Recommendations On Engine Oil Weight 80 Series (5 Viewers)

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2000 miles ago I switched from using the 15w40 Delo to 5W30 full synth Lubro Moly. Not so sure I like what I feel. When cold it transmits some vibration that I did not notice with the Delo. You would think it would be the other way around. I have used many dif synthetics over the last 20 years and usually see a smoother idle, less noise, etc. This has been with lots of dif vehicles however not my 95LC. The weather has changed from being very hot and humid to a low last night of 57 so that may or may not come into play. Prolly change back to Delo when time to change oil.
 
Another Rotella T 15w40 user here.
 
I use Rotella T 15W-40 in everything I own; 1997 Land Cruiser, 2002 Tacoma, 2011 Yamaha FZ8, and my lawn mower. The new Yamaha might surprise you, but Rotella T and T6 (not the T5) are JASO MA rated.
I love Delo 400 15W-40 as well, however it doesn't meet the JASO standard so it's a no go on the Yamaha and I like the one oil in everything.
 
Well.... I use Schaeffers 9000, a full synthetic 5w40 in everything I own!! Even the blender.
 
I run Mobil 1 High Mileage 10W-30 in the 80 and Rotella T6 5W-40 in the WRX....
 
I use the shell rotella 15w40 on everything i have. my old cruiser, my new cruiser. my v12 mercedes, my little acura integra. As a guinie pig of the 15w40 (especially for the midwest), i can say that i have never had any problems, But everytime i go to the oil change shop they try to convince me to use something else, or synthetic or whatever new **** theyre pushing for that day. one time the manager of the shop came and said 'youre going to ruin your motor using this heavy oil. its for semi trucks!'. personal preference for me because its all i know. my father worked at the oil fields in iran and in texas and everywhere hes worked, the vehicles used 15w40. whether it was a rambler, or fj40, or international truck.

The only reason my mom's new lexus isnt on the rotella is because she prepaid in advance and thinks whatever the dealer sells her is best. (she even bought lifetime leather protectant to prevent stains and wear :rolleyes::rolleyes:).

This is almost the exact same thing Jiffy told me after I have been using Shell 15w40 for the past two years without issues. They said that using such thick oil would ruin my oil pump. So...I switched to 15w40 Penz and now my rig idles lower on the dummy gauge and rough...I'm switching back to the Shell 15w40. I also think a lot of it depends on what you've been running, mileage, the particular engine, etc...lots of factors on this and lots of posts on what's better. For my engine, it seems to prefer the heavier stuff even though it only has 136k miles.
 
... one time the manager of the shop came and said 'youre going to ruin your motor using this heavy oil. ...

This is almost the exact same thing Jiffy told me after I have been using Shell 15w40 for the past two years without issues. They said that using such thick oil would ruin my oil pump. ...

They are both full of you know what. Those oils are recammended by Toyota for the 1FZ and will cause zero damage.

The "for everyone but the USA" viscosity chart:

Oil Viscosity-
1FZFE Engine
20w50 oil -7 deg to 38+C 19F to 100F
15w40 oil -10 deg to 38+C 14F to 100F
10w30 oil -18 deg to 38+C 0F to 100F
5w30 oil -30 deg to 8C -22F to 46F
80 series oil viscosity.webp
 
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Oil Viscosity-1FZFE Engine

20w50 oil -7 deg to 38+C 19F to 100F
15w40 oil -10 deg to 38+C 14F to 100F
10w30 oil -18 deg to 38+C 0F to 100F
5w30 oil -30 deg to 8C -22F to 46F

Don't know if anyone else has noticed but the 1st 3 weights of oil all top out at 100F. And obviously the thicker or higher weights would be better at the high end or 100F + temps.

But I think what's more critical and what should be watched closer is the low temp end. That's where the oil needs to flow immediately after engine start to insure that your engine components are getting the lubrication they need. IMHO, from my understanding of what I've gleaned from numerous sources - the lighter weight (thinner) oil you can run, the better overall protection your engine will have. I'm assuming a healthy engine to begin with, of course. Quality synthetic oil flows better and more consistently over the total spectrum of temperature ranges that an engine is subjected to. You can justify running as cheap of oil as possible in many ways including frequent change intervals, but in my book, it boils down to the old adage: Pay now or pay later. Just my 2 cent worth ;)
 
IMHO, from my understanding of what I've gleaned from numerous sources - the lighter weight (thinner) oil you can run, the better overall protection your engine will have.

That is true for (very) cold starts for the first few minutes (until the engine warms up). It is not true for the rest of the 99.9999% of your driving.


You can justify running as cheap of oil as possible in many ways including frequent change intervals, but in my book, it boils down to the old adage: Pay now or pay later. Just my 2 cent worth ;) [/SIZE][/FONT]

Is synthetic better? Absolutely, and when you can get synthetic (or a syn blend), use it. Is it worth spending tons of extra cash, or losing sleep over? Naw.

I used to worry about this until I realized that these are tractor engines, not extremely high tolerance race engines that are rebuilt every couple hundred miles. There are Cruisers with over 300k miles that have run nothing but dino oil, and will probably go hundreds of thousands more.

The quality of the oil isn't much of an issue here. Dino or synthetic, either one works. The big advantage to synthetic is it's resistance to breaking down. But if you get dino oil changes every 3k instead of synthetic changes every 5k, are you going to hurt your engine any? Nope, not one bit.

Even running different weights of oil isn't (primarily) due to engine protection. Mr. T recommends 5w-30 in the states, and I haven't heard of any stories of that causing damage to the engine. Most cruisers like XXw-40 better, they seep less oil and the oil pressure gauge is in the nominal range. But that's about it.
 
That is true for (very) cold starts for the first few minutes (until the engine warms up). It is not true for the rest of the 99.9999% of your driving.......
I disagree, respectfully. Good quality synthetic oil, such as Amsoil for example, will protect the high temp driving (your 99.9999%) as well as the startup, especially when the correct weight is used.

....Is synthetic better? Absolutely, and when you can get synthetic (or a syn blend), use it. Is it worth spending tons of extra cash, or losing sleep over? Naw.
I used to worry about this until I realized that these are tractor engines, not extremely high tolerance race engines that are rebuilt every couple hundred miles. There are Cruisers with over 300k miles that have run nothing but dino oil, and will probably go hundreds of thousands more......
Yeah, I'll confess I'm a little OCD on quality engine oil at times. But I'm mellowing with age or neglect or something:rolleyes: that us middle age guys go through. I just feel more comfortable treating my 1FZ as good as I can. Hopefully it'll pay off some day.

.......The quality of the oil isn't much of an issue here. Dino or synthetic, either one works. The big advantage to synthetic is it's resistance to breaking down. But if you get dino oil changes every 3k instead of synthetic changes every 5k, are you going to hurt your engine any? Nope, not one bit.....
Again, I disagree, respectfully. Your typical dino oils don't take long to lose their lubrication qualities with heat and dirt exposure. How long is any body's guess. And everybody has their own comfort zone to how long the change interval should be.

.....Even running different weights of oil isn't (primarily) due to engine protection. Mr. T recommends 5w-30 in the states, and I haven't heard of any stories of that causing damage to the engine. Most cruisers like XXw-40 better, they seep less oil and the oil pressure gauge is in the nominal range. But that's about it.

My oil cap (on valve cover) and owner's manual for my U.S. 1994 say to use 10w-30. I converted it to 10w-30 Amsoil 100% synthetic back in 2000 and that's all that touches the innards of my engine. It had 129K on it then and has 235K + on it now. The seals didn't leak then and it's pretty much solid now. I change the full flow and bypass filters twice a year and the oil about every 35K or 3 years.
 
Again, I disagree, respectfully. Your typical dino oils don't take long to lose their lubrication qualities with heat and dirt exposure. How long is any body's guess. And everybody has their own comfort zone to how long the change interval should be.

Again, I suggest that the proof is in the pudding. When you have engines that have been well used, at 300k, with only dino in them, then how can you suggest that using dino is a problem?

There's lots of examples of this around us. Audiophiles believing they get better quality out of their $300 cables, gamers thinking they play better when their monitor shows 150 FPS instead of 130 (when the human eye only registers around 70), etc. Dino oils have long been established as being fine at 3k miles, there has been some that suggest they can be run much longer than that.

As to "any body's guess," it's not guessing when you get oil reports, and there's been plenty of those if you wish to weed through the data. I don't recall seeing a single one that's said "ZOMG! Change your oil or your engine is going to blow up!" It's also no guess when 300k mile engines still run like a top, despite using nothing but dino.

Nothing wrong with being OCD and using syn, like I said, I use syn when I can get it myself. But I think it's incorrect to believe that syn vs dino is going to make a large difference in the life of the engine. Especially considering all the other things that are far more likely to kill the engine (overheating, PHH, head gasket, EGR, etc).

Change your oil regularly and you'll be just fine running syn or dino, I guarantee it. :cheers:

My oil cap (on valve cover) and owner's manual for my U.S. 1994 say to use 10w-30.

IIRC, the cap on my truck says 5w-30. Now it's possible someone switched it at some point, the recommendation very well could be 10w-30. Either way, it's not a big difference.
 
... one time the manager of the shop came and said 'youre going to ruin your motor using this heavy oil. its for semi trucks!'....

This is almost the exact same thing Jiffy told me after I have been using Shell 15w40 for the past two years without issues. They said that using such thick oil would ruin my oil pump. So...I switched to 15w40 Penz and now my rig idles lower on the dummy gauge and rough...I'm switching back to the Shell 15w40. I also think a lot of it depends on what you've been running, mileage, the particular engine, etc...lots of factors on this and lots of posts on what's better. For my engine, it seems to prefer the heavier stuff even though it only has 136k miles.

They are both full of you know what. Those oils are recammended by Toyota for the 1FZ and will cause zero damage.

The "for everyone but the USA" viscosity chart:

Oil Viscosity-
1FZFE Engine
20w50 oil -7 deg to 38+C 19F to 100F
15w40 oil -10 deg to 38+C 14F to 100F
10w30 oil -18 deg to 38+C 0F to 100F
5w30 oil -30 deg to 8C -22F to 46F

Ive come to the understanding that with the oil shop mechanics (and many other mechanics for that matter), they dont know what theyre talking about when its clear they jumped to the conclusion they have after 3 seconds of thinking (if any at all). Ill only listen to a mechanic that has proven through stories or evidence provided by them, whether its a hypothetical or actual; that then and only then will i take thier advice into consideration after weighing it with my own experience.
This train of thought has worked very well for me so far and i apply it to other areas of my life aswell. I was raised by lawyers and philosophers and if i could say i got anything good out of that, it is the way of weeding through BS to get to information with weight behind it.

long live the rotella 15w40!:bounce:
 
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Ive come to the understanding that with the oil shop mechanics (and many other mechanics for that matter), they dont know what theyre talking about when its clear they jumped to the conclusion they have after 3 seconds of thinking (if any at all).

Well, they go by usage.

15w-40 is typically used in diesel trucks, not gassers. If you saw 100,000 vehicles come in, all getting around 10w-30, and then someone asked you to put in 15w-40, it might raise your eyebrow too.

It's like how they don't always agree with 5k+ oil change intervals. It's been ingrained that 3k is the norm (even when it actually costs them extra money, like in those oil change for life deals).
 
Then please explain the second test in this post: https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-...il-report-should-i-worried-2.html#post6670251

Once again proof that the 1FZ is very easy on oil, it still looks very good after 10,600mi on " typical dino" oil. They don't need nor is there any benefit from running boutique oil.

Again, I suggest that the proof is in the pudding. When you have engines that have been well used, at 300k, with only dino in them, then how can you suggest that using dino is a problem?

There's lots of examples of this around us. Audiophiles believing they get better quality out of their $300 cables, gamers thinking they play better when their monitor shows 150 FPS instead of 130 (when the human eye only registers around 70), etc. Dino oils have long been established as being fine at 3k miles, there has been some that suggest they can be run much longer than that.

As to "any body's guess," it's not guessing when you get oil reports, and there's been plenty of those if you wish to weed through the data. I don't recall seeing a single one that's said "ZOMG! Change your oil or your engine is going to blow up!" It's also no guess when 300k mile engines still run like a top, despite using nothing but dino.

Nothing wrong with being OCD and using syn, like I said, I use syn when I can get it myself. But I think it's incorrect to believe that syn vs dino is going to make a large difference in the life of the engine. Especially considering all the other things that are far more likely to kill the engine (overheating, PHH, head gasket, EGR, etc).

Change your oil regularly and you'll be just fine running syn or dino, I guarantee it. :cheers:



IIRC, the cap on my truck says 5w-30. Now it's possible someone switched it at some point, the recommendation very well could be 10w-30. Either way, it's not a big difference.

Not trying to sell or convince anybody of anything besides that maybe TLC and going the extra mile may save you problems down the road when the stuff hits the fan. Your engine's margin for survival will increase and it may just be the difference in getting to your destination or being broke down on the trail or roadside. For example, I've got 2 major tows that I need or want to do in the next 2 weekends. Tomorrow I'm (dolly) towing my daughter's Camary from John Day to Portland, a 6 hour drive normally with a few mountain passes to negotiate. Then, I turnaround Saturday morning, drive to Redmond and rent a U-Haul trailer to haul her stuff over Govt. Camp back into Portland. My rig needs a radiator and I just haven't had the opportunity to replace it. I'm not real jazzed about the possibilities for failure, but I'm hoping the LC's stoutness and the synthetic oil's superior protection will combine to give success in this adventure. Yeah, it's a gamble, but I like the odds. Last month I flat towed my Mini to Bend and back for a run with my club at Edison OHV & Snow Park and it did well. The trip to Portland is about twice as far so I guess we'll see. I'm kind of using this as a guage to decide if I want to tow the Mini to Brown's Camp the following weekend for Cruisin' The Woods. That's even farther than Portland.

Another example would be, let's say you're wheeling and you punch a hole in the oil pan and it goes unnoticed because you're the last one in line and no one notices the oil trail. You notice the drop in oil pressure and increase on the temp gauge as your engine's life blood is spilling out on the ground. For most dino oils and other synthetics, by the time this gets figured out, the damage has been done. Amsoil has actually tested this kind of a scenerio and the results showed that the Amsoil synthetic protected longer than the other oils tested. Even when the oil bath was interrupted and run dry. I was looking for the article, but can't find it. Not your everyday situation, but nice to know that you have a larger margin for error. Most will laugh and brush it off as a sales gimmick or major overkill. But, I'm talking about "film strength". Here's an informative article. It's dated 1999, but still has some good info:
More Than You Ever Wanted to Know About Motor Oil
 
... Another example would be, let's say you're wheeling and you punch a hole in the oil pan and it goes unnoticed because you're the last one in line and no one notices the oil trail. You notice the drop in oil pressure and increase on the temp gauge as your engine's life blood is spilling out on the ground. For most dino oils and other synthetics, by the time this gets figured out, the damage has been done. Amsoil has actually tested this kind of a scenerio and the results showed that the Amsoil synthetic protected longer than the other oils tested. Even when the oil bath was interrupted and run dry. I was looking for the article, but can't find it. ...


Most laugh it off, because they know it BS. That may work on an oil bath/splash lube system, maybe, but I don't see how? The 1FZ is pressure lubed, the pressure pushes a film of oil between the bearings, holding them apart. When the pressure is gone, the bearing touches the rotating shaft causing damage.

Amsoil says lots of things, many exaggerated or outright BS. Lots of things that they said in the past are gone, because they have been called on it. Lots of their stuff is done by "independent labs" paid by Amsoil. It's easy to pay/instruct a lab to come to the conclusion that you want. Do you also believe all of the BS spued by Royal Purple, Slick 50, Synoil, etc?:rolleyes:

Amsoil is good oil, but has been proven many times by user testing to be just typical oil, no better than any other quality oil. There are plenty of user tests out there, virgin and used, it is nothing special. Look up the virgin analysis, it is just "typical oil" there is no magic in it.:rolleyes:
 
I used to use Mobil 1 15w50 to reduce oil consumption. Unfortunately, my local Walmart stopped selling that weight so I went back to using Mobil 1 10w40 high mileage.
 
Does anyone read the FAQ anymore? Ravantai and I spent a lot of time writing it to explain the myths that are being batted around in this thread.
 
cary....unfortunatly, no, no one reads the FAQ anymore. Or at least the majority don't. Nor do they bother searching. Most would find the information they seek there. It is a new generation here on Mud.
 

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