Builds Saudi 75 1 - Tilda Bogue Service Station (1 Viewer)

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you put bigger calipers on but have the original bore MC. That will definitely contribute to a soft pedal.
Rear brakes adjusted tight enough? Does parking brake work?
 
If brakes are bled, then there should be equal pressure on both sides on the calipers. So the only other place to look would be the calipers themselves. They sell rebuild kits for them. I suspect one side is moving more freely than the other. Love the ute! Best of luck on mitigating this gremlin... :cheers:
They are new OEM calipers. Hopefully it’s just the non bled system.

I’ve been through 4 more bleeds and I still have air. Crazy. I’m stumped
 
you put bigger calipers on but have the original bore MC. That will definitely contribute to a soft pedal.
Rear brakes adjusted tight enough? Does parking brake work?
Yeah the parking brake works.

It’s not just soft it keeps going to the floor and I can get air every time I start the process.

They felt funky before I started this process so maybe the master has air. I never touched it.

Did you say T100 is a good upgrade?
 
I used the Motive Power bleeder when upgrading my brake system. I've had great success on all of my vehicles when bleeding brake or clutch fluid.
 
Yeah. I ordered a T100 master.

Motive bleeders are the best. I do so many brake jobs and never an issue.

We just tried to hand bleed. Thought we had it and then it would randomly get a soft pedal. When it did, if you stomped it the rears only locked up.

When working right it’s got amazing brakes. The randomness lets me think it’s a bad diaphragm in the master.

I’m over it.
 
Yeah. I ordered a T100 master.

Motive bleeders are the best. I do so many brake jobs and never an issue.

We just tried to hand bleed. Thought we had it and then it would randomly get a soft pedal. When it did, if you stomped it the rears only locked up.

When working right it’s got amazing brakes. The randomness lets me think it’s a bad diaphragm in the master.

I’m over it.
Sounds like the NOS master I got from the M.E. I was convinced since it was “new” I suck at bleeding brakes. Nope.

Please report how the T100 works. I think if I was aware of the T100 I would’ve sprung for that.

I have a weird thing about brake performance.
 
I used the Motive Power bleeder when upgrading my brake system. I've had great success on all of my vehicles when bleeding brake or clutch fluid.
Care to share what bleeder you're using for the 75?
 
Care to share what bleeder you're using for the 75?
I hope the T100 shares the same cap size. For 60s I have to use a universal adapter and it’s got to be installed perfectly not to leak

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Perform the gravity bleeding method and apply grease around the caliper brake screws to prevent air from entering or escaping. Give it a try
 
Perform the gravity bleeding method and apply grease around the caliper brake screws to prevent air from entering or escaping. Give it a try

I’m tabling the issue until the new master cylinder comes in Monday. 4 hours is enough time spent on this with suspect parts.
 
Did the brakes work before anything was done?
 
The ARB compressor under the bed is a big exposed but we made a nice removable splash shield that should do the job nicely unless of course it gets totally submerged.

The next set of lockers I do on a FZJ7x truck will be Harrops.

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@wngrog I had this same problem with my 61 when I replaced my calipers—bled and bled and bled and bled (w/ power bleeder) and the pedal just went straight to the floor. Turns out that I had a nasty air bubble stuck in my MC—A bench bleed fixed it. Looks like the parts cannon has been lit, but figured it was worth mentioning to potentially save some pain later on
 
The next set of lockers I do on a FZJ7x truck will be Harrops.

Is this because of the need for a compressor for the ARB air lockers or you think the Harrops are better / require less to engage?
 

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