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- #601
Thanks. They are really moving. It'll probably slow down a little after blasting and epoxy due to some of their other projects, which will give the budget a little time to catch it's breath.
Builds Removing SBC conversion, going back to Toyota. 1972 Frame Off
- Thread starter Jdc1
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Thanks. They are really moving. It'll probably slow down a little after blasting and epoxy due to some of their other projects, which will give the budget a little time to catch it's breath.
Lol, I know all about the budget thing. I hope to have a friend of mine help me with the paint on ours, I do ok with the metal and body work. Just takes me a lot longer. But haven't painted enough to learn how to well, I'm excited about the fact he has said he will school me on the do's and don'ts on mixing the paint. He also said he would stand behind me and give me pointers as I shoot her.
I'm looking forward to seeing your 40 completed, I know its going to look great.
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- #603
When I did the welding on the driverside rocker, it sucked in and left some misalignment to the quarter panel. John and Zak were not happy with the way the door was fitting at the B Pillar and decided to work their magic. After some finish welding on the rocker, it is ready for the blaster, which will be the 1st week of January.
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- #606
Body work is done until after media blasting. We got a pleasant rot free surprise when they pulled the windshield hinges. Tub is ready to go on rotator, chassis is coming to my garage and we should be seeing color in January.
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- #607
Back to mechanicals while there is a lull in bodywork.
I have decided to change the head gasket while the tub is off of the body. A while back, we had a spare head rebuilt that will also be going on.
This is a 61040 head is from an FJ60. The donor engine is also 1984. If I am reading the date code on the head correctly, this is a 03/02/84 build date?
I have decided to change the head gasket while the tub is off of the body. A while back, we had a spare head rebuilt that will also be going on.
This is a 61040 head is from an FJ60. The donor engine is also 1984. If I am reading the date code on the head correctly, this is a 03/02/84 build date?
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Yes, you are reading the cyl head date code correctly.
Format is Y 61040 MMDD.
Format is Y 61040 MMDD.
A little off topic but I started buying the "Chock-Full-O-Nuts" Coffee for my office because they were one of the few that still used metal cans to put the coffee in. Metal cans hold up better in the shop once the coffee is gone to put nuts, bolts, and other small parts in vs. the plastic ones!
Id love to have the rotisserie, but space and frequency of use just do not make it a practical shop tool for us. No better way to get into every last corner though. Looking great Jdc1, you have to be feeling great about your progress!
Id love to have the rotisserie, but space and frequency of use just do not make it a practical shop tool for us. No better way to get into every last corner though. Looking great Jdc1, you have to be feeling great about your progress!
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- #611
LOL, the body shop has made progress. Aside from stripping the rest of the parts for sandblasting, I havnt been in 40 mode for about a month. I've been roped into honey dos, kids indoor soccer and have actually made it to a tree stand a few times. I am starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel.
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- #612
Unfortunately our Ohio, January has been really warm and rainy which has delayed the trip to the blasters. Progress hasn't slowed as the rotator has allowed work on the bottom of the tub. Tomorrow is supposed to be sunny and dry so hopefully everything goes soon.
Ahhh hell, go " all in" on 621!!!
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- #614
On the way home from picking up some parts at my dad's, I look up at a stop light and see what looks like the remains of a greenish 40 on a trailer. It took me a minute to realize it was the 72 on its way to the sandblaster. Seeing it on the trailer lit a fire and this morning I started tearing into the head.
My mechanic checked out the lower end when I had the oil pan off and everything looked ok. This was sold as a good running engine but I wasn't really happy with the cold/dry compression numbers.
Looks like it needed a head gasket. Armed with the FSM (thanks @Trollhole ) , new OEM head gasket and bolts (thanks @beno ) , this won't take long. I had practice for the galley plug fix on the last one.
My mechanic checked out the lower end when I had the oil pan off and everything looked ok. This was sold as a good running engine but I wasn't really happy with the cold/dry compression numbers.
Looks like it needed a head gasket. Armed with the FSM (thanks @Trollhole ) , new OEM head gasket and bolts (thanks @beno ) , this won't take long. I had practice for the galley plug fix on the last one.
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Brakleen might work, but the typical carbon is pretty stuck on there. I like to park the piston 1/⁴" below TDC, soak the piston top with w/ blaster for an hour or a week, then scrape/wirebrush softened carbon. The blaster may also get into the rings enough to free up the stuck compression ring.
#3 looks like it sat with water in it. Soak that cylinder with blaster, run the piston up & down a few times, park it at BDC, and carefully inspect cylinder walls for cavity corrosion.
#3 looks like it sat with water in it. Soak that cylinder with blaster, run the piston up & down a few times, park it at BDC, and carefully inspect cylinder walls for cavity corrosion.
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- #617
Cylinder walls are all in great shape. I've been using Kroil and Marvel Mystery Oil to soak and clean the carbon off of the pistons.
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