Saginaw PS pitman arm and rod questions

[YukonCruisers]

At some point I thought I had bookmarked a thread on this, but if anyone can help, it'd be appreciated.

I am doing the Saginaw/F250 shock mounts conversion on my pig - I have the 3 bolt Saginaw box positioned about where everyone else does and have started plating the frame, but I need advice on the pitman arm - what type, taper/size? I think i need a bit more of a drop than the current arm as it just barely clears without a tie rod attached.

Also, with the hj61 axles I am using, what do you recommend for tie rods? the club has access to a tap set that can tap DOM to take 1 ton ends... I also think I have access to a set of 60 series rods.

Rest of set up is at least alcan 4" or soa.

 

[YukonCruisers]

In the camaro one, did you cut the frame for clearance? I'd hate to do that, but am pretty close to clearing it now..

 

[xtiaan2000]

4x4 Labs night have what you need.

 

[Megadoomer]

I think almost all modern american trucks and vans use the same pitman gear. My is from a Jeep and it fit my Astrovan box and also fits my '78 bronco box. I just had to get it reamed for the GM 1 ton tre.

 

[RUSH55]

That pitman arm looks excessively long.
Want to say the pitman I used was from an early 80’s Jeep Cherokee/Wagoneer, but it’s pretty straight with no drop. Looks like you’d be doing pretty good if you found one about 2” - 3” shorter than the one in the picture. Can’t recall all the pitmans that are compatible with the Scout Saginaw boxes, but it’s quite a few IIRC.

 

[RUSH55]

This is what I’d maybe look at. Would need to contact and verify the spline count and what not.

1981 JEEP WAGONEER (SJ) - Rough Country Ford Pitman Arm - 6602 - 6602

Get the lowest price and fast shipping on Rough Country Ford Pitman Arm - 6602 at 4WD.com. Your trusted parts and accessories source for everything Jeep.

www.4wd.com

 

[YukonCruisers]

Thanks Gentlemen,

I will pull the arm tomorrow and look at the spline count and investigate if I can buy a cheap(ish) new arm. Before I order one I will see if I can convince it to bend a bit with heat - but these are cast aren't they? Not sure how it will respond, but will try it. For the record, this PS unit is from an International Scout of unknown year..

 

[gonzopancho]

I think this is the 4x4 labs 1” drop pitman on a Scout box

Build thread reference

74' FJ55 Build...

Had mine done at Hanley's, imagine any good blacksmith can do the same.

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Pighead]

I got this one off a j**p GRAND Cherokee. Not a regular Cherokee, but a GRAND Cherokee.

 

[RUSH55]

Think that’s the same one I got - on the right.
Couldn’t remember if it was “Grand” or not. Didn’t seem very “Grand” in that junkyard.

 

[Pighead]

Couldn’t remember if it was “Grand” or not. Didn’t seem very “Grand” in that junkyard.

View attachment 2397690

Nope, the one I got mine off of didn't look so Grand either. But it still said Grand on the side, so it must have been at one time.
IIRC I also used that Grand steering box to get my insanely high core charge back for the Scout steering box. Allegedly.

 

[YukonCruisers]

Choice of arm might be a moot point.. i am on day 3 of soaking, heat and pullers and the old one isn't moving.

I have been careful with the heat so as not to screw up the internals on the unit, but is this a legit concern? Do you think i can get the arm hot enough to bend while connected without killing the valves or something?

Other options are to cut a new hole further up the arm, but its not as wide there and would be weaker. Holes in the frame are already drilled (i was always planning on a new arm) so to move the unit or tilt it would be less than ideal.

I think i know the answer, keep fighting with the arm to get it off, get it red hot and bend it.

 

[J Mack]

Choice of arm might be a moot point.. i am on day 3 of soaking, heat and pullers and the old one isn't moving.

Put your puller on the arm and put it under tension, give the side of the arm a healthy smack with a big hammer. Repeat until the arm comes off.

Do you think i can get the arm hot enough to bend while connected without killing the valves or something?

You can bend the arm in a press without heat, this would be my first choice.

 

[YukonCruisers]

Good point, I have been using the ball peen hammer, but will be a bit more aggressive and see what happens...

 

[RUSH55]

I have also cinched the puller down pretty tight and added heat from a propane torch like @Lil'John mentioned. It’s not gonna overheat it or anything. Add some more pressure, add some more heat. It’ll pop sooner or later. Or the puller will break. Had that happen before too.

 

[YukonCruisers]

Daym, that took some effort, but its off - heat, puller and a bfh.

@j_mack isn't heat better for cast pieces, i thought it would be brittle cold.. or is the concern the structure and strength of the iron would be compromised.

I'll take you advice on this, i am on the edge of my knowledge here, and then go find a shop with a good press.

Thanks,
Kerry

 

[J Mack]

@j_mack isn't heat better for cast pieces, i thought it would be brittle cold.. or is the concern the structure and strength of the iron would be compromised.

True'ish if it was cast iron.
Your arm is more likely some form of forged steel.

I have an extra you you need.

 

[YukonCruisers]

Thanks! Will pm you

 

[J Mack]

Pictures.

 

[gonzopancho]

Daym, that took some effort, but its off - heat, puller and a bfh.

“If it don’t move, get a bigger hammer.”

My grandfather, on the right here.