Scored 2006 LC w/194K AHC (untouched Jewell restoration)

[2001LC]

Removing front bushing took about 15 minutes including tooling up. Air tool made short work of it. Having on bench made this easy, and reduced damage to aluminium front cover bushing holder socket.

Working side to side worked well just like with steering rack bushing, with minor score with tool to get started. Sweet!

 

[Luke111]

Your attention to detail is over-the-top and extremely thorough. Makes me want to go out and follow everyone of your steps today .....it's a must read for anybody buying an older Land Cruiser or LX470 for that matter everyone of your restoration projects is.

Lou

 

[2001LC]

Your attention to detail is over-the-top and extremely thorough. Makes me want to go out and follow everyone of your steps today .....it's a must read for anybody buying an older Land Cruiser or LX470 for that matter everyone of your restoration projects is.

Lou

Thank you, these kind words are so nice to hear. I like to help and have been termed a fixer by those that have known me in my life.

When you see what I've coming next, well everyone will drool. It's going to be my biggest project yet, it's so cool

 

[2001LC]

See post 178 - 181 which I edited to get to this point.

I cleaned up aluminium socket to prepare for new bushing.

 

[2001LC]

After some attempts to press-in with clamps & wood, I headed to parts store for a press. I found one by taking bushing with me to match up size. I also pick up a secondary kit that had a bottom piece just the same size as bushing cups inner rim. This was to reduces stress on diff cover bushing socket while pressing in.

I took my time getting started to get perfectly lined up. Used my brass dowel tapping in/up on low/deep side to square up.

Once started in squarely I just cranked it down. It gave back extra resistance the last ~3/8 inch to seat.

 

[2001LC]

The number 3 cross-member supports bushing arm of the front differential DS tube. This is a spot that has been bothering me. The one's I've seen and this one all have one thing in common: No paint at contact/bolt points.

At first I was thinking just leave well enough alone, but that "leave well enough alone" is troubling.

Toyota must have painted the frame & cross-member, so it's rubbed off. This indicate movement of a brace that holds support arm that has a rubber bushing for movement/cushion of differential. Further movement here could yield a clunk or strange sound any time force is applied to the front drive-train through differential N to D, N to R, acceleration etc.

I also notice some wear in bolt holes. So I checked on cost of new OEM and it is pricey $500. The reason it's so pricey it's sold with the two frame pieces which are wielded to frame. The cost to have frame work done is high for sure. All in all the cost out weighs the reward of reducing a potential noise.

So what I did was use three coats POR-15 on frame and on No. #3 cross-member. I let POR-15 cure for a week before putting together so they would not fuse together making future removable impossible without a cutting torch. Then I torqued the four nuts & bolts to 59ft-lbf (FSM is 50FT-lbf). I packed bolt holes/bolts with marine grease but kept contact surface dry.

 

[2001LC]

Hose of breather tube were a little brittle, which removing caused some cracking and loosened. So I replaced with 1/4" fuel hose.

Interesting Mr T used a thinner walled breather hose from Diff to metal tube, IDK why?

I replaced the bottom puck also as paint was gone and some wear but this was over the top (not necessary)

 

[2001LC]

Seal were next. It's not necessary to replace differential seals when using the same front drive shaft, but I am. This is just to make sure they seat with new front drive shafts (CV's).
After cleaning & applying gear lube to area I put in new seals. Do not forget cleaning and oiling it's important.

I use old seal as tool to seat new.

I seated a little to far in, so used my tool to gently pry out.

Careful not to pry on seals rubber, as you can see my tool only contacted metal

Perfect

 

[2001LC]

Make sure to start at post # 178, then again #184- #188 as I've edited and add all new content.
Worth Repeating; I made sure seal was seating in perfectly clean area then applied oil to seal and differential seats before pressing in new seals.
Had this cleaner handy, so I tried it. Work!

I then add new OEM upper pucks and installed Front Differential. I found putting in front bolt (at cover of diff for this bushing) then rear bolt best for me.

The three coats of POR-15 on No. #3 cross-member & frame, did make installing difficult as it now fit very tight. But with plastic mallet and patients it was possible to install. I then torqued the four bolts to ~59ft-lbf (FSM is 50ft-lbf)

Very important to align the match marks (place before disassembly) when attaching forward propeller shaft to differential flange.

 

[2001LC]

Here a few more shots of the install.

 

[2001LC]

Front shock were next. I first flushed the shocks ( a tip from @PADDO ), sure enough found contaminates.

Using shock like a syringe to suck AHC fluid into then out of to flush. As you can see the white back ground of the plastic jar made containment's easy to see .

 

[2001LC]

Removing front shock with all 4 wheels off the ground (in a hurry, getting behind) I forgot to release pressure at accumulator or any globe as FSM recommended. Fortuitously I had a catch tub under shock area. Lost about 300ML.

Found some issue on DS at top of shock tower (frame) with corrosion. So I Cleaned for four hours (hate that) with wire brush, solvent, POR cleaner, POR metal prep. Then I painted with POR-15, allowing two days to cure. I also replaced upper bottom retainer (sets on top of tower).

First coat POR-15 on DS tower of three, did both DS & PS top & bottoms.

Also POR-15 on retainers and such.

 

[2001LC]

Made sure drain the 4 holes are open in top bracket.

Again using shock like a syringe, I filled with fresh fluid on bench. Then fitted retainers & new cushions, I then placed in towers and torqued down main top nut with 7/8ths SAE wrench (all I had) then topped fluid once installed.

Messy job but someone had to do it

 

[2001LC]

Now for the center piece of bottom end rebuild. The front drive shafts.
Two keys here: 1) point snap ring down, 2) grease lip of seal.

Grease holds inner snap ring put for install plus a little on teeth and seal contact areas sure aid in install. I like to line up snap ring with clamps end on top for reference during install.

Giuding drive shaft axle in carefully so not to damage seal or dust cover. just slight twisting axle as I guide in. I find having transfer case engaged aids in lining up teeth of axle. A few snaps inward using in out action of drive shaft CS and it seats. To insure shaft is all the way in I look to see dust cover is just in tube/differential.

 

[abuck99]

Looking good Paul-

 

[2001LC]

Looking good Paul-

Thanks, pats on the back are welcome!

BTW: I found a drive belt in my used parts, we can install on your rig as a test

Tip: Notice rag under drive shaft, it protects the dust cover seal from being bent.

 

[2001LC]

Installed the front stabilizer bar an links next. I bought a GearWrench set just for this, work well

 

[2001LC]

I put a little POR on forward inside bracket for links, as factory paint worn off as usual.

As you can see I marine grease during install. I do this as area under cushion is a moisture trap and as a lube where paint worm off. Only time will tell if a good idea. I figure only auto rubber can handle grease so not concerned with that. Second concern is cushion move to much. So far on other links, like my 01 it's worked well and cushion held in place.

old

 

[2001LC]

Working on Knuckle next cleaning, inspecting & install. (I'm so tried of cleaning).
Cleaned, oiled (to prevent rust) wiped with lint free rag and blown clean of dust with compressed air.

I press grease into axle needle bearing also covering brass bushing and area with grease. But not to much grease or makes final step of wheel bearing job "snap ring gap test" difficult.

Squarely placing seal to start is key to easy installation. Then a few wacks and seal seats.

Then place in bag to protect form dust until I have wheel bearings ready for instillation. Clean clean clean

 

[bucfl]