1978 FJ40 Gear Reduction Starter Wiring Q (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Aug 20, 2023
Threads
22
Messages
60
Location
Chicago
Installation of the Gear Reduction Starter has been very straight forward but I have one wiring question:

Where do you connect the Black/White wire that runs from the starter to the coils positive post? The wire provides 12V to the coil for starting but I can't find a post/connector for it on the starter?

Thanks,
Sam
 
The wire provides 12V to the coil for starting but I can't find a post/connector for it on the starter?

Thanks,
Sam
I found this one

20240828_153950.jpg


20240828_154001.jpg
 
B/W not used on GR starters, zip tie/zap strap/tape out of the way and move on. This wire was ultimately sunset in ~81. Since you have a '78 with I assume factory electronic ignition, it isn't needed.

If you have seriously cold winters, daily drive the truck in subzero temps and have trouble starting without the BW wire then shift back to the direct drive after a quick rebuild. Then test to see if the BW even helps ;)

My coldest is maybe -10° startups for work and the only issue I run into is how thick the oil is.
 
Last edited:
Wow. Pighead's gear-reduction unit is totally different than mine. Mine is Denso-USA, remanufactured for Toyota on the box, yet it has no indication of ever being used before, as it sports fresh milling marks all over the aluminum casting. Mine has a braided copper lead from the solenoid to the main motor wonderfully exposed to wildlife-pee, conductive materials, rain, etc, without any insulation. I have a hole at the bottom of the motor; I might have two, as there is a funny rubber plug up front; I can shine a flashlight in the open one and see past the motor clutch from the front, maybe I can tap them and install pipe-plugs, or just drain water faster? My solenoid looks like the old solenoids, cylindrical. By now, I probably should be following part numbers? Pighead's, in the thread, 'What You Did to Your Cruiser this Week" post #37,505 shows a starter without a nose-cone (starter drive housing), mine has a closed cast-aluminum nose cone, like the original early 2F equipment, with a bushing to support the armature shaft, behind the flywheel ring-gear. The gear-reduction armature shaft is about .060-inch smaller in diameter than my earlier direct-drive starter motors, iirc. I'm sure it is all-good, but I never stop asking questions after I get a good look at it.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom