Recommendations On Engine Oil Weight 80 Series

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Don't know if anyone else has noticed but the 1st 3 weights of oil all top out at 100F. And obviously the thicker or higher weights would be better at the high end or 100F + temps.

But I think what's more critical and what should be watched closer is the low temp end. That's where the oil needs to flow immediately after engine start to insure that your engine components are getting the lubrication they need. IMHO, from my understanding of what I've gleaned from numerous sources - the lighter weight (thinner) oil you can run, the better overall protection your engine will have. I'm assuming a healthy engine to begin with, of course. Quality synthetic oil flows better and more consistently over the total spectrum of temperature ranges that an engine is subjected to. You can justify running as cheap of oil as possible in many ways including frequent change intervals, but in my book, it boils down to the old adage: Pay now or pay later. Just my 2 cent worth ;)


when your latitude in in the 40's sure cold pump-ability is a concern, when your latitude is on the 20's any oil will pump quickly on cold start, thinning at high temperature is more of a concern.
 
I must be getting old. To make it easier for those who are search disabled:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/79305-oil-recommendations-discussion-thread-faq.html


Thanks to Romer for keeping this up to date.

The oil FAQ is great and it is what I used to help me choose my current oil. I have been using Mobil hi-mileage 10W-40 with good results. However, other than a mention in the FAQ, not much has ben said about this oil. All the rage seems to be Mobil 0W-40. I have been meaning to switch to Mobil 0W-40 since it seems that this oil might have better performance on cold start up, where a lot of engine wear occurs.

Is that the only appreciable difference? The 10W-40 advertizes anti-wear additives and seal conditioners. I assume the 0W-40 doesn't have this? Does that matter much, if at all?

I'm comparing the features chart on Mobil's website:
Mobil 1 0W-40 Advanced Full Synthetic Motor Oil

Mobil 1 High Mileage 10W-40 Advanced Full Synthetic Motor Oil

Of course, this is advertising so I am trying to separate hype from reality. My engine seems to run great on the 10W-40 but I wouldn't mind the extra protection at start up as long as I am not losing anything significant from switching.

There hasn't been much said about the 10W-40 hi mileage from Mobil, other than what is already in the FAQ. Does this mean that the 0W-40 trumps all other brands of Mobil synthetic for our trucks?
:cheers:
 
I just went thru my rig and put Royal Purple in everything... engine, trans and diffs. I do not know if it will help or hurt but I was told by a mechanic that I trust that in his opinion it would help. He does not sell it, just uses it in all of his stuff and if someone asks for it he will use it. I just got the rig a little bit ago and am still working on issues but I hope that it will last me a long time.
 
The supercharged 97 gets rotella synthetic 15W40 and the 93 gets chevron delo. 15W40.
 
The oil FAQ is great and it is what I used to help me choose my current oil. I have been using Mobil hi-mileage 10W-40 with good results. However, other than a mention in the FAQ, not much has ben said about this oil. All the rage seems to be Mobil 0W-40. I have been meaning to switch to Mobil 0W-40 since it seems that this oil might have better performance on cold start up, where a lot of engine wear occurs.

I'd be happy to update if someone would compile and put it in english for me :D
 
10w-30 dino (Toyota-Bottled by Exxon/Mobil) works for me :)

fzj80oilstock.JPG


Blackstone actually recommends that I run 12k intervals on this oil, so I don't see the need for Synthetic :cool:

blackstoneFZJ80at250k.jpg


I'm currently at 264,xxx on the OD (actually much higher due to tire size) with zero issues (other than a seeping pump seal) making routine trips from NYC to Orlando and back every few weeks :grinpimp:

Anything off the shelf will work fine on these motors, but I suggest buying one brand and sticking with it as many different companies use additives that may not be compatible and cause sludge :doh:
 
Blending different weights?

Living in Alaska and prepping to move back to america, I am giving consideration to mixing 3 quarts of 10-40 Mobil 1 high mileage with 0-40 Mobil 1. My thinking thus far is that since Mobil states their oils are compatible regardless of weight, I would gain the benefits of the seal conditioners as well as the pros of thin oil for cold starts. I have a glued on 110v oil pan heater patch, but no real faith that it is going to help much and may not always have access to an outlet. Pulling a small trailer through the Yukon, I will want easy starts and good protection for 4k miles of normal operating temps.

Toughts?
:beer:
 
I just changed my oil last week with that Shell Rotella T 15W40 and no problems of course. Back where my rear mail seal leaks onto the metal area it actually doesn't as much with the thicker oil.. or I am imagining things :meh:

I was running 5w30 before.
 
Apparently my cruiser loves mobil 1 10w40 high mileage. I'm ecstatic to hear my engine is in such good shape. I've stopped all my oil leaks now and hopefully wont have to add any oil in between my next oil change.

lcoil.jpg
 
I'd be happy to update if someone would compile and put it in english for me :D

I'm game. I just ordered my Blackstone analysis kit to add to the other data points.
 
New here... been reading a LOT, probably more than I wanted to. Not sure if this link was mentioned, but I found it pretty clear and easy to make a choice for myself after reviewing it. Motor Oil Viscosity Grades Explained in Layman's Terms the bottom line is that true synthetic oil will not decompose as regular oil would with time between the oil changes, thus offering a better protection trough its life span.
I think Toyota spends a great deal of time and money to do their research before posting oil grade recommendations.... I'd personally try to stick to recommendation which is made by Toyota's engineers. Though with time passing by, perhaps now there are "better" newer alternatives out there which they may simply not care to recommend yet?
 
A a chife chamist of oil and wax company I allwayes like to read treds like this remaids me of a treds of virgins talking about sex A lot of enthusiasm and no experience

The real answer is that there is no single answer and it all depends on a large number of variables

Sometimes there is no escape from trial and error

And sometimes a specific vehicle has more than one optimal oil type given the seasons or the transition between a very cold climate eg Alaska winter and a very hot Mohab desert climate in the summer

And one important tip I have to contribute to do not mix the oils of different companies (for example, what is cheap and on sale in Walmart)

It's best to stick with one brand
 
A Buddy of mine Billy Mays ran his 100+ Cruisers on Amsoil without a failure ever.
I'm running Mobil 1 because I put it in all my Toyota's (4 of them currently) and can get it easily and cheaply at Costco.
It is likely the same reason I will be switching to from Toyota Coolant to Green Old School.
Marketing is powerful; and a fool and his money can be quickly parted.
 

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