Removing and reinstalling the CDL actuator (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter CharlieS
- Start date
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It’s not difficult, lock diff by selecting low, pull diff fuse for safety.
Lower tranny as much as you can and go at it.
That instruction means nothing if it wasn’t done if someone else effed it up!
If you forget to lock it it still comes apart the same. Reason being you can shift the Xfer by fingers when actuator is removed. Then you can leave the actuator unbolted but plug it in and select low or use center diff switch to set actuator to locked.
Then bolt it back together.
Done
With the car on neutral (auto trans), drop the t-case/trans subframe half an inch. It will help. Have the trans on neutral because dropping the trans assembly downward will pull on the shift-lever cable and thats not good.
With the actuator removed, leave the little gear in there. With a glov e, you are able to turn it by hand to engage/disengage the cdl. Clock wise is locked, and CCW is unlock. You should see the indicator light turn on in your cluster.
Basically, you want to install the actuator in the same position the t-case is in. You can hook-up the actuator and get it to turn in the air before installing it. The FSM recommends installing it in the "locked" position. So the t-case has to be locked, and the actuator also has to be in the locked position. Before bolting the actuator on, just get it to turn mid-air in the locked position. Then install it.
With the actuator removed, leave the little gear in there. With a glov e, you are able to turn it by hand to engage/disengage the cdl. Clock wise is locked, and CCW is unlock. You should see the indicator light turn on in your cluster.
Basically, you want to install the actuator in the same position the t-case is in. You can hook-up the actuator and get it to turn in the air before installing it. The FSM recommends installing it in the "locked" position. So the t-case has to be locked, and the actuator also has to be in the locked position. Before bolting the actuator on, just get it to turn mid-air in the locked position. Then install it.
CharlieS
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #5
Key nuggets for my limited brain capacity:
Thank you very much!
This post says CCW is lock instead of unlock, so glad I got clarification here.
forum.ih8mud.com
- If you forget to lock it it still comes apart the same.
- You can shift the Xfer by fingers when actuator is removed.
Clock wise is locked, and CCW is unlock.- CCW is locked
- You want to install the actuator in the same position the t-case is in.
- You can hook-up the actuator and get it to turn in the air before installing it.
- The FSM recommends installing it in the "locked" position.
- The t-case has to be locked, and the actuator also has to be in the locked position.
- Before bolting the actuator on, just get it to turn mid-air in the locked position.
Thank you very much!
This post says CCW is lock instead of unlock, so glad I got clarification here.
CDL Actuator, Which Way is Locked?
The transfer case is out of the vehicle. With the actuator removed, I can provide 12v and turn the motor one way, reverse polarity, and turn it back the other way. The manual states: HINT: At the time of reassembly, please refer to the following items. 1. Set the motor actuator in differential...
forum.ih8mud.com
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I assure you it is clockwise when looking at it from the top And i mean turning the little removable gear by hand. Maybe they meant the output shaft of the actuator. You can also check it in the t-case plug using a multimeter. The switch will be "Closed" in order to turn on the cluster indicator.Key nuggets for my limited brain capacity:
- If you forget to lock it it still comes apart the same.
- You can shift the Xfer by fingers when actuator is removed.
- Clock wise is locked, and CCW is unlock.
- You want to install the actuator in the same position the t-case is in.
- You can hook-up the actuator and get it to turn in the air before installing it.
- The FSM recommends installing it in the "locked" position.
- The t-case has to be locked, and the actuator also has to be in the locked position.
- Before bolting the actuator on, just get it to turn mid-air in the locked position.
Thank you very much!
This post says CCW is lock instead of unlock, so glad I got clarification here.
CDL Actuator, Which Way is Locked?
The transfer case is out of the vehicle. With the actuator removed, I can provide 12v and turn the motor one way, reverse polarity, and turn it back the other way. The manual states: HINT: At the time of reassembly, please refer to the following items. 1. Set the motor actuator in differential...
I have everything to rebuild the CDL except the time to add it to my web site.
If you would like a kit pm me and we can work things out.
If you would like a kit pm me and we can work things out.
Turning the removable gear CCW moves the front shift fork rearward. This allows the clutch sleeve to engage the front drive gear, locking the front and rear outputs. Turning the gear clockwise does the opposite.
Did this Monday night after I installed my CDL out of sync from the shift fork.
Did this Monday night after I installed my CDL out of sync from the shift fork.
CharlieS
GOLD Star
- Thread starter
- #10
Verified CCW locks.
The setup is like a rack and pinion. The removable gear has a small toothed gear on the underside that engages straight teeth on the shaft. Turning the removable gear counter clock wise moves the shaft to the rear (right as seen in the perspective of the photo below), locking the shafts together with the sliding collar.
What that sliding collar connects (locker engaged):
locked:
unlocked:
The setup is like a rack and pinion. The removable gear has a small toothed gear on the underside that engages straight teeth on the shaft. Turning the removable gear counter clock wise moves the shaft to the rear (right as seen in the perspective of the photo below), locking the shafts together with the sliding collar.
What that sliding collar connects (locker engaged):
locked:
unlocked:
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Any tips on breaking the gasket seal on this? I’ve lowered the crossmember, got the 4 bolts loose, but can’t seem to get an angle to pry the actuator housing off the transfer case. Maybe it’s time to pull the t-case for this and order up those sumo reduction gears I’ve been thinking about...
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Also- the top bolt on mine is longer than the other three I removed. I have it all the way loose but not quite enough clearance to get it out. I’m wondering if that is normal or if that bolt was replaced by the PO. I’ll get longer crossmember bolts if needed and lower things more to remove that bolt if needed. Just curious.
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Also- the top bolt on mine is longer than the other three I removed. I have it all the way loose but not quite enough clearance to get it out. I’m wondering if that is normal or if that bolt was replaced by the PO. I’ll get longer crossmember bolts if needed and lower things more to remove that bolt if needed. Just curious.
Correct answer
To make a bit more room to work, remove the cross member bolts completely, and lower the rear of the trans as far as you can without the valve cover leaning on the fire wall.
Put some stands under the cross member before you crawl under it
I was able to get it removed. Just needed a longer block of wood and a little more force. I couldn’t believe how much gravel (yes gravel) I had in this thing. My breather was connected but must have had a break in the line I guess. Haven’t chased that down yet. In looking at the motor windings this thing is toast. You can see a broken copper wire in the picture.
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I saw on YouTube where some Aussie got his re-wound. If anyone has a good source for this in the US please let me know.
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I saw on YouTube where some Aussie got his re-wound. If anyone has a good source for this in the US please let me know.
Man that's cooked!
I had one with fried windings on one circuit, still killed it.
I had one with fried windings on one circuit, still killed it.
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I've rewounded mine. Look at this thread.
When a part is nla and hard to find, you get creative. Mine only had one "open" coil so it was not a full rewind. The issue with this cld engagement system is that it's not smart. It's only relays... They will not stop if it's not engaging, thus keeping the motor always powered on. They should be enganged with the vehicule in motion so that the engagement macanism gets a chance to synchronize.
In need of a CDL Actuator TOYOTA 36410-60050, Getting hard to find !! - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/in-need-of-a-cdl-actuator-toyota-36410-60050-getting-hard-to-find.1312585/page-2
When a part is nla and hard to find, you get creative. Mine only had one "open" coil so it was not a full rewind. The issue with this cld engagement system is that it's not smart. It's only relays... They will not stop if it's not engaging, thus keeping the motor always powered on. They should be enganged with the vehicule in motion so that the engagement macanism gets a chance to synchronize.
In need of a CDL Actuator TOYOTA 36410-60050, Getting hard to find !! - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/in-need-of-a-cdl-actuator-toyota-36410-60050-getting-hard-to-find.1312585/page-2
Saw that thread tonight! You have much more patience than me
Well, patience increases when the only new 80series cdl actuator left for sale is 1000usd+Saw that thread tonight! You have much more patience than me
that's way i had made a blanking plate because i though the job would take days. You could drive it without the actuator with a blanking cover.
