Builds Salt wagon My first fj40 (build) (1 Viewer)

[rainingagain]

These look pretty good! I still need to pull off the brackets and paint them but it looks better to my eyes with the correct tail lights. I am going to buy the oem reflectors for it soon too. I got the 3d printed cones from @Cruiser Cult and one tail light from @Cruiser Corps and the other tail light from Shop cruiserparts and the brackets from spector off road.

Still having the issue where the drivers side break light wont work. all the other lights work. I think maybe it could be the break switch? I have one on order. Ill do a little digging under the dash and check the connections some time this weekend.

View attachment 3361969View attachment 3361970

Looks good

its a new bulb and new tail light. it was doing this prior as well. The reason I am assuming the break switch is It would work some times with a heaver push of the breaks. that again could be just coincidence too. I am pretty sure that break switch is an original part under there. Looks kinda crusty. I Might as well replace it anyway. Not too hard to replace the switch. you are completely right though.. I am going to do some more wiring tracing to make sure its not a weird splice or something like that that was done in the past.

Looking at the wiring diagram, power comes in at the passenger side, then junctions to the passenger's and driver's taillights.

Do you have a voltmeter? You can do this with an idiot light, but you kind of want to check for a good 12v of power. If so, check for 12v at the passenger side, grounding using the new bracket. If that works, which it should since you say the brake light works, I'd then ground the drivers bracket and see if you can get 12v using the power source on the passenger side.

If that doesn't have 12v, you have a ground problem on the drivers side. These ground to the frame, which grounds the battery.

 

[Roastchestnuts]

Looks good


Looking at the wiring diagram, power comes in at the passenger side, then junctions to the passenger's and driver's taillights.

Do you have a voltmeter? You can do this with an idiot light, but you kind of want to check for a good 12v of power. If so, check for 12v at the passenger side, grounding using the new bracket. If that works, which it should since you say the brake light works, I'd then ground the drivers bracket and see if you can get 12v using the power source on the passenger side.

If that works, you have a ground problem on the drivers side. These ground to the frame, which grounds the battery.

I do have a volt meter and an idiot light. I should be able to figure it out. I do know that it grounds that way to the frame as I thought I had defective bulbs earlier because I hooked everything up and tested it without bolting the brackets down completely and I noticed the blinkers would not work well until I tightened everything down. Thanks this helps! Even though I just purchased a break switch,(why not replace while I am at it) I suspect the main problem is some sort of issue with grounding. I am off work on sunday. I should be able to figure this all out then.

 

[Roastchestnuts]

On my '69, the rear wiring harness runs down the passenger frame rail. The harness split and ran across the rear crossmember to the drivers side. I'd spend some time looking at that wiring and the split that goes to the drivers side. I went ahead and put a junction block in the rear and re-wired everything to both tail lights. This helps tracing circuit issues, as you can go right to the junction block and make sure everything from the cab is working correctly. Same wiring junction block as to what is used for the front lighting circuit on the earlier FJ40's.

What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week?

forum.ih8mud.com

This is a fantastic way to organize all that under there. and it keeps things really simple. I am going to do this once I figure out the issue. I know it all could use rewiring under there. Love this. Thank you for sharing that.

 

[120mm]

I feel your pain.

I just got done doing all this and checked and double checked everything, but it eventually worked out.

All lights go through the brake switch.

If anything works, your brake switch is fine.

Check your wires for power and continuity. That's probably the problem

 

[120mm]

Was just out in the shop messing with mine and realized something.

Your driver side brake lights are at the end of the circuit, right?

Do you have a trailer light setup wired in there? If so, that's pry your culprit

If your passenger side brake light works, and your turn signals work, the issue is with one of the wires that cross the chassis from the passenger side

 

[CBFJ]

One of my surf camp instructors drives a fj60. its a pretty cool one although pretty crusty now. Not much to update. I am waiting on a few parts to come in still. If anybody knows where to get a good head liner let me now. I think I am going to go with the cruiser corps one. I should have done this while my top was off though.

View attachment 3361670

Here's my headliner experience- I thought the CCOT one was great, and is still sticking strong. DEFINITELY have 2 people.

FJ40 hardtop repair

Indeed - it's very...not white. I did end up painting my top white-white, but only because the body was going back to factory-original Cygnus, and Cygnus everything is a bit bland...a whiter white at least gave a bit of the two-tone look, and it tricks the eye a bit into the Cygnus looking a...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Roastchestnuts]

Not alot t report.. just enjoying the fj40 for the summer. The turn signal issue turned out to be a bad splice from the passenger side to the driver side. I bought the white vinly stuff for the side steps. Going to clean those up soon weather permitting. Getting real close to pulling the trigger on soft top bows from real steel. @HelloKitty65 sold me on those. Basically because I have earlier style doors I should not have to modify the b pillar witch is cool. I talked with a few people and have decided I am going to go with a Troa top. I could not get up with Julie, and SOR is out of stock with the tops they have.

Untill I start doing the step sides here are some pictures of the summer down here on ocracoke. Some including the fj40

 

[120mm]

I'm still considering converting mine to a soft top, so I'm interested in hearing more about your experience as you go through it.

I hate that the early hard top is a fish bowl in the summer sun. It is significantly hotter than my FJ55 either sitting still or driving with the windows down.

Mine won't have a roll bar, so there's nowhere to put a bikini top.

I think driving with sides and back rolled up on a FST is The Answer for what I want to do.

 

[Roastchestnuts]

I'm still considering converting mine to a soft top, so I'm interested in hearing more about your experience as you go through it.

I hate that the early hard top is a fish bowl in the summer sun. It is significantly hotter than my FJ55 either sitting still or driving with the windows down.

Mine won't have a roll bar, so there's nowhere to put a bikini top.

I think driving with sides and back rolled up on a FST is The Answer for what I want to do.

I think thats the answer too! I also dont have a roll bar and nor to I want to hack somthing in. I want to keep it more correct for the year. I was going to check the surf this morning and had to turn around because my hard top is off and it started raining. of course an unpredicted rain shower too. if i had the fst I could just zip everything up. Its too hot here this summer with that top on. mine the scissor doors make it more manageable but even then I could use more airflow.

 

[Roastchestnuts]

I pulled the driver side step off to put the vinyl enlay in. glad I did as it needed lots of cleaning between the body and the step. But I just finished putting everything back together just not on the car. Looks good though.

what was really cool to see was some of the original material underneath. I broke almost all of these m6 screw bolts getting them out. better than having to cut them out. I am waiting on 20 m6 screw bolt things from overlandmetric. untill they get here my hardware store hardware will have to work.

 

[Roastchestnuts]

turned out pretty nice looking. I was very happy to just clean a lot of the scuzz build up between everything!

 

[KennyBob]

Been wanting to do my steps as well but I’m dreading having to deal with all the screws.

 

[Roastchestnuts]

Been wanting to do my steps as well but I’m dreading having to deal with all the screws.

The good news is its really not bad just be prepared for them to not come off. I think all but two broke and 1 i did have to cut off. Its so hot today I am going to wait and do the other one in a day or so.

 

[red66toy]

I love this thread.

 

[120mm]

I think thats the answer too! I also dont have a roll bar and nor to I want to hack somthing in. I want to keep it more correct for the year. I was going to check the surf this morning and had to turn around because my hard top is off and it started raining. of course an unpredicted rain shower too. if i had the fst I could just zip everything up. Its too hot here this summer with that top on. mine the scissor doors make it more manageable but even then I could use more airflow.

I don't know if I've commented here, but I think the combination of long troop seats and roll bar is a horrible idea.

Roll bars can seriously injure or kill passengers if the vehicle drops a tire into a rut and then comes back out, resulting in heads whiplashing and making contact with the roll bar. No amount of padding can protect the skull from injury in this scenario.

BTW, last time I checked, FST conversions required a metal piece to attach the soft top to the windshield. when I just checked the Real Steel website, they no longer list this piece for sale. I am wondering if it's now included in the "complete bow kit?"

 

[Roastchestnuts]

I don't know if I've commented here, but I think the combination of long troop seats and roll bar is a horrible idea.

Roll bars can seriously injure or kill passengers if the vehicle drops a tire into a rut and then comes back out, resulting in heads whiplashing and making contact with the roll bar. No amount of padding can protect the skull from injury in this scenario.

BTW, last time I checked, FST conversions required a metal piece to attach the soft top to the windshield. when I just checked the Real Steel website, they no longer list this piece for sale. I am wondering if it's now included in the "complete bow kit?"

I actually emailed Real steal to ask if it does come with the kit and they said it did. I did see it in the picture with the kit with just the bpillars and other parts no bars. Crossing my fingers on that one. I do think that Spector had it recently for sale.

I love this thread.

Thanks! I try to keep up with the things I am doing to the 40. I love your 40 thread as well!

 

[Roastchestnuts]

I am exited as I purchased an early ignition cylinder along with a set of keys! It will be nice to get rid of the current one that I believe is a replacement. the key also looks like from a pad lock haha. I also purchased the little grommet for the license plate light wiring. Ill post some pictures when that stuff comes in. I keep delaying my soft top purchase due to unexpected bills. (such as life) I should be able to soon though.

Picture below is what is currently installed.

 

[middlecalf]

And you have the escutcheon, !

 

[Roastchestnuts]

And you have the escutcheon, !

Is that factory? I have wondered this!

 

[middlecalf]

I thought they were, but I just looked in the ‘65 parts book and don’t see it. Also not in the 25 book. So maybe not. But still a cool piece I’ve seen on a few rigs. I think Ken @KT40 and/or Mark @cppilot were looking into getting these replicated over in the 45 section. Brian @whitey45 or Mark @65swb45 might know if factory (@Living in the Past also).