resealing hardtop rain gutter (2 Viewers)

[shipmag]

Hey there, I'm in the middle of a restoration of my roof, which is pretty chewed up on one edge/corner. Got the new gutter from CCOT with rivets, but have no idea how to install them (possible I got something when originally bought, but was over a year ago before I got to this project!)
Long term results good with your 3M product?
What's the name of the self-leveling sealer?

@CarDude --how'd the Rhino Liner work out? I'm planning on Lizard Skin.

If you use any form of rhino liner you will loose the value of your rig. Moisture will still get inbetween the coating and the metal and you will never be able to remove the liner to repair it. I would never buy a vehicle thats been rhino lined. Rust can still come from the other side that isnt rhino lined. Just my opinion.

 

[Splangy]

If you use any form of rhino liner you will loose the value of your rig. Moisture will still get inbetween the coating and the metal and you will never be able to remove the liner to repair it. I would never buy a vehicle thats been rhino lined. Rust can still come from the other side that isnt rhino lined. Just my opinion.

Actually, Rhino liner does not have a high moisture vapor transfer rate at all.

The same rules apply to liners that apply to any other coatings. Proper prep is essential. Combine proper prep with a good epoxy primer and a quality Bedliner can provide years of troublefree performance.

That said, there's a time and a place for bedljners.

 

[FWaltersnewbie]

A few years ago I took the roof off of my 1970 FJ40 to replace the gasket between the gutter and body. I found the gutter to be in very good condition. I did not separate the glass from gutter. Mistake. The leak I was chasing was still there, between the glass and channel. Now facing a restoration on my '79. A year ago I thought about swapping roofs knowing how good of condition the '70 was in. I removed the carpet that had been installed in the '79 and it is just a mess up there. I knew when I bought it that some funny business existed as no rivets are visible and the body putty covering them goes over the edge to underneath. So I think I need to order the rain gutter along with the headliner. I will probably order oversize rivets from McMaster so I get a clean hole in the glass. My point is that unless you live in the desert it is a good idea to seal between the glass and gutter using a slow cure sealant to allow rivet installation. Also, without proper equipment, it is better to fit the glass to the channel and drilled and taken apart, deburr all holes, then apply the sealant and assemble. Head of rivet is on the glass side.

Thanks, @cuencanolenny ! Appreciate it--I'm moving to Costa Rica with my Donkey, so I'm definitely going to do everything possible to rain-proof him! (like your blue Tardis FJ40--if you don't know what the TARDIS is, look up Dr. Who!)

 

[FWaltersnewbie]

If you use any form of rhino liner you will loose the value of your rig. Moisture will still get inbetween the coating and the metal and you will never be able to remove the liner to repair it. I would never buy a vehicle thats been rhino lined. Rust can still come from the other side that isnt rhino lined. Just my opinion.

How about POR-15 on the inside and Rhino on the outside?
I'm moving to Costa Rica and need as tough as possible for as long as possible.
The Lizard Skin is a sound deadener that is going on top of POR-15 multi-coats.
Not planning to ever sell the Donkey, so no worries there! (but appreciate the opinion!)

 

[Splangy]

Why would you use POR-15?

 

[FWaltersnewbie]

Why would you use POR-15?

Not for the fiberglass, but for the gutter, for the inside of the vehicle--I'm moving to Costa Rica, where high humidity and salt air are ever-present in the Southern half. I'm trying to prevent rust from happening (as well as fixing minor rust spots that are already present) as I'm restoring the cap/roof. POR-15 was highly recommended by the PO of my FJ40.

 

[FWaltersnewbie]

Question: if this is a rain "gutter" where does one drain the rain? Do folks drill holes in the back corners? Is there a way to divert the water away from the vehicle? Are there some mysterious missing rubber tubes that I don't have?

 

[emac]

there are some cutouts in the gutter rail to allow the water to drain off.

Added a picture. There is one in each corner.

 

[FWaltersnewbie]

Thanks, @emac --I got the aftermarket put-together from CCOT which doesn't have those cutouts. Do you find that you get any standing water in there if the rig is just sitting in your driveway or in a parking lot (mine will be garaged, but just wondering)

 

[cuencanolenny]

Not for the fiberglass, but for the gutter, for the inside of the vehicle--I'm moving to Costa Rica, where high humidity and salt air are ever-present in the Southern half. I'm trying to prevent rust from happening (as well as fixing minor rust spots that are already present) as I'm restoring the cap/roof. POR-15 was highly recommended by the PO of my FJ40.

Send a message to Rudy, BJ40 Green I think is his tag line. Easy to find him under electrical stuff. While he got rid of his rig a couple of years ago, he still helps us all with electrical questions. Regardless, he did a roof job on his rig in Costa Rica and may have some tips for you. Always keep in mind what Mark's Off Road said, "Your FJ40 won't keep out a dense fog."

 

[FWaltersnewbie]

Send a message to Rudy, BJ40 Green I think is his tag line. Easy to find him under electrical stuff. While he got rid of his rig a couple of years ago, he still helps us all with electrical questions. Regardless, he did a roof job on his rig in Costa Rica and may have some tips for you. Always keep in mind what Mark's Off Road said, "Your FJ40 won't keep out a dense fog."

Thx! Have looked into his roof renovation already! Contacted him a year or so ago when we bought property down there. Appreciate the thought. (Suspect I'll need his help at some point)

 

[emac]

Thanks, @emac --I got the aftermarket put-together from CCOT which doesn't have those cutouts. Do you find that you get any standing water in there if the rig is just sitting in your driveway or in a parking lot (mine will be garaged, but just wondering)

I find the gutter holds water and drains out of those cut outs. It would be easy to recreate those cutouts. Why CCOT doesnt, I cant tell you why?

 

[FWaltersnewbie]

I find the gutter holds water and drains out of those cut outs. It would be easy to recreate those cutouts. Why CCOT doesnt, I cant tell you why?

Since the sealer is creating a water-tight seal with the fiberglass, it's not really crucial when welding the inner connection points with the CCOT gutter, true? And for that matter, the outer ones either since we kind of want the water to leave the gutter

 

[emac]

Correct, the sealant and the gaskets create a watertight seal. I would consider cutting in the drains. I can measure them for you. You can take a bur and grind out the drain easy peasy.

 

[thebigredrocker]

1/16"-1/8" is not enough to fill in the voids between the metal and fiberglass along the inside vertical edge. The rain gutter doesn't need to be able to hold a lot of water volume to function properly. It's not a swimming pool up there. That said, it shouldn't be full of seam sealer, either. I find that two packs of the SEM 2K self leveling seam sealer is the perfect amount.

I am ordering the SEM self leveling. The guy I’m ordering from is telling me they are 7 ounce cartridges. When you say 2 packs, am I correct to assume that also means 2 cartridges. Or is a pack 3 to 6 cartridges. Regards.

 

[Splangy]

Correct. Two 7oz cartridges.

 

[Michael Hanson]

Hi, One thought Costa Rican labor is much cheaper. If you oversee the body shops work and provide your own paint and parts you can get some great work down there . Also remember their auto inspections are tough , cars can not have ANY leaking fluids. Pura Vida ! Mike