Resto Q & A (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter RedOx
- Start date
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I discovered that the previous mechanic had all of my hub screws loose. I realize that Toyota didn't spec torque for Warn hubs. But, it was as if the axle grease wasn't able to get out of the way of the thread, and it didn't torque for bolt stretch, but, it torqued for compressing grease. Either way, I'd really feel sketchy about 300-series stainless hardware. This is a critical drivetrain component. Steel outperforms stainless steel in so many ways. Like it doesn't work-harden, so you'll have a better chance drilling-out if you do have a broken screw. Plus, it has an ultimate yield strength greater than stainless. The numbers for the 'class' of Toyota screws were 7, as stamped on the heads of my '75 with Warn hubs.
- Thread starter
- #123
You have any recommendations on where we can find bolts that match the specs you listed? I'm going to call local machine shop last resort.
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- Thread starter
- #124
The bolts holding the hubs on should be hex head so the locking tabs can be used. There is really no need for 10.9 grade hardware.
Those are too strong. The aluminum hub isn't up for those stonger steel (10.9) fasteners. 8.8 is available at Hillman, at the ACE or whatever, likely in that length. In theory, screws are tension springs, keeping parts from disassembly. That means that lower 'Class' or 'Grade' hardware needs less torque to make the shank of the screw stretch, and keep the parts from disassembling during service. When you go up in 'Class' / 'Grade' you need to also increase the torque applied to the screw or bolt to have the same amount of spring-load from the screw or bolt, which is a problem, because it might exceed what the Warn aluminum hub can handle. The higher 'Class' and 'Grade' fasteners are often heat treated, and made from a medium carbon steel - they don't stretch much and can be subject to loosening.
Toyota screws would be ideal. They use with a captive lock washer, in this application, if you are looking for OEM-hardware. If not, use a 'wave' washer so it doesn't gall the aluminum hub. The original factory hardware was 12mm on the head, not 13mm. I'm not sure that it matters, but, you might check for clearance...
Toyota screws would be ideal. They use with a captive lock washer, in this application, if you are looking for OEM-hardware. If not, use a 'wave' washer so it doesn't gall the aluminum hub. The original factory hardware was 12mm on the head, not 13mm. I'm not sure that it matters, but, you might check for clearance...
- Thread starter
- #127
Does anyone know where we can find the bolts that have the hole in the middle of the hex head that secure the brake plate to the Brif? They are the kind that has the wire that runs through each one I assume to keep them from turning. I cannot find them anywhere. Considering just using drill press to fabricate my own.
- Thread starter
- #128
Yeah they are 13. I am just going by what I found on it. Cruiser Corps and Outfitters don't carry the bolt kits from what I have seen. Looks like it's going to have to be DIY. I found some 8.8 as you recommended and ordered those. I'm going to have to get some of these "wave" washers also. I packed that hub full of grease and it was coming out the bolt holes as mentioned earlier. I'm glad you guys mentioned the density rating on these for sure. It's a big precaution safety wise and easier on the pockets.
Take a board, lay the bolt down, smack it with a hammer. The bolt will inbead about 1/2 in the wood. Drill threw the head. Pop out the bolt, drop a new one in the cavity - place a finger on the bolt shank to hold it in place, drill the head R/R
- Thread starter
- #133
Needing some advice before running wires to new tail lights. The old wiring is currently run through the frame which is filled with dried clay. I'm just wanting to get it running for now. Do yall see any problems with running the wiring around the floorboard to the back on each side and drilling a hole through the backpan and running wires through that?
Got a whole set of these from CruiserTeq. Correct and look great.
pb4ugo
SILVER Star
The stk wiring didnt go inside the frame rail cavity. It was run on along the outside of the frame along the passenger side. There were clips that bolted to the frame rail that held the wires. Towards the back where the c channel opens up there were sort of spring clips that slid on to the frame lip to hold the wires in place.
