Regearing to 4.88? Nitro and JustDiffs are having a pretty huge sale.....

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I ordered two sets of front and rear that just showed up today. However I have a set of Revolution gears as well that has been waiting to go into Bacon Bits. Should I put the Nitro's instead. I've heard many mix reviews. Anyone here have experience with both and can give any feedback.
 
I ordered two sets of front and rear that just showed up today. However I have a set of Revolution gears as well that has been waiting to go into Bacon Bits. Should I put the Nitro's instead. I've heard many mix reviews. Anyone here have experience with both and can give any feedback.

Most the mixed reviews seem to be with customer service and axles… yet to see much concrete “the gears failed, here’s proof”

Doesn’t mean they are good, but I haven’t seen enough to make me not want to run em
 
My 4.88 gear order placed Monday is "delayed"

Everything else (solid pinion spacers, seals etc..) shipped out fine 🙂

When I ordered mine on Saturday it said they only had 3 left in stock. Not sure when you ordered.
 
I ordered two sets of front and rear that just showed up today. However I have a set of Revolution gears as well that has been waiting to go into Bacon Bits. Should I put the Nitro's instead. I've heard many mix reviews. Anyone here have experience with both and can give any feedback.
I've set up a lot of gear sets for people and have always use Nitro Gears. But I also don't follow factory guide lines as far as preloads go.

A long time ago I was chastised for saying that the preloads on front wheel bearings from the factory were low and resulted in loose bearings after some use.

IMO the same is true with the Diffs. If you follow the factory preloads, that will work great on road, but once you go off road and really require them to preform they can develop problems.

For me, a general rule is after the initial 15 minutes of variable driving on a new set of gears and you can comfortably hold your hand on the pumpkin, your preload is light.

It's the heat generated during that first 15 minutes of break in that fully seats the bearing races and pinion shims. So that pumpkin should be uncomfortably hot to hold onto.

However, after 30 minutes of cooling time and another 15 minutes of varying driving time the pumpkin should only be warn to touch.

Too many people think that after the initial 15 minute drive tome a cool pumpkin indicates a good set up. It actually indicated the opposite AFAIC.
 
I've set up a lot of gear sets for people and have always use Nitro Gears. But I also don't follow factory guide lines as far as preloads go.

A long time ago I was chastised for saying that the preloads on front wheel bearings from the factory were low and resulted in loose bearings after some use.

IMO the same is true with the Diffs. If you follow the factory preloads, that will work great on road, but once you go off road and really require them to preform they can develop problems.

For me, a general rule is after the initial 15 minutes of variable driving on a new set of gears and you can comfortably hold your hand on the pumpkin, your preload is light.

It's the heat generated during that first 15 minutes of break in that fully seats the bearing races and pinion shims. So that pumpkin should be uncomfortably hot to hold onto.

However, after 30 minutes of cooling time and another 15 minutes of varying driving time the pumpkin should only be warn to touch.

Too many people think that after the initial 15 minute drive tome a cool pumpkin indicates a good set up. It actually indicated the opposite AFAIC.
How does that logic align with the fact that REM polished gears need no break-in or heat cycling.

General use temps on a diff can get over 150 degrees..break-in around 270

That said this is the first time I have EVER heard anyone specifically reference an initial heat cycle as an indication of a good or bad setup.
 
How does that logic align with the fact that REM polished gears need no break-in or heat cycling.

General use temps on a diff can get over 150 degrees..break-in around 270

That said this is the first time I have EVER heard anyone specifically reference an initial heat cycle as an indication of a good or bad setup.
I think you missed my reference to seating the races and shims. I didn’t state that it was for the gears. It’s actually intended for providing a stable environment for the gears to operate in.

I’m fully aware that my opinions on multiple subjects are controversial since they are not easily verifiable by googling.

So everyone can take my opinions for what they are, my opinions.
 
Gears arrived today!
 
I think you missed my reference to seating the races and shims. I didn’t state that it was for the gears. It’s actually intended for providing a stable environment for the gears to operate in.

I’m fully aware that my opinions on multiple subjects are controversial since they are not easily verifiable by googling.

So everyone can take my opinions for what they are, my opinions.

On the contrary, I referenced the R&P specifically as that is what produces the vast majority of heat in a diff, all of which to point out the fallacy in relying on the “touch” of a diff to determine proper setup. That’s ignoring the other variables not to mention pure subjectivity. If that works for you then cool.

I can’t speak to your controversies or google, everyone is entitled to their opinion. You would certainly be confused by REM gears with that method as well as other factors.
 
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On the contrary, I referenced the R&P specifically as that is what produces the vast majority of heat in a diff, all of which to point out the fallacy in relying on the “touch” of a diff to determine proper setup. That’s ignoring the other variables not to mention pure subjectivity. If that works for you then cool.

I can’t speak to your controversies or google, everyone is entitled to their opinion. You would certainly be confused by REM gears with that method as well as other factors.
Touching the differential after the first 15 minute break in period and evaluating the heat generated is a common practice to get a sense of how things are going.

It’s expected to be hot and if it’s not then maybe the setup might not be the best.

And we’re talking about gear sets in 80 series Land Cruisers.
 
Purchased on the 29th and just received an email stating a delay with the order....
 
Hmmm well no shipping confirmation in my spam, but like I said my card was charged (actually overcharged $396 vs $360) but I will just sit tight and see what happens. I wanted 5.29’s but couldn’t pass up the deal so if it doesn’t work out I won’t be too upset. Lol
I have a set of NIB 5.29s if you're interested. I paid full-pop like 2 years ago but I have 4.88s in my diffs now.
 
Touching the differential after the first 15 minute break in period and evaluating the heat generated is a common practice to get a sense of how things are going.

It’s expected to be hot and if it’s not then maybe the setup might not be the best.

And we’re talking about gear sets in 80 series Land Cruisers.

I agree, I use a Thermo-gun and monitor across three heat cycles. Even REM gears that dont require heat cycling I still monitor to make sure things are good.
 
I didn't get any shipping or delay notification, but I can see the order went through. They emailed me confirmation and the link they sent me with the order confirmation brings me to a paid order. Odd.
 
Just checked the sites, and it looks like I missed the boat on the mega sale. ☹️
Looking for 4.88's on my factory locked '94. If anybody in here that scored a set ends up wanting to pass them along I'm in the market!

Edit: looks like Just Differentials is still offering the 4.88 27 spline 9.5" for 141.50. PN: TLC-488-NG

While Nitro's site has jumped up to $281 for the same.

$141 not a bad deal, not quite the fire sale some were reporting earlier in the week tho...
 
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Gears arrived today, now need to find a place to have the gears and Harrops installed.
 
Gears received yesterday. Ordered 11:45AM Saturday.
Rumor has it cruiseroutfitters.com still has them. Not sure if the prices are still the same tho.
 
Just an FYI everyone that has bought gears directly off Nitro's website check your CC. I was looking at my statement tonight and there were four unauthorized charges at out of state locations on the card I used. Not in anyway am I saying Nitro is responsible.
 

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