastic removed & cleaned.
Carpet vacuum X3.
Carpet dry shampooed.
Leatherique interior.
Weather strip PS rear door Seal retainer replaced.
Roof rack molded center DS, replaced.
Rock chip R&r around windshield to prevent rust.
Windshield, replaced.
5 BFG K02's mounted.
Wheel locks, removed.
Back-up Camera R&R.
DVD headrest removed along with all wiring.
Headrest front replaced w/OEM.
Rear bumper support straightened, broken bolt tap & replaced.
1/4 panel rear PS tip (behind bumper), painted to prevent rust.
Topped off windshield washer fluid.
Washed body.
Cleaned glass.
Lots of test drives (~1,500 miles).
A bunch of other little stuff i can't remember at the moment.
JOB!
What I didn't do is:
Detail undercharge with wire brush & marine grease rub-down.
Detail body & paint. (minor dent removal, rubbing compound, touch up paint, rubbing compound, polish & wax.)
Glasses buffing (remove water spots)
Buff headlight lenses and coat with UV protection clear paint.
Replace AHC globe bleeder cap.
Here a list of stuff done, or what I can remember:
Spent two months negotiating with seller(s) and researched maintenance history.
Pre purchase inspection.
Post purchase inspections.
Title work with issues.
Corrected car fax errors.
Can of 44K.
Clean engine & undercarriage X 3.
Oil change & filter w/M1, twice. W/new washers
Replace dip stick O-ring. (leak)
Differential flush w/M1 front & rear.W/new washers
Transfer case flush w/M1. W/new washers.
Transmission drain & fill 3qts, to inspect WS ATF fluid condition & level. W/new washers.
Power steering reservoir cleaning (wasn't bad) & flushed, w/M1 MV syn ATF.
Brakes flushed, replace 1 bleeder front DS, all bleeder caps (missing). Cleaned out both plugged rears bleeders, one was frozen in caliper.
Flushed AHC fluid & replaced one bleeder cap. Will be replaced all caps as a PM in future if they don't pass water wash test (water in cap)
Lube spiders & Propeller shafts slip yokes, twice for rear slip yoke adding #1 moly for slight thunk.
Checked breathers, tightened rear bleeder stud which had loosened from rear differential.
Checked air filter, good.
MAF cleaning.
Fuse box seal, replaced.
Compression check.
Battery baking soda cleaning, post clean & post greasing.
Throttle body cleaning and new gasket.
Intake manifold gaskets.
Water-by-pass front w/gaskets replaced.
Water inlet replaced.
Upper rad hose replaced.
Fan shroud replaced.
Thermostat replaced.
Timing belt, both pulleys, tensioner, water pump all replaced.
Spark plug tubes checked for oil, good.
Spark plugs, replaced.
PCV test, and hoses (both sides) replaced.
Missing bolt & nuts, replaced.
Fan bracket replaced.
Drive belt tensioner pulley bearing replaced.
Fuel filter replaced.
Head cover bolts, re-torqued.
Heater Tee's replaced.
Flush coolant 4 gals Toyota SLL pink.
Replaced missing or broker fasteners from previous t-belt job.
Front drive shaft CV boots & lube both sides replaced.
Front wheel bearings, races, seals, gaskets, claw washers and lock rings/washers replaced.
Axle hub flange snap rings, replaced.
Axle hub flange cone washers replaced
Brake pads & rotor front inspected.
Brake pads & rotors rear, replaced.
AHC pressure checked.
Torsion bar cranked ~2 turn each lower AHC pressure to ~6.8mpa
Coil spring replaced W/new OEM. 30mm Slee coil spring spacers installed lower AHC pressure to ~6.2 mpa w/KOS 285/65R18 in place.
Stabilizer system front & rear, rebuilt. Including new OEM stabilizer bar front & rear link brackets.
#2 under shield plastic repaired.
Oil hatch, replaced.
Coolant hatch, replaced.
Oil filter hatch, replaced.
Shiftier chrome bezel, replaced.
Glove box screw missing, replaced.
Cabin air filters pulled area cleaned. Forgot to install new filters.
Blower fan pulled, inspected & cleaned.
Rear seat pivots bushing, replaced.
Seat backs rear removed & cleaned out.
Front seat removed, cleaned under, removed DVD wiring, and R&R bad anchor bolt.
Bezel, door switch replaced PS rear.
All interior trim plastic removed & cleaned.
Carpet vacuum X3.
Carpet dry shampooed.
Leatherique interior.
Weather strip PS rear door Seal retainer replaced.
Roof rack molded center DS, replaced.
Rock chip R&r around windshield to prevent rust.
Windshield, replaced.
5 BFG K02's mounted.
Wheel locks, removed.
Back-up Camera R&R.
DVD headrest removed along with all wiring.
Headrest front replaced w/OEM.
Rear bumper support straightened, broken bolt tap & replaced.
1/4 panel rear PS tip (behind bumper), painted to prevent rust.
Topped off windshield washer fluid.
Washed body.
Cleaned glass.
Lots of test drives (~1,500 miles).
A bunch of other little stuff i can't remember at the moment.
JOB!What I didn't do is:
Detail undercharge with wire brush & marine grease rub-down.
Detail body & paint. (minor dent removal, rubbing compound, touch up paint, rubbing compound, polish & wax.)
Glasses buffing (remove water spots)
Buff headlight lenses and coat with UV protection clear paint.
Replace AHC globe bleeder cap.
Man!! I would love to buy a truck from you with all this job done
The new buyer will have years of maintenance- free.
I enjoy ready your posts here and will refere to you when some advice needed
Well done!!
The new buyer will have years of maintenance- free.
I enjoy ready your posts here and will refere to you when some advice needed
Well done!!
Can't wait to see your next project.
That's great work so informed on the 100 series and work with a passion.
New owner received a new Cruiser...Fantastic job you definitely know the Cruisers
2001LC
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #212
Thanks guys.
It was interesting that this one pre-sold, which was a new experience for me. Only regret was it did not pre-sale earlier, as it would have saved me time and buyer money. I'll post up the 06LC I just pick-up soon, it will also be sold sooner or later. My hobby is turning into a business, just not making a living with it!
I learn a lot with each new restoration. One very simple thing I learned from this one is a new PM I'm adding to my list "bleeders caps". In last few days before new owner pick up, I bleed (flushed) AHC & Brakes. To make sure no leaks afterwards with so few days to watch/test for leaks: First blowing out bleeders & caps with HP air to clear, I'd then cleaning with de-greaser and water from a garden hose sprayer. Once dry I'd inspect outside of bleeders and under caps. I'd replaced all brake bleeder caps and one AHC cap. The other four AHC bleeder caps were still serviceable by look & feel. But all four were allowing water into bleeders. So I'm now going to replace bleeders cap if they fail water test or come up with some time interval say 5 yr to just do as PM.
I had one concern with Redbaron, that being coolant system. I could not determine why it had the coolant leak, it may have just been a one off fluke from factory. Records indicated it had coolant flushed early at 30K in 2008 (spec is 100K or 10yr), then second 82K in 2011 (spec is 50K or 5 yr), third was at about correct mileage 156K in 2015, which means it had 22K miles to many on coolant at that time, but only 4 yrs. Could be something other that Toyota pink was added or add to it?
I've not dealt with Toyota SSL pink before so not sure if old looks correct. What do you guy's think, does this look like 2 yr old SLL pink? EDITE: I've done a few now, and can say this old fluid looks normal.
Left is old from 07LC and right is new Toyota SSL with a few drops of old added as test sample.
It was interesting that this one pre-sold, which was a new experience for me. Only regret was it did not pre-sale earlier, as it would have saved me time and buyer money. I'll post up the 06LC I just pick-up soon, it will also be sold sooner or later. My hobby is turning into a business, just not making a living with it!
I learn a lot with each new restoration. One very simple thing I learned from this one is a new PM I'm adding to my list "bleeders caps". In last few days before new owner pick up, I bleed (flushed) AHC & Brakes. To make sure no leaks afterwards with so few days to watch/test for leaks: First blowing out bleeders & caps with HP air to clear, I'd then cleaning with de-greaser and water from a garden hose sprayer. Once dry I'd inspect outside of bleeders and under caps. I'd replaced all brake bleeder caps and one AHC cap. The other four AHC bleeder caps were still serviceable by look & feel. But all four were allowing water into bleeders. So I'm now going to replace bleeders cap if they fail water test or come up with some time interval say 5 yr to just do as PM.
I had one concern with Redbaron, that being coolant system. I could not determine why it had the coolant leak, it may have just been a one off fluke from factory. Records indicated it had coolant flushed early at 30K in 2008 (spec is 100K or 10yr), then second 82K in 2011 (spec is 50K or 5 yr), third was at about correct mileage 156K in 2015, which means it had 22K miles to many on coolant at that time, but only 4 yrs. Could be something other that Toyota pink was added or add to it?
I've not dealt with Toyota SSL pink before so not sure if old looks correct. What do you guy's think, does this look like 2 yr old SLL pink? EDITE: I've done a few now, and can say this old fluid looks normal.
Left is old from 07LC and right is new Toyota SSL with a few drops of old added as test sample.
Last edited:
2001 LC, great post! My 2005 LX developed a water leak coming from the top left corner of the windshield. There is a little bit of rust in that corner under the side/top moulding that allows water to sip in from underneath the rubber under the windshield (it is very small and is totally covered by the moulding). I've talked to Safelite and they can remove the windshield and come back a day or two after I do any rust repairs in that corner. (I've been to 4 body shops in my area an nobody wants to perform the repair. I can't believe it!) However, before replacing a fine, factory-installed windshield, I want to try to perform a cheapo fix and see how long it lasts.
I plan on removing the side moulding and top moulding (maybe replace them with new ones) and apply some kind of urethane/marine caulk in that corner to stop the water from getting in. Can the top moulding be removed and replaced without removing the windshield? I would scratch/sand down as much rust as I can with the windshield on, and prime it and paint if needed; to slow down the rust from spreading. But of course, I wouldn't be able to do anything with the part of rust underneath the windshield.
Any ideas? Feedback? Am I putting too much weight in keeping a perfectly fine, factory-installed windshield?
I plan on removing the side moulding and top moulding (maybe replace them with new ones) and apply some kind of urethane/marine caulk in that corner to stop the water from getting in. Can the top moulding be removed and replaced without removing the windshield? I would scratch/sand down as much rust as I can with the windshield on, and prime it and paint if needed; to slow down the rust from spreading. But of course, I wouldn't be able to do anything with the part of rust underneath the windshield.
Any ideas? Feedback? Am I putting too much weight in keeping a perfectly fine, factory-installed windshield?
2001 LC, can you elaborate a bit on removing the rivets on the side moulding of the windshield?
Is this the right sequence?
1. Knock through the center shank of rivet.
2. Drill the rivet out
3. Remove moulding
I'm a little confused.
Is this the right sequence?
1. Knock through the center shank of rivet.
2. Drill the rivet out
3. Remove moulding
I'm a little confused.
scottw
GOLD Star
I'm the lucky purchaser. Flew from the DC area to Denver Thursday night with my wife, did the deal with 2001LC first thing Friday, then we started driving east. Long first day to KC MO, then another longish day to Indy (Indy 500 weekend!). Last two days more relaxed, dropped off the interstate to wind through the West Virginia mountains on little backroads. 1,804 miles after leaving Denver arrived home late afternoon Memorial Day. My wife drove about 1/3 of the way and loved it. Truck ran perfectly all the way, what a luxurious way to go cross country! Then again I'm used to a 60 series.
I've been looking for a very specific 100 for about six months. Wanted a very mechanically sound 2007 truck, stock or close to it, in black garnet pearl, Pacific blue or Galactic Grey. Mileage not as important as mechanical condition, and cosmetic outside and inside not a real priority since I have teenagers and a big dog and we'll be going camping, carrying gardening stuff etc so I didn't want to fear every scratch on a rig with perfect paint.
When I saw 2001LC start this build thread I took a chance and agreed to buy it sight unseen based on his previous project and detailed baseline plans for this one. I was pretty nervous flying cross country on a one-way ticket with a big wad of cash to buy a car I'd never seen in person, but 2001LC is a real gentleman and everything was exactly as he said. He set a fair price that reflected the work and time he put into it.
Today got the VA safety inspection and emissions test done (passed both no problem), then title and registration and it's now good to go in the Commonwealth. This summer will ship it to my next posting, I'll put up a few pics once it's settled in overseas.
Here are a few shots of it with my '87 60. Interesting to see how the LC developed over 20 years. I like having the last year of the 60 series and the last year of the 100s.
Here's a photo of my trusty 60 stuck in a river in western Mongolia in 2003 with only some yaks for company. Hopefully I get some good adventures out of this new LC...
I've been looking for a very specific 100 for about six months. Wanted a very mechanically sound 2007 truck, stock or close to it, in black garnet pearl, Pacific blue or Galactic Grey. Mileage not as important as mechanical condition, and cosmetic outside and inside not a real priority since I have teenagers and a big dog and we'll be going camping, carrying gardening stuff etc so I didn't want to fear every scratch on a rig with perfect paint.
When I saw 2001LC start this build thread I took a chance and agreed to buy it sight unseen based on his previous project and detailed baseline plans for this one. I was pretty nervous flying cross country on a one-way ticket with a big wad of cash to buy a car I'd never seen in person, but 2001LC is a real gentleman and everything was exactly as he said. He set a fair price that reflected the work and time he put into it.
Today got the VA safety inspection and emissions test done (passed both no problem), then title and registration and it's now good to go in the Commonwealth. This summer will ship it to my next posting, I'll put up a few pics once it's settled in overseas.
Here are a few shots of it with my '87 60. Interesting to see how the LC developed over 20 years. I like having the last year of the 60 series and the last year of the 100s.
Here's a photo of my trusty 60 stuck in a river in western Mongolia in 2003 with only some yaks for company. Hopefully I get some good adventures out of this new LC...
Just out of curiosity 2001 lc is it harder to find lc or lx 470 as projects and do you do many Lx.
2001LC
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #219
Make an offer, and I'll restore to suit!
I'm very glade you find helpful. Mud has helped me over the years and I enjoy giving back & paying forward!
It begins: Need a name???? Must have White or imply white????
^ Here it is: 06LC w/194K HWY miles, use was from Denver to Vail for skiing until family moved to Beaver Creek, CO. Body's a 9++, paints 7, no accident, one owner (more or less) My goal is a 9+ showroom and coast to coast drive ready.
Say tuned, it's already begun with some new challenges.
It's and addiction!
My hope is; new owner's are happy for years to come. Thanks, I learn more with each project.
Use a 3m rust remove wheel then acid treat. Speak with Safelite, they have both and a black primer that great stuff. You'll see some more on this in my detail thread link in Whitelady Body trim polishing & correcting compounds (#40 more or less)
You got it! Make sure to go very easy with the drill. You're only remove head of rivet. Do not drill into mold or through body. Safelite has some oversize rivet that I use by triming head for install, as my had been drilled (oversize) previously. The top of molding is held in the roof rut with two-sided tape. The windshield installer's just grab the lower have (rivet area) and rip upward. This bends the metal reinforcement in molding and it will never lay flat again. If you'd like to save the molding, heat with the sun or heat gun. Then pull a fishing line through under two-sided tape of molding.
You may need to cut out rust and weld in new tin (sheet metal). This takes welding skills. But and easier way may be to use fiber glass in place of tin. I did this as a teenager and it work very well and was easy to use.
You must get every bit of rust removed, or acid treat the lite stuff. If not it will return in time.
About the same, just depends on what you look for. For me I look for one that needs/are savable with good bones. The Lexus parts are more expense, when Land Cruiser parts can't be sourced, like hood etc.
Last edited:
2001LC
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #220
Scott, it was a pleasure doing business with you. You made good decisions on purchase, along with work we complete. It's important to me that any rig I sell, new owner gets what he/she expect and more. I pray you get as many fun filled adventure in far off place with/in the Redbaron as you have with the 60 series.I'm the lucky purchaser. Flew from the DC area to Denver Thursday night with my wife, did the deal with 2001LC first thing Friday, then we started driving east. Long first day to KC MO, then another longish day to Indy (Indy 500 weekend!). Last two days more relaxed, dropped off the interstate to wind through the West Virginia mountains on little backroads. 1,804 miles after leaving Denver arrived home late afternoon Memorial Day. My wife drove about 1/3 of the way and loved it. Truck ran perfectly all the way, what a luxurious way to go cross country! Then again I'm used to a 60 series.
I've been looking for a very specific 100 for about six months. Wanted a very mechanically sound 2007 truck, stock or close to it, in black garnet pearl, Pacific blue or Galactic Grey. Mileage not as important as mechanical condition, and cosmetic outside and inside not a real priority since I have teenagers and a big dog and we'll be going camping, carrying gardening stuff etc so I didn't want to fear every scratch on a rig with perfect paint.
When I saw 2001LC start this build thread I took a chance and agreed to buy it sight unseen based on his previous project and detailed baseline plans for this one. I was pretty nervous flying cross country on a one-way ticket with a big wad of cash to buy a car I'd never seen in person, but 2001LC is a real gentleman and everything was exactly as he said. He set a fair price that reflected the work and time he put into it.
Today got the VA safety inspection and emissions test done (passed both no problem), then title and registration and it's now good to go in the Commonwealth. This summer will ship it to my next posting, I'll put up a few pics once it's settled in overseas.
Here are a few shots of it with my '87 60. Interesting to see how the LC developed over 20 years. I like having the last year of the 60 series and the last year of the 100s.
Here's a photo of my trusty 60 stuck in a river in western Mongolia in 2003 with only some yaks for company. Hopefully I get some good adventures out of this new LC...
My Girl friend & I wish we were going where you taking the Redbaron.
Can't wait to see the pictures over the next few years!
Keep forward motion in the muddy waters of the word
and you'll never get stuck!Good luck at your next Post.
Did you find all the road trip snacks hidden away
