The longer the clutch rod, the sooner it disengages - so shorten the rod moves the pedal closer to the floor. There are spec's for that.
Builds Salted Pork fj55 family wagon build (5 Viewers)
- Thread starter Roastchestnuts
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- fj55 fj55 iron pig
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- Thread starter
- #82
Thanks for that. I have an extra rod I might use too because mine is slightly crusty and will be difficult to adjust in the vehicle.
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- #83
Ohh I did have a random question for the more knoledgable folks - did the 1971 fj55 have a brake booster?
Yes, as did some earlier models
3/69-7/70
7/70-1/75
The 1971 model year is the 44610-60010 ->44610-60030
This was the AISIN made OEM variant, NLA:
Skreddy
SILVER Star
For muffler: what kind of volume do you want? I run a walker Quietflow on my 40 and am pleased with it. Very “stock” sounding and quiet.
For tires, have you heard of the Deestone? They look similar to what you linked. I have no experience with them, heard about them for the first time the other day talking to @Spokruiser but they look the part.
For tires, have you heard of the Deestone? They look similar to what you linked. I have no experience with them, heard about them for the first time the other day talking to @Spokruiser but they look the part.
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- #87
I have heard of the Deestone ones. Pretty much the same as the power king super traction. Going to purchase some tires here soon though. I just liked the look and price of these astro tires. I have pretty much decided to go with that 750 r16 size at least. Thanks for the muffler info. Ill check that one out. I just want something quieter to be honest. Nothing too fancy.
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- #88
Is there a mod you can do to make the fj40 front turn signals work? I know the base is flat on the fj55 signals. I feel like I saw a mod done some place. the plastic housing on mine is so brittle I am worried they are going to dissolve. The passenger one the lens came out because the screws broke out of their plastic threads.
I am guessing you just shave the base down flat.
I am guessing you just shave the base down flat.
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Not done this myself but I’m pretty sure you just swap the base over, the stem mount and lens are the same.
what does the star latch on the door look like? They can 'wallow' out
I had this issue
- Thread starter
- #91
Seems fine compared to the others. I may try and adjust the door.
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- #92
First drive today! a good shake down for sure. Ill elaborate more tomorrow but it was pretty fun!
bobm
WTF, WTF, WTF!!!!
Someone sells the base for the 55
We had a bunch of the flat base signals, they were actually errors as they were supposed to be 40 ones. Let me see if I still have any.
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- #95
Thanks Kurt!
- Thread starter
- #96
Updates- I drove it for the first time and I even I took my parents for a spin yesterday. It was a good shake down drive. couple things I noticed:
1. I need a muffler. I have it strait piped and that is no good hahah.
2. the clutch needs a slight adjustment. maybe bleeding the system again will help. I did adjust the push rod and the clutch is engaging at a good spot.
3. I noticed when I got back from my test drive that the carb was dumping fuel in one of the barrels. Not sure whats up. I hope its just I have the float set incorrectly and not a fuel pressure issue. I think you set the floats to 40mm from the carb hat. I didn't check to be honest so its a good chance thats the problem. I don't have a regulator at all right now. there was not a regulator that I remember on the donor 55. do think I am going to eventually move to the holley 2300. I purchased some parts from @Downey . I am a big fan of holley carbs. and I already have a 2300 2 barrel that I just need to rejet and put a different power valve in. I wont do this immediately but eventually/soonish. This will also get me set up to do a sniper conversion in the future as well.
4. I need to adjust one of the brake drums as its dragging.
5. I love having a sycro first! its so much easier.
6. Steering wheel is off center. (one of the biggest annoyances of mine with any car) does the pad in the center come off so I can pull the steering wheel? i already need to check the turn signal switch so I need to pull the wheel.
1. I need a muffler. I have it strait piped and that is no good hahah.
2. the clutch needs a slight adjustment. maybe bleeding the system again will help. I did adjust the push rod and the clutch is engaging at a good spot.
3. I noticed when I got back from my test drive that the carb was dumping fuel in one of the barrels. Not sure whats up. I hope its just I have the float set incorrectly and not a fuel pressure issue. I think you set the floats to 40mm from the carb hat. I didn't check to be honest so its a good chance thats the problem. I don't have a regulator at all right now. there was not a regulator that I remember on the donor 55. do think I am going to eventually move to the holley 2300. I purchased some parts from @Downey . I am a big fan of holley carbs. and I already have a 2300 2 barrel that I just need to rejet and put a different power valve in. I wont do this immediately but eventually/soonish. This will also get me set up to do a sniper conversion in the future as well.
4. I need to adjust one of the brake drums as its dragging.
5. I love having a sycro first! its so much easier.
6. Steering wheel is off center. (one of the biggest annoyances of mine with any car) does the pad in the center come off so I can pull the steering wheel? i already need to check the turn signal switch so I need to pull the wheel.
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yep, that steering wheel pad comes off easy (screws behind it) and then the center nut and then yank on it (leave the center nut on a few turns so you don't slam yourself in the face)
and don't forget to disconnect the horn wiring
the best thing I ever did for my steering was rebuilding the steering center support bearing cup
and don't forget to disconnect the horn wiring
the best thing I ever did for my steering was rebuilding the steering center support bearing cup
pb4ugo
SILVER Star
The correct way to center the wheel is to adjust the drag link or relay rod. If the wheel hasn't been removed b4. It insures the steering box is centered. The shortcut is to remove the wheel.
- Thread starter
- #99
Welp adjusted the floats to 40mm closed and 50mm open like it says to do factory and its still dumping fuel into the carb in the one venturi closest to to the valve cover. Not sure what the deal is. its wierd its like its all of a sudden started doing that. I think maybe the fuel pressure is too high for that carb. Maybe the fuel pump has come around or something and its more psi or somthing idk I could be wrong. I wonder if it had the same issue in the previous fj55 this motor was in. I may be putting on this holley sooner than later. Correct me if I am wrong: you have to rejet the 500cfm holley and a different power valve to get it to work correct?
one thing of good news is the brakes are bled and feel perfect. good strong brakes.
anyways I have given up for the day. gotta spend some time with my lovely wife. Ill come back to it tomorrow after noon maybe.
one thing of good news is the brakes are bled and feel perfect. good strong brakes.
anyways I have given up for the day. gotta spend some time with my lovely wife. Ill come back to it tomorrow after noon maybe.
On the DJ, the factory fuel pump is too strong even for the factory carb, so I'm running a external fuel pressure regulator at 4-5 psi after the factory pump. Check the what the factory pump is putting out and check the recommended psi for that carb. At least check that off the list. Without the regulator (I tried) it fills up the bowl and just pushes fuel out of every possible leak point.
