Builds Removing SBC conversion, going back to Toyota. 1972 Frame Off

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Status
Not open for further replies.
This really is a sickness. This is only one of our parts storage
It is not a sickness, it is not a sickness, it is not a sickness....It is all good stuff that we plan on using, proof is we sold two so we can't be hoarders. It is maybe a sickness, okay so I am a Land Cruiser addict and I can't help it. It could be worse, I could be out gambling and whoring, viewing internet pornography, drinking and drugging, at least that is the latest excuse I use with the wife. Won't work for much longer and we need to get these parts onto trucks.
 
I am buttoning up the transfercase. On the front drive flange, SOR shows this thick shim as correct. When I install it, the nut does not seat far enough to stake. The FSM shows a thin and thick shim. Would a thin shim be enough for a correct install? My picture of the flange doesn't have anything behind the nut.

uploadfromtaptalk1454418356854.webp


uploadfromtaptalk1454418372699.webp
 
Last edited:
Yes, the thick washer is necessary. The shim that is often found under the nut can be discarded.

If the nut will not go on far enough to stake, then something is wrong. Dig around in the flange and verify that there is not already the washer stuck in the flange. Maybe the frt stub shaft is not seated all the way forward into the bearing. Tightening the big nut should be enough pull it all the way into the bearing and seat it.
 
Yes, the thick washer is necessary. The shim that is often found under the nut can be discarded.

If the nut will not go on far enough to stake, then something is wrong. Dig around in the flange and verify that there is not already the washer stuck in the flange. Maybe the frt stub shaft is not seated all the way forward into the bearing. Tightening the big nut should be enough pull it all the way into the bearing and seat it.


Thank you as usual, Jim. I confirmed that there isn't a washer stuck. I put the thick washer and nut on and was able to tighten until the stub shaft seated.
 
After checking with my usual sources, I found a fuse block on ebay w/ the plugs.

$_1 (1).webp


Also in preparation for starting the power steering converaion, I stumbled across this rag joint adaptor for my early steering column, also on ebay. ( @Indygbd )

$_1.webp
 
In addition to numerous repairs and cleaning, Coolerman, made the following changes to the harness:

Added fog light circuit
Switched to heavier coil/ignitor wire for 2F
Moved oil pressure sending wire for 2F
Moved and lengthened Alt wire for 2F
Added fusible link

For those who are looking at an aftermarket solution, Coolerman's service comes in less expensive than many of the aftermarket offerings.
 
Last edited:
View attachment 1223277 I also was able to pick up my front axle parts from the machine shop. Only cost was a dozen donuts and they are degreased ready to be blasted and painted.

That is the best deal I have heard of in a long time!
 
Ok, I'm finally going to comment on this thread. I originally looked at this thread in 2013 to see if there were any V8 conversion parts being removed that I could buy. All of the parts being removed were very old school, and I would not have wanted them. What interest me now about this thread is the gross number of people interested in it, the number who have viewed it. Back in my heyday at Downey Off Road Mfg. we sold 260 V8 conversion kits on a good month. Now I see more articles on removing the V8's than installing them. I'm thinking unless the person removing the Chevy V8 is doing a complete show room floor restoration (which most could not afford), making the rig worth many many thousands $$$, they would be better off keeping the V8 for many many obvious reasons.
 
Ok, I'm finally going to comment on this thread. I originally looked at this thread in 2013 to see if there were any V8 conversion parts being removed that I could buy. All of the parts being removed were very old school, and I would not have wanted them. What interest me now about this thread is the gross number of people interested in it, the number who have viewed it. Back in my heyday at Downey Off Road Mfg. we sold 260 V8 conversion kits on a good month. Now I see more articles on removing the V8's than installing them. I'm thinking unless the person removing the Chevy V8 is doing a complete show room floor restoration (which most could not afford), making the rig worth many many thousands $$$, they would be better off keeping the V8 for many many obvious reasons.

I completely agree. If someone were looking for a great driver or trail rig, my 40 could have been back on the road fairly quickly. It was however a mechanical basket case. The motor mounts were half welded in, cracked bellhousing, hacked wiring..... Being in the rustbelt, it is alot cleaner of an example than what we normally come across. I originally went to see this expecting a parts rig and for the initial purchase price of about a grand would have been great for a budget build.

I use this build as a way to relax, learn about 40s, spend time with my dad and to do something that I have never done before. I work on it when I want to, never because I have to. Are there better, cheaper, or different ways to do a rebuild? Yes, but this one is mine and will turn out exactly the way that I want it to.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom