Scored 2006 LC w/58K OMG Clean!

[2001LC]

I could not find the procedure in FSM for setting the stops. Where is it??

So just locked in DS, after repair, with about 2 threads showing for now.

PS was real PITA. Threads in LCA receptor were buggered (tech term) up bad. I tried and tried to get tool aligned for about an hour, just could get. Finally I took a break for dinner. Getting away form frustrating jobs always helps one gather thoughts. On returning I found a grinding stone just the right size in my tool box. Used the stone in thread to grind down first few bad thread. Then thread repair tap tool aligned easily and set this PS stop bolt and locked.

Test drove in parking lot, and got nice tight LH & RH turns without any rubbing.

 

[2001LC]

OK I know many will say why make a great looking rigs stance look ..well ugly.

Yep I put exhaust boom device (Flux Capacitor) back on. Fortunately PO had given me, and this was factory frame bolt mounts, so fishing nuts is not needed like in earlier 100 series. If I had some strange idle boom sounds, I be scratching my heads as to why. Installing I know rig as engineers had intended.

Yep I really took out the cool factor putting on running boards. But with good reasons: Plug empty bolt holes in body panels, protects rocker panels from grave damage and great place to store running boards (I've three sets lying around in backyard now).

Oh yeah put on running board and a set of close to stock tire size.

Now I know ride is as it should be, which helps in my evaluation & inspection.

But it did look so cool with big tires and running boards deleted. If I had front mud flaps I'd go with that in summer perhaps.

 

[WickedPickle]

I've found leaks on both PS & DS front drive shaft boots, which is so unusual at this mileage. Even more so since Dealer did both side rebooting then DS again. DS now needs reboot again (a third time) as I found a pin hole. PS side is still under review but looks like just needs clamp tightening. Hey, I final get to use my tool that you got me into @abuck99.

DS:
View attachment 1567442 View attachment 1567444
PS
View attachment 1567445

OK I know many will say why make a great looking rigs stance look ..well ugly.

Yep I put exhaust boom device (Flux Capacitor) back on. Fortunately PO had given me, and this was factory frame bolt mounts, so fishing nuts is not needed like in earlier 100 series. If I had some strange idle boom sounds, I be scratching my heads as to why. Installing I know I'm as engineers had intended.
View attachment 1568623

Yep I really took out the cool factor putting on running boards. But with good reasons: Plug empty bolt holes in body panels, protects rocker panels for grave damage and great place to store running boards (I've three sets lying around in backyard now).

Oh yeah put on running board and stock size (close) tires.
View attachment 1568624

Now I know ride is as it should be, which helps in my evaluation & inspection.

But it did look so cool with big tires and running boards deleted. If I had front mud flaps I'd go with that in summer perhaps.

Is the exhaust boom device a harmonic dampener? I don't seem to have that on my 2006 LC.

 

[2001LC]

Is the exhaust boom device a harmonic dampener? I don't seem to have that on my 2006 LC.

Yes, IIRC that is what it's called! Many have pulled them off.

 

[labcab]

I could not find the procedure in FSM for setting the stops. Where is it?? ...

Not much in the 2004 FSM available online. pg. 85:

 

[2001LC]

Not much in the 2004 FSM available online. pg. 85:

View attachment 1569292

Thanks @labcab, looks like alignment shops job to get set..

I love those single PDFs, so great for searches. By any chance do yo have a link for the complete FSM?
I would love to ad to my library, I've been hunting for 05 and 07 also!

I'm thinking last alignment which was done when oversize tires mounted at tires shop, adjusted stops nuts not set then. But Could have been PO did himself IDK.

Before I found knuckle stops loose, I noticed I couldn't make my U-turn as tight. I had them out from awhile, notice tire squeal in full turns. Now in full turns I'm not hearing tires squeal or rub, so good for now.

 

[2001LC]

While I R&R the knuckle stops I got a good look at rotors, pads, rack boots, ball joint boots, links, etc.. They look ok, not new but still in good serviceable condition.

That said regarding brakes, I'm going to adjust my driving style to overheat brake pads & rotors for test

The reason for this; Snowy's rotors and pads hand been replaced with OEM pads & after market rotors which tested fine. I did note one pad a little thin, good for maybe 10K to 20K more miles. Certainly not a service issue at that point, but I offer to do brake job while servicing bearings. Owner/buyer was concerned we'd delay time table, which was possible as big push was on and lots remaining to do. So we elected to let them be. During my test drive I had no issue whatsoever. But new owner did on his 2K mile drive home. He sent me a video of his steering wheel vibrating hard and visibly while going down hill. I'm thinking what in the world could be going on. Then I noticed something in video he sent me. RPM was reducing as speed drooped and wheel started vibrating. I stop by local Toyota Dealer and talked with master mechanic. First thing he asked me was: " were brakes hot".. Hum. He said; they sometimes see rotor show themselves as warped only when hot.

So I called new owner and asked if he used brakes going down hill to control speed. He said "yes". Some may say well that's
normal, for me it's not. In fact; while picking up Snowy I saw big-rig 18 wheeler used the run-a-way ramp. Drivers coming through Colorado's rocky mountain often over heat brakes by riding on down hill. So HWY department has installed ramp just for these drives that ride brakes.

I learned, long ago, to gear down going into down hill stretches. It's a game to see if one can get to bottom of pass without ever touching the brakes. This driving style is second nature to me, but not so to "flat-landers'". This style has saved my bacon more than once. Especially when on really bad ice. I don't even let foot of gas paddle, anticipated all control movements and making then very gradually on ice. Brakes are never touch in these condition, one will spin out just letting off gas on down ice condition.

But going back to my point about changing test drive. I'll now do a long down hill ride, riding my brakes to overheat, all be it foreign to me. As what happens is: shop do brake job don't always do a seating procedure. Then owner picks up and drives normal, coming to full stops. This will warp rotor most times, as it creates a hot spot when metal does not cool/kneeling evenly.

 

[2001LC]

Here something I don't like seeing, but so many do. It's pounding on ball joint receptor of knuckle to release ball joint. It's easier than pulling hub backing shield off, when one doesn't have a puller to fit in that small gap. But often time I'll see damaged ball joint boot from missing a swing. It also creates and uneven surface for ball joint boot to ride on, except-able, just not for me. It one place I almost always recondition surface.

Looking at hub flange and nuts, I see no sign of hub being removed. So again I may have virgin wheel bearing, so cool!

Front Stabilizer bushing look very good.

 

[2001LC]

Finally cleaned up engine bay and underside of front end.

So not to worry about drive belt, idler or tensioner bearing I pulled them off along with air box.

I cover all opens from removing air box with foil, to keep out soap & water.

I start out by lightly sprinkling water on battery then cover with baking soda to neutralize acid.

Didn't have any POR-15 cleaner decrease on hand so used some citrus cleaner.

Once power washing done, I made sure to get any water out of throttle body. I then cleaned with BG Throttle Body clean. Guy's this stuff is great, making short work of the cleaning. WOW is all I can say!

 

[2001LC]

Take a look inside:

And some full engine bay shot:

 

[SlowBuild]

Wow! Engine bay looks great! I’ll have to try that throttle body cleaner. I’ve been using CRC.

By any chance do yo have a link for the complete FSM?
I would love to ad to my library, I've been hunting for 05 and 07 also

I downloaded the 2004 FSM here on Mud recently but I’m not sure of the post. I’m on my phone now so I can’t confirm but it might be this:

See if this works...

Dropbox - COMPLETE.zip

Also, don't procrastinate, I won't leave it up for too many days....

The one I got, pages were all out of sequence so I printed, reorganized, and put them in a binder with sleeves. You could also reorder pages with Acrobat Pro but I was printing anyway so I didn’t bother. If the link doesn’t work let me know and I’ll try to find you one.

 

[2001LC]

Some picture before & after cleaning I'm now reviewing finding a few things.

I did find some cracking on power steering vacuum lines, these are a newer inspection point I've learned to do. These are not leaking, but is just a matter of time. If I disturb now, they'll then most likely leak.

Also found some chain wrench marks on crank pulley. I too use a chain wrench when pulling crank bolt, but I wrap with belt first. This way I don't mare teeth as done here. They're smooth at mare, so will not present problem, but hey wrapping is just one simple step.

Weep hole was clean.

Not much else remarkable in bay. I wiped on pulleys, belt and air box and it fired right up. I would have cleaned MAF, but ran out of cleaner last week.

I'll say the tension of drive belt tensioner felt great, like new.

 

[2001LC]

I'm looking for any clues as to condition of intake manifold gaskets, fuel injectors and fuel pressure regulator. This involves monitoring MPG, idle variances and visual inspection of intake gasket area.

I do see just a little oily look at head to intake, but it too little amount to make much of. I also noticed that same coolant hose to vacuum line clip broken, this one is so common.

First time I found a bad intake gasket the oil came up intake plastic plums ~4 to 6" from capillary action. This one does not have oil on intake plums.

Here a shot of that on The Redbaron before i cleaned or replaced gaskets. Notice dirty intake plums, the oil attracts dust.

 

[labcab]

Index of /ih8mud/FSM

The pages are out of order and a few are missing, but all the sections are at the link above. I downloaded them all because it seems like those sites never last long, but that one has been up for a while. I use it all the time to search and then go to my ‘98 hard copy. I haven’t seen any other years floating around.

Thanks @labcab, looks like alignment shops job to get set..

I love those single PDFs, so great for searches. By any chance do yo have a link for the complete FSM?
I would love to ad to my library, I've been hunting for 05 and 07 also!

I'm thinking last alignment which was done when oversize tires mounted at tires shop, adjusted stops nuts not set then. But Could have been PO did himself IDK.

Before I found knuckle stops loose, I noticed I couldn't make my U-turn as tight. I had them out from awhile, notice tire squeal in full turns. Now in full turns I'm not hearing tires squeal or rub, so good for now.

 

[2001LC]

THX.

Did some inspection of front end before pulling apart to service wheel bearing, Knuckles and front drive shaft boot. All components check out very good, sweet!

Started with driving test, noting any wonder on HWY, also does steering return to center after turns and general feel. All seem good.

Next step is visual inspection of components.

I look for any play in gears/teeth of steering rack, by looking between TRE arm and steering rack. This is difficult to see as rack boot cover the point where they meet. So I find a point on rack and one on TRE near end of boot and watch for play. With wheels on them off ground, I can also feel for play. Any play here indicates gears are failing and it's time to replace steering rack

I then inspect TRE & boot for play or tears.


I then check rubber mounting bushings of steering rack for rips. By having some turn steering wheel to one side then the other we can watch rubber bushings between rack & frame for rips. Video works in place of helper. Sorry I did get a very good picture of rubber bushings to share, but they looked like new void of any rips or even cracking.

In this video I'm looking at movement of rack while turn steering wheel slightly left then right repeatedly. These are rubber bushing with a metal core. The core is oval shaped inside to allow for side to side movement.

Here we see normal movement of a Steering Rack with only ~17K miles on it.

 

[2001LC]

Next test was for D to N to R clank/clunk. No noticeable audible clunk noted with The Black Knight, very sweet!

Test of play looks good with just a tiny bit of play between front drive shaft and tire. This indicate some very minor wear of teeth of hub flange & axle. This is acceptable when take with no audible clunk. Loose wheel bearing and wide gap of hub flange snap ring may come into play here.

 

[jerryb]

Hum. He said; they sometimes see rotor show themselves as warped only when hot.

Not trying to cause a stir, I just thought that was the most silly thing I've heard in a long time. This is just another opinion, for example.
-Warped- Brake Disc and Other Myths

 

[2001LC]

Tearing down wheel hub, I did find wheel bearings were indeed virgin. Thy'd not been seen since the factory installed them.

Bearings had 59K miles without being serviced, 30K is recommend interval. Pulling & pushing hub in & out I noted movement, which indicates bearings were to loose. We should never have play here. This rig had over sized beefy tires, which requires we keep bearing at upper limit (15lb) of breakaway preload (very tight). It was the off road guys that first made mention to me, that tight wheels are needed for over-sized tires. Oversize tires would have accelerated the bearing loosening, which all bearing do over time regardless of tire size.

Interesting factory had three paint marks on adjusting nut of PS and two marks on DS. Locking ring tabs where fold tights leaving minor tooling marks on hub.

Lock and adjusting nuts had large side out, flat in. This lends itself to sure footing on claw washer and a good grip with 54mm socket for torque on the nuts.

This claw washing scoring is not to bad. Had maintenance schedule been followed I doubt we'd see this. Had over size tires not been put on these under-serviced wheel bearings, I'd doubt we'd see as much scoring. I'd go further to say; it's not a bad idea to reset preload on NEW bearings & races after 5K miles, especially if running on over-sized, thick side-wall, knobby tires. though in a lift and wheel spacer and you'd be well served to servied wheel bearing more than frequently the 30K miles.

All bearings, races & spindle I'm happy to report looked like new, Sweet!

You can still see some factory grease is clear, where there's no movement.

 

[2001LC]

I know Exxon makes many of our lubes. I wonder did they make the factory wheel bearing grease.

I also pulled the knuckles. Something I like do on my first wheel bearing service of any rig. In this case a bit of over kill, but procedure is still followed.

I like to clean, inspect and recondition knuckle as needed. After first time I just lube axle bushing and bearing with my Slee spindle tool. Part of recondition aside form bearing and bushing inspection, I de-rust as needed, and flatten surfaces that ball joint boot seat on. These surface get damaged (warped) sometime when BFH is used to beat-off ball joint(s), something I do not do.

Rusting between knuckle and Dust Cover is always found. It is the reason I always grease this area during assemble. In-fact this is where I first started grease to prevent or retard the onset of rust. I've considered putting a gasket here as well, but have yet to try that. Factory uses a Dust Cover Gasket on inside (between Dust Cover & Oil Seal) that would work prefect, added thickness should not present a probablem but is untested. De-rusting the hole for the wheel speed sensors and greasing-up, ensure sensor will not get frozen in here.

Clean out old grease and inspected bushing and needle bearing, they looked very good.

In this case rust was so light it came off easy, and no pitting found in knuckle. Looked like new when done.

 

[2001LC]

New seals go in knuckles before install.

You can see I grease up all areas that are bare metal and those that contact bare metal during assemble, even gaskets and seals. The blue grease is marine grease, the red is M1 synthetic wheel bearing grease #2.