First things first there is nothing wrong with my Slee pan hard it has been perfect for its several years of use, however I have to do destructive testing on what we are bringing to market. Weighed both and they both landed at right around 11.5 lbs., only three things I notice different between them are different style bushing, fine thread adjustment, and a double jam nut (which I like the idea of).
I unscrewed the new one and buttered the threads with anti-seize (copper), used the panhard bolts as guides to set the length of the new one.
Since I have had several offline discussions about pan-hard bushings thought I would take an up close picture of our new offering.
Buttered the bolt shanks with anti-seize and torqued them to spec, after I was done I measured and it landed within a 32nd left to right. Side note for the next project is to clean up a few wires under the hood, if you look below the oil pan you can see where the knock sensor wire was routed...
Before removing the arms I marked line on both of them level with the ground. When the new radius arm bushings came in we chucked the bag into the freezer (they sat in there for about 4 days). Removed the old bushings cleaned the bores with brake clean and a scotch brite then dried it and pressed in the new cold bushings like butter (with a very thin layer of wheel bearing grease).
Installed new Toyota radius arm bushings aligned them with the previously marked horizontal lines to angle the dimples parallel to the ground at static ride height.
After the new bushings where set, used a flap disk (60 grit) to even up my original cut where the tie-rod swings. Its close but doesn’t seem to touch yet, just wanted some more room for the new bushings to deflect.
100 MM flange head M16X2.0 (slightly coarse compared to the factory 1.5 pitch), hardware that came with caster correction, and the original factory bolt…
I am playing around with the 100 mm bolt I found on Mcmaster Car, trying it first because it’s a flange head bolt and serrated flange head nut, but also because it gives me a bit more shank length in shear.
Chucked up the bolts in the lathe and took 3 threads off (should have taken 4), buttered the shank in anti-seize. These coarse thread bolts are capable of 230 lbs. dry; I put in a drop of blue Loctite and set them at 127 lbs. for now.
Unbolted the steering box flipped it out sideways , then used a 60 grit flapdisc (die grinder) on the pan hard mount, hit it with a red scotch brite then some brake clean, and finally dried it with compressed air.
Then Justin laid the heat to it!
Wire wheeled it all again then shot it with zinc self-etching primer…
Hit it with two coats, however right as the mist was settling on the second coat I started putting the box back in probably nicked it with my fingers a few times, but got the steering box bolts cleaned and twisted up to 105 lbs. with a drop of blue Loctite.
I unscrewed the new one and buttered the threads with anti-seize (copper), used the panhard bolts as guides to set the length of the new one.
Since I have had several offline discussions about pan-hard bushings thought I would take an up close picture of our new offering.
Buttered the bolt shanks with anti-seize and torqued them to spec, after I was done I measured and it landed within a 32nd left to right. Side note for the next project is to clean up a few wires under the hood, if you look below the oil pan you can see where the knock sensor wire was routed...
Before removing the arms I marked line on both of them level with the ground. When the new radius arm bushings came in we chucked the bag into the freezer (they sat in there for about 4 days). Removed the old bushings cleaned the bores with brake clean and a scotch brite then dried it and pressed in the new cold bushings like butter (with a very thin layer of wheel bearing grease).
Installed new Toyota radius arm bushings aligned them with the previously marked horizontal lines to angle the dimples parallel to the ground at static ride height.
After the new bushings where set, used a flap disk (60 grit) to even up my original cut where the tie-rod swings. Its close but doesn’t seem to touch yet, just wanted some more room for the new bushings to deflect.
100 MM flange head M16X2.0 (slightly coarse compared to the factory 1.5 pitch), hardware that came with caster correction, and the original factory bolt…
I am playing around with the 100 mm bolt I found on Mcmaster Car, trying it first because it’s a flange head bolt and serrated flange head nut, but also because it gives me a bit more shank length in shear.
Chucked up the bolts in the lathe and took 3 threads off (should have taken 4), buttered the shank in anti-seize. These coarse thread bolts are capable of 230 lbs. dry; I put in a drop of blue Loctite and set them at 127 lbs. for now.
Unbolted the steering box flipped it out sideways , then used a 60 grit flapdisc (die grinder) on the pan hard mount, hit it with a red scotch brite then some brake clean, and finally dried it with compressed air.
Then Justin laid the heat to it!
Wire wheeled it all again then shot it with zinc self-etching primer…
Hit it with two coats, however right as the mist was settling on the second coat I started putting the box back in probably nicked it with my fingers a few times, but got the steering box bolts cleaned and twisted up to 105 lbs. with a drop of blue Loctite.
Last edited:
