Builds Rootbeer Float my FJ140 Build Thread (2 Viewers)

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This is going to be a great combo. Nice work my friend.
 
I should have perhaps started off with this, but did not. Some of the rationale behind the build:

1) Retro factor of the 60

2) Beefier frame

3)Proven coil suspension on all 4s

4) Triple locked (80 series axles). Full float rear.

5) Disc brakes on all 4s.

6) Proven robust drive train (LS/4L60). I love the Toyota stuff. Always have. Want more power and ability to get to places quicker. It takes a while to get out of TX. Reliability is proven on the LS/4L60 combo. Love that parts for the drivetrain are at any big box store. Sucks to be hostage on a mountain waiting for an alternator or equivalent to be shipped from Japan for the 2H I had. I paid for a fully optioned 130k mile LS motor the same price as a new 12v diesel engine alternator. Ubiquitous and easy access to parts is the other side of the reliability coin. Let’s face it, parts fail at some point. Even TEQ. I will retain TEQ parts on the rig that are readily available.

7) Diesel is nice. Low end torque was beautiful. Cold starts are hard and I have not had the best experience. Camping overnight in a remote place where temps drop and can’t “plug in the block heater” can be tough. I get that a good glowing system overcomes most of these, but it is still a concern for me. Gas engines have less issues on this front. I am exploring a cam option for the LS that gives me more low end torque. Power is fine.

8) Getting away from 24v to 12v because 24v stuff is harder to get. 12v is readily available. Managing a two battery set up was getting old.

9) Learning new things. Doing things I have never done before. Driving built. Not bought. Learning from people that are better than me. Making life long friends.
 
Helicoil all the adapter threads before assembly.
 
Parts rolling in. Marks adaptor kit.

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@Well Sorted was really good to work with to get some essential things I needed that were 12v. Thanks Doug.

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Got springs (< 10k miles) and fuel lines. Going with either Dobinsons or Bilsteins shocks. $80. A good deal. Thanks @fl4031003.

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Work has been crazy. Getting back on it. Bushings took a while. Had to dismantle rear control arm jig. Wire wheeled. Etching primer. Flat black. 2 coats.

Tech tip. Run some grease on the inside of bushing housing. Paint does not stick. Wipe clean when done

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Front axle broken down for rebuild. All looked good. Slight rust on PS knuckle ball. Can be buffed. Deleting ABS and dust shields for this build. Cookie sheets help with the mess. Very useful.

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Great meeting you at SAS last year. Just stumbled upon this thread and can’t wait to see you finish this. Will you be taking this to SAS this year?
I’ve got a similar thing going on right now with rebuilding an 80 axle…although I’m doing the Torfab kit, not the full 80 series frame swap.

I’m actually on a ferry to Seattle right now to learn how to re-gear my diff!

:cheers:
 
Great meeting you too. Primo truck you have. Did explore using a 62 frame with kits. Preferred to keep everything stock 80 underneath specifically coil buckets and stock 80 axle coil perches. Shortening the frame got me what I wanted. I was doing a body swap so doing an 80 frame worked. Time is always against me. Balancing life and build will ensure it does not make it to SAS this year. Hoping for next year. Want to take my time and do each bit right. No rushing.
 
Big shout for a @cruisermatt for his help on this build. Got his cool engine mounts, NSS harness, and all new hardware for the front axles knuckles out. He also hooked me up with new brake lines. All OEM. He has this parts list saved. Just in case others want to buy similar kit for front end new hardware.

Also got some cool merch. Love the shirts!!! Boys will wear the proud.

I am glad to support @cruisermatt and his shop in Winterpark FL. He goes the extra mile. He is a class act. Glad he is in the cruiser community.

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Nothing new. Just documenting. Knuckle bits degreased and scrubbed in diesel bath. They will get a coat of self etching primer and rustoleum flat.

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Big shout for a @cruisermatt for his help on this build. Got his cool engine mounts, NSS harness, and all new hardware for the front axles knuckles out. He also hooked me up with new brake lines. All OEM. He has this parts list saved. Just in case others want to buy similar kit for front end new hardware.

Also got some cool merch. Love the shirts!!! Boys will wear the proud.

I am glad to support @cruisermatt and his shop in Winterpark FL. He goes the extra mile. He is a class act. Glad he is in the cruiser community.

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What is the triangular metal thing with orange tape on it?
 
Correct, it's for the vacuum-shift splitcases (FJ62). I couldn't remember if CD was using a splitcase or HF2A so I just threw it in to be safe. Not sure how his T-case linkage will work exactly with his HF2a and the 60 floor hole. :hmm:
 
Correct, it's for the vacuum-shift splitcases (FJ62). I couldn't remember if CD was using a splitcase or HF2A so I just threw it in to be safe. Not sure how his T-case linkage will work exactly with his HF2a and the 60 floor hole. :hmm:
HF2A. Gonna have to fab something up.
 

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