Scored 2006 LC w/194K AHC (untouched Jewell restoration) (1 Viewer)

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I'd had a report from Snowy's new owner of a drive belt squeal, that happen one time. This seem strange as Drive belt tensioner had good back force tension, not new but as good as I see at half the mileage. Also the tensioner bearing and idler pulley/bearing had been replaced and drive belt was in good condition.

A first thought was the bearings either the National 203-FF tensioner replacement bearing or idler Hayden 5021 pulley/bearing was failing. I don't have long term test on these, as I've only used them for about a year now. We also have one member that report issue with the Hayden. IIRC, he noted some play (wobble) in the Hayden assembly, new that worsened with time. It is possible that was a fluke, or just not seated properly during install (seating issue happens to me often with idler).

But upon speaking with Snowy's owner I mention, "we'll get belt squeal when the drive belt gets wet", like when washing engine. That getting bearings wet will cause damage if seals are failing also. So I; protect, avoid or remove these during engine washing's. He then recalled; he been driving in the rain when it happened. The condition has not reoccurred to my knowledge since. Had this been bearings or tensioner they should be worst by now, and at minimum revealed themselves when cold (before engine warm up) if nothing else.

This leads me to believe the squeal was indeed a wet belt condition. Possible more apparent with older drive belt tensioner (weakening). But I drive in the rain and just did for two hour across the great Salt Lake of UT while on road trip home with The Black Knight. So Why did Snowy have issue in the rain and I not heard on my test drives or in The Black Knight or The King which also was driven on HWY for hours in the rain on Road trip from San Antonio a few years ago!

The answer may be the foam pad that is located between the radiator and skid plate. Some may recall in post #27 here, item #26 of "On what needs attention" I made mention of this foam pad and how it rusted out the skid plate (replaced due to rust). I also link below thread to item #26, noting I would not be replacing the foam rust creator. Is this necessary- Skid plate foam pad? I've always felt Toyota Tech support's explanation (in writing) to me. That it's a vibration damping device was inaccurate. I've always felt Toyota engineers had atleast other reason for it. Number one being to help direct air flow through radiator for cooling.

Now I'm thinking it (Foam Pad) could help keep moisture off lower end of engine i.e. the drive belt.


Every one of these Foam pads I've inspected have broken down and hold water. Some just fall apart, and all the aged ones absorb water. This foam is holding water as it breaks down, which is causing our skip plates to rust out. So over last two years I just stop replacing them, to reduce PM going forward (preserve the skid plate).


Here is one I replace in 2013 on The King. I also drill some small holes (painting afterwards) as water weeps.
TLC Skid Plate AKA undershield #1 & Coolant Packing 005.jpg


These foam pads, as they break down over time, absorb water holding it like a sponge. I real bad rust promoter.
3 Old series 100 TLC water test Coolant Packing 88578-60100 003.jpg

Here you can see how new foam pad repels water.
4 New series 100 TLC water test Coolant packing 88578-60100.jpg

They cost is only $20 or $30 for the foam, where new OEM skid plates fetch a much higher price from Toyota/lexus.
1 2001TLC Coolant Packing 88578-60100 002.jpg


So here are some questions:
Doesn't this foam really help unwanted water entry into lower engine area while driving or washing?

Is it better to get longer maintenance free life from skid plate by removing and not replacing old foam pads?
Or should we add replace of foam pad (Packing, coolant 88578-60100) as a PM, and how often?

The King 's was replaced 4 years ago and still seem fine. So Id say if replacing check ever 4 years to see if water still repels as the PM test.

2 Used & new series 100 TLC Coolant Packing 88578-60100 004.jpg
 
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Paul- I dont think the skid plate foam packing has much if any impact on diverting moisture from the accessory belt. My thought of its function is a wind dam to divert the flow of air upward to the radiator if anything. In the rain, or wet roads there's lots of draft coming form many directions that the foam would probably have little or no effect on relative to the accessory belt. The belt squeal, like I noted to you on my truck is probably related to the tensioner loosing its spring rate and not holding the belt at optimal tension.
 
Paul- I dont think the skid plate foam packing has much if any impact on diverting moisture from the accessory belt. My thought of its function is a wind dam to divert the flow of air upward to the radiator if anything. In the rain, or wet roads there's lots of draft coming form many directions that the foam would probably have little or no effect on relative to the accessory belt. The belt squeal, like I noted to you on my truck is probably related to the tensioner loosing its spring rate and not holding the belt at optimal tension.
In your case the tensioner is for sure the issue. On The Black Knight the tensioner nearly took my finger off removing belt with it's spring back pressure. Not like yours needing to be pushed back into position.

But with The King, the back pressure was equal to Snowy's as was belt and bearings of pulleys. The only difference was the foam pad being in place on The King and not on Snowy, Deductive reasoning!:idea:

It's one of the reason I like systems to factory spec, as it creates open question when not. But here we have two near identical factory spec stock rigs. Nearly as one being and 01 the other and 06, which have slight difference in front bumper design. The exception is the foam pad.

I'm advising Snowy's foam pad be replaced, it squealing during rain repeats or concerning. Then if rain induced squeal repeats afterwards, it would indicate new tensioner needed.
 
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In your case the tensioner is for sure the issue. On The Black Knight the tensioner nearly took my finger off removing belt with it's spring back pressure. Not like yours needing to be pushed back into position.

But with The King, the back pressure was equal to Snowy's as was belt and bearings of pulleys. The only difference was the foam pad being in place on The King and not on Snowy, Deductive reasoning!:idea:

It's one of the reason I like systems to factory spec, as it creates open question went not. But here we have two near identical factory spec stock rigs. Nearly as one being and 01 the other and 06, which have slight difference in front bumper design. The exception is the foam pad.

I'm advising Snowy's foam pad be replaced, it squealing during rain repeats or concerning. Then if rain inducted squeal repeats afterwards, it would indicate new tensioner a good but more costly/timely replacement.
Fair enough- it will be interesting to know how that works out.
 
Not sure if anyone else has asked this yet, but I'm very curious as to why you go to such great lengths to restore these cruisers to like new condition. You unquestionably do a remarkable job with it all. Are you flipping them for a profit? If not, I thought the whole point of getting these things is because they run reliably and need little maintenance. Watching you tear down this 2006 and replace so many parts that probably had another decade of life in them just seems unnecessary, unless of course you're trying to sell it back at brand new price!

What am I missing?
 
Not sure if anyone else has asked this yet, but I'm very curious as to why you go to such great lengths to restore these cruisers to like new condition. You unquestionably do a remarkable job with it all. Are you flipping them for a profit? If not, I thought the whole point of getting these things is because they run reliably and need little maintenance. Watching you tear down this 2006 and replace so many parts that probably had another decade of life in them just seems unnecessary, unless of course you're trying to sell it back at brand new price!

What am I missing?


Though I don't know exactly what the OP do with these vehicles, he does take pride in restoring them and the results show. For some of us, it's the journey itself and not the destination. I enjoy working on my rig, rusted bolts and all but I enjoy wrenching on it and gets the satisfaction that it is done right.
 
2002TLCyes said:
Not sure if anyone else has asked this yet, but I'm very curious as to why you go to such great lengths to restore these cruisers to like new condition. You unquestionably do a remarkable job with it all. Are you flipping them for a profit? If not, I thought the whole point of getting these things is because they run reliably and need little maintenance. Watching you tear down this 2006 and replace so many parts that probably had another decade of life in them just seems unnecessary, unless of course you're trying to sell it back at brand new price!

What am I missing?




Think the simplest answer to that question is- he does it to fund a hobby, selling to buyers who would like to own a like-new 2006 truck at less than half of the original price. ;)
 
Also some people like fixing s*** before it breaks, instead of after. You know it’s called preventative maintenance.
 
What would you charge for something like this, after you're done with it, assuming you don't touch the main components like the transmission and engine, which would still have almost 200,000 miles on them?

I have to think despite how pretty the body might look, and despite changing out all little things, the 200k mileage on the drivetrain must take a toll on the price. Or do you rebuild the tranny and motor also?
 
Not sure if anyone else has asked this yet, but I'm very curious as to why you go to such great lengths to restore these cruisers to like new condition. You unquestionably do a remarkable job with it all. Are you flipping them for a profit? If not, I thought the whole point of getting these things is because they run reliably and need little maintenance. Watching you tear down this 2006 and replace so many parts that probably had another decade of life in them just seems unnecessary, unless of course you're trying to sell it back at brand new price!

What am I missing?
Read:Buying, PM & Advance Maintenance of 100 series. , Scored a 2007 Unicorn. The holy grail of 100 series. and a few of my threads and I think you'll understand.

As for comment "I thought the whole point of getting these things is because they run reliably and need little maintenance"
These 100 series are tanks, and do run very reliable. But owners often make that same mistake as you. Fact is they will last forever as long as you maintain according to the PM schedule. Something needs done every 5K to 7k miles depending on driving condition. I've seen and worked on a few that were run into the ground, only being worked on once needing to be towed in.

100 series will keep ticking when other run out of life. But all vehicles need maintaining. Even just setting (which these don't like for long) rubber gets old and parts rust and fluids go bad. Maintaining is key to reliably in the long run.

The 200 series is different in this respect, as it has less maintenance points. But has failures in parts we don't like most all vehicles today, that are pricey when they do. They're also more difficult to maintain just the little stuff. Don't get me wrong the 200 is very cool, it's just not a 100 series which is the last of it kind in respect to maintainable.


Though I don't know exactly what the OP do with these vehicles, he does take pride in restoring them and the results show. For some of us, it's the journey itself and not the destination. I enjoy working on my rig, rusted bolts and all but I enjoy wrenching on it and gets the satisfaction that it is done right.
It is the journey. Good way to put it!

2002TLCyes said:
Not sure if anyone else has asked this yet, but I'm very curious as to why you go to such great lengths to restore these cruisers to like new condition. You unquestionably do a remarkable job with it all. Are you flipping them for a profit? If not, I thought the whole point of getting these things is because they run reliably and need little maintenance. Watching you tear down this 2006 and replace so many parts that probably had another decade of life in them just seems unnecessary, unless of course you're trying to sell it back at brand new price!

What am I missing?




Think the simplest answer to that question is- he does it to fund a hobby, selling to buyers who would like to own a like-new 2006 truck at less than half of the original price. ;)
You know me well!
 
Also some people like fixing s*** before it breaks, instead of after. You know it’s called preventative maintenance.
That's me all the way. I'd never want to be sitting on side on the road.

I also want next owner to be happy. Not just the day they buy it, but for many years to come. Can I find everything that will come up NOO. But I try! I hate if anything goes wrong when I'm done and it's out of my control. But bottom line there is many many systems on these rigs, some just don't reveal themself timely to me.

What would you charge for something like this, after you're done with it, assuming you don't touch the main components like the transmission and engine, which would still have almost 200,000 miles on them?

I have to think despite how pretty the body might look, and despite changing out all little things, the 200k mileage on the drivetrain must take a toll on the price. Or do you rebuild the tranny and motor also?
I'm not a low low priced retailer, but a hobbies adding value. I also do extra work to client spec, that I'm very reasonable price on.

The engine and trany are the most rebust part of these 100 series. Trany's needs regular flushing, and engine's needs maintaining. But the 100 series 2UZ-fe engine has one of the very best long block ever built. No one knows how long they can last if properly maintained. I've yet to see one use oil or smoke and have only hear of a few trany failures. Will steering rack fail, yes. Will O2s wear out, yes. Will CATs fall apart, absolutely. Do bushing of differential, stabilizer, control arms, etc need replacing with age, absolutely. But even these components will last longer than most any vehicle on the road. Even when they fail it keeps running in most cases.

As long as we follow PM & maintain. Rust is are only concern IMHO, but even rust won't stop these rigs.
 
CATs, what's killing them!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:idea:

Coolant is number one killer of CATs. Just tiny droplets over time will accumulate in a CAT and kill it.

Poor workmanship perhaps of CATs or materials (metals). In 2005 a big push to reduce pollutants from metals and the process to form then into parts was enacted. I believe that's why the newer thermostats (have different parts number) are twice the cost of older one for the 2UZ-fe. My 01 cost ~$18, whereas my 07 cost $38. They look identical and are interchangeable.

Ok so we've those possibilities out of the way. Could both of those just be issues of 06 & 07? Possible!

So what else will kill a CAT.

How about operating slightly out of designed temp over the long run.?

On the Redbaron I found air/vacuum leaks at intake manifold gasket. Air/fuel ratio effects engine temp, to much air and engine exhaust gases run hot. ECU would work to compensate. To much air is known as a lean mixture. Redbaron's CAT's were ok, but I found issue and corrected, perhaps in time.

Fuel pump may be a cause of CAT failure:

Now on this 06LC with 194K it did have a CAT replaced, bank 1 ((IIRC that's DS (drive side)). Following history from Dealer records I found PO complained of engine dying while ascending I-70 into the Rocky Mountains. As he approached the Eisenhower tunnel about 50 miles west of Denver at tree line 12,500 ft ASL, the engine would die. He'd let it sit for awhile and it would then start. He reported this on more than 4 occasions. The Toyota Dealer (Stevenson, reportedly a good shop) tested fuel pump (45 PSI) and reported as good, with no DTC. Toyota shop mechanic took on test drive up to the tunnel with PSI gauge hooked up, along voltmeter to fuel pump "if I read correctly". They found no issues at 39K miles during these test by Dealer. At 96K miles P0400 DTC, BANK 1 CATS. CAT was replaced. At 97K miles Dealer replace fuel pump even though it tested in perfect working order at 39K and at 97K miles, nor could they duplicate engine stall issue. But for some reason Dealer keep coming back to fuel pump. Finally they replaced the fuel pump. Issue(s) did not/has not reoccur again, over next ~100K miles now.

On a side note: The shop I use here in Denver to clean, rebuild and test fuel injectors Fuel Injector Specialists - Home - Wheat Ridge, CO Had told a mud member recently, that the fuel pressure regulate weakens around 100K miles in series 100's and should be replaced. In his opinion it reduces MPG. I'll bet fuel PR still falls into spec range when tested to factory spec. So we've more indication we've a fuel pressure issue(s).
When to replace fuel injectors

I've also read, in mud, of issue with stalling when ascending (calling it vapor locking) in the Rocky Mountains and replacing fuel pump correcting. This is not the same as over topping fuel tank, filling charcoal canister with gas issue in the 03-07 models.


06LC Toyota Dealer notes:
7/14/08 39K MISC MAINTENANCE ~|~WHILE
DRIVING UP THE MOUNTAIN, ALL OF
A SUDDEN ON ACCELERATION,
THERE WAS NO RESPONSE,ENGINE
IDLED REAL ROUGH BUT WOULD
NOT ACCELERATE HAD TO PULL
OVER. SHUT AND WOULDNT
RESTART TWICE, 3RD TIME
STARTED AND RAN GOOD ~|~
~|~39767 RAN HEALTH CHECK ON
ALL COMPUTER AND FOUND NO
CODES PRESENT OR IN HISTORY.
RAN VEHICLE AND WATCHING DATA
LIST ALL PARAMETERS ARE
NORMAL. NO CODES FOUND

CEL DTC PO400 Bad Bank #1 CAT Replaced.
At time of 7/11/11 96K w/T-belt.
Customer complained of engine dying while ascending I-70 Eisenhower tunnel. Tech found nothing even check fuel pressure. Reported normal 45PSI.

8/3/11 97K Replaced fuel pump. Tech reported same:no codes, Pump PSI 45PSI & voltmeter test all OK.

My notes:
Issue resolved. Over next 100K miles no more issue with engine dying ascending I-70. No more P0400 DTC. CAT's & o2's fine.


I spray by hand from the bottle you see above, once loose dirt is blown off. It would be great to have de-greaser soap in my PR washer, but I don't have a soap that is safe to use in PR washer, wrong soap will kill the washer.


Thanks a bunch. I'll read through that link ASAP!:coffee:
So I seem to have this issue you referenced in this post:

"This is not the same as over topping fuel tank, filling charcoal canister with gas issue in the 03-07 models."

2006 LC. Pops a P0174 code only. I have searched endlessly, but am unable to find any specific reference to the problem you mention. It only happens post gas tank fill. If i reset codes it goes away till I fill up again. Do you remember where you read this? I'm in Denver and drive the passes frequently, no stalls, no stumbles, mpg is around 11 city, 14 hwy, idle is steady and not remotely rough, no power loss, no start issues. New gas cap, replaced cracked air intake box. Hoses look fine. I'll reset codes at 3/4 tank and they won't come back till I refill. I am curious about this filling charcoal with gas quote because it is one thing I have yet to read through.
 
So I seem to have this issue you referenced in this post:

"This is not the same as over topping fuel tank, filling charcoal canister with gas issue in the 03-07 models."

2006 LC. Pops a P0174 code only. I have searched endlessly, but am unable to find any specific reference to the problem you mention. It only happens post gas tank fill. If i reset codes it goes away till I fill up again. Do you remember where you read this? I'm in Denver and drive the passes frequently, no stalls, no stumbles, mpg is around 11 city, 14 hwy, idle is steady and not remotely rough, no power loss, no start issues. New gas cap, replaced cracked air intake box. Hoses look fine. I'll reset codes at 3/4 tank and they won't come back till I refill. I am curious about this filling charcoal with gas quote because it is one thing I have yet to read through.
Bank 2 only lean DTC P0174, and only after fill ups. Does not seem the same as what I wrote about.

If you're asking where I read about fill gas tank damaging CC. Read your owners manual. 03-up OM carry a warning: To not add addition fuel after gas pump handle auto shut off. Doing so may damage CC.

The 06-07 VVT have a couple if issues, that need attention:

1) Fuel pump. It was this 06 LC's service history, that first bought to my attention the fuel pump (FP) issue. Which FP Toyota used, was new smaller and first used in the 2006 100 series. They will usually produce lean DTC for both banks. To date I've only heard it happening during summer heat, after running in high RPM.

2) CAT (both) failure. One which I've developed a modification for.

If you'd like to stop by some day. I could look over your 06LC and we can talk. Just PM your ph & email and some info on your 06, and I'll respond!
 
Hi Folks.

After 7 excellent years of trouble-free ownership (a testament to @2001LC's handiwork) our beloved "Snowy" is available on the market.
She now has 273k miles, and in addition to the refurbishment outlined here- she's received the best proactive maintenance a cruiser could ask for, having invested an additional ~$11k in receipts since. Recently 3yr ceramic coated and needs nothing.

$22k. Located in TN.

Please DM for recent pictures, contact info and deeper detail.
Thanks.
 
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