^^^. I have shared Marlin Crawler carb rebuild video several times on Mud. Have a gander. Very informative. Built my OEM carb and it is dream to drive now. Had a fuji special before which is garbage.
Builds Salted Pork fj55 family wagon build
- Thread starter Roastchestnuts
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- fj55 fj55 iron pig
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- #42
I am just going to rebuild what I have for now. I only had to pay 50$ for a rebuild kit. I know the OEM carb is better but I don't have one right now and I am a broke ass Art teacher at the end of the summer - so the weber is staying for now. I ran a Chinese copy of the OEM carb on my 40 with pretty good success.
In the future If I am hating my decision on the weber I will switch it up.
I also have a relatively new holly 2300 2 barrel 500cfm. Maybe I can find an adapter for that. It would work with the right adapter too.
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- Thread starter
- #43
I do have an update!
I got the fj55 running! I ran it briefly by pouring gas down the carb. I dont have the gas tank hooked up right now to the fuel pump . I gotta drain the gas and inspect the tank. Previous owners ran it on the tank so I am optimistic. I thought I heard knocking but turns out the slip yolk on the transfer case was tapping the floor... I guess the clutch is a little stuck.
Other issue is I think the ballast resistor fried out. and I could not get it running again. I had an issue getting it started after I left the ignition on for a wile getting the rear window up. Coil was hot to the touch. It did tested fine I think Numbers seem to be slightly jumpy. but still would not start after it cooled off. have not tested the ballast resistor yet though. I might swap it for a city racer internally resisted coil that I have some where If I still cant get spark. Just gotta find it tomorrow. Thought i had the wiring right but some visuals would help. Does anybody have a pictures of the coil wiring for a 1971 fj55? I cant tell if its been monkeyd with in the past.
Helpful information - It does have some sort of electronic ignition pertronix style thing in it that came with the 2f dizzy that was in the 76 fj55. It seemed to work. ran pretty good before I left the ignition on.
I also have the dizzy that has the little nob for advancing and retarding ignition timing and I am not sure I like it verses just turing the dizzy. does anybody have any tips for setting up these dizzys.
Most of the electric works I cant get the head lights to work. Not sure whats up with that. From quick testing with a multi meter it was not getting power at the lights. Could the switch be broken? I didn't see any blow fuses under the hood and all had continuity.
I got the fj55 running! I ran it briefly by pouring gas down the carb. I dont have the gas tank hooked up right now to the fuel pump . I gotta drain the gas and inspect the tank. Previous owners ran it on the tank so I am optimistic. I thought I heard knocking but turns out the slip yolk on the transfer case was tapping the floor... I guess the clutch is a little stuck.
Other issue is I think the ballast resistor fried out. and I could not get it running again. I had an issue getting it started after I left the ignition on for a wile getting the rear window up. Coil was hot to the touch. It did tested fine I think Numbers seem to be slightly jumpy. but still would not start after it cooled off. have not tested the ballast resistor yet though. I might swap it for a city racer internally resisted coil that I have some where If I still cant get spark. Just gotta find it tomorrow. Thought i had the wiring right but some visuals would help. Does anybody have a pictures of the coil wiring for a 1971 fj55? I cant tell if its been monkeyd with in the past.
Helpful information - It does have some sort of electronic ignition pertronix style thing in it that came with the 2f dizzy that was in the 76 fj55. It seemed to work. ran pretty good before I left the ignition on.
I also have the dizzy that has the little nob for advancing and retarding ignition timing and I am not sure I like it verses just turing the dizzy. does anybody have any tips for setting up these dizzys.
Most of the electric works I cant get the head lights to work. Not sure whats up with that. From quick testing with a multi meter it was not getting power at the lights. Could the switch be broken? I didn't see any blow fuses under the hood and all had continuity.
- Thread starter
- #44
@cruiseroutfit I have a question for you. I swapped a 2f and 4 speed from a 1976 fj55 into my 1971 fj55.
the fj55 I am building has the stock 1971 axles. I want to use the 1976 drive shafts but my pinion flanges are the smaller bolt and pattern. Is it possible swap the pinion flanges on the 1971 axle for flanges that will work with my 1976 drive shafts? And to further my question do you have that in stock?
Thanks!
the fj55 I am building has the stock 1971 axles. I want to use the 1976 drive shafts but my pinion flanges are the smaller bolt and pattern. Is it possible swap the pinion flanges on the 1971 axle for flanges that will work with my 1976 drive shafts? And to further my question do you have that in stock?
Thanks!
Skreddy
SILVER Star
If it is a pertronix, they are susceptible to burning out if the key is left on without the engine running.
The knob for advance and retard: once you get the distributor set where it’s happy, you can use that knob to fine tune a few degrees advance or retard based on a number of factors like elevation, temperature, load (weight) you are carrying, summer gas vs winter gas, etc.
For the lights, check for power at the dimmer. Work from the headlights backward (actually, start with the fuse but you mentioned that).
Absolutely. Your current 1971 FJ55 diff flanges are 10 spline, 10mm ID Bolt Hole - 64mm x 56mm pattern
The 1976 driveshafts are 11mm ID Bolt Hole - 68.5mm x 60mm pattern
So to swap, you would buy 2 each of the following:
Pinion Flange 10 Spline - Fits 1/1974 - 1/1978 FJ40/55 Applications (PN35020)
Toyota Land Cruiser Pinion Flange
cruiserteq.com
Pinion Nut - Fits 1958 - 7/1980 40/55 Applications (PN20061)
Toyota Land Cruiser Pinion Flange
cruiserteq.com
And I'd suggest you do seals too:
Pinion & Front Output Seal - Fits 1958 - 1997 4x/5x/6x/7x/8x Series With Factory 27 Spline Seal & 1969 - 8/1980 4x/5X Front Output Applications (PN38035)
Toyota Land Cruiser Pinion Seal
cruiserteq.com
Grab new drivelines bolts too, we have OEM or high quality aftermarket options:
Drive Line Bolt & Hardware Set - Pack of 4 - 11mm Bolt, Washer & Nut - Fits 1974 & Newer Applications (UJ90105SET4)
Toyota Land Cruiser Driveline Hardware
cruiserteq.com
Drive Line Bolt & Hardware Set - Pack of 4 - 11mm Bolt, Washer & Nut - Fits 1974 & Newer Applications - (UJ11MMSET4)
Toyota Land Cruiser Driveline Hardware
cruiserteq.com
- Thread starter
- #47
ahh dang it! I bet thats what happened I looked at the ballast resistor today and it looked fine. Maybe its time to Rock some points! I just gotta get the little plastic piece that goes in the DIzzy. I have a condensor and a set of points. I think I have seen those little plastic things for sale.
Ohh So I can actually advance and retard that dizzy like every other one? Mine must be stuck.
Yeah I am going to pull the light switch tomorrow and test it. I think from the head lights to the fuse block it has no power. everything else works. turnsignals flashers etcetera. except for that epic factory am radio. I don't think it has power to it either. or the speeker is blown not sure but Ill dig into that later. Kinda non important at the moment.
- Thread starter
- #48
Hell yeah Kurt! thanks man. I knew you would have the answer!Absolutely. Your current 1971 FJ55 diff flanges are 10 spline, 10mm ID Bolt Hole - 64mm x 56mm pattern
The 1976 driveshafts are 11mm ID Bolt Hole - 68.5mm x 60mm pattern
So to swap, you would buy 2 each of the following:
andPinion Flange 10 Spline - Fits 1/1974 - 1/1978 FJ40/55 Applications (PN35020)
Toyota Land Cruiser Pinion Flange
Pinion Nut - Fits 1958 - 7/1980 40/55 Applications (PN20061)
Toyota Land Cruiser Pinion Flange
And I'd suggest you do seals too:
Pinion & Front Output Seal - Fits 1958 - 1997 4x/5x/6x/7x/8x Series With Factory 27 Spline Seal & 1969 - 8/1980 4x/5X Front Output Applications (PN38035)
Toyota Land Cruiser Pinion Seal
Grab new drivelines bolts too, we have OEM or high quality aftermarket options:
orDrive Line Bolt & Hardware Set - Pack of 4 - 11mm Bolt, Washer & Nut - Fits 1974 & Newer Applications (UJ90105SET4)
Toyota Land Cruiser Driveline Hardware
Drive Line Bolt & Hardware Set - Pack of 4 - 11mm Bolt, Washer & Nut - Fits 1974 & Newer Applications - (UJ11MMSET4)
Toyota Land Cruiser Driveline Hardware
Fwiw, that was very true for the older Pertronix kits, 1661, 1662, etc. The new (10+ years ago) Pertronix II kits eliminated that issue to my knowledge, I don't know that I've heard of a key-on burnout on the newer ones. I'd love to hear if you've had it happen on the new stuff. If unsure which you have, old is black pickup, new is red.
- Thread starter
- #51
I think this was very old. was in the dizzy that was in the 1976 fj55. It was probably a early 2000s build. Very much of the period with vintage spector off road stuff and msd stuff under the hood and a chrome front bumper. Kinda crazy sombody did all this work and then the 55 sat and rusted away! Picture below is before we pulled the engine.
I will also say I have no idea when this Electronic ignition sensor was put in. Could be newer than I think. could also not be pertronix
pb4ugo
SILVER Star
I dont think you should use a ballast resistor with petronics, and the key on can be an issue. I think it needs 12 volts. I'm sure you can find instructions on it.
@Skreddy is spot on. Leaving the key on will result in a burned up Pertronix on those older units. And the years are flying, it was more like 16 yeas ago they changed. I show we sold our I series in 2009
- Thread starter
- #54
yeah Dangit! I was trying to get the rear window working again and had the key on to operate it up and down for a little while. probably 15 minutes. Oh well. I bought the little plastic thing and the screw for points since mine was missing because of the pertronix install. Hopfully I can just rock the EMP proof points! also just purchased those pinion flanges thanks again.@Skreddy is spot on. Leaving the key on will result in a burned up Pertronix on those older units. And the years are flying, it was more like 16 yeas ago they changed. I show we sold our I series in 2009
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- #55
yeah you are probably right. I think I may just go back to points and a internally resisted coil.
Right on. Thank you!!
Your box has shipped 
Mr Hudson (also an FJ55 owner
) packed it.
Mr Hudson (also an FJ55 owner
) packed it.
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- #58
Heck yeah! thanks! You guys are awesome! Thanks Mr. Hudson!
Pics or it didn't happen......(also an FJ55 owner
This is his daily driver, it's a fan favorite in the Cruiser Outfitters parking lot. I found this pic on his IG, now I know what they use our forklift for when I'm around
This was his daily driver before losing the 2F. He's just about done with a 3F/H55F swap
The FJ60 belonged to a longtime Cruiser pal and fellow Canguro Racing member, Will Carroll (cant remember his Mud username). Will sold it over 20 years ago and Hudson ended up with it a few years ago. Will stopped by the shop last year (he lives in TX) and we were able to get a shot with both of them
