Nice work, it brings back memories of mine from the 1980’s
Builds Rescuing a Basket Case '72 FJ40 (5 Viewers)
- Thread starter diesellibrarian
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diesellibrarian
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #22
Managed to wangle a couple of hours in the garage last night, which gave me a chance to take care of a few small details on the rocker repair. Had to recreate the support bracket that ties the cross member to the rocker just below the center of the door. To make a faithful pattern I simply hammered the rusted bracket flat, then traced it onto some fresh steel, which i then cut out and folded over:
And here's the bracket welded in place behind the rocker. This bracket really adds a lot of stability to the rocker panel!
I've also been working on prepping driver's side floor area for installation of a new floor pan. I'm trying to keep as much of the original sheet metal as possible, but sadly I think that might be about one square foot under the brake/clutch pedals. Thankfully the cross members etc. all seem to in great shape - just a bit of surface corrosion.
One step at a time!
And here's the bracket welded in place behind the rocker. This bracket really adds a lot of stability to the rocker panel!
I've also been working on prepping driver's side floor area for installation of a new floor pan. I'm trying to keep as much of the original sheet metal as possible, but sadly I think that might be about one square foot under the brake/clutch pedals. Thankfully the cross members etc. all seem to in great shape - just a bit of surface corrosion.
One step at a time!
diesellibrarian
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #23
Spent some time at the shop last night, and made a good start on the floor repair. I've decided to get the section under the pedals solid before embarking on the main floor pan.
First order of business was to measure, cut, and fold the section that tucks under the still and attaches to the rocker. Holes for plug welding are pre-drilled, because it's easier that way.
Test fit-up. Looks pretty good! Welding the rusty OG metal isn't super fun, but you gotta do what you gotta do.
All burned in. Took a peep from the underside to make sure I was getting good penetration on the welds. Looks pretty solid.
Then I moved on to the area under the gas pedal. Decided just to put a flat panel in there, instead of trying to reproduce the raised piece. I'm not super excited about the way it looks, but there's only so much I can do with my limited tools and skills. Still have to clean up some of the welds, but it was after 11 by the time I got to this point, so decided to call it a night.
Next step is the main floor pan area. Going to break out the bead roller for that one...should be fun!
First order of business was to measure, cut, and fold the section that tucks under the still and attaches to the rocker. Holes for plug welding are pre-drilled, because it's easier that way.
Test fit-up. Looks pretty good! Welding the rusty OG metal isn't super fun, but you gotta do what you gotta do.
All burned in. Took a peep from the underside to make sure I was getting good penetration on the welds. Looks pretty solid.
Then I moved on to the area under the gas pedal. Decided just to put a flat panel in there, instead of trying to reproduce the raised piece. I'm not super excited about the way it looks, but there's only so much I can do with my limited tools and skills. Still have to clean up some of the welds, but it was after 11 by the time I got to this point, so decided to call it a night.
Next step is the main floor pan area. Going to break out the bead roller for that one...should be fun!
diesellibrarian
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #25
Been picking away at this project as time allows. Over the past week or so I managed to turn some steel sheet into something that might almost pass for a floor pan.
Here's the sheet all ready for cutting! This 4' x 5' sheet of 18ga steel cost less than one replacement rocker from some the suppliers of replacement panels. I seem to have more time than money these days, so that's why I do this crazy stuff.
After some judicious measuring, I have a panel cut roughly to size. Here is my first test fit letting me know that I'm in the ballpark:
The first thing I did was fold over the edges where they attach to the rocker and the box section behind the seats. Then I broke out my $100 el cheapo bead roller and put a few beads in the panel. Then I spent a couple of hours with a hammer and dolly, stretching the metal between the beads. I should have done my research ahead of time, but apparently beading really stretches the metal in the area of the bead, creating all kinds of tension that causes the panel to distort like a potato chip. This can be avoided, apparently, by pre-stretching the panel using an English wheel (which I don't have). Anyway, I was finally able to stretch the areas between the beads to release some of the tension and get the panel to lay fairly flat:
First test fit: looks like it'll work!
With everything measured twice and cut once, I started welding in the panel. It's butt welded to the rest of the floor pan, and plug welded to the cross member, rocker, etc.
And here's the (pretty much) final result! Very happy overall. This was the most complex and challenging bit of metal work that I've done yet. I feel like I'm starting to get an inkling of an understanding of how metal behaves under certain conditions, and that's exciting to me.
To finish this part of the truck, still need to replace the inner door sill, but that shouldn't present too much of a challenge (famous last words).
Here's the sheet all ready for cutting! This 4' x 5' sheet of 18ga steel cost less than one replacement rocker from some the suppliers of replacement panels. I seem to have more time than money these days, so that's why I do this crazy stuff.
After some judicious measuring, I have a panel cut roughly to size. Here is my first test fit letting me know that I'm in the ballpark:
The first thing I did was fold over the edges where they attach to the rocker and the box section behind the seats. Then I broke out my $100 el cheapo bead roller and put a few beads in the panel. Then I spent a couple of hours with a hammer and dolly, stretching the metal between the beads. I should have done my research ahead of time, but apparently beading really stretches the metal in the area of the bead, creating all kinds of tension that causes the panel to distort like a potato chip. This can be avoided, apparently, by pre-stretching the panel using an English wheel (which I don't have). Anyway, I was finally able to stretch the areas between the beads to release some of the tension and get the panel to lay fairly flat:
First test fit: looks like it'll work!
With everything measured twice and cut once, I started welding in the panel. It's butt welded to the rest of the floor pan, and plug welded to the cross member, rocker, etc.
And here's the (pretty much) final result! Very happy overall. This was the most complex and challenging bit of metal work that I've done yet. I feel like I'm starting to get an inkling of an understanding of how metal behaves under certain conditions, and that's exciting to me.
To finish this part of the truck, still need to replace the inner door sill, but that shouldn't present too much of a challenge (famous last words).
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diesellibrarian
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #26
Oh, and I also resinstalled the corner sections of the top, along with the hatch crossbar. Once the driver's floor is done, I'm going to replace the rear sill, and this will help to keep the rear end square when I start cutting:
The sill has seen better days.
The sill has seen better days.
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RevISK
SILVER Star
Sill?
diesellibrarian
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- Thread starter
- #28
So, rather than working on the sill as advertised in my last post, I decided to fix the transmission hump. It seems to be an important part of the overall structure, as it ties the two floor pans together and keeps everything in place. The bottom 2" or so on mine was almost completely rusted out, so it needed quite a bit of metalwork to get it solid again.
In the pic above, you can sort of see the high water mark that shows the depth of the dirt and leaves that was in the cab. No wonder the sheet metal just rotted away! Anyway, the first step in this repair was to make some basic templates with tape and cardboard, and start cutting! Here I have the first patch piece clamped in place, so that I can scribe my cut line:
Here's the new steel partially welded in. I wasn't sure of the exact shape of the flat section, since it had completely disappeared, so I based my pattern on the passenger side. Should be pretty close!
He's a pic of the passenger side showing just how rotted this thing is:
The passenger side is a lot more complicated than the driver's side. I decided to reconstruct it piece by piece, so I made a bunch of templates, cut the new steel, and then made adjustments as I went along. Didn't need to do a ton of shaping - just some hammer and dolly work to add some curves and bends here and there. Once tacked in place, I went through and fully welded both sides of the joins, for added strength and to give me a little more leeway when grinding the welds flush. Here's a pic of the underside:
After grinding and bit of filler to smooth the curves, I gave it a quick shot of etching primer.
And here it is bolted in place! I had to add a couple of nutserts in the new floor pan. Still need to add two more nutserts (I ran out of the correct size) and finish the rear lip of the hump (it's very thin and needs some new metal welded in), but otherwise the transmission cover is good to go!
In the pic above, you can sort of see the high water mark that shows the depth of the dirt and leaves that was in the cab. No wonder the sheet metal just rotted away! Anyway, the first step in this repair was to make some basic templates with tape and cardboard, and start cutting! Here I have the first patch piece clamped in place, so that I can scribe my cut line:
Here's the new steel partially welded in. I wasn't sure of the exact shape of the flat section, since it had completely disappeared, so I based my pattern on the passenger side. Should be pretty close!
He's a pic of the passenger side showing just how rotted this thing is:
The passenger side is a lot more complicated than the driver's side. I decided to reconstruct it piece by piece, so I made a bunch of templates, cut the new steel, and then made adjustments as I went along. Didn't need to do a ton of shaping - just some hammer and dolly work to add some curves and bends here and there. Once tacked in place, I went through and fully welded both sides of the joins, for added strength and to give me a little more leeway when grinding the welds flush. Here's a pic of the underside:
After grinding and bit of filler to smooth the curves, I gave it a quick shot of etching primer.
And here it is bolted in place! I had to add a couple of nutserts in the new floor pan. Still need to add two more nutserts (I ran out of the correct size) and finish the rear lip of the hump (it's very thin and needs some new metal welded in), but otherwise the transmission cover is good to go!
South Texas 97
GOLD Star
You are an inspiration to us all. Great work
diesellibrarian
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #30
Thank you! Haha. The deeper I get into this thing, the more I realize that it probably should have been parted out. But I've become attached to it and need to see it running and driving again.
Green Bean
GOLD Star
Your beads look very nice. What MIG welder are you running, and what wire size?
Roastchestnuts
TLCA #28675 Salt wagon Fj40
Thats what I was wondering too!
diesellibrarian
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- Thread starter
- #33
Thanks! I've been getting good results by stacking 4-5 tacks in a row, and then moving an inch or two along and stacking a few more tacks. I seem to get better penetration that way, but it does put a lot more heat into the panel, so I don't use that method on flat areas. Even on the trans cover I had to hammer/dolly a few of the seams to fix some distortion.
My welder is a Lincoln 140MP - nothing fancy, just a little 120v hardware store special. For sheet metal work I run 0.023" wire and CO2/AR gas.
Green Bean
GOLD Star
I have my eye on a Millermatic 211 which will run .023 wire and CO2/AR gas. Just starting out as a hobby of sorts.
diesellibrarian
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- Thread starter
- #35
That's probably the only welder you'd ever need. Someday I'll upgrade to a Miller!
RevISK
SILVER Star
I have that welder. It’s the boss.
I highly recommend setting a Craigslist watch for one. I waited a year and scored on a never used unit with a ton of extras for $800-ish? About a year ago.
I sold my Millermatic 180 years ago from lack of use. It made a hack welder like me look good
Green Bean
GOLD Star
Don't mean to hijack... but any recommendations on a decent welding table for a beginner/hobbyist.?
Thanks!
diesellibrarian
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #39
Little more progress on the Cruiser over the past little while:
I repaired the rust-perforated panel just in front of the driver's side rear wheel. This area was distorted by the rust and bent out of shape thanks to some past impact, so it was tricky to get the new metal to line up. I tried my best to get in there with a hammer and dolly to straighten things out, and as a result the panel is a lot flatter than it was before, and also a lot stronger. I also re-welded the inner fender to the outer panel, which brings things back into alignment and helps to support the panel as I continue with the other rust repair that'll be needed on the rear quarter.
Still have a little more grinding to do, but no matter what this area's going to need a skim of filler.
On the whole, the driver's side is looking a lot more solid than it did when I first acquired this truck:
I was also able to get the inner door sill mostly welded in. This area actually turned out really well. For some reason I was able to get the fit-up almost perfect (would have been a good candidate for a TIG weld), and as a result the weld is almost invisible, even without filler.
Still need to plug weld the new panel to the floor, but once that's done, I think I'm finished with the driver's side floor pan area.
Thanks for following along!
I repaired the rust-perforated panel just in front of the driver's side rear wheel. This area was distorted by the rust and bent out of shape thanks to some past impact, so it was tricky to get the new metal to line up. I tried my best to get in there with a hammer and dolly to straighten things out, and as a result the panel is a lot flatter than it was before, and also a lot stronger. I also re-welded the inner fender to the outer panel, which brings things back into alignment and helps to support the panel as I continue with the other rust repair that'll be needed on the rear quarter.
Still have a little more grinding to do, but no matter what this area's going to need a skim of filler.
On the whole, the driver's side is looking a lot more solid than it did when I first acquired this truck:
I was also able to get the inner door sill mostly welded in. This area actually turned out really well. For some reason I was able to get the fit-up almost perfect (would have been a good candidate for a TIG weld), and as a result the weld is almost invisible, even without filler.
Still need to plug weld the new panel to the floor, but once that's done, I think I'm finished with the driver's side floor pan area.
Thanks for following along!
I have a certiflat at home, its kind of an ikea welding table but its served me well.
Sean
