Builds Removing SBC conversion, going back to Toyota. 1972 Frame Off (10 Viewers)

[brooklyn]

My 67 fj40 came with a V8 from Colorado and was one of those early conversations. Talked with the previous owner who said he got a lot of grief when he made the conversation. Now, everyone says v8s are good for all sorts of reasons, and I had two fj40s this way, but the mismatch of parts and the feeling I was driving not a legend but a Chevy/fj40 something got old. Now with a complete drive train from an fj60 might not be original, it's closer. My rig is not show room, but it is fun to drive and a I am enjoying learning how to tame a F2. Also keeping those folks selling fj40 engine parts in business.

 

[dlzadl]

I have heard from a somewhat famous Toyota guy that a 40 with a V8 does some awesome 4 wheel burnouts and is a totally different animal than stock. Excellent upgrade if you like what it is and can do. Could not agree more that it has its' own place in the world and on our forum. Spoke just the other day with another legendary Toyota guy who also likes Volkswagens. In that world they have a vehicle they call OEM plus, not quite a Baja, but a bug with all the good stuff. Jesse and I are working on a Toyota plus, an old style heavy body, a 2F drive train with a dumbed down fuel delivery system, mild Old Man Emu lift, we added the 4 speed and it has the 60 distributor and electrics as well as Toyota power steering. Toyota front disc brakes and an updated but true to the wiring schematic wire harness. (thanks Coolerman it is awesome~!) It does have a Saginaw power steering pump but that I believe will be almost the only non-Toyota component on the truck. We have tried to stay OEM bearings, seals and all the rest. We have appreciated the service and advice from MUD vendors and a number of knowledgeable members who see and support what we are trying to accomplish. It is becoming more difficult every day to find the parts we need to stay with the goal but the members of this forum have had a huge impact on us staying on task by helping us with advice and parts. hopefully someday we will be able to say it is complete. It will not be a show truck but it will be our attempt to build a true representative of the best Toyota has to offer for its' period. It may not go play in the rocks but it will most likely be a driver. We will always remember the process and if in the end we part ways with this truck any owner will love it for its' uniquely Toyota personality.

 

[dlzadl]

Now with a complete drive train from an fj60 might not be original, it's closer. My rig is not show room, but it is fun to drive and a I am enjoying learning how to tame a F2.

You used 2F 60 axles and 60 transfer and tranny? Did you use the 2F carb and intake as well as go with power steering? Any pics?

 

[dlzadl]

You used 2F 60 axles and 60 transfer and tranny? Did you use the 2F carb and intake as well as go with power steering? Any pics?

Sorry guys do not mean to hijack, Brooklyn please pm me I am extremely interested.

 

[Jdc1]

Clean metal...

 

[Dagha Boy]

Great thread. Don't know how I missed it until now. I really envy you those Toyota parts. What colour is it going to be?

 

[Jdc1]

Great thread. Don't know how I missed it until now. I really envy you those Toyota parts. What colour is it going to be?

Thanks DaGha Boy. It is probably going to be Rustic Green.

 

[Jdc1]

Axle, backing plates and u bolt sliders

 

[Jdc1]

Just finished reading this thread. A sincere thank you is in order. I wish there were more people going back to the Toyota drivetrains (even if it's not the original engine, at least keep it Toyota).

I have nothing against the 350 conversion and would have probably run this one had it not been so poorly done and we had a running F engine(that we didn't use) available.

In hindsight, I am glad that this 40 is going to toyota drivetrain, my daily driver 5.3L with 65k miles is burning a qt. of oil every 2000 miles and GM is saying it is within spec.

 

[Jdc1]

A friend of mine was kind enough to let me use his paint booth for my front axle. He also gave me permission to use it to spray the body as well.

2 coats of PPG shopline epoxy 377 and 3 coats of PPG Alk200 w/201 hardener. I used my Devilbiss Startingline gun w/1.5

 

[Jdc1]

OEM knuckle kit w/ koyo wheel bearings and OEM hardware from @beno

 

[Jdc1]

The painted front axle parts tureed out really well. I wasn't to happy with how long the Alk200 took to cure on my rear axle. Using the hardener solved that issue. I have some cleanup of the knuckle ball and need to remove some paint from where the steering arms seat, but it is ready to go.

 

[Jdc1]

I spent a few minutes grinding the inside of each knuckle ball to fit the slightly larger '76 birfs into the '72 housing.

 

[Jdc1]

 

[Jdc1]

Chasing threads...

 

[Jdc1]

Today I pulled some of the hardtop parts out of storage to start mocking up my body panels.

Does this gap at the door and windshield look normal? Will the hardtop cap suck it back? Thanks.

 

[FJ40Jim]

The hardtop's job is not to pull back the WS. The correct WS position should be located by the windshield lock bolts and spacer sleeves at the bottom of the WS.

 

[Jdc1]

The hardtop's job is not to pull back the WS. The correct WS position should be located by the windshield lock bolts and spacer sleeves at the bottom of the WS.

Thanks Jim. So if my windshield knobs are tight, then the sleeves could be trimmed to allow the WS to come back farther?

 

[Jdc1]

I took the spacers out and brought the WS back as far as it would go. Ithe looks like the gap is from the door hinges.

 

[FJ40Jim]

Usually when the WS doesn't line up w/ spacer sleeves in place & knobs tight, the brackets on the upper dash are found to be bent. Usually bent forward from when the knobs were tightened & sleeves were not in place.

Note that the WS hinges are adjustable, so loosening all mounting screws and levering up at front of WS will cause it to lean back.