Scored 2007 LC w/174K AHC (1 Viewer)

[Greenbean]

Second row jump seat bushing replacement.
View attachment 1429342 View attachment 1429343 View attachment 1429345 View attachment 1429344

Can I ask if the seats rattled or how you found the bushings were worn?

I have both my second row seats out and finally got the back and lower cover off the smaller one yesterday and I have zero bushings in mine. Now there is free play in the black plastic spacer or support for the rod there but zero bushings.

When I look up the model year of mine (2000 LC) it shows them there. So I'm wondering if I should get some before reassembly and install them.

Secondly I inspected throughly and couldn't find any broken parts or pieces looking like the bushings when I first removed the lower cushion pan/plastic bottom.

 

[2001LC]

Can I ask if the seats rattled or how you found the bushings were worn?

I have both my second row seats out and finally got the back and lower cover off the smaller one yesterday and I have zero bushings in mine. Now there is free play in the black plastic spacer or support for the rod there but zero bushings.

When I look up the model year of mine (2000 LC) it shows them there. So I'm wondering if I should get some before reassembly and install them.

Secondly I inspected throughly and couldn't find any broken parts or pieces looking like the bushings when I first removed the lower cushion pan/plastic bottom.

I noticed rattle coming from seat. As I was inspecting for rattles (which turnout to be mostly junk in backs) I found these bushing loose & broken and excessive play. I'd replace while out, it's cheap and easy.

 

[Greenbean]

Well I did indeed find mine were also busted, black in color too.

Now they are on a national back order so it may be a while before I get my seats back together but they are ordered. And I'm in no rush to get the 2nd row back in anyways.

Did your area under the spring look like this? I was wondering where the rest of the broken pieces went and thought maybe they got pulverized by the spring against the hinge in there.

I can't find any traces of busted up plastic pieces anywhere.

 

[Greenbean]

I noticed rattle coming from seat. As I was inspecting for rattles (which turnout to be mostly junk in backs) I found these bushing loose & broken and excessive play. I'd replace while out, it's cheap and easy.

Last question and I'll leave you alone for a while,

Did they come in sets of two when you ordered them?

You needed four right? Not eight,

 

[2001LC]

Nope, individually sold! By the way, my old one's are white, the new one's are black.

Ask all the question you like, you're no bother.

 

[sean2202]

In the process of replacing my windshield. I see you replaced both side trim pieces which I ordered as well. Did you have to replace any other gaskets/trim pieces around the windshield as well? I have read mixed things about the top gasket or trim piece. Some say aftermarket is better because there is no " channel " between the roof and the windshield. Others say stick with OEM. What did you do or think about this?

Found a good mobile installer (30 years in buisiness one man shop) that does work for 2 Toyota body shops in my area. His first words "Iv'e done them and they suck" . My truck has rust from bad previous install as well. Which is another story. He did say after rust treatment done right should be able to get at least 4-5 years before it may return.

This is why you take the a pillar mouldings off. Funny that this was the same place it was leaking. Could not see damage until it was removed.

 

[2001LC]

Last question and I'll leave you alone for a while,

Did they come in sets of two when you ordered them?

You needed four right? Not eight,

I saw you did yours and used plastic dip on tips of spring, nice touch. Let me know how well the plastic dip holds up? I've some caps that will fit, but not sure they'd stay put in the long run.

In the process of replacing my windshield. I see you replaced both side trim pieces which I ordered as well. Did you have to replace any other gaskets/trim pieces around the windshield as well? I have read mixed things about the top gasket or trim piece. Some say aftermarket is better because there is no " channel " between the roof and the windshield. Others say stick with OEM. What did you do or think about this?

Found a good mobile installer (30 years in buisiness one man shop) that does work for 2 Toyota body shops in my area. His first words "Iv'e done them and they suck" . My truck has rust from bad previous install as well. Which is another story. He did say after rust treatment done right should be able to get at least 4-5 years before it may return.

This is why you take the a pillar mouldings off. Funny that this was the same place it was leaking. Could not see damage until it was removed.

View attachment 1483199

In the this case windshield was replaced, so installer put on upper seal/trim on glass before installing glass. FSM has a different procedure, where aligning block are fixed to glass then glass installed, then top seal last after filling space with poly at angle. No installer I've seen does it to factory spec, it's just to time consuming.

I installed the side molding, then bottom molding/vent with rubber seal & wiper arms myself to insure it was set properly. The final piece is a thin strip that fit in side molding covering rivets.

I've mixed feelings on upper seal. Factory leaves roof leading edge exposed to rock chips. The after market seals that cover the roof leading edge protect it from chips. But it also hinds a cavity that may fill with organics leading to corrosion. Rust being our biggest issue I opt for the not covering leading edge.

This was photo from mud I pulled that is factory looking to me.
Notice leading edge exposed, some I've seen are even exposed more. Also notice side molding fits in perfect with upper seal in groove that expose roof line:

 

[Greenbean]

Well,

As I was looking for something I couldn't find anything so I opted to try the plastic dipping stuff.

It's name brand Plasti-dip, I thought it was going to be yellow but it was black, lol...
If I had a choice it would have been yellow or something.

Removing the remnants of the old busted ones was easy with a little help of a propane torch and just a few seconds of heat and a dirty rag cleaned the old ones right off. Or at least the bits that were left of them.

I don't plan on tearing the seats out again and taking them apart anytime soon, lol...

I broke one of the new bushings on the install and have another ordered.

I still need four more to re-install the smaller second row seat.

 

[sean2202]

Is this " thin strip that fits in side mouldings covering rivets " part of 75543-60020 or part 56117A, side trim pieces in attached diagram or is it a different part number.

 

[elpietri]

The 56117A shown in the diagram goes underneath the windshield, where the windshield sits. I think it serves as a bumper and noise-reduction. The side trims is the 75543-60020 (it is now 75543-60030), and the thin strip is 75543-60050 (I believe they call is a garnish.)

 

[kcobourn]

Second row jump seat bushing replacement.
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To get to this part did you have to remove just the plastic cover under the seat? Trying to decipher the FSM & scratching my head. Really am not wanting to have to undue hog ties to get into this.

Update: figured it out. All you have to do is pull out the bottom seat cushion cover (mine's leather) from the plastic sub-frame cover to expose the 5-6 screws holding the cover in place. Easy peasy.

 

[2001LC]

FWIW: I Just wanted to let those that may be interest to know/see/follow, I've started on a 06LC w58K miles restoration.


See my signature:

 

[2001LC]

FWIW: I Just wanted to let those that may be interest to know/see/follow, I've started on a 07LC Unicorn restore project. It has a blown engine I must deal with first!

Scored a 2007 Unicorn. The holy grail of 100 series.

 

[HburgEagle]

Thanks, hope you benefit from it!

I'm really going to hate selling this one. Not only is it a sweet ride, but only 3,251 2007 Land Cruiser's were made for the US market. This was made in February of 2007, making one of the last series 100 built. Consider that and it's color, makes this rare find indeed, IMHO.

I'd love to know what serial number was last built series 100?

Use caution when filling propeller shaft slip yokes, and make sure weight on wheel (on ground) or jack stands under rear differential. This keeps yokes in neutral positions. Once filled grease zerk can temporally be removed to relieve pressure. Bounce up & down on bumper or short drive will remove/pushes a little grease out, while zerk out.

Basically when lubing with a grease gun the idea is to push out old grease replacing with new. So pump until clean grease is seen. It just these seal are incredibly tight pressure build up may damage other parts from hydraulic pressure.

Lubing propeller shaft Risky (AKA Drive Shaft)
Too Much Grease in Drive Shaft?



1331

04/07 ending in 3763. You really have me curious what the last one is now.

 

[2001LC]

IDK, but yet to see a later MFD date!

 

[mdcoa]

You can see some old tape & black poly on side molding:
View attachment 1465316
Last piece was the upper windshield molding which simple pulls off:
View attachment 1465318

I cleaned off old black poly from last install, with a plastic scarper & cleaners to prep area. Next I'll pull interior side molding so installer don't mar up!

Why do installer job! First to look for rust so I can (if necessary) make sure any is removed and coated properly. Installer are required at good shops to do this but often cut corners. I've just made their job easier and they'll know I'm watching with an knowledgeable eye.

Sorry to resurrect such an old post--I've read all the windshield sealing/trim threads, and this is perhaps the best how-to I've seen; thanks @2001LC!

I replaced safelite screws with proper rivets shortly after we got our 04, but didn't pull the side trim. Would like to go back and do a more thorough job, ensuring the holes are rust-free, and then prime or POR-15ing them, then re-rivet the side trim.

Can I do this without buying new ($180 each at Camelback) side trim pieces, if I'm careful and nobody's used monster glue on that side trim?

And can I pull the top strip (7553160030 for my VIN), check for rust or obvious sealing failures and glue a new one back in if all looks good, easy-peasy?

No leaks, just some wind noise, and the knowledge that I probably didn't prep those holes like I should have last time. And the horror stories about creeping rust under there after sloppy installs . . . all that makes me think I should take a look.

 

[2001LC]

If the metal back bone of side molding not sprung. Absolutely, re-use them.

Top molding is considered non serviceable. Unless installing a windshield. But some on mud have pulled and reglued.

I like to add coats of POR-15 , one at a time. Let set a few hours. Then fit the rivet. Keep adding coats to the hole, to fit rivet. POR-15 coats, not so thick as to weaken hole/rivet hold.

 

[mdcoa]

Super--thanks very much! I'm going to go ahead and buy a new top strip (~$30 including shipping from Partsouq) and just be really careful as I remove the side moulding. Looking forward to getting a look in there--thanks again!

 

[prickly]

Flushed transfer case with M1:
Looks like old fill plug was leaking a tiny bit, common when washer (gasket not replaced)
View attachment 1443986

Drain plug had minimal residue on magnet, about as good as I've ever seen.
View attachment 1443984
One important point, is let new fluid settle in and recheck before buttoning up.
View attachment 1443985

Old did look ready to come out. A few more flushes with M1 ever 20K miles and it will come out clearI got a

Flushed transfer case with M1:
Looks like old fill plug was leaking a tiny bit, common when washer (gasket not replaced)
View attachment 1443986

Drain plug had minimal residue on magnet, about as good as I've ever seen.
View attachment 1443984
One important point, is let new fluid settle in and recheck before buttoning up.
View attachment 1443985

Old did look ready to come out. A few more flushes with M1 ever 20K miles and it will come out clear.
View attachment 1443987

I got an LX470 07 which has LSD in the rear DIFF. Do I have to use the special LSD DIFF oil or I can get away with the same oil in Front & Rear Diff and mid-transfer case? My car is at the shop right now for some maintenance and they said to bring in Toyota Transfer case oil and LSD diff oil.

 

[97 AZ LC]

I got an LX470 07 which has LSD in the rear DIFF. Do I have to use the special LSD DIFF oil or I can get away with the same oil in Front & Rear Diff and mid-transfer case? My car is at the shop right now for some maintenance and they said to bring in Toyota Transfer case oil and LSD diff oil.

You have to use LSD oil. There should be a sticker on the case that says this. Or you may be able to find an LSD additive instead.