Restoring a Rockwell/Delta finishing machine

[NicksFJ40]

Thank you for the info and advice, I have been on a couple of those sites. Renovo was supposed to send me an email with a list of what used parts they have but must have forgotten, they also have new parts from newer machines which are interchangeable. I do need the top two bearings which they have. I still keep an eye out on ebay, some times the parts are cheap, but you have to stay vigilant.

Thank you
Nick

 

[NicksFJ40]

Awesome shop!

 

[e9999]

very nice job!

 

[firestopper]

Thank you for the info and advice, I have been on a couple of those sites. Renovo was supposed to send me an email with a list of what used parts they have but must have forgotten, they also have new parts from newer machines which are interchangeable. I do need the top two bearings which they have. I still keep an eye out on ebay, some times the parts are cheap, but you have to stay vigilant.

Thank you
Nick

Nick,

Your very welcome.

if you have a bearing house near you, perhaps they have or can get you what you need. Those machines came with shielded bearings from the start. I would recommend gonging with sealed bearings to keep out fine particles. The bearings numbers are easily read without removing the bearing.
I can't say with 100% certainty that your machine shares the same bearings as my 83, but I saved $70 on the four bearings by buying locally and thats with using sealed bearings. They had them on the shelf as these are very common sizes.

Top idler roller sealed bearings: Koyo 62022 RSC3 ($6.00 each) two required.

Lower roller sealed bearings:
Smaller pulley side Koyo 62042 RSC3 ($9.00) one required.
Larger roller side Koyo 62052 RSC3 ($12.00) one required. This bearing (shielded) goes for $40-50 on those sites.

The Koyo sealed bearings for the motor ran me under $5.00 each. Also in stock (about 100 on the shelf).

Take a look and see what numbers you can make out on the idler bearings and shoot me a PM.

Take care,
Paco

 

[NicksFJ40]

Will do, thank you

 

[firestopper]

She's running nicely.

 

[mdsims]

Good work sir!

 

[NicksFJ40]

Sounds great!

 

[firestopper]

Thanks fellas,

So initially the belt is tensioned and rotated by hand to set rough tracking, then machine is jogged to set final tension and tracking is set closer. Finally, the fine tuning of the tracking is accomplished with the tracking knob while running. The tension amount required is enough to allow the belt to ride flat on the platen with zero slippage on the rollers. Still awaiting the delivery of the discs.

 

[firestopper]

Nick, this might help:
http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/1141/2648.pdf

 

[TheRhino]

Firestopper,
I am rebuilding a 31-730. Got the machine free from a friend. The idler shaft and bearings were shot. Found a new old stock idler shaft and bearings at Houston's oldest Delta authorized dealer ("Circle Saw"). I was told that the idler drum is balanced and that the red marks inside must line up for the drum to track properly. There are 2 spacers, one on each side of the shaft, each a different width. I am curious on which size each goes on. I resembled the idler and did a test run with a new belt and I can't get it to track properly. The slightest adjustment causes the belt to run out either way. Any ideas on how to get it tracking correctly?

 

[firestopper]

Nice friend you have, great score.

I also had red markings on both idler and drive drums. I ended up using a sharpie prior to teardown for indexing marks. I think I see a score line in your photo. On the spacer question, The wider spacer goes opposite of the retention nut. In they photo you can see the breakdown. The narrow spacer will keep the drums lined up. Did you also check for play/ware on the lower drive assembly?
Btw, the slighted tracking adjustment yields big results. Your belt tension needs to be correct prior to adjusting tracking. Do you have a manual? If not, download it from a link I provided. Good luck and let me know if I can help further.
Paco

 

[TheRhino]

Thanks. That helps alot

 

[NicksFJ40]

Finally got my parts from Renovo Parts, just waiting on some cap screws. The top pic is what I have collected from ebay or what I already had. Bottom pic is what I got from Renovo

 

[firestopper]

Good deal, won't be long.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Beautiful restoration!!

 

[NicksFJ40]

Firestopper, is this EBay item #152548599901, the same as SP-1532?

Sorry, I'm using phone and could not cut and paste.

Did you remove the rivets on the sander plate?

A prior owner put some type of resin on the pully threads.

Thank you
Nick

 

[firestopper]

Hi Nick,
The eBay item your asking about (Belt Adj. Screw Ass'y) has the same knob but the threaded portion doesn't look correct. It should be threads on the entire shaft. Perhaps this one is what you need (knob itself id different but threaded shaft appears correct)
Rockwell Delta Tracking Adjusting Knob and Screw for 6" x 48" Belt Sander New | eBay
It looks custom made But I would ensure the receiving threads on your housing match the 7/16 pitch.

On the plate data tag, I did remove them for sand blasting and paint. A small diameter punch will remove the press rivet nuts from the backside.
The pulley drive shaft should not have any JB weld or alike epoxy. Clean it up and check for damage. A keyway should secure the pulley from spinning on the shaft.

Paco

 

[firestopper]

Fabricated some castor mounts for the machine. I like the ability to move things around the shop as larger jobs require reconfiguration for production reasons as well as clean up. In fact, most machines in the shop are mobile with the exception of mills and lathe. I still have a plate roller and vertical band saw to convert.

The Rockwell cabinet has a taper at the rear so those brackets (two on the left) where broken to 80º. Each bracket has a backing plate with welded capture nuts eliminating the need for tools in the tight space. A spreader bar was also used between the two rear brackets due to the large motor opening in the cabinet. Without this bar (1/8" x 1") I had considerable flex in the 16 gauge cabinet while rolling, the backing plates are also 1/8" stock.

Installation , the backing plate adds to the stability of the thin cabinet eliminating any "oil canning".

The rear of the cabinet. With the large motor opening, its obvious flex would be a problem (laterally). A simple solution and still have access to the toe brakes on the castor's.

Keeping the machine close to the floor allows for safe gliding and stability. With the castor's locked, the machine feels solid.

The last addition will be a dust recovery set up but with only the weekends off and other priorities it won't come quick enough.

Stay cool!

Paco

 

[wyowood]

I have a chance to get a 31-731 but it doesn't have a motor. Searching online I haven't figured out what motor it uses. Can anyone tell me what to look for? HP, rotation and other specs please.