Builds Red Line Landcruisers " The Tale of Two 80's" Build (1 Viewer)

[RLMS]

Next is letting the truck down, installing/ adjusting the front panhard , installing/ bleeding brakes and extending diff breathers. (Diff breather extended tube is now coming with all kits) and caster correction. On Jay's 80 we are going to use slee cater plates. We will have 2.2 degrees of total positive caster from what we have measured up at ride height. We could go with a 1* offset trunion to get us in the 3 range but, this truck will have ram assist, so he is opting out of the offset trunion lingo! We will also be figuring out all of the front bump spacer for every one.

Justin

 

[RLMS]

I have done the same suspension kit on my 80. However we decided to go different routes for the rear upper and lower control arms. I'm sure we will have a nice discussion on what is best/ who likes what and why….on the rear arm set up!

 

[RLMS]

So here she sits. No extra weight at all minus app. 200lbs of parts in the rear. Sitting with 1" body lift, 35's factory wheels. Measuring from the bottom of the wheel to bottom of flare!!!

 

[OkiGoose]

Maybe it's just me, that seems like a LOT of lift. My 35s are close to rubbing and I'm looking to replace the unknown suspension. This seems like a lot more lift than I was thinking.

Meanwhile it looks awesome, the kid in me wants the lift, and who can say no to 37s.

 

[OkiGoose]

Just noticed the 1" BL. Was there a specific reason you are running that or was it already installed and just left on? I'm kind of leery of BL, mainly because I don't like frame gap. I guess aesthetics do play a part.

 

[RLMS]

The body lift was already on Jay's when he bought it. I think he might update it. We both are running a body lift for the 37's. He is going to run the generals down for a bit, then update to 37's!

Remember he has no bumper yet, winch…ETC.. so as of now it is a tad high from actual end result ride height!

 

[RLMS]

He also swapped out his front 97 axle for a non abs front axle. swapping outers is going to happen soon with the front range offroad brake upgrade.

 

[OkiGoose]

All the work looks really good. Thanks for the excellent write up. I wonder how the slinky cools would hold up to the weight of the diesel RHD 80 series...


Looks like it's time to upgrade and find out.

 

[Boing]

I don't name my vehicles, although I do feel an attachment, I am told it makes it more “rela-table”. To complete our attempt at low brow humor Justin’s 80 will be named “Charles in charge” and mine will be “Dickens”…

Alright now for just a smidge of tech…

My 80 has had terrible brakes (common story I know) since we picked it up, the booster would leak (hiss) in the cab with just a smidge of lateral pressure on the pedal. Also since I have had the truck the ABS didn’t work at all, I could have figured out what the problem was but decided I wanted a much more simplistic brake setup.

With a 91 FJ80 in the yard I cannibalized the non-ABS master cylinder lines, picked up a new master non-ABS cylinder and booster. (We filmed a short video of how to adjust the booster to the master cylinder, which we will put out shortly; as we get asked about it all the time.)





Then removed the LSPV in the back, used an elbow from a mini truck to connect the hard lines. The return line I blew out with compressed air to clear it of brake fluid, in the future it will be used to get air to the rear ARB.





Picked up a set of reman-calipers front and rear as the originals had almost 280K on them and the boots are torn in multiple places. The rotors I will be using are Brembo OE replacement s, the fronts have already gone through one set of pads so I had them turned rears are new in box.







Since I am planning on adding diff armor and hydraulic assist I dropped the axle to full bump (have added .5” worth of spacer to the bump stop), the previous owner welded on the tabs to correct caster. Since then I have swapped the axle with an older one out of an FJ80 and added caster plates. You can see how angled the coil bucket is to the bump stop.

.5" Bump stop spacers as well as good frame to drag link clearance on the passenger side...




You can visualize how low the panhard gets in relation to where the diff armor needs to live.





Can see the chassis side panhard mount infront of the axle housing, you can start to imagine the ram sitting on the front of the axle but behind the pandhard mount.







Shooting over the FJ80 rotor, you can see the void where the ram could live…





Here is the current state with Slee caster plates (2.2* of actual caster)

 

[1997GREENTT]

More pictures!

View attachment 1398974

View attachment 1398975

View attachment 1398977

Are those 70 series rear bump stops?

 

[AutoCraft Aus]

Or left front 80, or many other toyota variants.

Difference on some is bolt hole spacings.

Looks factory for us, as we are only allowed to change so much travel from original bump stop in ride height/total travel

 

[Boing]

Pulled the old hubs off the old front axle, pulled the hubs seals, dumped out the bearings, and then drove out the races. Clamped the hubs down in a vice and pulled the hubs studs, then chucked them into the blast cabinet and sent them to be machined for 7/16-20 1.5” long (ARP 753-1500). The wheel mate surface OD is being turned down for the ID of the large GX-470 rotors (but that will be for later).





Next project was to go through the steering, the old pump had been run dry numerous times before due to a slow leak. Picked up a pump and reservoir and then decided to fab a bracket that would bolt onto the motor.

Bracket uses 1/8” plate for the mount on the accessory bracket, 3/16” for the vertical transition, and 1/4” for the piece that grabs the mount.




Final mockup for the bracket and dimensions for the feed line…




Feed line and bracket mocked up...







Painted bracket and finalized the following: feed line, hardware, and relief in bracket for return line loop.

 

[GW Nugget]

Next project was to go through the steering, the old pump had been run dry numerous times before due to a slow leak. Picked up a pump and reservoir and then decided to fab a bracket that would bolt onto the motor.

Bracket uses 1/8” plate for the mount on the accessory bracket, 3/16” for the vertical transition, and 1/4” for the piece that grabs the mount.




Final mockup for the bracket and dimensions for the feed line…




Painted bracket and finalized the following: feed line, hardware, and relief in bracket for return line loop.

O yeah, I like this. No more power steering wine & lots of fluid.

 

[Boing]

Black high pressure line is 1 wire -6 with crimp on 45* ends, the Eaton blue hose is -8 from the box and return to the res, they have all been angled to try and maintain maximum distance from the rams horn… Pump is fed with -10…




Looking in from the factory bumper, it may have to move a little once we start working in a winch…




Cooler has a full flow 180 which is direct from the box, then a 30* to send it back to the reservoir. Ran the return lines bonded together and put on larger hose to cover chafe points…Took 3 quarts of AC-Delco power steering fluid (P/N 89021182) without the ram.




We teamed up with Red Neck Ram for both of our steering boxes, we sent in boxes that needed rebuilding and wanted them drilled and tapped for hydro assist, Justin’s box has the fitting on top, mine has it in front of the piston. The turn around on the boxes was quick!




So the motor has been down on power and as of late the idle quality has started to suffer, so yanked off the air cleaner, to find that the throttle body has been drooling everywhere. Right injector spray cone looked awful “drooly “and the injector cone on the left was weakly pulsing. Pulled the entire throttle body cleaned the intake manifold then ordered up a rebuild kit and some new injectors since these are clearly done.

In looking around the pressure and return to the throttle body I found there was no fuel filter… So my 1989, with goodness knows how many miles on them, had been just pushing grit on through. Scooped up a Wix metal filter with 3/8 ends on it.

Pulled the throttle body apart on the fab table, o-rings that seal the injectors were so loose that the injectors just dumped out of the pod. Pulled the fuel pressure regulator and threw it and the injector pod in the sonic cleaner, bead blasted the base of the throttle body. Wound up bead blasting the injector pod as the gasket was being stubborn even after the sonic cleaning. Threw in the new injectors (61lbs/hr) new o-rings (with just a little bearing grease), reassembled the rest of the throttle body and sensors. Digging through some left overs I found a TBI spacer from several years ago, installed it with its gaskets and hardware.




Pulled the pressure and return lines out, cut them to size with a die grinder then used our hydraulic flaring tool to put barbs on the 3/8 hard lines. The pressure line had to be cut back a bit more as the hardline line was up against the firewall. Installed fresh o-rings on the hard lines inverted flair, and installed a pressure tester tap. TBI’s are sensitive to fuel pressure, they loose the midrange if they are running out of volume.






Using the 80’s pump and lines to one side of the new filter, used green shield 3/8” hose to make a 90* sweep into the hardline… (Pic just shows the back of the filter)




Aligned the old pan hard so we would have a measurement to list for trucks without a front bumper (and possible a lighter engine.) It hadn’t been done since the new lift was installed, it was out .5”. Will be replacing my barely used panhards with the new ones we are importing. Snapped the side shots after aligning the front, I have been pressure washing the belly of this truck (about 6 times thus far) as it has had several leaks that painted the entire undercarriage.
Quick side note after driving the truck is that the early brakes are far worse than the late style brakes were…






Intake went fairly easy (we joked I should have bought a lottery ticket), I got it to what you see in the picture in less than one day (not normal for me).

Spectre aluminum intake hood, to a silicone 45* reducer 4-3.5”, late model 80 air box, had to trim the tin around the mouth to make a suitable clamping surface. Need to get some clamps this week…



Added 3/21

Complete with clamps!

 

[AutoCraft Aus]

**Cough Cough ** weld the panhard rod bracket **Cough Cough **

And fully weld the pipe brace too, as it will crack from the ends of the 2 welds where it flexes otherwise

 

[Alic]

Very cool thread! Want to be continued!

 

[Boing]

**Cough Cough ** weld the panhard rod bracket **Cough Cough **

And fully weld the pipe brace too, as it will crack from the ends of the 2 welds where it flexes otherwise

Darren did you burn around the inside of the panhard mount to frame also?

 

[AutoCraft Aus]

Darren did you burn around the inside of the panhard mount to frame also?

On the later aug 92 on ones dont need to normally, but for the steering box on RHD you do, due to the chassis cracking around that area. The later ones are double boxed inside the chassis.

We plate the outside on the earlier ones and the inside.

Once we weld the broken bits, we normally do a plate and then a 3/4 flat bar between the holes on adge, over the top of the panhard mount and down between the back holes, triangulating the set up to stop the flex.

 

[Boing]

On the later aug 92 on ones dont need to normally, but for the steering box on RHD you do, due to the chassis cracking around that area. The later ones are double boxed inside the chassis.

We plate the outside on the earlier ones and the inside.

Once we weld the broken bits, we normally do a plate and then a 3/4 flat bar between the holes on adge, over the top of the panhard mount and down between the back holes, triangulating the set up to stop the flex.

I'll weld up the pan hard mount and cross tube (thanks for catching that Darren). I am still new to 80 specifics, I love that you guys have pushed them hard enough to find this stuff! I plan to add hydraulic assist in an attempt to lessen the load on everything above the knuckles. Even though I am going to add hydro assist I wonnder if it wouldn't still be prudent to plate the frame?

 

[AutoCraft Aus]

If bigger than 33s, for sure, the panhard rod weld if post aug 92 and on RHD plate the chassis and the inner brace if pre 92 on RHD models.

Heres a LHD one I prepared earlier