SASing my 100 (2 Viewers)

[RustyLinkz]

Week whatever:

Diffs are done. 5.29s. Picking them up in Stockton tomorrow.

Working on steering now. Axle placement is roughly based on how well the 40” tire fits in the wheel well.
Approximately 114” wheelbase, roughly 2” longer than stock.

I knew I was going to run into some engineering issues when I built this new frame, and here we are. The steering box is much higher, and now the drag link will interfere with the oil filter. No biggie. There’s some UZ based oil filter relocation brackets available on eBay and such.
Does anyone have experience with these?

 

[RustyLinkz]

Rear axle pushed back ~1” and pinion angle corrected to ~3* utilizing metal tech’s adjustable upper and lower links.
I’ll double check the factory pinion angle off my dad’s LX470 and come back to set mine up again. Mine was at 8* with the Dobinsons C59-615V springs so I think I’ll be alright with how it is now.

Steering box is mounted, intermediate shaft built. I have a few support bearings to keep it steady that I’ll mount soon.

 

[RustyLinkz]

Now I’m looking to mount the lower links.
The trail tailor T-case crossmember is in the way of viable placements for lower links. After poking around I think I’ll French the lower link brackets into the cross member. Gives me a good length lower without it to far forward or aft. These were my considerations:
In order of pictures:
1. Frencher into the cross member
2. Behind the member
3. In front

Any critiques as why I shouldn’t French the brackets into the member?
I understand this will put a lot more stress on the 4 (each side) bolts mounting the cross member but it’s not uncommon to mount link brackets into cross members. The benefit is a good link length (~36”) and the ability to create some triangulation with the lowers, reducing stress on the panhard AND reducing my roll axis. Both positives IMO.

If the bracket is behind the member, the link will most likely contact under compression.

Too far forward gives me short links, approximately ~30”. That might induce unwanted binding.

 

[Trapper50cal]

Couldn't you just craft a drop pitman arm for the steering box?

 

[RustyLinkz]

Couldn't you just craft a drop pitman arm for the steering box?

I’ve considered it. I plan on welding a double sheer tab to the arm already, and maybe I’ll ad a small spacer to drop the heim further down. The problem is when the pass side is under full compression it’ll most likely contact the oil filter either way, drop arm or not. I’m not certain on this yet. My drag link and tie rod should be here in a week or so. I’ll mock it up when it’s here but using my PVC mock up tube, it was contacting.

 

[Rednexus]

FYI you may want to reconsider the steering shaft. The OEM has the accordion section that is designed to collapse in a head on collision and keep the steering wheel from being pushed into the face of the driver and killing/seriously injuring them. I think some folks will add a shear pin to serve the same function when DIYing a shaft for a custom application like this.

 

[RustyLinkz]

FYI you may want to reconsider the steering shaft. The OEM has the accordion section that is designed to collapse in a head on collision and keep the steering wheel from being pushed into the face of the driver and killing/seriously injuring them. I think some folks will add a shear pin to serve the same function when DIYing a shaft for a custom application like this.

Gotcha. I was wondering what the purpose of that was. Good catch, thanks.

 

[TrailBornRunner]

I haven't installed it yet, but I got this (Blake Machine - 1UZFE Lexus Oil Adapter - https://blakemachine.com/performance_parts_by_blake_machine/1uzfe_lexus_oil_adapter) with a Derale 35709 oil filter bracket, with -10AN lines. Have the same problem on the stock frame, steering sometimes smacks the oil filter.

 

[RustyLinkz]

I haven't installed it yet, but I got this (Blake Machine - 1UZFE Lexus Oil Adapter - https://blakemachine.com/performance_parts_by_blake_machine/1uzfe_lexus_oil_adapter) with a Derale 35709 oil filter bracket, with -10AN lines. Have the same problem on the stock frame, steering sometimes smacks the oil filter.

Awesome. That’s actually sitting in a box at my house. I might get that oil filter bracket as well if I can’t find a good place to mount the OE filter housing.
Working on link brackets now. Once the geometry is settled I’ll work on the accessory items; oil filter relocation, PS lines, hydro assist lines, brakes, etc.
Having issues placing the upper link bracket. I want my upper shorter than my lowers, but these 4 cats are a bitch to work around.

 

[RustyLinkz]

End of June update:

Geometry mocked up, 7075 aluminum links ordered, steering mocked, coil overs secured…

Got a rad deal on some fox 2.5 14” travel coil overs and 2.5 smooth bodies

Working on coil over mounts now.

 

[choyota]

End of June update:

Geometry mocked up, 7075 aluminum links ordered, steering mocked, coil overs secured…

Got a rad deal on some fox 2.5 14” travel coil overs and 2.5 smooth bodies

Working on coil over mounts now.

View attachment 3664796

View attachment 3664797

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View attachment 3664799

View attachment 3664800

Sexy! Make a kit!

 

[hoser]

See comments in red...

Are you going to reinforce the mounts on that Creeper Skidplate? (since you are using it as a suspension mount)
View attachment 3664796

The Tie Rod should be mounted on the inner most hole (closest to axle) for proper Ackerman angle. Hopefully, it'll clear the differential with the straight tubing. Otherwise, you might have to bend the tubing.

View attachment 3664798

If you need to drop the drag link down further, you can use any 60/70/80 drop pitman arm.

View attachment 3664800

 

[RustyLinkz]

See comments in red...

1. Bracing creeper skid plate:
I plan to but don't have ideas sketched out yet. Most of the forces the skid plate will see are compression forces and torsional forces (when the links are flexed out). If these assumptions are correct, I should gusset the inner frame bracket. Would it be prudent to make a flat plate welded to the OE frame bracket that would be sandwiched between the creeper skid plate? Two of the mounts are inside the tube frame, unlikely I can brace those.

2. Ackermann angle:
Time for more research. I have a tenuous grasp of understanding proper Ackermann angle/how to set it up. I've seen many similar set ups where the tie rod is out further forward. I also have a feeling the 2" OD rod won't clear the pumpkin if I have it mounted in further. I could use offset heims to give me more clearance or bring it to a shop that can bend the aluminum. Is it possible or common to bend 7075 solid stock?

3. Pitman Arm:

I have a plan for this. Because I'm using the 105 sector shaft/ pitman arm, I can't use the earlier series arms.
BUT I will try my hand at welding to, what I believe is forged steel, the pitman arm using a combination of preheat and gas-sheilded flux core welding to build a double shear system that also drops the mounting location of the tie rod down an inch. As you can see in the picture above, there is about a 1/2" gap between the misalignemnt spacer and the bottom of the pitman arm. If I increase that gap to a total of 1", I should have proper clearance to actually keep the factory oil filter AND the radiator fan+shroud. Maybe some very minor trimming to the bottom of the shroud but I think this plan will work. I also plan to use 3/8" or 1/2" steel to weld to the pitman arm.


@hoser I appreciate the detailed questions. It's helpful to get any insight possible. Let's me change my perspective on how to build things and opens my view to see the project from other angles.

 

[RustyLinkz]

Sexy! Make a kit!

If I had the tools I would. Making everything by hand sucks. I also wouldn’t feel comfortable with my lack of engineering knowledge to make something safe for other people’s use.

 

[GerLC100]

There‘ll be the day I grab a six pack, hop in mine and come up the 20min to RC to see the beast life

 

[Hotrodlarry]

FYI you may want to reconsider the steering shaft. The OEM has the accordion section that is designed to collapse in a head on collision and keep the steering wheel from being pushed into the face of the driver and killing/seriously injuring them. I think some folks will add a shear pin to serve the same function when DIYing a shaft for a custom application like this.

Two heim joints to form a Z will be perfectly safe. Add a heim joint to support the middle section.

 

[hoser]

1. Bracing creeper skid plate:
I plan to but don't have ideas sketched out yet. Most of the forces the skid plate will see are compression forces and torsional forces (when the links are flexed out). If these assumptions are correct, I should gusset the inner frame bracket. Would it be prudent to make a flat plate welded to the OE frame bracket that would be sandwiched between the creeper skid plate? Two of the mounts are inside the tube frame, unlikely I can brace those.

2. Ackermann angle:
Time for more research. I have a tenuous grasp of understanding proper Ackermann angle/how to set it up. I've seen many similar set ups where the tie rod is out further forward. I also have a feeling the 2" OD rod won't clear the pumpkin if I have it mounted in further. I could use offset heims to give me more clearance or bring it to a shop that can bend the aluminum. Is it possible or common to bend 7075 solid stock?

3. Pitman Arm:

I have a plan for this. Because I'm using the 105 sector shaft/ pitman arm, I can't use the earlier series arms.
BUT I will try my hand at welding to, what I believe is forged steel, the pitman arm using a combination of preheat and gas-sheilded flux core welding to build a double shear system that also drops the mounting location of the tie rod down an inch. As you can see in the picture above, there is about a 1/2" gap between the misalignemnt spacer and the bottom of the pitman arm. If I increase that gap to a total of 1", I should have proper clearance to actually keep the factory oil filter AND the radiator fan+shroud. Maybe some very minor trimming to the bottom of the shroud but I think this plan will work. I also plan to use 3/8" or 1/2" steel to weld to the pitman arm.


@hoser I appreciate the detailed questions. It's helpful to get any insight possible. Let's me change my perspective on how to build things and opens my view to see the project from other angles.

I appreciate the note. I'm asking the questions because you are asking folks to ask questions.

Re: Creeper Skid... I do feel like it needs a more substantial gusseting and mounts. You likely have to remove the OE mounts on the inside of the frame rails and build something there. For ideas, this is the crossmember we came up with. The frame was then sleeved and the crossmember bolted to the frame. Maybe overkill but it serves the same purposes as yours.... suspension mounts, transmission mount and skid.

As for Ackerman... what matters is the relation of the tie rod mounts to king pin. Basically, you want that line pointed towards the center of the rear axle... doesn't have to be exact. To clear the pumpkin, offset TRE's might work if you can figure out how to make it work without interfering with the drag link.

 

[ericbauer]

I haven't installed it yet, but I got this (Blake Machine - 1UZFE Lexus Oil Adapter - https://blakemachine.com/performance_parts_by_blake_machine/1uzfe_lexus_oil_adapter) with a Derale 35709 oil filter bracket, with -10AN lines. Have the same problem on the stock frame, steering sometimes smacks the oil filter.

small as it is, the factory oil filter housing has a built-in cooler - it's pretty pricey new ... might be worth something second hand if you were to sell it ... guessing you'll be doing an aftermarket oil cooler with the lines going to the remote filter housing ?

 

[RustyLinkz]

I appreciate the note. I'm asking the questions because you are asking folks to ask questions.

Re: Creeper Skid... I do feel like it needs a more substantial gusseting and mounts. You likely have to remove the OE mounts on the inside of the frame rails and build something there. For ideas, this is the crossmember we came up with. The frame was then sleeved and the crossmember bolted to the frame. Maybe overkill but it serves the same purposes as yours.... suspension mounts, transmission mount and skid.

View attachment 3665796View attachment 3665797

As for Ackerman... what matters is the relation of the tie rod mounts to king pin. Basically, you want that line pointed towards the center of the rear axle... doesn't have to be exact. To clear the pumpkin, offset TRE's might work if you can figure out how to make it work without interfering with the drag link.

View attachment 3666001

Talk about Grade A 70/30 BEEF. That’s a gnarly skid. What was that application?

On the ackermann angle, those visuals help. I’ll take an angle measurement from where it would be if mounted to the forward hole vs the closer hole and see where it lands me on the rear axle. From what I’ve deduced, you either have the proper angle or you don’t, i.e. its not a diminishing angle, correct?

Theoretically you could have proper Ackermann if the tie rod continues through that forward hole to the line that intersects the kingpin pivot.

What’s the worst thing if I don’t have the proper angle? Tire wear? Sketchy steering?
I’m aiming to have a 1/4” toe in using those TMR toe angle brackets on top of my roll axis as negative roll understeer.

Once I have my links set, I’ll post my geometry numbers. See what the folks think about the numbers and drive-ability.

 

[RustyLinkz]

small as it is, the factory oil filter housing has a built-in cooler - it's pretty pricey new ... might be worth something second hand if you were to sell it ... guessing you'll be doing an aftermarket oil cooler with the lines going to the remote filter housing ?

The more you know! I didn’t realize these had a built in cooler. That’s neat.
The plan right now is to keep the factory oil filter in its place and drop the drag link down in order to clear it. I have about 5” up travel right now without interference, if I drop the pitman arm heim mount and the PS drag link mount by another 1/2” I should clear both oil filter and radiator fan. Very tight clearances.