RestoMod Questions for '75 FJ40

[Mtnbiker588]

Hello Everybody,

I'm a noobie to the site, but feel like I have learned a lot so far by scoping out the existing forums. I acquired my '75 FJ40 in '04 and have to admit, I was pretty hoodwinked by the seller who claimed to sell "Fully Restored" vehicles. I ordered from him online. When I received it, it didn't even run. My bad... shame on me for being overly trusting. Over the past 15 years, as funds permitted, I have gotten it into pretty good shape with a local FJ40 specialist. Now that she is running pretty well, I am seeing surface and underbody rust show up. I'm considering having it torn down to the frame, all rust repair done, and full repaint. The goal is to make it a reliable daily driver and a fully capable outback adventure / camping rig.

I have already had the guys at Mudrak install:

-A new OME suspension with 2-3" lift done
-a new valve cover for the SBC
-Throttle body injection
-Power steering
-New seats
-long range under seat tank
-New 4-plus front and rear bumpers
-New wheels and 33's
-Air conditioning

Here are a few questions:

- Should I keep the throttle body injected Chevy V8 (that is running well but gets about 10 MPG) or go back
to a 2F with a carb.
- Does anybody know what a frame off resto-mod would cost? Ballpark?
- I'm considering doing it myself, since I have already spent MORE THAN the original cost of the
vehicle (with I am embarrassed to say) in repairs / mods.


thanks in advance for any thoughts or suggestions?

-KT

 

[65swb45]

1. What makes it “unreliable “ right now?

2. What do you expect out of an “adventure “ vehicle you don’t already have with your setup?

I always counsel my customers NOT to do any body work on a vehicle they plan to wheel until they have a season or two of experience under their belts. The learning curve is a lot less expensive that way. And you will fine tune your ‘requirements ‘ based on YOUR OWN feedback loop.

 

[White Stripe]

For outback adventures you will need a winch, rock sliders, and good skid plate. So add that too your list. Also, flex out the suspension and make sure the bump stops are set to keep the tires from hitting the fenders. The v8 throttle body motors are fine, but if your only getting 10MPG something is wrong. Try a new map sensor, and do a tune up. Those little lights up top will get ripped off by tree branches, I would remove them. Maybe upgrade the headlights to brighter lights instead and if u want more lighting put some hid spot lights on the bumper. A frame off diy would cost around 10 to 15k. I would probably go on some adventures with it for a while first. Most of that would be body shop costs. Getting the frame sand blasted and galvanized would only cost 1k. It's a lot of work, but your cruiser is in good shape so that makes it easier. I would attack the rust if you feel it's progressive. Your cruiser is in good shape so I don't think u should be in a rush to do a frame off.

 

[Vandal FJ]

You might want to drive one with the 2F to compare to the SBC. I love all things FJ40, restomod and restored purist, but it would seem an expensive endeavor to swap over to the 2F for no really good reason. EXCEPT a complete restoration. Have fun with it!

 

[Downey]

Since the vehicle is already equipped well beyond "purist restoration", my 2 cents is you would be very disappointed going back to the 6 cylinder (which would give you more weight, less H.P., and less M.P.G.). I also agree that something is wrong with your TBI system, you should be up in the 15 to 20 M.P.G. area.

 

[Mtnbiker588]

Good morning everyone,
Thanks to you all for the tips so far.
To answer 65swb45, my milage of 10 mpg (on highway) has been what was bothering me most "reliability wise". Small drips from the transmission case, diffs and power steering box are bothersome, but not sure they are serious enough to worry about.

My idea of "outback adventure" is pretty much 3-4 day explorations of what all those dirt roads in the Sierra Nevada have to offer. Also, some scouting public lands for hunting / camping in Northern Idaho and Montana.

Next on the list for my local Landcruiser mechanic will be:
-Check the TBI map sensor and tune up
-Install skid plates (there are none now, are more than one needed?) and sliders
-Install winch, I was thinking Warn VR8 (is synthetic line really worth the extra $$)
-Tuck up a rather low hanging exhaust pipe
-reposition those aux lights to the bumper / add upgraded headlights

As soon as I recover from a recent foot surgery I'm going to to get out there, run her for a bit, and learn first hand what I'm going to need to address. Oh yeah, and sign up for plenty of overtime to pay for the above, lol.

Until then I'll keep prowling the forums trying to learn as much as I can.

Thanks again to all of you, have a great one.


-Kent

 

[pb4ugo]

When you do your mileage calculations are you going by the Odometer? If so, have you made adjustments in the calculations for the oversized tires or tried to correct the odometer? Oversized tires will reflect less miles on odometer than the distance actually traveled.

 

[White Stripe]

Also if the O2 sensor is too far downstream in the exhaust system it won't get hot enough to work properly and the truck may not run at the right air fuel ratio. If thats the case, then a heated o2 sensor can be added or move the o2 closer to the exhaust header/manifold so it gets hotter. I think iron pig offroad sells beefy skid plates, 4plus probably does too but most of their stuff isn't on their website. A single skid plate that protects the trans and tcase should be adequate. You could probably find a good deal on a used warn 8274 on craigslist. They fit nicely in the front of a fj40 and can be easily cleaned up to look like new and replacement parts and upgrades are readily available for it. I wouldn't go with rope, but you do need to read up on how to properly use a winch with a cable as it can be dangerous if used improperly. Using a winch in general can be dangerous if not used right.

 

[65swb45]

Skip the winch for now and stick to getting your feet wet in the company of other wheelers. I wheeled for 12 years, including 5 trips over Rubicon and 3 over Dusy before I bought my first winch.

And I second @White Stripe on contacting 4plus or Iron Pig about a skidplate. If they don’t have a bolt on that will work for you, ask Mudrak if he can put you in contact with Don@fc187. He can build one to suit and is (or was) Stockton-ish.

 

[Mtnbiker588]

Thanks all for the guidance. I will heed your advice and keep you all updated. If more questions come up I'll let you know.

As far as milage calculations go... I have just been tracking how many gallons I burn on the known 55 mile (mostly hwy) round trip to work and back. I've been taking averages to factor in traffic and temperature.

I'll ask Mudrak to check on the O2 sensor and figure out the skid plate plan when we go in for the exhaust mod. He's been awesome with everything else so far. It's just nice to hear ideas from all of you too, since I'm a newb and don't know squat yet.

Thanks a bunch,
Kent

 

[Downey]

Kent, what Mark said about the winch, plus know that if you are the only guy on the trail with a winch, guys expect/demand you almost waist your rig trying to get their rig out of trouble, and you pretty much have the obligation to do so..

 

[Mtnbiker588]

Thanks for the heads up on that one Downey. Makes a lot of sense.

Now that I think of it, sounds like I should consider lockers before a winch then, yes?

Cheers,
Kent

 

[NMC_EXP]

Unless you spend a lot of time in sand and need the flotation you might consider smaller wheels & tires. Takes more energy to get big ones up to speed and to stop them. Causes higher loads on steering components resulting in faster wear out. If the differentials were not regeared to compensate for increased tire height, that may be a performance problem.

Forgot that big tires mean adding power steering is required. Not needed with smaller tires.

Heresy to some but other than flotation and looks I don't see much positive for big tires.

I've seen rigs with very small tires and open diffs easily traverse some very rough trails.

No matter what you do with tire size you should consider budgeting for a good air compressor or a CO2 tank. Reducing tire pressure makes a big difference in both traction and comfort on the trail.

By the way - good looking FJ40.

 

[Downey]

And know that Lil'john's 15 mpg is based on his 35" tires, smaller tires will no doubt give better milage.

 

[Mtnbiker588]

Again thanks,
Lil John... I think you might have hit it on the head:

New TBI slapped onto the previously carbureted '77 Chevy Caprice small block that came with it
Diffs were never re-geared when I went to the 33's.
I do have power steering and also power disks up front.

I will for sure look into the other shops. Not trying to be disloyal to my regular mechanic, but it would be nice to get another set of experienced eyes to check things out.

What size tires would you switch back to (away from these 33's) that would be rubicon worthy / overall performance friendly?

You all are much appreciated, have a great night!

- Kent

 

[Mtnbiker588]

Thanks NMC_EXP,
Planning on getting a compressor for air down/up and eventual lockers.
What tires would you suggest for Rubicon ready / daily driver?

Thanks, Kent

 

[Mtnbiker588]

Oh man Lil John.
I have no idea what to look for in that pic... but that shot is killer.
I'll have my guy at Mudrak check for that sensor!!

Other than that, I'm just going to have fun with it like Mark says and let it tell me what it needs.
No way can I afford a 6.0 LSx anytime in the near future.

I'll try the new tires when I use these up.

Sorry about all the questions, but for some background, I am pretty gun-shy and paranoid about this thing because I was foolish enough to buy it from Greg Mushro / Vintage Off Road back in 04. Terrible experience is all I'll say here (read about his reviews in the vendor section if you want). Mechanical problems and shoddy workmanship have been blind-siding me ever since I have had it. Half of me wants to walk away and forget the whole experience. The other half of me, full of foolish pride and overwhelming love for FJ40's keeps saying, "If I just fix this one more thing... then it'll be awesome".

When I recover from surgery, I'll try to get out to your guy at Valley Hybrids for a no BS assessment of which way I need to go.

As always, thanks for all your help.

Have a good one,
Kent

 

[Mtnbiker588]

Oh man Lil John.
I have no idea what to look for in that pic... but that shot is killer.
I'll have my guy at Mudrak check for that sensor!!

Other than that, I'm just going to have fun with it like Mark says and let it tell me what it needs.
No way can I afford a 6.0 LSx anytime in the near future.

I'll try the new tires when I use these up.

Sorry about all the questions, but for some background, I am pretty gun-shy and paranoid about this thing because I was foolish enough to buy it from Greg Mushro / Vintage Off Road back in 04. Terrible experience is all I'll say here (read about his reviews in the vendor section if you want). Mechanical problems and shoddy workmanship have been blind-siding me ever since I have had it. Half of me wants to walk away and forget the whole experience. The other half of me, full of foolish pride and overwhelming love for FJ40's keeps saying, "If I just fix this one more thing... then it'll be awesome".

When I recover from surgery, I'll try to get out to your guy at Valley Hybrids for a no BS assessment of which way I need to go.

As always, thanks for all your help.

Have a good one,
Kent

 

[White Stripe]

The 33s you have shouldn't need lower diff gears. The stock 4.11 gears should be fine. If u go any smaller in tires it will really hurt offroad performance. The wider track width from the wider tires will make the rig more stable on off camber sections. The steering components should be adequate for those size tires.

 

[FJBen]

I had a 67 FJ40 with a rebuilt 350, RV cam and TBI from a Police Cruiser. I was running 37's and never bothered to figure mileage because it's a big square brick and not designed for excellent mpg. I'd rather not know at the time. i ran 4.11's with 37's and didn't feel the need to change gears...especially with the SM420 transmission I had.

That said, removing the roof rack is probably good for 1~2mpg. I put a rack/fairing on my TDI jetta and dropped 5mpg. Under 40mph, you probably won't much of a difference, but hwy speeds you'll notice it. 10mpg seems low, but you will probably top out at 15ish.

The wide 33's on your rig are creating a lot of drag as well. Kind of the "in" tire now is the tall skinny's. 33x10.50x15 or that size in 16" rims 255x85xr16 Same height, (or taller) than current 33's, better MPG's, easier to turn easier on the axle in general. Cooper makes the ST Maxx or the BFG AT KO2 that are a good compromise of road/off-road as long as you don't need every ounce of traction.

Lockers or at least a rear locker to start is an excellent mod, and I will say have used them 100's upon 100's of times more than a winch. I prefer ARB's personally. That said, when you need a winch...you need winch! I would think about what wheeling you will be doing.


A single skid plate would be fine. Lots of vendors make them on here so choose the one you like the best and can get.

@65swb45 has great advice on the bodywork. I wouldn't dig in to start...especially if you are already questioning the seller who hoodwinked you. I bet I have a guess of who it is.


my old 40.