Scored 2006 LC w/194K AHC (untouched Jewell restoration) (1 Viewer)

[2001LC]

did you use the original factory heater T clamps, or did you purchase new ones? I just recently got new hoses and T's but wasn't sure if I needed new clamps. I have seen other members going with different style of clamps as well.

I did use original factory clamps & hoses. I rarely find coolant hoses bad, and have never found clamps bad.

The two times in the past I found hose bad;
One was from electrolysis on a 07LC (Redbaron):

The other I believe was from running hot or over heating over an extended period of time.
I've used ASS Screw clamps for over-sized brass Tees on a field fix with old swollen hoses. If hoses are swollen it's best to replace them, and use factory clamps. Notice swollen DS hose on this flied fix.
This was 98LX w/300 and head gasket leak:

I was recently looking over a mud members rig I'll be working on. He did use all new hoses, clamps & Tee's. Interesting he showed signs of leaking. I recommended he clean them up. Sometimes with old or new they will weep a bit at first but should stop.

Here is something interesting I observed with these old Tee's. The Tee on driver side (DS) is always in the worst condition as it is subjected to the most heat as coolant comes from engine. Interesting no coolant in this DS hose or Tee as I drained coolant weeks early, but yet Tee is still moist. This is probably due to coolant between Tee & hose in front of clamps. As it dried the color changed to brown and cracks became visible on DS only. It still did not crumble, I even tried to snap in half. This is amassing as I believe they are originals from factory.
Old DS just after removal:

Old DS a few hours later

 

[2001LC]

Manged to get rear coil spring installed today. I use a coil compression tool rather than disconnecting the AHC sensor for DS, PS was a piece of cake. The tool was giving fits, until I used a pair of vise grips to keep compression tool from slipping.

 

[2001LC]

I also manged to rebuild the rear stabilizer system today,

New cushions and spacers are very tight. A clamp and socket made short work of pressing in.

Once I placed bushing on the bar, I loosely secured rear bushing mounts with bolts to differential. I'll come back and torque bolts last, this makes handling during install easier at other securing points.

 

[2001LC]

I then assembled the links, securing to new bracket.

Old brackets weren't bad, but did have spot of blister (scaling) rust, which I've seen most every time. So naturally I got out the marine grease, in hopes of increase life of new OEM components.

 

[2001LC]

I keep looking at that starter with intake manifold off which is normal half the labor of replacement. But with the AI pump assemble & hoses needing removal to pull starter, I don't like to touch. I've seen more than one report in mud of doing starter replacement, then buttoning up only to have AI fail shortly thereafter. It concerns my the AI doesn't like being disturbed. For me I just wait for failure do both at same time rather than PM, but I wrench. If not for AI pump in there I would just rebuild/replace starter at current mileage while in there.

Before:

Now:

As you can see above I've been cleaning head intake port gasket surface.
I've also been cleaning intake manifold in as I wait for fuel injectors from FIS.
I swabbed out intake manifold with gasoline soaked micro fiber rag (lint free). I hate cleaning with gasoline but should be safe on these internal parts.

Found green scratch pad of sponge useful for fuel injector port clean after solvent, power wash and HP air cleaning.

 

[2001LC]

Waiting on fuel injectors and contemplating replacing starter & AI pump. Where in none VVTi engine the rear bolts of starter are PITA, it looks much worst with the AI swiches in the way. Then you must remove all the AI stuff from valley to remove starter. This means a lot more labor and parts. Also must buy whole solenoid for ~$100 as contact points and plunger for $35 are not sold separately for starter, so cost goes up. Better off just just going with rebuilt Denso Starter on this IMHO. It as good as new they say with all new parts expect armature.

So I did a little more lite work while waiting & contemplating;

Re torqued 18 head cover bolts to 53inch pounds. They all turned nicely (no binding) about a 1/4 to 1/2 a turn. Also as note early there was no oil in spark plug tube.

Installed a new fuel filter toque to 28ft.lbf I was using 30mm fulcrum with crows foot which is very much like the SST, as it happens my hand hits just right at 30mm on torque wrench, but I like the extra 3lbs torque anyway.

I've seen it said in mud not to oil or grease threads as one may over torque. I don't believe this to be true, In fact if thread are dry one will more often under torque from binding or friction. I bring this up here because you can see FSM recommends oil on threads.

 

[2001LC]

Had one missing fastener that just arrived for a threshold. I'll bet it's been missing since DVD install 11 years ago.

New bolt for trailer hitch came in as well.

Cleaned rust out of hook. It was the main moisture trap that caused bolts to freeze so after cleaning I packed with what else.... Marine grease.

Coated all the bolts as well.

As I coat all bolt holes, being extra careful to not grease entire mounting surface, something @Layonnn brought my attention to. Thank you my friend.

 

[2001LC]

The decision was made to replace starter & AI pump. So now instead of button up top end of engine, I've moved to front end. Front end will be a big job and the most I've ever torn down at one time.

Started with draining the front differential. Magnet looked good, which I cleaned and inspect with/on towel for metal.

Moved on to wheel hubs next.
This grease cap is not serviceable as it will not hold back water entry...trash. This is someones handy work with a screw drive or chisel. I just use channel locks and do so with lite touch, they last nearly forever that way.

Snap ring gap was wide by .05 at 0.25mm on DS, and by .10mm on PS at 0.30mm (max gap is .20mm). I inspect as I go for two reasoned 1) To get idea on condition from and competence of tech on last wheel bearing service. 2) To get idea of what size snap ring I'll need so I can get ordered.

This looks like factory original as it is standard size of 2.2mm. IDK if it my micrometer or the rings is off from stated, as I always come in just below stated ring thickness.

I inspect parts as I go, those that I can without thoroughly cleaning.
This snap ring is bad as I can see scoring form pound by axle teeth. Snap ring need sharp square angles with no remarkable markings or they are trash.

 

[2001LC]

I also did a video test earlier to get idea of hub flange to axle teeth free play. Not to bad but as you can see it does have some play.

I'm holding dive shaft with my foot as I rotate wheel back and forth. This one tells me the hub teeth are worn bud not to bad. It's about what I expected to see. It do or did (we'll see soon) have very mild N to D clunk, what I'd call normal for mileage. I do however feel had wheel bearings been properly service every 30K miles I would have seen less play.
.

 

[2001LC]

Anyway As i move through tear down I see a little rust color on axle. Now keep in mind my camera highlights the color it's not really as bad as it looks. But this confirms grease cap wasn't doing is't job. Teeth of axle need thorough cleaning before I can see if worn.

Axle needle bearing & brass bushing have not been grease since the factory put this rig together, as yellow grease seen on axle here indicates.
Factory yellow grease.

The double seal design did its job protecting the axle bearing & brass bushing, as it is still yellow after 194K miles..... impressive seal & grease.....

Once knuckle off it gives good chance to test UCA bushing and these are tight. I''l have a job pulling in place during install. Ball joint felt nice and stiff.

 

[2001LC]

Stabilizer links look about like I thought they would. Not broken yet, but only a few more year left on them.

Now the bolt holding them to the LCA are impressive.

I noticed the front of links at mount of LCA arm is worn more at front side, it fact rubber has yielded to metal on both DS & PS.

 

[2001LC]

I went ahead and put drain plug back in front differential with new gasket (washer) I always use new washer on every drain an fill plug then torque to spec. They never leak this way.

Now with wheel hub & knuckle off I knock the DS axle out of the differential. It take about 5 good wacks on my brass dowel with a 5lb sledge to pop loose.

 

[2001LC]

Same condition of bolts lower front shock mount, impressive.

Starting to open up.

 

[2001LC]

Headed over to PS to tear down next. Notice where I hung brake caliper. I've hug from a string off strut tower or some suspension component for years, this time I needed new spot as everything is coming out. Also note the back pad is a little thin at 4.5mm. That can last me 30K miles the way I drive, which takes to next wheel bearing service. So I'm going to leave pad and rotors alone. Rotors are 32mm thick, limit is 30mm so one or two machining turns more mat be possible.

Link on this PS was just like DS with wear at front of mount point.

PS steering rack boot has lost some stiffness at front but no holes or cracks. This just needs watching over the years. If plastic boot ever does crack replacement boot for $20 would be necessary. It could last forever or go a year from now, no way to know but not worth replace yet. If it ever gets a crack or hole water/dirt can enter which may have effect on seal over the long run.

Part of seal at back of knuckle "the spring retainer" came apart at some point in it's history but again seals did there job, Kudos Mr T.

 

[2001LC]

Video inspection of front differential reveal some softness but no cluck. I'd say normal and serviceable, but over next 100K it will most like loosen more and clunk.

Oh, notice the sound of pulleys in this older video. It's pre replacement of all pulleys & bearing of Timing & Drive belt. Can't wait to fire up an see how Snowy sounds now.


I'm going to refresh all differential bushings, so I pulled it. Looking pretty empty under front end, most I've ever pulled at one time.

UCA & LCA bushing felt tight so no worries there. Lower a bit harder to get read on, as torsion bar is on. But at this spot not much tension to interfere with inspection of LCA bushings.

Shop is full of old and new parts, going have some fun and will be very busy for awhile.

BTW: All ball joints felt good. The lowers are the loosest (spin test) but nothing remarkable. I've never found a used ball joint that passed FSM test yet, but yet not had a failure. So tough call on lowers replace or not?

 

[abuck99]

If the LBJ boots are good and not leaking- Id prob move on to next project unless the rig plans to see a lot of offroad in its future. I might refresh in that case.

PS, inside brake pad has some uneven wear towards the bottom- Is that due to a sticking piston on or typical?

 

[2001LC]

If the LBJ boots are good and not leaking- Id prob move on to next project unless the rig plans to see a lot of offroad in its future. I might refresh in that case.

PS, inside brake pad has some uneven wear towards the bottom- Is that due to a sticking piston on or typical?

BJ boots are very stout, no rips and full of grease by the feel of them. They move freely with no remarkable play, so I'm moving on.

I'll keep my set of 555 on the shelve for you @abuck99

I'll need to look at that pad again. That may just be optical tick of camera angle. I rinsed off caliper with a can of brake cleaner, but haven't reinspected yet.

If caliper has issue I may tear down, but plan did not include pads or turning rotor at this time. I'm may need to revisit that before doing wheel bearings. As I always have rotor turned or replaced with new pads. This would tie the garage at bit longer then I'd hoped. So I'm going to have to see something that is really concerning at this point. Typically I'd just wait for brake pads to hit limit. That pad may make 30K, so that's ideal timing for a DIY, as wheel bearings would be due. If pins need refresh, it should be no big deal to keep pads.

These brakes felt a little grabby to me, but need to test drive again now. One thing I noticed in Service History of Snowy, is all pads done ~30K miles ago. Yet rear pads looked to thick for that amount of miles. I found both salve pins of rear frozen and replaced, plus replaced the boots. It may be rear brakes were (not braking well) issue of grabby, but I will give a good look at fronts. Hope it not a

 

[2001LC]

I was able to R & R front bushing a Differential yesterday. Having diif on bench really made the job go smoothly. Had I been prepared with tools I could have done in 45 minutes then had Diff back in. The day itself was full of interruption as it was my B-day, parts & tool run and transporter issues for my newest project now on it's way.

So I did not get far as I'd planned and today will be more of the same.

I posted the Diff procedure here:
Front diff bushing replacement?

I may post in here as well, as time permits.

 

[2001LC]

I pulled the front Differential out of Snowy to make R&I of front bushing easier. I had front drive shaft out and was pulling all bushing so not much more to just pull it out. So out it can.

First thing was to put match marks on forward propeller shaft to front differential flange, so's not to assemble out of phase.
Look close and you'll see two punch match marks:

The front diff bushing was not torn all the way yet, but on it's last leg.

 

[2001LC]

I started by burning out the bushing, something I saw in above thread. It was report int made removable easier when doing while in vehicle. I don't think this was need in hindsight, at least not in case with differential on bench. It just took up my time! But until I try one without burning IDK.